Learn how to grow a lemon tree at home and you can enjoy a juicy and fragrant slice of homegrown lemon in your gin and tonic, or other drink of choice. A fresh lemon picked straight off the tree will surpass those from a supermarket when it comes to any cooking, baking, teas, or lemonade.

A lemon is one of the best fruit trees to grow as they conjure up hazy summer memories of warm Mediterranean climates, boasting a beautifully perfumed blossom and tasty fruit. Indeed, citrus trees can flower and fruit year-round, so it is regular for them to have delicate white flowers showing while they are also carrying fruit. 

Lemon trees do love sunshine and warmth, there is no hiding that fact. However, it does not mean that it is not possible to grow them in cooler climates. Even though best suited to warmer regions, lemon trees can successfully be grown in colder areas by utilizing pots and indoor growing spaces.

How to grow a lemon tree outdoors 

Lemon trees will grow in tropical and subtropical regions. They are native to regions of southern Asia, Australia and the South Pacific, thriving in high temperatures and full sun to produce fruit. If you are wanting to grow lemon trees outdoors year-round, then you need to be in USDA Zones 9 to 11. 

The perfect climate for growing lemon trees would see temperatures between 77˚F (25˚C) and 86˚F (30˚C). While those temperatures are a far-flung dream for many, if you can provide a constant temperature range of 70˚F (21˚C) during the day and 55˚F (12˚C) at night, that would still keep a lemon tree very happy. 

To produce fruit, they need a long and warm growing season, able to bask in at least six months at a constantly balmy 68˚F (20˚C). With this in mind, they need to be planted in a sunny spot in the garden that gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight a day.

It should come as no surprise that they also do not like the cold. The tree becomes dormant when the temperature gets below 55˚F (12˚C) and they do not cope with frosts. When the thermometer goes below freezing, the fruit is quickly killed and when it gets down past 26˚F (-3˚C), stems and leaves start to die.

Fortunately, lemon trees are more tolerant when it comes to soils. They will tolerate a wide range, their ideal being well-drained and slightly acidic. Loamy soil or sandy loam soil types work great. The key aspect is the drainage, as lemon trees do not like having their roots sitting in wet soil.

Whether growing these fruit trees in pots or in the ground, make sure you plant at the correct depth. Make a hole 1.5 times the root ball width and plant the tree at a depth just marginally higher than it was sitting in the pot you purchased it in. Give the tree a good topping of mulch to help retain moisture and add valuable nutrients to the soil.

How to grow a lemon tree indoors

Even if you don’t have a year-round tropical climate, that doesn't mean you need to forgo any ambitions of growing lemon trees. There are alternative avenues, such as growing indoors – the perfect solution for people living in a cool climate. Dwarfing varieties of lemon trees are ideal for this.

Lemon trees will still need a lot of light. If you can provide close to eight hours of sunlight a day, that is ideal. A conservatory or frost-free porch works great, or, consider placing the tree in front of south or southwest-facing windows. Artificial lighting can even be used for an extra boost. Make sure to keep the plant away from air conditioners or heating ducts. Extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, will cause stress to your indoor tree.

In late spring, when the outdoor temperatures increase after the last frosts have passed, open windows or vents to stop the plant from overheating indoors. You can also take your lemon tree outside and allow it to bask in the sun’s rays. If you do this, slowly acclimatize the plant to the outdoors, as the shock caused by going straight from indoors to full sun risks burning the leaves.

Keep the tree outside and enjoy the Mediterranean garden vibe it brings to your space until the temperatures start to drop below 50˚F (10˚C). That is the cue to bring it back inside for protection over the colder months.

When is the best time to plant a lemon tree?

The best time to plant an outdoor lemon tree is during spring, so the roots will grow in warmer soil. If you live in a warmer climate or are growing your lemon tree indoors, it is possible to plant at any time of the year.

What type of container should you use for a lemon tree?

Lemon trees are one of the best trees to grow in pots, both outdoors and indoors. If you are moving the plant indoors over winter and outside again during summer, growing it in a pot means it's easy to relocate it. The pot can also be placed in the sunniest spot in the garden and moved if required, offering a quick fix if the need arises to bring the tree inside in an unexpected cold spell.

Citrus trees don’t need very large pots; you ultimately need a container a minimum of 20in (50cm) wide. Ruth Hayes, Gardening Editor of Amateur Gardening, advises that the pots shouldn't be too large as the roots will suffocate in too much empty compost.

Use a straight-sided container, as a bowl-like one will trap the roots and make the plant harder to remove when it comes to repotting it, she adds.

When growing fruit in pots, you need good drainage, so make sure your pot has holes to allow excess water to drain away.

Lemon tree care tips

Correct watering is essential to growing happy lemon trees – they are very sensitive and don’t respond well to over-watering. The secret is to water only when the soil is very dry, which you can check by using your fingers to feel down inside the pot. Assessing the weight of the pot is another good way to check – if the pot is very light, then the soil will be very dry. The best advice is to water heavily until it runs from the drainage holes out of the pot.

Any watering regime for lemon trees will change throughout the year; it will be regular throughout the summer (likely at least once or twice a week) and become infrequent in winter months. You want to keep them almost dry in winter if you are in cooler regions – only properly start watering plants again once spring comes around.

Fertilize these plants year-round to keep them happy and producing fruit. This is mainly due to them flowering all year and tending to fruit in the winter months. In spring, they need a fortnightly feed with a specialist citrus food, such as Citrus Focus, available on Amazon. During the summer, this increases to a weekly feed. In fall and winter, it can be reduced to around once a month – a general-purpose liquid fertilizer can be used, although specific winter citrus feeds are also available.

The plants like a humid atmosphere – up to 50% humidity. You can help create this around the trees by misting the plants, damping down the floor if they are in a glasshouse, or standing plants on trays of moist gravel. 

Citrus trees do not require much pruning. Learning how to prune a lemon tree is essential, but it is a simple process and primarily tends to be directed at keeping the tree reshaped and compact. The best time to prune is in spring.

Lemon tree problems and how to solve them

A lot of problems with lemon trees can be attributed to incorrect watering and fertilizing. An example of this is yellow leaves – a common sight that can be a sign of nutrient deficiency or the tree sitting in soggy soil.

Graham Rice, a garden expert, warns that the most common pests are aphids, red spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects. Aphids cause problems feeding on new growth and can cause leaves to distort, and red spider mite is commonly an issue on trees in greenhouses and conservatories.

'You can usually tolerate minor problems without taking action, or you can squash small infestations with your fingers. Localized problems can also be dealt with by dipping cotton buds in insecticide for spot treatment,' he recommends.

'Choose non-persistent organic treatments that contain fatty acids, natural pyrethrum or plant oils. Spray where needed, not the whole plant.'

Where to buy lemon trees

Now you know how to grow a lemon tree, you may want one for your own plot. Our quicklinks will help you get started:

Shop lemon trees in the US:

• Shop lemon trees at Nature Hills
• Shop lemon trees at Amazon
• Shop lemon trees at Burpee

Shop lemon trees in the UK:

• Shop lemon trees at Amazon
• Shop lemon trees at Crocus
• Shop lemon trees at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop lemon trees at Suttons

Getting in the know about houseplant diseases is a must if you're growing your own indoor garden. That way, you'll know how to spot the telltale signs as soon as they appear, meaning you can take action to save your plant babies quickly.

What's more, getting clued up about possible ailments and their causes can help you avoid them happening in the first place – and prevention is often simpler than cure. So, if you want to keep your best indoor plants looking beautiful, this guide will come in handy.

5 houseplant diseases to stay clear of

Keep your indoor garden looking in tip-top health by avoiding these diseases.

1. Mold

Gray mold, otherwise known as Botrytis blight, is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Affecting garden plants as well as those grown indoors, it generally takes hold in humid, cold, airless environments, where spores land on areas of the plants that are already damaged. As the RHS explains, a fuzzy, gray-brown coating will appear. Eventually, it can kill plants. 

The Amateur Gardening experts advise cutting back affected shoots, and keeping plants drier and warmer. You can also improve ventilation to reduce humidity, says the RHS. Dead plant material should be cleared away.

Also, look out for white mold on houseplant soil. Although less of a concern, it does spoil the aesthetics of your indoor plant ideas somewhat and signals that conditions for your plant aren't quite right. 

'This can be caused by too much water and poor drainage, as well as a lack of sunlight,' Jo Lambell, Founder of Beards & Daisies, explains. 'Damp, low-light conditions are the perfect recipe for mold to take hold – so you’ll want to get to the bottom of the issue and address it fast.'

If your soil has white mold growing in it, Jo recommends repotting your plant and placing it in direct sunlight for a little while. You can even add an antifungal to the potting mix when you repot your plant, she adds.

2. Sooty mold

Sooty mold comes hand-in-hand with sap-sucking pests, such as scale insects and aphids. These bugs exude a sticky substance called honeydew, which attracts the fungus that causes the disease, explains the Amateur Gardening experts. 

'It is black and can coat leaves, reducing their ability to photosynthesize. The end result is a weakened plant that struggles to grow.'

Regrettably, there are no fungicides to control the disease, says John, although he does note that smaller patches can be wiped off with lukewarm water and a cloth. The important thing to do is to tackle the pests. An organic insecticide based on fatty acids and vegetable oils can be effective (try Amazon), as can wiping the stems and leaves clean with a mild detergent solution, the Amateur Gardening experts suggest. 

'Once the plant is clean, be vigilant for pest recurrence, as it's easier to deal with a light infestation,' they add.

'When the creatures have been eradicated and the honeydew source ceases, the sooty mold will, eventually, disappear,' says John.

3. Root rot

'Root rot is a common problem for plants which have been overwatered and end up waterlogged,' explains Jo.

'Your plants’ roots, whilst responsible for drinking up as much water as possible to keep your plant happy, also need some breathing space. If your soil becomes waterlogged, then the roots of your plant can no longer perform their job and end up rotting,' Jo explains. Indoor succulents are particularly susceptible.

'You’ll usually notice this pretty quickly, as your plant will smell quite unpleasant,' Jo continues. Your plant may also wilt. 'Unfortunately, once the roots of your plant have suffered root rot, it can be irreversible. This isn’t the case for every plant and does depend on the severity and how much rot has set in.'

If you think your plant still stands a chance, Jo recommends repotting your plant in new soil. As you do so, remove any roots that look rotten, salvaging any healthy ones. Then, take extra precautions not to overwater your houseplant, and with a bit of luck, it will return to its former glory.

4. Rust

Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes affects indoor plants. Although it isn't generally fatal, it does spoil the look of foliage, causing rusty-orange blemishes on the undersides and white patches on the top.

A plant that's particularly susceptible is Oxalis triangularis (although growing it indoors rather than outdoors does reduce the chances of infection). Fuchsias and pelargoniums grown indoors are also at risk.

'Avoid feeds that are high in nitrogen as this promotes soft growth, which is more susceptible to rust,' says Amateur Gardening. Keeping the foliage dry when watering your plants, and providing plenty of airflow around them can also help prevent it.

If you spot rust, clear away and dispose of all the affected leaves and debris from around the plants, says the Amateur Gardening experts. This should eradicate any spores that would otherwise overwinter. 'Next summer, be vigilant and remove affected leaves as soon as you see the telltale pale leaf spots forming.'

You can also spray affected plants with a fungicide, such as Fungus Clear Ultra (available on Amazon), says John.

5. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is commonly seen on a wide range of outdoor plants – from courgettes to clematis. But it can affect indoor plants too, particularly if they've had a short stint outdoors to soak up some summer sunshine (the fungal spores are often airborne).

It generally isn't fatal. However, it spoils the look of plants, appearing as an unsightly, gray-silver coating on foliage and sometimes spreads to stems and flowers, too. 

To treat it, remove the worst of the affected areas. The RHS recommends improving ventilation, and avoiding your plant sitting with wet leaves, particularly in cool temperatures or throughout the night. A broad spectrum fungicide may have incidental control, they add.

What is the worst houseplant disease?

Root rot is one of the worst houseplant diseases, as plants that are affected can be difficult to rescue. Luckily, it's also one of the easiest to avoid if you pay close attention to your watering schedule.

But it's important to remember that diseases aren't the only reason why houseplants die – there are other things to look out for, too. These include giving them the right amount of humidity and light, and repotting them when necessary. At the end of the day, if you give your plants the care and environmental conditions they need, they're most likely to reward you with long-lasting, luscious greenery.

If you've recently bought yourself an orchid, or received one as a gift, knowing the main reasons why they die is super useful. After all, you'll want to keep these colorful bloomers looking their best for years to come – and they will, with the right care.

Orchids have a bit of a reputation for being tricky, but looking after them isn't too difficult if you remember some key points. Get these wrong, and your orchid can start looking a little sorry for itself, and in the worst-case scenarios, it will give up completely.

Why is my orchid dying? 4 common reasons – and how to avoid them

They may be some of the very best indoor plants for their showy display, but there are some important factors to bear in mind to keep orchids in top health. 

1. A poor watering routine

The most common cause for orchids dying is to do with how much, or how little, you water them.

'Orchids are amazing plants because their visible roots can indicate how much moisture they need,' says the National Garden Bureau experts. 'If the plant needs more moisture, the roots will look silvery. Severely dehydrated roots look wrinkled and tan.'

A severe lack of water can happen very easily with plants grown on bark, says John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening. 'In their natural conditions, the atmosphere would be very humid, with water constantly dripping onto the foliage and aerial roots (both are capable of absorbing moisture) and very little water evaporating from the surface,' he says. 'Although they don’t need as much moisture as terrestrial plants, they 
suffer just as much in its absence. 

'The important thing is to improve humidity levels around the foliage and roots,' John continues. 'Aerial roots work slightly differently from terrestrial roots, but the simplest thing to do is to plunge 
the whole arrangement into water, leave it for a couple of hours, and then let it drain. Do this at least once a week, possibly twice, for the remainder of the growing season.

'In between times, mist the leaves and roots at least every day, giving them a good covering of moisture,' he adds. It will be beneficial to do this more than once a day if temperatures are high.

For best results, use collected rainwater or boiled water (left to cool down to room temperature) for misting and watering, says the RHS. The chlorine in fresh tap water can harm these plants.

'The goal is plump roots that are green after watering, returning to a silvery-green color as they dry off,' says the National Garden Bureau. However, be cautious not to overwater these houseplants, either. If you spot dark and mushy roots, your plant is overwatered and beginning to rot, they explain – and root rot is one of those houseplant diseases that can be tricky to recover from. Other telltale signs that you're overwatering your orchid include the flowers falling off, and the leaves turning yellow.

2. Too much or too little light

Good lighting is also important to help these plants thrive. A lack of this isn't always fatal, but it will stop your orchid reblooming and can result in poor growth. Too much, on the other hand, can scorch their leaves.

'Orchids love long periods of indirect light,' says the experts at the National Garden Bureau. The best growth activity occurs when the orchid receives 10-16 hours of this.

A good test to see if the location in question is adequately lit for your plant is to hold your hand up and check the shadow, they continue. 'If the shadow is blurred, you’re good to go. If it is more distinct, the light level is too high.'

3. Orchid pests

It's always worth looking out for pests in your indoor garden. There are a few varieties that can affect orchids and wreak havoc.

Red spider mites can be particularly problematic. 'These microscopic insects suck sap from leaves and cause cells to die,' says John. 'If you look at the foliage through a microscope you should be able to see the mites scurrying around.'

John recommends tackling the pests with BugClear Ultra Gun (available on Amazon), a contact and systemic pesticide. 'Additionally, feed your plant with orchid fertilizer to improve its immunity to attack from these pests and boost its vigor.'

Mealy bugs are another common orchid interloper. They are tiny sap-feeding pests, enveloped in protective sticky white ‘wool’, that colonize leaf joints and debilitate growth, says John. 

Again, you can tackle them with a systemic pesticide spray. 'Unfortunately, a single application rarely eradicates it,' he says. 'I urge you, therefore, to spray fortnightly for a month or two to ensure that it disappears [double check the label of your chosen product first, to check this is safe for your plants].'

4. Over-feeding your orchid

Although fertilizing plants, orchids included, can help them grow stronger and healthier and prevent the leaves from drooping, it's important not to overdo it.

'Too much fertilizer is one of the often-overlooked reasons why your orchid houseplant is dying,' says Anthony Selvaganam, a certified horticulturist and Chief Content Editor of Plantials.

'I see this issue mostly with beginner houseplant owners. They think, by applying fertilizer, they're helping the plant. It's true to an extent, but not when you repeat it week after week.'

Orchids are generally considered to be sensitive to high levels of fertilizers, and too much fertilizer can lead to a variety of problems like root burn, salt build-up, and nutrient imbalance, he explains.

You can buy fertilizers that are specifically suited to orchids (available on Amazon), but if you choose to use normal houseplant fertilizers instead, proceed with extra caution. 'Common houseplant fertilizers contain high levels of nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When too much fertilizer is applied, the excess nutrients can "burn" the orchid's roots, causing them to become damaged or even killed.'

'Fertilizers also contain salts, which can build up in the soil over time and cause problems for the orchid,' Anthony continues. 'Excess salt can cause the soil to become too dry and lead to nutrient deficiencies, which can stunt the growth of the orchid or even kill it.

'To avoid killing your orchid by overfeeding, it is important to use fertilizers carefully and according to the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. In general, it is best to fertilize orchids at a lower rate and more frequently, rather than applying a large amount of fertilizer all at once. This helps to prevent over-fertilization and allows the orchid to take up the nutrients it needs without causing any harm.'

Can you revive a dying orchid?

If your orchid is looking unhappy, check through the above and take any appropriate action – whether this is watering, moving it somewhere with more or less light, or tackling pests.

Sometimes, it's best to repot your orchid to give it a fresh new start. This is the case for root rot, for instance – as you move it into its new container, carefully remove any damaged roots. Once replanted, keep an eye on your orchid and ensure it gets all the right care it needs – with any luck, it will bounce back to its former glory.

Rhubarb is a classic spring and early summer treat and its juicy delicious stems are a common sight in crumbles, cakes and tarts. By studying the old technique of forcing, you can grow rhubarb in a way that offers early and even sweeter stems.

Growing rhubarb itself is very easy and it is a plant that can be harvested for many years. The process of forcing the crown to produce an early harvest of stems is simple and one that I have always found rewarding. 

It requires little tools, can be done on a budget, and is well worth the effort. Those early blanched stems are less fibrous and much more delicate in flavor, certainly less bitter than non-forced rhubarb and requiring less sugar when being cooked.

The vivid bright-pink sticks are also a sight to behold poking out of the ground in the darkness. It can be hard to resist the temptation to keep sticking your head into the pots to check their progress, which can be impressively rapid.

The benefits of forcing rhubarb 

Forcing is a technique that has been used for more than a century to obtain earlier and more tender rhubarb stems. The crown of a dormant rhubarb plant is plunged into darkness and this encourages the production of pale, thin and sweet stalks that are ready for picking very early in the season. Forcing pots are a common sight in a kitchen garden or on allotments through the winter months.

It is the darkness and the warmth that comes from forcing that encourages the plant to grow fast in the search for light. The stalks themselves are paler in color than traditional rhubarb as the lack of sunlight stops the production of chlorophyll. 

The forced stalks can be ready to harvest in early spring, many weeks before any plants left to grow as usual outside. When the plant is forced you must harvest rhubarb carefully by gently twisting and pulling the stem from the crown.

 When to start forcing rhubarb 

Rhubarb is forced in its dormant period in winter and the crown needs exposure to frost before being forced. It is the frost that breaks the plant’s dormancy and stimulates growth. 

It is key to choose a well-established crown that has been growing outside for a minimum of two years to force. The process of forcing rhubarb will exhaust a crown, taking a great deal of energy from the plant, and a younger plant will be severely weakened. It could have its productivity for future years potentially damaged. 

Always remember that any crowns forced should also not be picked in the summer of that same year. It is best to try to plan and differentiate between plants to be forced early and plants to be left for harvesting during the traditional rhubarb season when planning your vegetable planting calendar.

 How to force rhubarb in 8 easy steps

There are different methods of forcing rhubarb, depending on if you want to leave the plant in the ground or move it to a different location to force. 

The simplest, and most commonly seen, method of forcing rhubarb is to cover the crown in situ using a large forcing pot that covers the whole of the crown. Here's how to do it:

1. Choose a healthy well-established crown that was not forced the previous year.
2. Remove any debris and old leaves from the crown.
3. Add a layer of mulch like compost or well-rotted manure to help provide extra nutrients and promote a strong growth of stems.
4. Completely cover the rhubarb crown with a large pot without any holes for light to penetrate.
5. If there are holes, such as those for drainage, cover with thick black tape.
6. Mound fresh compost or manure around the pot – this can increase the heat inside and bring forward the forcing.
7. The stems should be ready to harvest around 7 or 8 weeks later.
8. It’s time to harvest when the pink sticks are 45-50cm long, or touching the top of the pot.

An alternative method of forcing rhubarb involves lifting crowns. This is a traditional method that sees healthy and established crowns lifted and left to sit on the ground for a period of up to 10 days. This exposes them to cold and potentially some frosts. 

The crowns are then planted in compost and placed in a dark and warm environment indoors, such as a shed, garage or cupboard. If you have a greenhouse then place the plant in there and cover to exclude the light. Check the crowns regularly and keep the roots slightly moist.

Bob Flowerdew, fruit and veg expert for Amateur Gardening, advises that crowns can simply be dug and packed in buckets of sand. He does warn that the method of lifting crowns, while simple to look after, does not necessarily allow for plants to be put back outside to grow on for future years. 

'These crowns require no feeding – just careful watering – and afterwards are exhausted, so are best thrown away and then replacements grown,' he adds.

 Types of forcing pots for rhubarb 

Rhubarb forcing pots can come in different materials, however they do need to be large enough to completely cover the crown, deep enough to allow long stems to grow, and not transparent.

Ruth Hayes, gardening editor of Amateur Gardening, says: 'If you are a stickler for tradition, place a terracotta forcing pot over the top of the plant’s emerging crown, making sure no light can get through.

'Alternatively, a large pot or bucket will do, but do make sure they have no holes in the bottom, as light coming through will disrupt the process.'

Other options available to use as rhubarb forcing pots include plastic reproductions of terracotta forcing pots, dustbins, old chimney pots, or there are decorative forcers that can be purchased.

Problems with forcing rhubarb and how to solve them

Damage from pests such as slugs and snails is a common rhubarb growing problem and these pests can munch on leaves and sometimes the stalks of forced rhubarb. There are simple remedies available to make sure the plant is protected from potential pest damage.

Lucy Chamberlain, fruit and veg expert for Amateur Gardening, recommends: 'Before covering up your clump, lay some form of slug control around the crowns, such as organic slug pellets [available from Amazon] or sharp grit.'

She adds that slug control be topped up regularly as you check under the forcer for progress and start to pull individual stems. Crumbled egg shells, beer traps, or biological control methods are also good tactics for how to get rid of slugs and snails.

Forced rhubarb can suffer from botrytis, a fungus that can cause leaf and crown rot. This is caused by high humidity and a lack of proper air circulation – something that can be an issue under a forcing pot. Remove debris, old leaves, and other plant matter from the crown prior to placing the forcing pot over the clump to help combat botrytis.

 Varieties of rhubarb for forcing 

Early-cropping varieties of rhubarb are the most suitable for forcing, however all varieties can be encouraged to produce stems early given the right conditions. Quicker-maturing variety of rhubarb, such as ‘Hawke’s Champagne’ or ‘Grandad’s Favourite’, are ideal for producing the earliest stems.

Euonymus are deciduous or evergreen shrubs that can be tricky to recognize until fall when you can see the fruits, which are colorful and very distinctive.

Carried in clusters of up to seven, the small fruits are about 0.5-0.75in (1-1.5cm) across, and come in two parts – a small red or orange berry surrounded by three or four fleshy scales in magenta, red, pink, orange, or white. The resulting colors can be very striking, like a cloud of sparkling jewels, and often persist into winter. However, evergreen varieties can not only be shy to fruit but the fruits may be hidden amongst the foliage. 

The flowers that open in early summer and develop into fruits are less impressive – small and greenish or yellow in color.

Their foliage is also an important feature. The leaves of some deciduous varieties turn vivid red in fall – and can be so bright that they’ve earned the common name of burning bush. The evergreen shrubs have small or medium-sized leaves that are often brightly variegated.

'Their value in the garden dwells in the beauty of their fruits, in the autumnal colors of the foliage of some species, and in the rich evergreen foliage of others,' says the international experts at Trees and Shrubs Online.

Euonymus key facts:

• Plant type: Deciduous or evergreen shrubs
• Mature size: 2-6ft (30cm-1.8m)
• Soil type: Any fertile soil that is not parched or waterlogged
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, alkaline
• Time to plant: Spring, fall
• Flowering/fruiting time: Early summer/fall
• Flower color: Greenish yellow
• Berry color: Red, purple, orange
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5-6)
• Scientific name: Euonymus
• Common name: Wintercreeper, burning bush

Types of euonymus

These shrubs can be divided into deciduous and evergreen varieties.

Deciduous euonymus

Sometimes known as burning bush, Euonymus alatus is the only widely grown deciduous species but is considered invasive in many areas. The strawberry bush, Euonymus americanus, is an American native alternative. 

In the UK, Euonymus alatus and the native Euonymus europaeus, the spindle, are commonly grown.

The colorful fruits show up far better on deciduous varieties, as they are not usually hidden by the leaves.

Evergreen euonymus

Evergreen euonymus are either small or medium-sized shrubs with glossy dark green leaves (Euonymus fortunei), or taller, more vigorous, larger-leaved, green-leaved shrubs (Euonymus japonicus). The foliage of many is splashed or edged in white, cream, yellow or gold.

How to use euonymus in your backyard

Euonymus is effective as an edger along paths or sidewalks; as a slope cover where it can also provide erosion control; or as a foundation planting, say the experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden.

Popular uses include the following:

• Shrubs: For an impressive specimen shrub, choose one of the larger evergreens such as Euonymus japonicus ‘Chollipo’ with golden edges to the leaves or the heavily fruiting deciduous spindle, Euonymus europaeus ‘Red Cascade’.
• Ground cover: The creeping forms of wintercreeper, Euonymus fortunei, are ideal ground cover, even growing well in poor soil and dry shade. Look for ‘Dart’s Blanket’ (glossy green) and ‘Silver Queen’ (white-edged green).
• Foundation planting: Blending in well with other foundation plantings, euonymus will tolerate sun or shade. Choose variegated varieties of Euonymus japonicus, such as ‘Gold Spot’ (UK: ‘Aureovariegatus’) or the shorter Euonymus fortunei such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’.
• Hedging: Upright varieties are most suitable for hedging and these include ‘Green Spire’ (very dense growth) and the tough and resilient ‘Manhattan’ (dark green).
• Vines: Some varieties of Euonymus fortunei cling to tree trunks or fences in the same way as ivy. Look for ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’, shown below, and ‘Kewensis’ (small, neat leaves).

How to plant euonymus

Euonymus are not picky about their site and situation. Sun or shade, rich soil or poor, euonymus will usually do well. However, in poor conditions in particular it pays to prepare thoroughly. Soak the plants before planting (adding fertilizer to the water is always a big help) and then irrigate until the plants are well established. Foundation plantings may need a water-efficient soaker hose system as these are often dry situations.

Mulch after planting to help retain moisture and to suppress weed growth. It pays to prune those grown for hedging or as larger specimens after planting to help promote growth that is dense and bushy.

Euonymus are happier than most shrubs in coastal conditions, where they can tolerate the salt in the air, and also grow well in soils that are limey.

How to care for euonymus

No special care is needed to keep euonymus growing well, as they are low-maintenance shrubs. Simply feed annually with a shrub fertilizer (available on Amazon), and renew the mulch every year or two.

Look out for plain green shoots on colored-leaved varieties and trim them off completely. If these more vigorous green shoots are left untouched, they tend to take over the whole plant and the colored foliage will be steadily replaced by green.

Plants grown as hedges can be cut back in spring, and again in late summer if necessary. Snipping back carefully with pruners usually leaves a more attractive finish than using a hedge trimmer, but takes longer. In fact, any euonymus needing re-shaping or encouragement to develop more bushy growth can be pruned in spring.

How to make more euonymus

Evergreen euonymus grown as ground cover may root into the mulch. This can be encouraged by weighing down ground-hugging branches with stones and then snipping them off for replanting when roots have developed.

Evergreen euonymus can also be rooted easily from plant cuttings:

1. In late spring or early summer, snip off shoots that are about 4-6in (10-15cm) long. Recut just below the lowest leaf, then nip off the leaves on the bottom half of the cutting.
2. Fill a clean, 5-6in (12.5-25cm) pot with moist fresh seed starting mix (available on Amazon), tap it on the table to settle it, then push the cuttings into the soil so that the lowest leaf is just above the soil. Fill the pot with cuttings about 2in (5cm) apart, then water. 
3. Stand the pot in an open-topped plastic bag in a light place in a screened porch, sunroom or greenhouse out of direct sun.
4. In a few weeks, you should see roots emerging from the drainage holes in the base of the pot – a sign that your individual rooted cuttings are ready to be moved into pots of their own.

Solving problems with euonymus

Scale insects attack evergreen types – small yellowish or whitish spots appear on the upper surfaces of the leaves and can weaken the plant – sometimes severely. Plants growing poorly because of drought or lack of nutrients are most likely to suffer, so prepare well for planting and make sure the plants are not short of water or nutrients.

Initial infestations can be removed by rubbing with an old toothbrush, but other treatments may be necessary in severe cases. Consult your local extension service for up-to-date advice.

Larger-leaved evergreens, varieties of Euonymus japonicus, may suffer from mildew, especially in dry seasons. It is the problem seen most often and most Euonymus japonicus in most gardens will be infected at one time or another. Effective treatments are available – again, consult your local extension service.

In spring, larger-leaved evergreens are often attacked by caterpillars. Attracting birds to your yard will help deal with them.

Are there native varieties of euonymus?

In the US, the strawberry bush (Euonymus americanus) is native in the east from New York to Florida, and the Western spindletree (Euonymus occidentalis) is native in the west, from British Columbia south to California. Both are good alternatives to the often invasive burning bush (Euonymus alatus).

In the UK, the spindle bush (Euonymus europaeus) is native mainly on limey soils in the south. In autumn, its leaves develop ruby and fiery coloring with clusters of pink and orange fruits at the same time.

Are euonymus invasive?

The burning bush, Euonymus alatus, originally from Asia, has been widely planted for the vivid coloring of its fall foliage, its crop of red fruits and its robust, frost-hardy growth. However, birds eat the fruits and spread the seeds and it quickly escaped from private yards, municipal plantings and public gardens and became established in a wide range of natural habitats.

It can now be found over most of the northeast and spreading into the Midwest and as far south as Tennessee in woods, on waste ground, in wild suburban corners, along interstate highways, in fields – including in coastal areas – and other habitats where its dense growth smothers native plants.

Burning bush has been cited as an invasive plant in over twenty states and planting it has been outlawed in some states owing to its invasiveness – so do proceed with caution if considering it for your backyard.

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) is also seen to be invasive in some eastern states.

How to buy euonymus

In retail nurseries and garden centers, euonymus are sold in small pots for hedging or for window box ideas. They can also sometimes be bought as specimen plants ready to make an impact in large containers. Those in medium-sized pots are ideal for foundation planting or ground cover. 

The same applies to mail-order sources, although the larger sizes may be unavailable or uneconomic owing to shipping costs. Collections of small plants or large plugs for hedging or ground cover are sometimes available and are usually competitively priced.

Where to buy euonymus

Our quicklinks will help you find a euonymus for your backyard:

Shop euonymus in the US:

• Shop euonymus at Amazon
• Shop euonymus at Nature Hills
• Shop euonymus at Fast Growing Trees

Shop euonymus in the UK:

• Shop euonymus at Amazon
• Shop euonymus at Crocus
• Shop euonymus at Thompson & Morgan

While new types of perennials are still appearing in garden centers, it’s the new garden shrubs that are catching our attention. 

Valuable for bringing structure and form to a space, many also offer colorful foliage, as well as flowers and even fragrance. And evergreen shrubs will provide leafy green interest all year round.

In garden centers, new varieties are sometimes flagged up with special displays, but it’s often mail-order sources that offer us new varieties for the first time. Some mail-order nurseries make a point of checking out all the latest new introductions before offering the best – sometimes in small quantities.

Of course, gardeners have to stay on their toes, as the hot new varieties sell out quickly. The splendid new double-flowered Philadelphus ‘Pearls of Perfume’, which flowers not only in spring but all through summer, sold out in just a few days, for instance.

10 garden shrubs to elevate your planting scheme

Our list of top backyard shrubs features lots of exciting new varieties. All have beautiful blooms, too, to give your space more flower power. 

1. Berberis

• Hardiness: USDA Z4-7 (RHS H7)
• Best for: Colorful foliage

New varieties of these tough deciduous shrubs come in new color combinations and with neater-than-usual growth.

‘Orange Sunrise’, pictured, has rich red foliage edged in gold. ‘Chocolate Summer’ has deep chocolate brown leaves, while ‘Venice’ has pinkish leaves turning ruby. All have neat, upright growth.

Berberis plants are tolerant of most soils and situations, but the foliage colors best in full sun.

2. Forsythia

• Hardiness: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Vibrant spring flowers

There are many varieties of forsythia available at Nature Hills. They are early-flowering shrubs that are valuable for brightening the garden after the winter lull. 

In recent years, we’ve seen new forsythias that are neater and more compact, more prolific, and with colorful foliage. At only 23.5in (60cm) in height, the impressively dwarf 'Maree d’Or' is perfect for small spaces. Meanwhile, ‘Discovery’ has yellow-edged foliage to provide color after flowering.

They grow best in full sun in any fertile soil that is not parched or waterlogged. Dwarf types can be grown as part of your container garden ideas.

3. Hebe

• Hardiness: USDA Z7-8 (RHS H4-5)
• Best for: Neat, evergreen shrubs

Hebes are versatile garden shrubs, adding interest to a scene with their often-ornamental foliage and varied colors. Although it's not a new variety, Hebe franciscana 'Tricolor' (pictured), for instance, has wonderful tones of cream, green, and – in cold weather – pink. It also has pale purple flowers in summer.

There is, however, a never-ending series of new hebes to get excited by, too. The five-color 'Red Wine Series', for example, features deep red winter foliage, plus summer flowers. 'Rainbow', meanwhile, has multicolored winter leaves, and 'Starlight' has white-edged leaves and, in summer, white flowers.

Plant hebes in any good, well-drained soil in full sun. They appreciate shelter from cold winds.

4. Hydrangea

• Hardiness: USDA Z3-8 (RHS H5-6)
• Best for: Growing in part shade

Whether landscaping with hydrangeas or growing them in pots, these flowering shrubs are one of our favorites. There are many different types of hydrangeas available at Burpee, as well as other plant retailers, and they are commonly spotted in garden centers, too. 

They grow well in full sun or part shade in moist, well-drained, fertile soil. The best way to prune hydrangeas depends on the variety you have.

New hydrangeas come in a variety of styles. 'Miss Saori' is a traditional mophead type with pink and white double flowers, while 'Runaway Bride' has spreading growth with white lacecap flowers. For smaller spaces, the compact 'Little Spooky' has white conical flowerheads.

5. Choisya

• Hardiness: USDA Z7 (RHS H4) 
• Best for: Prolific flowers

Also known as Mexican orange blossom, choisya is a beautiful backyard shrub for year-round interest. 'Aztec Peal', shown above, is a popular pick and a winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.

Recent developments in these invaluable evergreen plants include combining neater growth and pretty foliage with prolific, fragrant flowers. The new variety 'Appleblossom' has slender foliage, pink buds and fragrant white flowers and reaches only 4ft (1.2m). We also like the equally neat 'Royal Lace', which has fragrant white flowers and slender golden foliage. 

Happy in full sun, or a little shade, and rich soil, these new choisyas also thrive in patio containers.

6. Salvias

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H4)
• Best for: Summer flowers

Salvias are popular perennial shrubs that dazzle in summer with spikes of colorful flowers.

New salvias of all kinds are arriving in garden centers, with some especially pretty shrubby kinds featuring aromatic foliage.

The 'Lips Series' takes the popular red and white ‘Hot Lips’ (shown above, and available on Amazon) into new colors – while 'Oriental Dove' has deep reddish-purple flowers whose lower lips fade almost to white at the edges.

Grow salvias in well-drained soil in full sun or in a pot on the patio or deck. Pruning salvias is generally done in spring.

7. Daphne

• Hardiness: USDA Z7 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Winter fragrance

These are one of the best evergreen, winter-flowering shrubs. Recent varieties have extended the flowering season, enhanced the scent and added attractive foliage.

'Marianni' combines intoxicating purplish flowers in winter and spring with dramatically variegated evergreen foliage. 'Eternal Fragrance' (white) and 'Pink Fragrance' (pink) have six months of scented white flowers.

Daphnes are not fast-growing shrubs, but their beauty and scent are worth the wait. They are happy in rich well-drained soil in sun or part shade or in a container.

8. Lavender

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H4)
• Best for: Bees

Lavenders are some of the best plants for bees and work well in all styles of gardens. New lavenders are becoming increasingly popular as patio plants, with neat growth and amazingly prolific flowering – plus highly aromatic, even variegated, foliage.

The compact 'BeeZee Series' comes in five distinct colors, while the 'Ruffles Series' has elegantly rippled flags at the top of the flower clusters. For something that feels totally different, though, we like 'Meerlo' (shown above), with its creamy-edged leaves. All are ideal in well-drained compost in terracotta pots in a sunny place on the patio.

9. Buddleja

• Hardiness: USDA Z6-8 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Attracting butterflies

Buddlejas – available at Nature Hills – are a favorite for butterfly gardens. Recent developments have often been in the way they grow – with upright buddlejas and weeping buddlejas now available.

‘Butterfly Towers’ (pictured above) has a unique, upright habit, while blue-flowered ‘Wisteria Lane’ develops elegant weeping growth. ‘Berries and Cream’ has purple and white florets, in the same spike. They grow best in sun and good soil – prune in the same way as other buddlejas.

Bear in mind that in some regions, buddleja is considered an invasive plant – so proceed with caution if you're considering one of these backyard shrubs.

10. Azaleas

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H5-6)
• Best for: Patio containers

Two new series of azaleas represent unexpected, but dramatic, developments, and both are ideal for small gardens.

Varieties in the 'Encore Series' (available on Amazon) bloom again after their first spring flush, while the 'Starstyle Series' ('Starstyle pink' is shown above) has pretty starburst flowers and is especially good in containers.

Plant these garden shrubs in lime-free compost in containers set in the sun or in partial or dappled shade. Do not allow the roots to dry out.

Are new varieties of garden shrubs better than old ones?

There is a reason that some plants become firm favorites with gardeners and remain favorites for decades – centuries, even. The most obvious is that they’re attractive, dependable plants that are easy to look after. They may also be easy for nurseries to propagate and develop quickly into saleable plants.

But, new varieties are often developed with today’s gardens, and today’s gardeners, in mind. New shrubs for small gardens, for instance, are invaluable as new properties often have more compact plots. Varieties with a long flowering season give us more from individual plants than those that only bloom for a few short weeks. Pest and disease resistance is also vital, as we try to use fewer pesticides.

So, some new varieties are definitely better than some old favorites. But old favorites are still favorites for a good reason.

By planting ornamental edibles, you can enjoy a beautiful garden as well as the process of harvesting and eating tasty homegrown crops.

We ask a lot from our outdoor spaces and often aspire to good design, year-round interest, wildlife areas and produce all from one plot. This is rather like taking the essence of a country estate with its contours and lakes, shrub borders, parterres and walled kitchen garden and then cramming it into a postage stamp. Can you have it all? Of course you can – based on the French-style potager garden. 

The modern potager is usually a small, well-designed space. As Joy Larkcom suggests in her book Creative Vegetable Gardening, ‘It seems to me appropriate to steal the word "potager" and apply it today to any vegetable garden, of whatever size, which has been touched with the paintbrush of imagination.'

Purely ornamental trees and shrubs are replaced by those producing edible fruits, while groundcover is provided by herbs, perennial globe artichokes, asparagus and strawberries. Shorter-term crops chosen for beauty as well as abundance and flavor slot into formal, sunny beds bisected by pathways. A smattering of flowers for cutting, and to attract beneficial insects, as well as edible blooms such as nasturtiums, are not out of place. Bare corners can be filled with clusters of pots packed with beetroot, kohl rabi or climbing sugar snap peas. 

Even among ordinary types of veg, there are especially attractive cultivars. One year I grew a batch of leeks whose blue-green leaves were so handsome my husband requested some for his ornamental border. Meanwhile, peas, beans and small-fruited squash can make attractive climbers for temporary wigwams of poles or canes. 

One potager pitfall is leaving harvesting longer than usual for fear of spoiling the display. Do set crops slightly closer than normal and keep picking leaves, pulling roots and taking pods until the whole crop has been harvested at the peak of freshness. Canny potager gardeners raise replacements in modules or pots ready to fill gaps.

Grow these ornamental edibles to elevate your space

Whether you're growing in raised beds, containers, or borders, plan now to fill your garden with attractive and tasty ornamental edibles for year-round color and produce.

1. Runner bean ‘St George’ 

• Height: 7ft (2m) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

This climbing runner bean produces bicolored red and white flowers before setting a delicious crop. The beans are up to 12in (30cm) long and mature in clusters for easy picking. 

Other runners with pretty blooms include white-flowered ‘Moonlight’ and peachy pink ‘Celebration’. 

Sow into modules from late spring to mid-summer, and plant out into deeply cultivated soil.

2. Potato ‘Maris Peer’

• Height: 2ft (60cm) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

Originally popular for canning, the tubers of this second early potato are slightly smaller than average, well-flavored, and retain firmness when boiled. 

Attractively domed plants are decorated by plentiful, fragrant purple flowers. 

Plant slightly closer than normal in mid-spring. Tubers will usually have reached full size if and when potato blight occurs. 

3. Pea ‘Blauwschokker’

• Height: 5ft (1.5m) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

Even ordinary white-flowered peas are a beautiful sight, especially when their translucent pods are just setting. 

For years my favorite has been ‘Onward’ for productive, tasty peas. Yet some produce purple flowers and pods, such as mangetout ‘Shiraz’, sugar snap ‘Purple Magnolia’ and this tall, decorative heirloom, dual-purpose type whose pods are good as mangetout or for delivering green peas. 

4. White currant ‘Blanka’ 

• Height and spread: 4ft (1.2m)
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

The small flowers of this currant bush attract many pollinating insects and set into dangling strands of translucent white fruits ready in mid to late summer. These need to ripen fully before they are palatable to eat raw and will require meshing if there are lots of blackbirds around. 

Prune by thinning out older stems during winter.

5. Kohl rabi ‘Kolibri’

• Height and spread: 14in (35cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 9b/10a

This odd-looking veg, whose swollen stem sits above soil level, is mild and delicious raw or cooked. Plus, it's easier to grow and more drought-resistant than the closely-related swede and turnip. 

There are green and purple varieties, with the latter believed to be the hardiest. Sow small quantities from spring to midsummer and harvest when young. 

6. Chard ‘Bright Lights’

• Height and spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 8b/9a

Related to beetroot and perpetual spinach, leafy Swiss chards are a long-lasting crop and one of the easiest vegetables to grow. 

Sowings are made from spring to autumn, with midsummer optimum, as resulting plants will last through to spring. 

If you like thick stalks, go for ‘Fordhook Giant’, but I love the narrower, colorful blades and midribs of ‘Bright Lights’ (you can buy the seeds from Amazon), especially from autumn to spring. 

7. Thornless loganberry ‘Ly 654’ 

• Height and spread: 2m (7ft)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

For a small garden on well-drained soil, a thornless loganberry is perfect to train over a fence, wall or across parallel wires stretched between posts. Expect white blossom and deliciously sweet fruits. 

More robust are thornless hybrid blackberries such as pink-flowered ‘Chester’, but beware as they can become vigorous. Cut out old canes after fruiting and tie in new ones.

8. Leeks ‘Toledo’ 

• Height: 18in (45cm) 
• Spread: 12in (30cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

For attractive foliage, choose leeks with blue-green leaves and the ability to stand well during winter. This high-yielding late variety will not disappoint and neither would the French ‘Bleu de Solaise’. 

Raise young transplants in spring, either under cover or in a seedbed. In early summer, set into deep drills or drop into individual holes. 

9. Blueberry ‘Bluecrop’

• Height: 5ft (1.5m) 
• Spread: 3ft (1m)
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Blueberries give you pretty bell-shaped flowers attractive to insects; delicious fruits; and red autumn tints – but they do need acidic soil. Fortunately, they grow well in generous containers of ericaceous compost. 

For bumper crops of fruit, grow two compatible types together. The cultivar ‘Duke’ will act as a pollinator for ‘Bluecrop’ (both available on Amazon). Occasionally prune back old stems when dormant.

10. Mustard ‘Red Frills’

• Height: 12in (30cm) 
• Spread: 10in (25cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

This is just one of several mustards with pretty, spicy-flavored frilled or indented green and reddish-purple leaves. They're easy choices for the kitchen garden, as can be sown almost year-round as quick cut-and-come-again crops, or space them 6-8in (15-20cm) apart for larger, longer-lived plants. 

Spring sowings may run to seed but those made from summer and autumn can be nursed through winter to spring.

Ivy is an attractive, evergreen, easy-to-grow, shade-loving vine that clings neatly to fences, walls and tree trunks and often features prettily patterned foliage. It is an indispensable plant, tolerating deeper shade than any other vine, but it can be invasive, especially in the West and Midwest.

These adaptable climbing plants cling to their host by tiny roots that develop wherever a stem touches a wall, tree trunk, wooden fence or other support. Ivy is not a harmful parasite – these tiny roots do nothing but hold the stems in place. Ivy also grows as a vigorous and effective ground cover.

The leaves of most ivies are shaped more or less like an arrowhead but some larger ivies have undivided leaves. There are hundreds of varieties, many of the most attractive have leaves that are prettily marked in gray, white, cream or yellow.

When growth reaches better light, or reaches the top of its support, the leaves often become larger and broader and only on this growth do the pale green fall flowers and black winter berries develop. These late flowers are popular with pollinating insects and the berries are eaten by birds.

Ivies also make excellent houseplants as they grow well in the low light inside many homes.

Ivy key facts:

• Plant type: Evergreen vine or ground cover
• Mature size: 6-100ft (2-30m)
• Soil type: Any except permanently wet
• Soil pH: Any except very acid
• Time to plant: Fall, spring
• Flowering/fruiting time: Autumn/winter
• Flower color: Pale yellow, green
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5)
• Scientific name: Hedera
• Common name: Ivy, English ivy

The two main types of ivy

Some ivies have large leaves up to 9in (23cm) across, while some have leaves as small as 1in (2.5cm) across – although most develop larger leaves as they start to flower. 

Large-leaved ivy

Ivies with large leaves are mostly varieties of Hedera algeriensis and Hedera colchica. They are generally more vigorous than small-leaved ivies, though grip their hosts less securely, with less neatly-lobed foliage and a wilder, more disorganized look.

Small-leaved ivy

Ivy plants with small, neat leaves are mostly varieties of the English ivy, Hedera helix. On walls and tree trunks they cling as they climb and branch out to create an overlapping sheet of leaves, a little like disorganized fish scales. Green-leaved varieties grow better in dark shade, variegated varieties prefer lighter shade. Small-leaved ivies can also make a low, flat ground cover.

How to use ivy in your backyard

There are multiple ways to use ivy in your planting scheme – here are some popular approaches for this fast growing climbing plant:

• As a vine: Consider vining ivy as a background to the flower garden and choose the leaf color thoughtfully. ‘Buttercup’ (yellow leaves) or ‘White Ripple’ (silver patterned) are good choices.
• Ground cover: Green-leaved ivy, such as ‘Pittsburgh’, is a good weed-smothering background for daffodils in a small space, while varieties of Hedera colchica are the most effective at smothering and preventing weed growth.
• Hiding eyesores: A fast-growing evergreen vine is sometimes needed to cover a shed or summerhouse that has seen better days. The large-leaved Hedera colchica ‘Dentata Variegata’ is ideal.
• Containers: Choose a variety that is prettily patterned (‘Goldchild’) or with an interesting shape (‘Duckfoot’) to trail over the sides of pots. Ivy is also a great hanging basket plant for a shaded deck.
• Houseplants: Most small-leaved ivies will grow well in the home, but ensure they are watered and fed regularly.
• Topiary: Compact varieties such as ‘Chicago’ are planted in wire frames to create the shapes of animals, often life-sized, or of people. These are relatively short-lived topiary features as ivy plants eventually resent the repeated clipping necessary to keep them to size.

How to plant ivy

The experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden explain that ivy is easily grown in part shade to full shade. It will also grow in full sun. It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers rich loams, and although it tolerates some drought, it produces best foliage color in evenly moist soils – but make sure there is good drainage.

Ivies are best planted in spring or fall, or in mild spells in winter in warmer areas.

When planting against garden walls, the soil may be poor, and the soil next to tree trunks may be full of tree roots. Either way, it pays to prepare thoroughly. Add plenty of garden compost or planting mix to the planting hole. Water in well, and apply a weed-free mulch.

Ivy shoots may need guiding in the right direction before they take a grip. The simplest approach is to use a small piece of duct tape to fix the stems to the climbing surface.

For ground cover, be sure to remove all existing weeds from the area then plant about 9in (23cm) apart. Do not mix different varieties, as in the end, one will usually take over.

How to care for ivy plants

Keep climbing ivies well watered in their first year. Then, once they have started to climb, ivies on walls and tree trunks need little attention. When they reach the top of their support they can be pruned back in spring to prevent the development of flowers and fruits.

If a plant becomes overgrown or falls away from its plant support, it can be cut back to 12in (30cm) in spring and well watered and fed. It will quickly re-grow.

It will take a year or two for ground cover ivies to make a dense cover. Be sure to remove any weeds that appear between the young plants. Spread can be hastened by using stones to weigh down the stems and keep them in contact with the ground. They will make roots and the area will be covered more quickly.

How to propagate ivy

Ivies root easily from plant cuttings at almost any time of the year except during the winter. 

1. Snip off shoots about 3-6in (7.5-15cm) long. Trim below the lowest leaf joint and snip off the leaves on the lower half leaving at least two leaves in place.
2. The cuttings can be rooted in pots of seed starting mix (available on Amazon) – push each in, leaving the lowest leaf just above the soil. 
3. Water well, place in an open-topped clear plastic bag and stand on a shelf in a sunroom or screened porch, out of direct sun.
4. Rooting will take three or four weeks, after which the rooted cuttings can be moved to individual pots.

Common problems with ivy

Ivies suffer from few pest problems, although in some areas they are favorites with deer. Mites, scale insects and aphids may cause trouble, but are much more common on ivies grown in the home than those grown outside. Outside, mites are most common on ivies growing on sunny walls. 

In deck or patio containers, vine weevil grubs can cause serious damage as they eat the roots, especially in winter, and in summer the adults may eat notches in the edges of the leaves. Organic treatments are available for most pest problems.

The only disease that may cause a problem is leaf spot disease which causes ugly brown marks to appear on the leaves. Remove the damaged leaves by hand or, if the infection is severe, use a fungicide.

Different problems need different treatments, so take advice from your local extension service.

Is ivy a good houseplant?

Many ivies make very good plants for indoor gardens, in the right conditions. Variegated, neat-growing varieties such as ‘Eva’ and ‘Harald’ make ideal houseplants and can be trained on ornamental frames. They look good all year round.

The problem is that ivies appreciate cool, moist and shady conditions – they grow naturally in woods and forests – but most homes are warm, dry and some situations can be very bright. The leaves of ivies grown in hot dry rooms indoors can dry out and drop off, and plants are often attacked by tiny mites that dry up the leaves and create gray webbing that develops a cobweb look.

Grown in a cool place, in good light but not in direct sun, indoor ivies can be very attractive if watered regularly, fed every month except during winter, and moved into a slightly larger container when the pot becomes full of roots.

Does ivy kill trees?

In general, no, ivy is not harmful to backyard trees. The tiny roots that attach the ivy stems to their host tree do not penetrate the bark and do not suck sap from the tree. 

Research suggests that trees that host ivy grow as strongly as those that do not. However, when ivy grows high into the crown of the tree, the increased wind resistance can cause the tree to be more susceptible to storm damage.

Is it OK to plant ivy to climb the wall of my house?

Although ivy is often used as a plant for garden walls, many houses are unsuitable as a host for ivy. Its shoots can penetrate cracks in the siding or masonry, block gutters and work their way in around windows. 

Ivy is, however, usually safe on modern brickwork which provides a grip for the tiny roots that support the plant while not providing cracks into which the ivy can insert itself. It pays, though, to cut it back every year to keep the stems out of gutters.

Is ivy deer resistant?

No, generally ivy is not a deer-resistant plant.

The experts at the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, who have investigated deer-resistant plants, rate ivy as 'Occasionally Severely Damaged', the second most deer-resistant category. However, when ivy grows through a deer fence into the unfenced area of a yard it is often quickly eaten.

Is ivy invasive?

Yes, it can be. Ecosystem Gardening has strong views about ivy; 'Unfortunately, English Ivy (Hedera helix) is one of the most pernicious, nasty, and destructive of the invasive plants because it not only destroys native habitat, it can also destroy your house.' But this does not apply in many parts of the country, especially in areas colder than USDA Z4.

Ivy is cited as an invasive plant in western states, it is banned from sale in Oregon, and in the east is considered invasive from Massachusetts and Indiana south to Florida. So, it's best to check before you go to plant it in your backyard.

Variegated varieties are generally much less invasive than green-leaved varieties but may occasionally develop green-leaved shoots – which should be removed promptly.

How to buy ivy plants

In retail outlets, especially DIY stores and many other retail nurseries, ivies are usually offered in small pots making them suitable purchases for both outdoor use and as indoor plants. However, you may find that the variety name is not given or it may be vague, such as 'Variegated'. In that case, check the guidance provided on the tag, or simply pick the plant whose coloring you admire.

Because ivies can be grown both outside and in the home, in garden centers they may be displayed under cover with other houseplants as well as outside, unprotected. The same varieties can usually be chosen for both indoor and outdoor use, but ivies bought from a houseplant display will need help adjusting to cooler outdoor temperatures. Stand the plants in intermediate conditions for a week or two, allowing them to adjust.

Where to buy ivy plants

Want to grow ivy in your plot? These quicklinks will help you get started.

Shop ivy in the US:

• Shop ivy at Amazon
• Shop ivy at Burpee
• Shop ivy at Nature Hills

Shop ivy in the UK:

• Shop ivy at Crocus
• Shop ivy at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop ivy at Suttons

'Hollies are enjoying a peak of popularity as gardeners wake up to their huge diversity of form and fruit and marvel at their adaptability…,' says Christopher Bailes, author of Hollies For Gardeners.

They are a large and unexpectedly varied group of deciduous and evergreen shrubs or small trees that are native to a wide variety of climates. They are grown for their often prolific crop of usually red berries and for their colorful leaves. Evergreen hollies feature bold dark leaves or leaves in a variety of pretty leaf patterns, while the leaves of deciduous hollies often turn yellow in the fall.

Hollies are mostly tolerant and adaptable plants that will grow in a range of garden situations and suffer from few damaging pests or diseases. And, although their flowers are small, the foliage and fruits more than compensate.

There is one unusual feature of hollies, one that can lead to great disappointment unless gardeners keep it in mind when choosing: individual holly plants are either male or female. Only female varieties will produce berries – but a male is needed to provide pollen for fertilization. So, it is important to plant both male and female hollies to be sure of berries.

• Shop hollies in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Shop hollies in the UK: view at Crocus

Holly shrubs and trees: key facts

• Plant type: Evergreen and deciduous shrubs and small trees
• Mature size: 6-30ft (2-9m)
• Soil type: Any reasonable soil that is neither parched nor waterlogged
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, or slightly alkaline
• Time to plant: Spring or fall
• Flowering time: Spring or early summer
• Flower color: Greenish yellow or white
• Fruit color: Red, orange, yellow, white, or black
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z3-9 (UK H5-7)
• Scientific name: Ilex
• Common name: Holly

Types of hollies

There are a few key varieties of holly to consider for your backyard.

• American holly (Ilex opaca): Native in the east and south, from New York south to Texas and Florida, this small olive-colored evergreen makes an attractive tree with red winter berries.
• English holly (Ilex aquifolium): 'English holly is a better ornamental tree than American holly (Ilex opaca),' say the experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden, 'but it has less winter hardiness and is more difficult to grow in the lower Midwest and deep South… Foliage and fruit provide good color for the winter landscape.' Most have spiny leaves. The Highclere holly (Ilex x altaclerensis) is similar.
• Winterberry (Ilex verticillata): 'Heavy berry production for brilliant winter color. Winterberry produces copious amounts of bright red berries that really shine in the fall and winter landscape,' say the experts at Proven Winners. It is native to the northeast, Midwest and south from Quebec to Texas.
• Japanese holly (Ilex crenata): A slow-growing, very small-leaved evergreen with black berries and, often, prettily patterned foliage. Excellent as a low hedging plant, and also for small topiary. 'The Japanese holly and several of its many cultivars are amongst our most useful evergreen shrubs,' says Louise and James Bush-Brown in their classic America’s Garden Book.
• Blue holly (Ilex x meservae): A little like a more compact, winter-hardy version of an English holly with dark, blue-tinted, evergreen leaves and red winter berries. Most are spiny.
• Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta): This very tough evergreen carries a profusion of glistening red berries. Michael Dirr says in Dirr’s Trees and Shrubs for Warm Climates: '…for hot dry areas of the country, this evergreen large shrub would rank in the top five safe choices.'

If you are looking for a particularly striking shrub with berries, the deciduous winterberry, with scarlet or gold berries, shows its prolific crop best. Black-berried evergreen Japanese holly is the least effective while the mix of patterned foliage and red or yellow berries is a feature of English holly, Highclere holly and American holly.

The berries of all hollies are distasteful to birds as they first ripen, but lose the unpleasant taste as the weeks go by – so they last unusually well.

If you want a variety with interesting foliage, deciduous winterberry's leaves turn yellow in fall. And there are many variegated varieties of evergreen English holly and the closely related, but more vigorous, Highclere holly. The leaves may be edged or splashed in shades of white, cream or bright yellow for all-year-round color. With the bright winter berries, they make a splendid sight. Blue-leaved hollies have a blue tinge to the leaves, while some Japanese hollies are olive-tinted or grayish and may be prettily tinted in red in spring.

If you want to create structural impact with your planting pick, a large English holly or Highclere holly in fruit in the fall and winter is a dramatic sight. However, these evergreens do not thrive across the whole country. In warm, challenging climates try ‘Nellie R. Stevens’.

Where to plant hollies

Hollies fall into two groups, and each has different qualities and different needs. 

The evergreen hollies – including the European native English holly and similar plants – prefer milder conditions. They are hardy to USDA Z6-9 (UK H6) and dislike extremes of heat and cold. This group is happy in limey and neutral conditions, and in slightly acid conditions with a good depth of soil.

The other group of both deciduous and evergreen hollies, including the American native deciduous winterberry, is much hardier, USDA Z3-9 (UK H7), and much more tolerant of both summer heat and winter cold. This group tends to be happiest in acid soil types.

In general, most hollies will grow in most conditions but both groups hate waterlogged soil. The lesson from this is that there are hollies for most parts of the country and for most garden situations.

How to plant hollies

Hollies are best planted in early to late fall, although in colder areas it often pays to wait until early spring when the soil has first thawed. In mild areas, planting can continue until late spring but it is important to take special care to ensure the roots do not dry out.

Prepare the ground thoroughly, but be sure not to dig your planting hole and then replace all the garden soil with soil improver, garden compost or potting mix. Instead, mix the existing garden soil with no more than 50% compost.

Soak the roots of your new holly thoroughly before planting, and plant so that the soil in the container is level with the surrounding garden soil. Then mulch with 2in (5cm) of bark or other weed-free organic material. Taller growing varieties, especially evergreens, will need secure support – make sure a stake is in place when planting. Irrigate thoroughly.

Holly care tips

The two most important items of holly aftercare are to prevent the roots of your new holly from drying out – especially in its first year after planting – and to ensure that larger growing evergreen hollies remain secured to their stakes and are well supported. Check, too, that the holly branches do not rub against each other.

Mulching not only helps ensure that the rooting area retains moisture but also inhibits weed growth. All hollies benefit from annual feeding in spring and Holly-tone, available on Amazon, or another shrub fertilizer intended for lime-hating plants is ideal.

Hollies can be clipped into a hedge or formal shape. Or, you can allow them to grow informally, in which case pruning hollies will be to improve the shape of the plant and is best done in summer.

Overgrown hollies can be cut back hard in spring, but it is crucial that the plants do not dry out in their first season after this severe treatment otherwise growth will be poor.

Hollies in containers should never be allowed to dry out and should be fed regularly during the growing season.

How to make more hollies

If your holly delights you with fall fruits then, after they have been eaten by birds and excreted, holly seedlings will usually pop up around the garden. These can be transplanted to a more convenient place to develop and then moved to an appropriate site.

Be aware, however, that your new seedling plants may not turn out to be exactly the same as the plant from which the berry came.

The other way to propagate hollies is to take cuttings:

1. Both deciduous and evergreen hollies can be propagated using 4-6in (10-15cm) cuttings. Take cuttings of evergreens in mid-late summer, and deciduous varieties in early summer.
2. Tidy the cuttings by snipping just below the lowest leaves, then snip off the leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
3. Dip the base of each cutting in rooting gel or rooting powder (available on Amazon), and gently push into 5-6in (12-15cm) diameter pots of seed starting mix up to the lower leaves.
4. Water well and place in a propagator in a cool, bright place. Keep moist, then move the cuttings into individual pots when roots emerge from the base of the pot.

Solving problems with hollies

Hollies are troubled by few serious pests or diseases and, as in so many cases, well-grown plants suffer far less than those planted in unsuitable situations and not looked after.

Many hollies are not deer-resistant plants, so fence protection or a deterrent will be necessary if deer are seen in your area. Rabbits, gophers and other critters can also cause problems eating shoots and stems. Regulations covering how to deal with such creatures may vary from state to state. Leaf miners are tiny caterpillars that tunnel just under the leaf surface creating a network of small disfiguring tunnels: these create more blemish than harm.

Leaf blotches and mildews rarely pose serious problems and are more damaging on plants that are growing poorly and generally unhealthy. Holly blight, however, can be more serious, especially in damp climates, as the lower leaves turn black and drop off. Prevention is the only cure. Check over holly plants before buying and, if the problem arises later, clear away and burn all fallen leaves and remove the mulch as it may harbor disease spores.

Are there any evergreen hollies without spines?

Firstly, if you look at a mature English holly you will often find that the lower branches carry spiny leaves but, higher up and out of the reach of browsing animals, the leaves lose their spines.

Many hollies have leaves with small teeth, far from the vicious spines of some, but there are also a few evergreen holly varieties that have few or no spines – thus better choices for child-friendly gardens (just ensure they don't eat the toxic berries). The outstanding example is ‘J. C. van Tol’. This is an English holly that rarely has any spines on its foliage. ‘Camelliifolia’ is similar.

Are there any hollies that produce berries without a male plant nearby?

Yes, one variety in particular: ‘J. C. van Tol’, is well known, and widely grown, for its ability to produce a generous crop of red berries without a male plant nearby. As mentioned above, the leaves are also almost entirely spine-free, making it an ideal garden variety, although it is strong growing and can reach 16.5ft (5m) in height.

There is also a variegated version, ‘Golden van Tol’, with golden margins to its dark green leaves.

Can you grow a holly in a container?

Yes, hollies grow well as part of a container garden, and make attractive specimens for the deck or patio. But, there are some important points to remember. Firstly, it is not wise to plant spiny varieties where people, especially children, often pass by. 

Secondly, a holly in a prominent position needs to provide value all year round so a variegated evergreen is ideal. Avoid vigorous varieties and prevent waterlogging by standing the pots on pot feet to ensure good drainage.

Varieties of Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) are ideal. ‘Drops of Gold’ has vivid gold shoot tips, ‘Golden Gem’ has yellow-splashed leaves on red stems, ‘Fastigiata’ and ‘Sky Pencil’ have tall and very slender growth, while the rounded growth of ‘Soft Touch’ is similar to boxwood.

Are any hollies deer resistant?

A few hollies are rated as 'Rarely Damaged', the highest category of deer resistance, as assessed by The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. They gather research from a wide range of horticultural experts and rate plants in four categories from 'Rarely Damaged' to 'Frequently Severely Damaged'.

The American holly is rated as 'Rarely Damaged'. More, including Chinese holly, English holly and Winterberry holly fall into the 'Seldom Severely Damaged' category. 

Blue holly and Japanese holly fall into the more worrying 'Occasionally Severely Damaged' but none are categorized as 'Frequently Severely Damaged'.

How to buy holly plants

Both evergreen and deciduous hollies are offered by retailers in the fall, showing off their sparkling, jewel-like fruits. These will be female plants – if there are no male plants offered alongside, shop somewhere else as they clearly know nothing about hollies! Check the tags of any holly plants on display that have no berries and it should be stated that they are male.

Variegated evergreen hollies are often presented all year as they are always very colorful. Plants with variegated leaves and red berries are especially attractive but beware of the spines, which are often very sharp.

Hollies are sold in walk-in nurseries in containers, or balled-and-burlapped with plenty of soil on the roots. If they are offered bare root (with the soil shaken off the roots) leave them in the nursery.

Mail order, plants are available in sizes from tubes to five-gallon pots, sometimes larger, although the larger sizes are not only more expensive but also more costly to ship.

Choosing between annual vs perennial plants may have you confused. These words are often thrown around in gardening, but knowing what they actually mean is super useful when deciding what to grow, especially if you're planning a new planting scheme.

Basically, it's all about the length of their life cycle – some plants are long-lived, and some are not. So, whether you want flowers, shrubs, or trees in your garden border, knowing whether they're perennials or annuals will help you know what to expect.

What is a perennial plant?

Perennials can be trees, shrubs, climbers, or border plants, explains the experts from Amateur Gardening magazine.

Unlike annuals, they continue to grow year after year, provided they're given the right care. This makes them stalwart plants when planning a flower bed, and they should be planted with plenty of space around them to accommodate their growth.

If the plants you have in mind are not evergreen, the stems will die back in winter to crown buds an inch or so above the soil surface, the Amateur Gardening team explains. These are known as herbaceous perennials. 'In spring, when the temperature rises, buds that have been dormant over winter will spring into growth.

'The only time you need to divide a perennial and replant vigorous outer portions is when the center of the plant weakens and dies,' they continue. This is usually done in spring or fall. The exception is if your plant is simply too big for its space, in which case it can be split into more manageable-sized sections and replanted.

Common examples of perennials include roses, lavender, and many spring bulbs, but there are lots more. There are perennials for every garden situation, as long as you take their individual needs, such as preferred soil type, into account. While some need some attention – feeding, pruning and the like – to keep them looking their best, there are many low-maintenance plants that can be more or less left to their own devices once established.

John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening, suggests low-maintenance shrubs for easy-care borders, most of which can be planted relatively cheaply as bare roots. 'You can get a mix of attractive features to give interest all year round ­– think evergreen foliage, spring color, flowers, fruits and autumn color,' he says.

While annuals generally prefer full sun, a wide selection of perennials are shade-loving plants, or will at least thrive in dappled light. Carpeting perennials, such as blue-flowering Ajuga reptans ‘Caitlin’s Giant’ can be valuable for filling tricky spots. Dicentra formosa, which has dangling, heart-shaped lockets in spring and early summer, is another good pick for shadier areas.

Other top perennial picks from the experts:

When should you plant perennials?

According to the RHS, container-grown perennials are best planted in spring or fall, when the ground is warm and moist. Avoid planting in freezing conditions, or if the soil is waterlogged. Watering the plants regularly will help them establish.

Planting bare root plants should be done as soon as you get them – this is usually in fall or winter, adds the RHS.

What is an annual plant?

Annuals are short-lived plants, completing their entire life cycle in just one year. But that's no reason to dismiss them from your backyard plans. They are valuable for bringing a splash of color to flower beds, filling in gaps between perennials, and attracting wildlife to your garden.

There are both hardy and half-hardy annuals available, all of which bloom from mid to late summer. They are lovely cutting garden flowers, and can even be grown to provide posies for special occasions. 'Some choice plants are agrostemma, Anchusa capensis, calendula, Centaurea cyanus, Linum grandiflorum, nigella and Scabiosa atropurpurea,' says John.

As they can easily be grown from seed, they are a budget-friendly way to bring blooms into a garden. In fact, with most varieties, you can collect seeds from the flowers to sow for new blooms the following year.

'Before sowing hardy annual seeds, cover the ground with black plastic to warm the soil,' John advises. Sow seeds thinly in rows 6-8in (15-20cm) apart in well-prepared soil in late spring, and thin seedlings to 5in (13cm) apart.

Sow your half hardy seeds under gentle heat in early spring, John continues. 'Prick out seedlings and harden them off for transplanting outdoors after the frosts,' he says. Alternatively, you can buy plants from the garden center in late spring or early summer and set them outside – as long as all risks of frosts have passed.

They are generally low maintenance once they're in the ground, apart from needing a spot of watering during dry spells. Some, such as sweet peas and sunflowers, require stakes for support.

More top annual picks from the experts:

Annuals vs perennials: which is best for your garden?

Trying to choose the winner when it comes to annual vs perennial plants is an impossible task – both types of plants are valuable and have different uses in the garden.

Annuals are cheap and cheerful, easy to look after once they've got going, and give you the flexibility to switch up your flower bed ideas year after year. From floaty cosmos and scented sweet peas to fiery nasturtiums and meadow flowers, they definitely give the summer garden an extra dose of personality and color.

The longevity of perennials means they are generally more expensive, and some plants require maintenance and protection from frost. However, they're essential in providing the bones of the garden – from structural shrubs to flowering favorites such as roses, salvias, and lavender. 

If you're trying to stick to a budget, build up your perennial collection over time. There are also some clever ways to reduce costs, for instance, by taking cuttings from plants.

Maybe you were thinking there aren’t that many vegetables to plant in December? Well, you’d be amazed how many crops benefit from winter sowing, whether to make the most of the extra weeks on the plot or under glass, or to improve the flavor or vitality of the veggies you grow. Super-hot chillies use the extra time to develop tongue-tingling fruits – whilst kales develop tender-tasting leaves in the cool, crisp air. Even on the shortest day (21st December), there are planting traditions attached to growing garlic that can help ensure the tastiest returns at harvest time.   

Unheated greenhouses and cold frames give you the perfect setting for maintaining balance, ventilation and protection for fledgling plants. For those crops that are a little bit more vulnerable to the cold, heated propagators can help with germination and early seedling health. You can also make more of the light with the help of grow lamps – and even grow some crops without any light at all. This is such an exciting time as we look ahead to the new vegetable planting calendar year, the longer days and the future gardening possibilities. 

We’ve compiled the must-grow veggies you need to focus on during the winter weeks. From pink oyster mushrooms and red hot chilli peppers to undercover treats that provide quick nourishment and variety, our round-up of vegetables to grow will keep you stocked up in winter warmers for months to come.

12 vegetables to plant in December for months of tasty and nutritious treats

If you’re keen to kickstart another year of healthy, tasty crop-growing in the best possible way, a few early sowings and plantings will put you in a very strong position for when spring arrives. From gargantuan garlic to teensy clumps of cress, there’s plenty here to please your palates. 

Enjoyable and inventive kitchen garden ideas such as sea kale and pink oyster mushrooms can be found even when daylight seems low. And if natural light seems non-existent, you can always grab some chicory and find out how easy it is to cultivate exotic chicons! Whether you’re after quick croppers, bulky bulbs or interesting new colors in the coming months, this must-grow guide for December planting is sure to inspire.

1. Red kale

When it comes to hearty crops that deliver in all weathers, they don’t come more resilient than kale. These kick-ass cabbage cousins are some of the best low maintenance plants you can grow. Revered as an ornamental superfood, kale is packed with minerals like calcium, folates, and vitamins A, C and K. As well as being amongst the best winter brassicas you can harvest, it is a surprisingly adaptable crop to start off in the latter stages of winter. Red kale is ideal both as mature plants that crop into autumn, and as baby leaves to harvest five weeks from sowing. So for cool pickings that benefit from crisp freshness at both ends of the year, make kale one of your key vegetables to plant in December. 

Varieties such as ‘Red Russian’, ‘Redbor’ and ‘Scarlet’ make for tender cold-hardy mini crops as well as enduring garden staples. Leave them to bulk up in cool and shady garden displays, and they will reward you with a glut of luscious leaves come harvest time. Many varieties have been bred for high levels of disease resistance, as well as tolerance to weather extremes. What’s more, if they are exposed to chills, it can improve the taste. As Amateur Gardening’s veg expert Lucy Chamberlain notes, the only thing these plants need if grown to full size is some space. ‘If you intend to grow plants to maturity, grow them 24in (60cm) apart each way. Plant at greater density if you plan to grow outside,’ says Lucy.

Knowing how to grow kale doesn’t involve much ongoing care beyond watering and weeding. When harvesting the leaves, Lucy recommends working from the base up and keeping the central rosette intact for the most prolific crops. Great companion plants for kale include tomatoes, garlic, chives, leeks and tagetes.

• Buy ‘Redbor’ kale in the US: view at Super Seeds
• Buy ‘Redbor’ kale in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

2. Edible dill

Delicate, feathery and evocative of aniseed balls, dill is mistakenly believed to be tricky to cultivate. This couldn’t be further from the truth, and the slow, sleepy pace of winter is the perfect time to indulge in early sowings. Packed with antioxidants, magnesium and vitamins, and believed to help reduce cholesterol and the risk of heart disease, dill is often overlooked in favor of the staples like basil and parsley. However, if you want to create a herb garden with real scope, it is well worth squeezing into your winter gardening routine. 

When making December planting of dill undercover, you just need to make sure you choose a suitable propagation zone with regulated light and warmth. If you can find a space in your greenhouse, all you need to factor in are a couple of heated propagators and heat mats if you want to grow dill ahead of the pack. While dill is cold-hardy, it germinates best where soil temperatures are kept at around 65˚F. Make sure your developing dill receives at least six hours of sunlight a day and keep the soil slightly acidic, well drained and, above all, moist (not soggy). 

As seedlings develop, you can pot dill on in a garden planter alongside rocket, cilantro and chervil. Plant out only once the last risk of frost has passed, or keep indoors. Harvest from eight weeks after sowing, and don’t be afraid of pinching the tips as this can promote bushier growth. Allow a couple to flower, and you can also enjoy the seeds. Try compact ‘Fernleaf’ and dwarf ‘Bouquet’ for containers, and ‘Mammoth’ if you have space and fancy something with more decorative potential. 

• Buy ‘Mammoth’ dill in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy 'Mammoth' dill in the UK: view at Amazon

3. Super-hot chillies

Some of the most critical vegetables to plant in December are those super-hot chillies designed to get your taste-buds a-tingling. As Chris Bonnett of Gardening Express points out, very hot chillies grow slowly. They need warmth and humidity – and plenty of it – to ripen fully. So the sooner you start off those Carolina Reaper, Trinidad Scorpion and Naga peppers, the better. As anyone who grows chillies will know, indoor sowing is the best way of moderating the conditions these plants crave early on. Starting in December guarantees that those eventual fruits have plenty of time to acquire the atomic levels of heat required. 

For clarity, it is the Capsicum chinense varieties that benefit most from these earlier sowings to bring about the most bountiful harvests. (For comparison, C. annuum varieties are best sown a little later.) 

‘To get the best results, sow seeds in multi-purpose or seed compost. Keep plants in a heated propagator (set to 77˚F/25˚C or higher) under a growing light until seedlings appear,’ says Chris. Chilli enthusiasts are advised to kickstart their fiery campaigns by growing vegetables in pots and keeping those emerging seedlings as warm as possible with a heated mat or similar. Water just enough to keep the surface of the compost moist and prevent chills below the surface level. Once plants are 6in (15cm) high, you can pot them on. 

They can also be planted up in borders and grown in tandem with rosemary, oregano, nasturtiums, dill, parsley, basil, chives, beans and peas. Once they fruit, water sparingly and expose to more sun for crops that really feel the burn. Super-hot chillies reward a long season of care, warmth and a light seaweed feed with unforgettably vibrant fruits that pack a real punch.

• Buy Habanero chillies in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy Habanero chillies in the UK: view at Suttons

4. Wild rocket

Snappy, peppery and resilient, if there’s one leafy plant guaranteed to be the life and soul of the salad bar this winter, it’s wild rocket (arugula). As a cut-and-come-again cropper, it has a short life but makes the most of it and crams in a belly-full of flavor. Our recommendation for December planting is ‘Dragon’s Tongue’, a feisty purple and green rocket that grows well in winter and is loaded with potassium and vitamin C.

If you are looking for something simple to plant in a greenhouse and you want quick returns to keep you fed in these chilly days, wild rocket delivers – and it doesn’t skimp on heat! Sow batches in an unheated greenhouse or a cloche every two weeks, or keep on a windowsill for bursts of continuous growth. You can grow rocket and other herbs together in pots, and also plant in tandem with spinach, mizuna and mustards. Growing in shallow containers allows you to cultivate clumps in successive harvests, picking a few leaves from each plant when needed. 

Fans of companion planting can try growing with onions, chives and garlic, which can all help to intensify the taste. Younger leaves are milder and more delicate, while older leaves will be hotter. You can also eat flower buds and shoots, but pinching them out will prolong cropping. 

• Buy rocket in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy rocket in the UK: view at Amazon

5. Elephant garlic

Also called wild leek (Allium ampeloprasum), this garlic develops gargantuan bulbs. As Chris Bonnett notes, if soil is moist and free draining, these chunky croppers appreciate a winter planting. Plant in situ, giving each one an 8in (20cm) space on all sides – or start under a cold frame.

Big on character but gentle on the tongue, elephant garlic is unfussy about wet winters – as long as you avoid waterlogging. If your soil holds water, add sand to the planting hole and top with fine compost to assist with drainage and keep your elephants happy. Garlic benefits from this period of dormancy, and traditionally gardeners are encouraged to plant on the shortest day of the year (21 December). And for those who are short on space and looking for small vegetable garden ideas, garlic can even be planted in large tubs or buckets.

The planted clove swells to a monobulb, but plant now for a long season and this will split into more. This garlic grows flower spikes that reach 1.5m tall. When learning how to grow garlic, one good cultivation tip is to eat the stems (scapes) so energy is directed towards developing the bulbs, then lift in June. And don't forget about including companion plants for garlic in your plot – some potatoes and brassicas will help improve the health of your crops and increase your yield.

• Buy garlic in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy garlic in the UK: view at Crocus

6. Potted mint 

If you’re after something as varied as it is fast-growing, make some room in your December planting for ‘fruity’ mints. Because mint is one of the best herbs to grow in your garden, you may think it is best in an open space. Yes, mint is a robust, prolific perennial with a reputation for taking over – but at this time of year, you can keep things well contained if you grow mint in good-sized pots kept under glass. Crinkly sweet Moroccan mint (Mentha spicata var. crispa), crispy apple mint (M. suaveolens) and aromatic strawberry mint (M. x piperita) are well suited to container growing, and their hardy, fuzzy-haired leaves make them ideal for winter growing. 

As Chris Bonnett explains, mint is perfect for growing in the chilly winter months. You can enjoy the freshest, most fragrant leaves if you have room undercover in a bright, partially shaded greenhouse or mini greenhouse or a light windowsill. Even the most vigorous mints can be kept in check if you use a large pot, tub or a bucket (with holes). 

‘Place the plant in a spot that’s in partial shade and keep the soil moist but well-drained,’ says Chris. More established potted mints work well with other container-kept herb garden ideas such as curly parsley and spicy oregano. If contained well, it’s also an ideal companion for carrot and kale as it can deter common pests.  

As well as growing from seed, you can also cultivate new mint plants at this time of year by taking root cuttings. This is a quick and easy way of hedging your bets. Cut sections of roots into 1.5in (4cm) lengths, place on gritty compost, cover and water well. Leave in a frost-free spot under glass and then, in spring, grow the young cuttings in their own pots.

• Buy apple mint in the US: view at Trade Winds Fruit 
• Buy apple mint in the UK: view at Crocus

7. Chicory and chicons

This entry into our top vegetables to grow in December offers a generous two-for-one offer! Grow chicory to eat over the coming weeks as a quick leafy treat – or let it develop in the ground and then make a delicacy known as ‘chicons’. Leaving the plant to build up a long tap root, you use that root in December to sprout torpedo-shaped chicons using a technique known as ‘forcing’. Intrigued? You should be! 

Sown on heat mats under glass, varieties such as ‘Palla Rossa’ and ‘Sugar Loaf’ make a snappy, flavorsome cut-and-come-again option. As Lucy Chamberlain points out: ‘Just give them ample light by placing them on a bright windowsill or on greenhouse staging.’ These are some of the easiest vegetables to grow in winter. But if you’re feeling like developing a variety for forcing over winter, we recommend ‘Witloof’ or ‘Witloof Zoom’.     

Grown in raised garden beds in warmer months, the thick tap roots that develop can be forced the following December. Cover with a forcing jar or bucket, or place roots in sandy compost in large pots and leave in a dark place. This coaxes them into early growth, resulting in chicons; a crisp, creamy delicacy that can be enjoyed raw with citrus fruits or braised in white wine and thyme. 

• Buy chicory in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy Witloof chicory in the UK: view at Amazon

8. Sea kale

You might not fancy the thought of eating ‘sea-colewort’ or ‘scurvy grass’. But trust us, the sea cabbage (or sea kale) is well worth including in your vegetables to grow in December. Sea kale (Crambe maritima) is both a pretty ornamental and a unique edible – and just like chicory, it presents you with the chance to force shoots into early growth from root cuttings for an ocean-soaked delicacy. 

If you don’t have sea kale, start some indoors. A variety like ‘Lily White’ is ideal. When they are ready to transplant, grow out in slightly alkaline soil, full sun or partial shade. Like the best coastal plants, it is happy in wind, rain and salt spray, and is drought-tolerant and frost-hardy. Once your plant is a couple of years old, it can be forced in December. These are some of the best winter vegetables to grow and don't require a lot of cultivation.

Pack root cuttings in big containers of sand or soil in the dark, or cover with a black bucket or rhubarb forcer (you can grow rhubarb by forcing in the same way). In five weeks, these maritime marvels will be delicious raw or steamed with butter. Their succulent shoots with purple tips are likened to an oceanic asparagus! 

• Buy sea kale in the US: view at Seeds Gallery
• Buy sea kale in the UK: view at Plants of Distinction

9. Cress

Don’t let anyone tell you cress is boring: it’s a veritable dynamo of vitamins and minerals such as iron and calcium. The best thing about cress (Lepidium sativum) is how easy it is to grow it. As Amateur Gardening's organic veg expert Bob Flowerdew says: ‘You can grow cress in shallow trays with moist paper towels and sit in a windowsill: the perfect accompaniment for all those turkey sandwiches!’  

Its distinctive signature is summed up in its other names: peppergrass, pepperwort and pepper cress. You can grow common and watercress varieties, and curled, frilly types. It’s also easy to grow these punchy micro-greens in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame. Just keep cress growing in moist conditions, whether on paper or in seed compost. Boost moisture by covering seeds with cling film: germination takes place in 48 hours, and you can harvest within a week. In much the same way as you might grow bean sprouts, you'll find that cress crops quickly and prolifically.

Because it’s quick-growing, cress is an ideal choice for interplanting with tomato seedlings. It also works well as a companion plant for herbs such as chive and mint, which can help you add another dimension of fresh flavor to your winter salads.

• Buy cress seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy cress seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

10. Purple asparagus

Homegrown asparagus is a luxury we can all enjoy – and winter is your time to plant crowns in light, well-drained soil. There’s something so indulgent about knowing how to grow asparagus, so we couldn’t resist including them in our rundown of vegetables to grow in December. But while you may picture classic green spears with tinted tips, seared and dripping in butter, there is another option. Purple asparagus is nuttier, and also sweeter, with 20 per cent more sugar in its stalks. 

Although the fluffy foliage is usually green, the spears are distinguished by intense violet hues and plumper tips. They are also less fibrous (so more tender) than other types and loaded with antioxidants. Have we convinced you yet? Mouth-watering beauties include: ‘Pacific Purple’, a two-tone crop; crunchy ‘Burgundine’, an easy-going hybrid; and ‘Purple Passion’, cold-hardy with tinted fronds as well as crops. 

Planted now during dormancy, they have time to settle before the growing season begins. It takes three years for plants to fully establish, but with space and sunshine, these purple beauties are worth the wait. Just remember after harvesting to give the ground a good mulching and let plants get their beauty sleep, so succulent spears rise year after year.

• Buy asparagus crowns in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy asparagus crowns in the UK: view at Amazon

11. Lamb’s lettuce 

Rapunzel, Mache, Valentin: the dreamy names associated with these spoon-shaped leaves indicates a delicate crop. But lamb’s lettuce (Valerianella locusta) is a robust winter-hardy stalwart, and one of our top picks for December planting. Also known as corn salad, this fresh nutty leaf crop is capable of high yields – the Louviers types are perfect for winter growing. Its soft, distinctive lobes are a seasonal salad staple, so if you’re growing lettuce in winter it perfectly offsets tangy crops like rocket.  

Lamb’s lettuce is great to grow this month, as it prefers cool, moist conditions. As long as there’s sun, it’s fine starting this salad green off in shallow trays in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse; growing in pots under glass or on a windowsill is also possible. Cloches can help speed growth, and remember to water plants well. This is a classic cut-and-come-again (abundant, easy, nutritious), so sow densely and repeat every two weeks. Cut while young and lush, and use sharp scissors so you don’t damage the main stem.   

Tasty corn salad varieties to try include: mildew-tolerant ‘Elan’ and ‘Favor’; ‘Vit’ for vigorous baby leaves; and ‘Dark Green Fully Hearted’ (Louviers) for its dainty but frost-hardy oval leaves. 

• Buy corn salad in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy lamb’s lettuce in the UK: view at Amazon

12. Pink oyster mushrooms

Do not adjust your screens, folks: these coral-colored fungi really are as vibrant as they look. Those looking to grow mushrooms would be right in thinking you’re spoiled for choice, but pink oysters are especially well-suited to indoor growing this month. Native to tropical climes, they thrive in temperatures between 64˚F and 80˚F (18˚C and 27˚C). They also grow quickly, producing fruits in three weeks, so they should definitely be on your shortlist of vegetables to grow in December. 

These vigorous, heavy-yielding edibles have a firm texture and a meaty quality. Rich in flavor, the pink oyster (Pleurotus djamor) is a striking addition to stir-fries and soups, and can be cut and fried for a convincing bacon substitute. Pink oysters are not fussy and will grow on a range of substrates: straw, sawdust blocks, paper, hardwood and coffee grounds. We recommend straw for your first attempts.

Moisture and humidity are key to success. Oysters are also shade loving so bear this in mind when selecting a spot for cultivation. Spray the walls of the greenhouse or surrounding interior twice a day to help with this. Harvest before caps turn up. Pinks are prolific bloomers, so a plentiful harvest is assured if they are treated well. 

• Buy mushrooms in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy mushrooms in the UK: view at Suttons

What else can I do on the vegetable plot in December?

• Now is the time to protect all potted exotic fruits. Prevent waterlogging by standing outdoor pots on pot feet. If you are growing fruit in pots you should also make sure that your exotics are moved to a frost-free place now. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal, but a shed or garage will suffice. If your pots are too large to move, cloak them in a tent of horticultural fleece and cap the top with bubble wrap.
• Create bean trenches: if you want to know grow runner beans that crop from July to November, they need care from the roots up. To help beans develop an extensive system once planted, start now with the planting bed. Lucy recommends digging a trench 10-12in (25-30cm) deep and (for a row) 3ft/90cm wide and 8ft/2.4m long, or (for a circle) 4ft/1.2m wide. Tip well-rotted compost into the base and cover with soil.
• Continue checking stored apples and pears. If any are on the turn, don’t throw them on the compost heap: put fruit spoils to good use. Ground-feeding birds like blackbirds and song thrushes will love to feed on these spoils – and in the depths of winter, they might attract redwings and fieldfares, says Lucy. So as well as knowing how to make bird feeders, make sure any spoils get picked up by your feathered friends.
• Keep your redcurrant bushes dripping in berries with some winter pruning. Assess the plant for dead or diseased growth. Grab your best secateurs and remove this as a priority. Then identify the fruit buds: the tiny cone-shaped buds that stick out at right angles to the main stems. Your pruning objective is to keep a good amount of stems bearing these buds. Remove congested growth and shorten over-long new growth.

Are you pondering over some Christmas cactus problems? These houseplants are one of our favorites for brightening an interior during the colder months of the year, but their slight diva-ish tendencies mean they don't always grow how we'd like them to.

To put it plainly, Christmas cactus care requires a bit of know-how, and as a result, there are a few issues that are quite common when growing these plants. So, if your succulent looks shriveled rather than stunning, has failed to flower, or has dropped its leaves seemingly at random, don't despair. Our guide explains what to do.

• Shop Christmas cactus in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop Christmas cactus in the UK: view at Suttons

5 Christmas cactus problems to look out for

Don't let these Christmas cactus problems put you off – once you know how to avoid them, they make fabulous Christmas plants.

1. Snapping stems and dropping leaves

If the stems of your Christmas cactus are snapping, meaning whole sections are being shed, too much water is probably to blame.

Overwatering houseplants is nearly always problematic and often leads to rotting. So, to avoid this issue, improve your Christmas cactus watering routine by only watering when the top of the compost feels dry. Ensuring the container has drainage holes, and mixing grit into the soil when you plant it, can also help.

Remember, too, that these plants need to go through a resting period from mid-winter to late spring. During this time, water less than you would the following summer, which is when the plant will enter its growing phase again. 

In early fall, they enter a second resting period, which is when the buds begin to develop, explains the experts from Amateur Gardening magazine. Again, reduce watering slightly during this time, until the buds have formed.

2. A lack of flowers

One of the reasons these indoor plants are so popular is their vibrant flowers, ranging in color from bright red and pink to elegant white. It's no surprise, then, that one of the most disappointing Christmas cactus problems that can occur is a lack of blooms altogether.

To get a Christmas cactus to bloom, the plants need the two resting periods explained above. John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening, points out that monitoring the temperature during the second resting period is particularly important for encouraging blooms. Temperatures of 65°F (18°C) or above will be too warm during this time, and as a result, they 'inhibit flower initiation, delay the onset of flowering, and reduce the length of the plant’s flowering period,' he says.

'When the flowering buds have formed, increase the temperature back to 18-20°C (65-69°F).

'Your plant should then flower and give you a wonderful display,' he says. 'Exact temperatures are not critical to promote flowering, provided your plant has two resting periods with a reduction in watering and temperature.'

If your Christmas cactus has failed to flower, you can try repotting it in cactus compost and positioning it in light shade, says Christine Walkden, also of Amateur Gardening magazine. 'It is not happy in deep shade or bright, hot sunlight.

'Clean its leaves, to help them breathe better, by dabbing them with a kitchen towel soaked in milk,' she adds.

John also suggests feeding it with a high-potash tomato fertilizer – available on Amazon – when it is showing flower buds to encourage the blooms.

3. Buds falling off before blooming

If flower buds are falling from your plant, rather than entire sections of stem, you are likely under-watering your plant. 

These houseplants love humidity and need moisture to stay healthy. In fact, if you're also wondering why your Christmas cactus is wilting, a lack of water can be to blame. 

Use rainwater collected from the garden when watering, and don't let the soil dry out completely. Improve the conditions and your plant may revive, with the leaves plumping back up again after a week or so.

Flower buds dropping can also be put down to sudden changes in temperatures, says Jo Lambell, Founder of Beards & Daisies. 'During the growing season, it's best to maintain a temperature of 64.4-68°F (18-20°C).'

4. Discolored foliage

Have you noticed your Christmas cactus' leaves turning pink? 

'Discoloring happens when the Christmas cactus is exposed to too much light,' explains Jo. 'Remember, these cacti are different from desert cacti and are used to dappled light as they grow naturally in rainforests.'

As they do best in a semi-shaded space, it might be time to rearrange your indoor garden.

5. Lackluster growth

If your Christmas cactus is generally looking a little worse for wear – despite correct watering, positioning, and temperature – it might be an issue with the container it's planted in.

The RHS explains that over-potting – that is, repotting a Christmas cactus in a pot that's too large – can cause poor growth. A good way to check is by carefully removing the pot and inspecting the roots. If there is no sign of obvious new growth, gently brush away excess soil and repot it into a smaller container. This action should encourage new root growth and recovery, they explain.

How do you regenerate a Christmas cactus?

Even if you avoid the Christmas cactus problems above, after a good few years these plants can start to decline. But, it's possible to regenerate them and give them a new lease of life.

'Remove any obviously dead shoots and shorten it to within 6in (15cm) of the base,' says John Negus. 'Then, repot it in loam-based ericaceous compost, augmenting it with a quarter part, by volume, of coarse grit. Water it in with clean rainwater.

'Finally, position it in light shade to simulate its natural habitat. Within three or four weeks, new shoots will proliferate from the woody stock to create a fine new plant.'

What are the white threads in the compost of my Christmas cactus?

'The white "cobwebs" covering the compost are questing mycorrhizal strands that live symbiotically and beneficially with the plant’s roots,' explains John.

However, if you have noticed a whiteish-grayish mold on the leaves and stems of your plant, it has likely caught botrytis blight – a fungal disease. Sadly, the best course of action is generally to destroy the plant – and quickly, before the problem spreads to any of your other indoor plants. However, in mild cases, it may be worth removing the affected areas first, in an effort to save it.

Improving ventilation and reducing humidity so it's not excessive can help keep this problem at bay.

There are some essential Christmas cactus watering tips that will up your chance of success with these beautiful, blooming plants. As we all know, watering is a key maintenance job for any houseplant (or indeed, garden plant). But, there are some right and wrong ways to go about it, and the wrong ways can do more harm than good.

We explain the things to bear in mind before you reach for your watering can, so you can provide the best Christmas cactus care possible.

• Shop Christmas cactus in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop Christmas cactus in the UK: view at Crocus

4 Christmas cactus watering tips for top houseplant care

This advice will keep these glorious Christmas plants thriving through the festive season and beyond.

1. Keep the humidity levels high

Hailing from coastal, mountainous, jungle regions in Brazil, these pretty succulents like humid conditions and plenty of warmth. So, for the best results, you'll need to take steps to recreate this type of environment in your home.

Similar to calathea care, regular misting is beneficial, as is standing the pots on trays of wet gravel. Keep them away from radiators, and consider using them as bathroom or kitchen plants – rooms where the air is naturally more humid.

2. Don't underwater your Christmas cactus

As well as keeping the air humid, you'll also need to water your Christmas cactus. Not doing so can result in the buds of your Christmas cactus falling off before they've burst into bloom.

'In nature, the plant colonizes sunny river and streamside banks and is splashed with water. If you deprive it of moisture, the roots die and shoots will wither,' explains the experts at Amateur Gardening magazine.

In general, you should water your plant when the compost starts to dry a little and the pot feels light, they add.

3. But, avoid overwatering your Christmas cactus, too

Overwatering indoor plants almost always leads to problems. It is one of the biggest killers of the Christmas cactus, as it can lead to diseases such as white rot. It can also cause the leaves to drop off.

'Only water when the top two inches of soil are completely dry, so use your finger or a pencil to test its moisture levels before each water,' says the team at Baby Bio®. If it feels dry, aerate the soil before watering to allow for an even distribution, they add.

When planting your Christmas cactus, be sure to use a pot with drainage holes which will reduce the chance of it becoming waterlogged. Adding horticultural grit to the compost will help, too.

4. Use the right sort of water

Use lime-free water – clean rainwater collected from the garden is ideal, says the Amateur Gardening experts. 

It's also best to use tepid water, advises the team at Baby Bio®, otherwise you may shock your plant and cause damage.

How often should you water a Christmas cactus?

As the Christmas cactus watering tips listed above demonstrate, getting the balance between overwatering and underwatering right is essential for the best results. This means paying careful attention to your indoor plant and its soil, and adjusting your watering schedule accordingly.

Generally, though, err on the side of caution. 'They only require watering once every couple of weeks during the summer, and as little as once a month during winter,' says the team at Baby Bio®. 

Trying geranium propagation at home is really straightforward and super rewarding. Everyone loves these colorful container-garden staples, otherwise known as pelargoniums, with their range of reds, whites, and crimson-pink blooms. So if you have one in your yard, why not expand your collection for free?

Generally, taking cuttings from plants is one of the best methods of propagation and there are a few different types of cuttings you can take. With geraniums, which are tender plants, you'll need to take softwood cuttings. This is material from soft, green, new growth, which roots easily. For some varieties, you can also grow new plants from seed.

When to take cuttings from geraniums

According to the RHS, the best time to take cuttings for geranium propagation is from spring to autumn. John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening, says late summer is the ideal time.

The cuttings can then be overwintered, ready for planting out on a sunny patio when temperatures warm.

How to take geranium cuttings in 5 simple steps

Attempting to root your cuttings in water, rather than soil, is a mistake when propagating geraniums. Instead, you'll need to use a gritty compost.

1. Shorten the side shoots of your geraniums to 4-6in (10-15cm) and keep the healthiest bits of removed plant material.
2. Pinch off the lower leaves and tip from the offcuts and cut the bottom off so they are around 3in (7cm) long. Remove any flowers, adds John.
3. Dip the cut end of the stem in hormone rooting gel or powder (available on Amazon) to help the development of a strong root system.
4. Insert the cutting into a pot filled with a dampened gritty mix of cuttings compost and perlite or vermiculite.
5. Water them in and place in a frost-free greenhouse or on a light, cool windowsill out of direct sunlight. They will root within a few weeks.

Once they have rooted, if your cuttings are in individual pots, leave them for a few more weeks and then pot them into larger pots of peat-free compost, says John. 'If you have several cuttings in one pot, when roots start to show through the bottom gently knock them out and pot them on individually.'

How should you care for your geranium cuttings over winter?

'Rooted pelargonium cuttings need 
a minimum winter temperature of 45°F (8°C),' says John. 'Older plants may be able to cope with lower temperatures if their compost is dry, but cuttings are more vulnerable in having fewer roots and leaves.'

A slightly heated potting shed is the ideal place (as long as it is quite light), he continues. If you have taken lots of cuttings, you could divide them between the shed and the greenhouse, if you have one, to see how they get on, he adds. 

'In both cases, keep watering to a minimum, so the compost is barely moist. Cover those in the greenhouse with fleece [available on Amazon] when cold overnight temperatures are forecast,' – this will help protect the plants from frost.

'Uncover your plants during the day to prevent the build-up of condensation and moisture, which almost always leads to problems with grey mold. Also, remove dead and damaged foliage and any flower buds that develop.'

Don't forget to winterize your full-sized geraniums, too.

How to propagate pelargoniums from seed

You can increase your stocks of some varieties of pelargoniums by growing them from seed. As the RHS explains, these are the bedding types (Zonal F1 and F2). 

Some 'species' pelargoniums can also be propagated this way, they add. These include Pelargonium odoratissimum which has apple-scented leaves, Pelargonium capitatum which is rose-scented, and Pelargonium vitifolium (lemon). All are beautiful additions to a container garden in summer, or a bright windowsill indoors.

While some plants produce hundreds, if not thousands of seeds, pelargoniums are very much the opposite. 'Pelargoniums have a rule: one flower, one seed, that's your lot,' says the team at Chiltern Seeds. And, these have to be hand-picked, which explains why you won't get many seeds in most shop-bought packets.

Sow the seeds in late winter in a sheltered, warm environment, such as a heated greenhouse. Keep the soil moist but not waterlogged, and prick out the seedlings and pot them on when they're large enough to handle. 

According to Thompson & Morgan, they should take between 18-20 weeks to mature and produce flowers.

Starting to plan your garden for the warmer seasons ahead? We've got just the thing you need. Subscribe to Amateur Gardening magazine and you will enjoy regular help and advice on how to get the most out of your garden. It means you'll never be short of ideas for your plot.

Amateur Gardening is the world’s oldest and most practical gardening magazine, offering a weekly fix of unrivalled practical advice. Every issue, our team of experts provide the best advice on what you should be doing in the garden that week, all written in plain English with clear step-by-step photographs.

And if it's planting tips you're after, Amateur Gardening’s plant profile feature stories explain everything you need to know about specific species. It will also show you the best varieties to grow and help you make the right choices for your plot.

So why not treat yourself to a brilliant weekly read packed with all the gardening advice you could need? What's more, if you subscribe to Amateur Gardening today, you can make a great saving with our spring offer!

7 reasons to subscribe to Amateur Gardening magazine

1. Whether you're just getting started in your own plot or want to improve your skills and knowledge, it’s packed with in-depth practical information and step-by-step guides to help make you a better gardener.
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3. Most weekly issues come with a free pack of seeds (UK subscribers only) worth at least £2, so you don’t even have to buy seeds!
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Tall flowers are ideal for when we want height in our gardens without the permanence of trees or shrubs – and there are many beautiful varieties to choose from.

A tall perennial may be just what’s needed as a centerpiece in an ‘island’ flower bed, or to bring vibrant color against a house wall. Or, perhaps you want to give your garden a little more privacy from the neighbors, in which case they can be planted to act as a screen. They can be used for brightening up patios, too – growing tall flowers in large pots is an excellent way to bring a small area to life. 

Whatever your desire, there are plenty of towering perennials out there with just the right dramatic vibes for you.

Our favorite tall flowers for backyard planting

Plant these lofty perennials in your yard and they will last for many years, after which most can be lifted, divided and replanted. And even when they aren’t blooming, their leaves can be lush and lavish, and can effectively turn a grungy area into your favorite part of the garden.

As always, it's best to check the flowers you choose aren't regarded as invasive plants in your area, before you add them to your backyard.

1. Giant viper’s bugloss

• Height: 12ft (3.7m)
• Hardiness: USDA 8-10 (UK H3)
• Where to plant: Full sun

This is a short-lived perennial that is a true giant. 

Over winter, there is a lowly rosette of leaves – which itself can get sizeable. But then, you’ll see the start of a flower spike. It’ll get taller, and taller, and from late spring, for many weeks, there’ll be blue, funnel-shaped flowers. 

A great plant for bees.

• Buy giant viper's bugloss in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

2. Giant fennel

• Height: Up to 13ft (4m)
• Hardiness: USDA 7-10 (UK H3)
• Where to plant: Full sun

This plant forms an attractive mound of dark green, finely-cut leaves. Then, in early summer, a mature plant will grow a sturdy system of branched stems, coming from a flower stalk as thick as a broomstick. 

These branches carrying giant flowerheads are made up of multiple umbels of tiny yellow flowers. A real spectacle.

3. Cardoon

• Height: Up to 10ft (3m)
• Hardiness: USDA 7-9 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun

Robust is the word for these tall flowers.

A clump of silvery-gray, spiny leaves, often more than 36in (90cm) in length, are accompanied by fat, thistle-like purple flowers in late summer and autumn. The flowers attract masses of bees.

The dead flowerheads can be left on the plants to provide additional interest in the winter garden. An old Victorian favorite.

• Buy cardoon in the UK: view at Crocus

4. Common rose mallow

• Height: Up to 8ft (2.5m)
• Hardiness: USDA 5-9 (UK H4)
• Where to plant: Full sun

In mid to late summer, the flowers of this woody-based perennial can be 10-12in (25-30cm) across. Depending on the cultivar, they can be pink, salmon, crimson-red or white, and similar shades. 

Plants in the ground will be hardy, but those growing in containers should be moved in winter to protect them from frost.

5. Plume poppy

• Height: Up to 8ft (2.5m)
• Hardiness: USDA 3-10 (UK H6)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

This vigorous, hardy perennial is mainly grown for its gorgeous, bold, gray-green leaves. They stand out all the more after rain, when they sparkle with moisture. 

In mid-summer, the plant produces huge flowerheads, comprising hundreds of tiny buff-colored blooms, held above the foliage.

6. Queen of the prairie

• Height: 6-8ft (1.2-2.4m)
• Hardiness: USDA 3-8 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

Queen of the prairie is a tall, upright perennial with attractive, branching, red stems. 

In summer it produces tight flower clusters of deep peach-pink flowers. Up close, each tiny flower is extremely pretty with long, protruding stamens. En masse, they become fluffy clouds of rosy candyfloss. 

‘Venusta’, pictured, is a cultivar with light pink flowers that's perfect for romantic cottage garden schemes.

7. Hollyhock

• Height: 5-8ft (1.5-2.5m)
• Hardiness: USDA 3-10 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

Many typical hollyhock varieties last just two years, making them biennials. Others last longer, making them short-lived perennials. 

These tall flowers come in a wide variety of bright colors, and they are available in single or double-cup blooms. Although they are cottage garden favorites, they do not look out of place in modern gardens, especially if you opt for ones with crisp white or deep purple blooms.

• Buy hollyhocks in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy hollyhocks in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

8. Delphinium elatum

• Height: 5-7ft (1.5-2.4m)
• Hardiness: USDA 3-7 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

Nothing quite beats the drama of delphiniums in the summer garden. Best known for their vivid blue spikes, they also come in mauve, pink, white and even red. 

The tallest cultivars are from the Pacific Giants strain, which includes ‘Galahad’ (all white), ‘King Arthur’ (reddish-purple) and ‘Black Knight’ (deep blue-purple).

• Buy delphinium elatum in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy delphinium elatum in the UK: view at Crocus

9. Foxglove ‘Suttons Apricot’

• Height: 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m)
• Hardiness: USDA 4-9 (UK H7)
• Where to plant: Dappled shade

One of the tallest foxglove varieties, it is best from late spring to mid-summer, with soaring spires of tiered, tubular flowers. 

They grade from the rosy pinks of the buds, to the pastel shades of the mature blooms – giving an overall appearance of apricot-pink. It’s ideal towards the back of a border.

• Buy foxglove 'Sutton's Apricot' in the UK: view at Crocus

10. Helianthus ‘Monarch’ 

• Height: 4-8ft (1.2-2.5m)
• Hardiness: USDA 7-11 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun

'Monarch' is a herbaceous perennial sunflower, with large, bright yellow, single to semi-double flowers from late summer to mid-fall. 

The petals are long, slender and pointed, radiating from a neatly domed, soft brown center. The upright stems are stiff, and carry longish, mid-green leaves. One for the back of the border. 

11. Miscanthus floridulus ‘Giganteus’

• Height: 10ft (3m)
• Hardiness: USDA 4-9 (UK H6)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

This is a vigorous, clump-forming, deciduous grass, with narrow leaves of dark green with pale, silvery midribs. The leaves turn yellow in autumn, fading to pale brown in winter. 

Pale pink feathery flower spikes enjoy particularly long, hot summers, then fade to bleached-silver. They remain on the plant over winter.

12. Panicum virgatum ‘Cloud Nine’ 

• Height: 6ft (1.8m)
• Hardiness: USDA 7-10 (UK H5)
• Where to plant: Full sun or part shade

Otherwise known as switch grass, this is an amazingly tall type of ornamental grass that forms an upright mound. It is arguably at its very best in the fall, when its bluish-green leaves turn golden.

Airy heads of tiny reddish-brown flowers appear in late summer – and these last well into the winter. It makes a good choice for the cutting garden, too, for large, ethereal arrangements.

Should my taller perennials be supported or staked?

Tall perennials, by their very nature, have evolved to be sturdy, upright plants, and are generally able to cope with what you might call ‘normal’ wind and rain. However, with buildings causing wind tunnels, and storms with strong winds and heavy rainfall becoming more frequent, it can be sensible to stake your more vulnerable plants. 

In particular, those plants with large flowers are most at risk. Ornamental grasses and echiums do not need staking.

When is the best time to stake tall perennials?

Always put plant supports in place in spring, before tall flowers have put on too much growth. The plants will then grow through the support and hide it from view. Later staking is difficult, as plant growth is more advanced and can easily be damaged. 

Don’t tie your plants in too tight – leave enough room for them to grow. As the plant gets taller, it may be necessary to continue tying in the stems, or raise the level of the used supports. 

What should I do if a stem snaps on my tall flowers?

Sometimes, emergency staking is necessary when branched stems or flower spikes have been badly bent. Snapped stems should be cut off cleanly; often they can be brought indoors for the vase. Depending on when this happens in the season, regrowth may follow.

Although it is too late to save a snapped stem, this is your sign to review the general supporting requirements in the border. Install makeshift supports as necessary, and without delay. This will stop plants from flopping over and smothering their neighbors, and should minimize further damage.

Learning how to propagate orchids is worthwhile if you're a fan of these exotic-looking plants. That way, you can increase your collection for free, or give the new baby plants away as thoughtful gifts.

Generally, the best approach to propagation depends on what type of orchid you're attempting to propagate. For monopodial orchids, for instance, their one vertical stem does well with stem-cutting propagation. Meanwhile, the sympodial orchids, with their horizontal rhizome stems, are better propagated by detaching and planting keikis (more on that later). Unlike many other houseplants, such as begonias or succulents, orchids usually can't be propagated with leaf cuttings.

Just like orchid care in general, the methods for making more of these elegant indoor plants aren't especially difficult – you just need some know-how before you start. 

How to propagate orchids by detaching and planting a keiki

Sometimes, a small plantlet appears on the orchid stem or flowering spike which sends roots into the air. This often happens with epiphytic orchids, especially phalaenopsis varieties. These plantlets are typically referred to as a keiki, and will be identical to the parent. 

If a keiki appears and looks healthy enough, with good aerial roots attached, you can plant it in a new pot. 

John Negus from Amateur Gardener suggests the following steps: 

1. To detach a keiki, wait until the roots are 2-3in (5-7cm). 
2. Remove it from the stem of the parent plant with a sharp, sterilized knife.
3. Set the plantlet in orchid compost, filled loosely to let air circulate around the roots.
4. Care for it as you would the parent plant, and spray finely with water until the plant becomes established.

'You can encourage moth orchids to produce keiki by applying "keiki paste" (a specialist hormone preparation) to the nodes on spent flower stems,' says the RHS. This is available to buy from Amazon, as well as in some garden centers.

How to propagate orchids from stem cuttings

Learning how to take cuttings from plants is a great way to get extra plants for free, and propagating orchids from stem cuttings is one of the most common options. 

Bear in mind that you don't use the thin part of the flower stem, but a part that has new growth or nodes on it. Wait until the orchid has finished flowering before making any cuts.

1. To propagate orchids from stem cuttings, select a length of stem that's between 10 and 12 inches in length, and cut it at the base with a sharp pair of secateurs or scissors.
2. Cut the piece of stem into a few smaller sections, making each around a couple of inches in length. Ensure that each section has a node on it.
3. Lay the sections of stem onto moist sphagnum moss.
4. Mist regularly to keep the moss damp, as this will allow roots to form. You can also cover the cuttings with a clear plastic bag to raise the humidity.
5. Once roots have formed, you can pot up the cuttings in orchid-friendly compost. 

Alternatively, you can cut off a side branch to pot up, once the aerial roots growing from it reach about 2.75in (7cm). 

How to propagate orchids by division

You can also propagate orchids by division. This simply means splitting up the plant by the roots, similarly to dividing perennials as you might already do outdoors. Doing so gives you one or two 'new' plants and can encourage more shoots to emerge. 

When choosing an orchid for division, make sure the plant has at least one new growth or node on the stem, and at least a few back bulbs – also called pseudobulbs – which still store water for the plant but no longer produce roots or flowers. These back bulbs will give the divided plants sufficient strength for flowering. 

When dividing an entire orchid plant, follow these steps: 

1. Carefully remove the orchid from its pot and remove as much of the soil as possible.
2. Choose a place to split the plant in two by examining the root structure. Often there's a natural division apparent on the plant where it will easily split, so try to follow this as best you can.
3. Making sure you have sharpened and cleaned your secateurs, cut through the roots, making sure each new section you create has at least three mature bulbs attached.
4. Follow the usual steps for how to repot an orchid for each section.

Can you grow orchids from seeds?

Though it's possible to grow orchids from seed, it's a difficult and time-consuming process. This involves waiting for the seed to germinate, raising the delicate seedlings, and slowly watching the plant grow. 

This usually takes around two years to show any leaf growth, and upwards of four to eight years for any blooms to appear. But, now you've learned how to propagate orchids using the methods above, you can add new plants to your indoor garden much more quickly.

Contemplating vegetables to plant in November? You may be thinking it’s a low-key time for sowing and planting – well, think again! The weather may be dipping, but plenty of crops actually prefer to burst forth in the heart of winter. Hearty traditional staples like spring cabbage bulk up quietly while all is calm and cool on the plot, while broad beans take advantage of the shorter crisp days to develop those essential root systems required to romp away as spring peeks round the corner. 

Mushrooms spring up from the cool, moist earth and quickly balloon out to deliver satisfying treats for seasonal fries and casseroles, while cold-hardy horseradish absorbs nutrients from the still depths and develops its spicy heat while other plants are chilling out. For anyone who spends most of spring in a permanent state of sowing undercover, it can make sense to steal a march now with select sowings of chili and basil. Not to mention the thrill of making your own tasty microgreens that develop in weeks, from fragrant pea shoots to tingly mizuna leaves. 

The key at this point in the vegetable planting calendar is to mix and match classic ‘slow-burn’ New Year favorites with easy (and exotic) wild cards. Play to the strengths of the season, and you’ll be amazed how much life you can still squeeze out of your garden. From luscious asparagus spears to the tangy baby-leaf Chinese toon tree, you’ll find plenty of inspiration here as the colder days and darker nights draw in…  

12 vegetables to plant in November for months of easy crops

Some of the most easy-going vegetables to sow now are also some of the most intriguing and adventurous additions to the kitchen garden, so there’s no reason to hide out in your shed, waiting for the new year to arrive. 

Asparagus, garlic, spring cabbage and horseradish are all better for being started while the cold weather is nipping at your nose. While some may take their time developing rich, earthy and (in some cases) fiery flavors, several crops here deliver quick nutritious treats. So, whether you’re looking to grow fleshy fungi, fancy spears or plants that taste like shellfish, our essential list of vegetables for November planting is sure to inspire you.

1. Garlic

Unless you’re an allium-phobe (that’s someone who’s afraid of garlic), there’s a strong chance garlic will be one of your key vegetables to plant in November. Gardeners have been known to make these pungent plantings in spring, but we urge you to get a head start now. Cloves need a sufficient chilling period to split and create heads – planting this month ensures this. Autumn planting also means you have a better run at healthier, bigger and more flavorful yields. 

‘The extra growing time encourages a more extensive root system to form, which in turn, gives more foliage to fuel large heads,’ says Amateur Gardening's fruit and veg expert Lucy Chamberlain. The key thing to remember when learning how to grow garlic is: don’t use supermarket cloves. Order from a garden center or seed supplier to be sure yours are disease-free. Choose from hardneck or softneck types, and stick to hardier varieties planted in well-draining soil. 

We recommend ‘Extra Early Wight’, ‘Picardy Wight’ and ‘Germidour’ for autumn plantings. Great companion plants for garlic include strawberries, nasturtiums, chamomile and dill. Garlic started now will mature earlier than spring counterparts – you can lift individual heads in early summer.

• Buy garlic in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy garlic in the UK: view at The Garlic Farm

2. Mizuna

Perfectly suited to the shorter days of early winter, zingy mizuna greens are some of the most rewarding, colorful and fast-growing crops to kick off in November. 

For anyone who loves growing lettuce in winter, these invigorating Japanese stalwarts are loaded with vitamins A, C and K, and perfectly at ease with the season’s challenging weather. Brassica rapa var. japonica is a refreshing firestarter that develops well in open spaces under cold frames or polytunnels, or undercover in a greenhouse border where you can readily access its peppery payload. 

Translating as ‘water greens’ (and also known as spider mustard), mizuna is one of the core ‘cut and come again’ crops that hits its savory peak in 40 days but can be enjoyed as baby greens three weeks from sowing. Well suited to the diminishing light sources of winter, mizuna manages perfectly well on three or four hours of sunlight a day. 

Sow in drills or pots 6in (15cm) deep, in well-draining compost or soil, then thin to 3in (8cm) spacings. Keep moderately watered to retain that zingy freshness. Pluck while young, or harvest when leaves are 4-5in (10-12cm) tall. Make sowings every three weeks for tasty pickings through to spring. Just feast on these tingly tenders before they flower, when they will become bitter. 

Tangy varieties include feathery ‘Kyona’, nippy ‘Kyoto’, frost-tolerant ‘Komatsuma’ and pretty ‘Purple Mizuna’. Often partnered with mibuna to accent those peppery flavors, it also works well with rocket, spinach, green-in-snow, claytonia and tatsoi. 

• Buy mizuna seeds in the US: view at Amazon 
• Buy mizuna seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

3. Horseradish

Homegrown horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is a great addition to your must-grow vegetables to plant in November. It may not be the most striking looker in your kitchen garden, but it’s one of the easiest vegetables to grow – and if you find a sunny site in well-drained soil, its needs are few. As part of the same family as mustard, it is memorably pungent and helpfully adept at clearing sinuses. 

Sold as bare roots (called thongs), horseradish is a rugged, cold-hardy perennial. It makes the most of this quiet time on the plot in order to get settled. Nestle the thongs horizontally in a seed tray of moist compost. Placed somewhere warm, green shoots will soon emerge from the top end. 

Horseradish is a natural pest and disease repellant and makes an excellent companion plant for potatoes. Whether you prefer the common type, with its big, crinkly leaves, or 'Bohemian', which is narrower and smoother, you can be sure of a crop a year after planting.   

Just one last bit of advice here: sink your horseradish plant in the ground contained within a large pot. The spreading roots of this hardy perennial will penetrate deeply and can be stubbornly persistent, so a pot will keep its invasive nature in check.

• Buy horseradish in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy horseradish in the UK: view at Amazon

4. Spring cabbage

Often referred to as the ‘daddy of brassicas’ or the ‘king of the greens’, cabbage keeps you covered all year round and is rarely deterred by dips in weather. Because of that, you can grow cabbage even in cooler months. So, if you had the foresight to sow seed in late summer, you can plant your young cabbages out in November. 

What sets spring cabbage varieties apart from others is that they tend to be leafier, looser, darker, sweeter and tender – not usually grown for the firm crunchy ‘hearts’ found later in the season. Thanks to this, they are often easier to grow and cultivate. 

Great varieties include AGM ‘Advantage F1’, sweet heritage ‘Durham Early’, steely blue ‘Duncan’, compact ‘Greensleeves’ and bolt-resistant ‘April’. ‘Winter Jewel F1’ has strong disease resistance, and ‘Spring Hero’ is a newer, crispier breed. Plant in an open, sunny spot with a fertile, well-draining soil. Walk over the ground to firm in as this helps to anchor your cabbages. Once transplanted, these leafy beasts work well as companion planting partners with beetroot to benefit flavors. Spring cabbage also grows well alongside onions and celery to deter pests, and you can intercrop with fast-maturing chives and lettuce later, as space permits. 

Main crops are ready to harvest from early March. Cut through the stem with a sharp knife just above ground level once they’ve developed a good sized head. You can also enjoy smaller greens before the main head develops. For a bonus crop, cut a cross in the stump and you’ll get several smaller cabbages weeks later.

• Buy spring cabbage seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy spring cabbage seeds in the UK: view at Suttons

5. Purple basil

You're no doubt familiar with the more traditional basils and have delighted in their bright, fresh green colors and cupped leaves. But if you’re looking for new vegetables to plant in November and you fancy finding out how to grow basil, why not broaden your horizons with some mauve-colored marvels instead?

Our top recommendation for newbies is ‘Dark Opal’, an intensely aromatic and glossy purple-black beauty, loaded with vitamins. It also produces pretty pink flowers in summer (pinch these back while you are growing the leaves for culinary purposes).

Sow indoors and keep as warm as you can. In summer, it will enjoy life outside in raised garden beds or a large container with spinach or tomatoes. Put near outdoor seating to deter mosquitoes. ‘Dark Opal’ leaves have an antibacterial agent that helps to treat stinging insect bites. If you’d like to explore other purple pleasures, try the frilly ‘Purple Ruffles’, sweet ‘Red Rubin’ or container-friendly ‘Bambino Purple’.

• Buy purple basil seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy purple basil seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

6. Broad beans

For anyone who can’t wait until spring to start off those next eagerly anticipated bundles of broad beans, the good news is you don’t have to. This bean is one of the key vegetables to plant in November, and you are encouraged to sow varieties now so they develop healthier root systems, which means more bountiful bean harvests. This month is the sweet spot for sowing winter-hardy beans: seedlings will be stronger, but compact enough to be sheltered from weather extremes. 

As Chris Bonnett of Gardening Express points out: ‘Broad beans are a particularly strong sowing option for November if you live in a milder region, especially if you have well-drained soil.’ Pick your variety wisely, though, as not all are suitable for autumn sowings. As a general rule, longpod varieties are the hardiest for overwintering. 

The classic broad bean variety to sow now is hardy ‘Aquadulce Claudia’: a reliable longpod that produces impressive yields from tall plants. Other excellent varieties include vigorous ‘Luz de Otono’, early-maturing ‘De Monica’, and ‘The Sutton’, perfect for containers and on exposed sites.

• Buy broad bean seeds in the UK: view at Mr Fothergill’s

7. Early chilies

You may be thinking the only thing to do with chilies at this time of year is overwinter the healthier varieties, or stare forlornly at those that appear to be turning up their toes. While breeds like ‘Naga Viper’ and ‘Trinidad Scorpion’ will appreciate being overwintered in a warm greenhouse or conservatory in November, it is also possible to grow chilies from seed now, as long as you select the right varieties. Choose a smaller hot variety such as sweet and pretty ‘Medusa’ or tangy dwarf scarlet F1 ‘Apache’ and make sure the spot you choose has plenty of natural sunlight and warmth to ensure a long and healthy season of growth.  

Early starts are recommended to develop the industrial-level levels of heat needed – and if you are looking to grow vegetables in pots, it couldn’t be simpler to start some chilis under glass in November. Growing them under cover in containers will help develop those intense kicks, and ensure you can enjoy extended harvests. Sow on the surface of small pots of seed compost, then keep these heat-seekers as warm as you can with a heated tray. Water by spraying the surface of the compost to prevent chills. Once plants are 6in (15cm) high, you can pot them on. If planting in the ground, good partners for chili include parsley, nasturtiums, basil, beans and peas. 

Once they fruit, water less and ramp up the sunshine. Chilies reward a long season of care, regular warmth, patient watering and a light seaweed feed with smoky, fruity flavors. For unforgettable feel-good perennials that pack a real punch, fire up the propagator and start these scorchers off now. 

• Buy chili seeds in the US: view at Burpee 
• Buy chili seeds in the UK: view at Crocus

8. Pea shoots

Light, fresh and loaded with nutrients, pea shoots are an absolute must if you’re looking for ideas for what to plant this month. They are some of the quickest to get out of the blocks as well – these fragrant, curly shoots are ready in weeks. Gardening enthusiasts looking to grow quick crops sow the seeds in a gutter pipe with great success – you don’t even need a garden as you can pick your harvests straight from the pipe. You can also grow pea shoots in a greenhouse or a cold frame.

If you like to grow peas for early harvests, you already know that top varieties to try include compact ‘Meteor’ and prolific ‘Feltham First’, as both have excellent winter hardiness. However, for shoots, ‘Twinkle’ is another great choice and has excellent downy mildew tolerance. If you want a quick and crispy vitamin boost, ‘Anubis’ produces shoots in three weeks, and you can enjoy a second picking a few weeks later. Partner with mint for an extra-cool seasonal winter salad combo.

• Buy pea shoot seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy pea shoot seeds in the UK: view at Suttons 

9. Asparagus

They say all good things come to those who wait, and they don’t come much better than the mighty asparagus. There’s something rather special about knowing how to grow asparagus, making this delicacy a heavyweight in our rundown. This point in the calendar is best for planting one-year-old dormant crowns in light, well-drained soils. You may have to wait two years for those tender spears, but it's worth it!  

There are lots of mouth-watering varieties to try. ‘Gijnlim’ is a pretty AGM cropper with bright green spears and deep purple tips, while ‘Pacific Purple’ is a vibrant, tender beauty, loaded with antioxidants. ‘Guelph Millennium’ is reliable in most soils and highly cold-tolerant. Heavy cropper ‘Jersey Knight’ is resistant to crown rot, rust and fusarium wilt, and ‘Mondeo’ is an all-male hybrid with excellent disease resistance. 

Harvesting lasts for four weeks the first time, but in subsequent years the harvest window goes up to eight weeks, guaranteeing a feast fit for the homegrowing king. Once the harvest window closes, treat the ground to a mulching and let plants rest until these succulent beauties rise again. 

• Buy asparagus crowns in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy asparagus crowns in the UK: view at Amazon

10. Beef and onion plant

It’s not often we get to sing the praises of a plant with leaves that taste of beef and onion crisps – but here it is! The Chinese Toon Tree (Toona sinensis) is a type of mahogany tree and sounds like the sort of thing that might take decades to cultivate. However, this plant can be grown as a baby leaf veg, so you can enjoy its flavors surprisingly quickly.

The beef and onion plant develops soft, savory leaves that work well in salads, so if you grow lettuce, this is the perfect accompaniment. This beefy charmer works well in chargrilled dishes as well as a garnish for meats. It can be parboiled or stir-fried, and is a popular crop in southeast Asian dishes. 

Plants can be grown on if given winter protection for the first two years. New growth can be harvested each spring. And who knows, with enough time you might wind up with a beautiful ornamental tree.

• Buy beef & onion plants in the US: view at Wanderlust Nursery

11. Oyster plant 

Also known as ‘sea mertensia’ or ‘sea bluebells’, this addition to our best vegetables to grow in November has long been found growing wild in seaside spots around the UK. It is one of the best coastal plants to grow, and is also one of the prettiest plants for rockeries if you have space. However, it is now gaining ground as a gourmet accompaniment to fish dishes and is heavenly eaten raw or cooked. 

With its delightfully salty, earthy tasting and fleshy blue-green leaves, the oyster plant (Mertensia maritima) is often called the ‘vegetarian’s oyster’. It is ideally suited to sandy, well-drained soils in partial sunshine. Sow into gritty compost in small pots and grow in a cold frame through winter. When they are large enough to handle, pot up into 6in (15cm) pots. Oyster plants don’t like being moved much, so bear this in mind and take care when transplanting in spring. 

Harvest your vegetarian oyster in the morning, when the leaves are at their most fragrant. Make sure you don’t harvest more than half the leaves as the plant needs a certain number to keep growing. 

• Buy oyster plant seeds in the UK: view at Nicky’s Nursery

12. Mushrooms

Mushrooms are a natural choice for the damper, darker nights of the season. These shade-loving plants thrive in situations and weather patterns that would flatten other plants at the tail end of the year. And you can enjoy a feast of fungi safely and easily, whether you want homegrown chestnuts, buttons, oysters or shiitakes on your chopping board. 

Home-growing kits have made it possible to produce your own fleshy treats on compost, logs, straw, coffee grounds and even paperback books (one you’re not bothered about hanging on to, that is!). If you’d like to take the plunge and learn how to grow mushrooms, it’s worth playing with different growing methods. Inoculated kits can yield at four weeks, while logs may take a few months to bear a harvest.  

Oyster mushrooms grown on paper and straw are a great entry-level option. Soak the inoculated material in water, bag it up, then wait for the white threads called mycelia to grow. Remove the bag, mist to keep it moist, and your mushroom bounty will quickly balloon into life.

• Buy mushroom kits in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy mushroom kits in the UK: view at Suttons

What else can I do on the vegetable plot in November?

• November is a good time to protect potted bay trees. This is especially important if they have been trained with a ‘lollipop’ shape, as exposed stems can be damaged by frost. If you are growing fruit in pots, you will know it is wise to move the likes of citrus plants to a sheltered spot, and this is true of bay trees. Lag the stems in bubble plastic and raise the base with pot feet so water drains away, preventing frost cracking pots. 
• If you grow figs, you'll know that these hardy heat-loving plants may need a bit of help late in the fall to ensure good harvests next year. If you are growing them as a fan against a sunny south- or west-facing wall, this minimizes exposure to chills and deep shade. However, trees in pots can be placed somewhere frost-free for winter. This means that you will see earlier and often prolonged harvests next year.
• It’s never too soon to think ahead to next year’s climbing crops. One of the best ways to get prepared is to stock up on tall, whippy stems that can be used as supports for peas and beans, as well as for building frames for brassicas. If you are after climbing plant support ideas then hazel and birch can work a treat. Cut as many bare, uniform lengths as you can and store them now to keep them at their best.
• Lift and divide rhubarb during dormancy to ensure you keep plants at their best. Healthy clumps yield for years, so if you are growing rhubarb check for congestion (look out for thin stems or flower spikes). Discard rotten roots and congested central parts of the clump, retaining the outer sections. Slice the clumps into divisions. Replant at the same depth as before in a new site, improved with plenty of organic matter.

Barberry shrubs, otherwise known as berberis, are easy-to-grow, small or medium-sized, and thorny. They can be deciduous or evergreen and grow naturally across northern Europe, northern Asia and also South America.

The foliage of these low-maintenance shrubs is usually small and rounded or oval in shape, and the leaves of deciduous varieties often change to fiery fall colors. Short, sharp spines develop at the leaf joints, often in threes. The wood of barberry branches and twigs is a distinctive yellow color.

The small flowers, usually yellow or orange, appear in clusters in spring which can create a colorful display. In many varieties, they are followed by small, egg-shaped berries that tend to be dark blue, black or red. Even an isolated plant will often produce a prolific crop of them.

'As ornamental shrubs, the barberries have many good qualities and several of them are in the very first rank of garden plants. They prefer warm, loamy soil, but are by no means fastidious,' says the international experts at Trees and Shrubs Online.

Barberry key facts:

• Plant type: Deciduous and evergreen shrubs
• Mature size: 2-10ft (60cm-3m)
• Soil type: Any that is not parched or swampy
• Soil pH: Any
• Time of year to plant: Spring, fall
• Flowering time of year: Spring
• Flower color: Yellow, gold, orange
• Hardiness zones: USDA 4-7 (UK H5-7)
• Scientific name: Berberis
• Common name: Barberry

What are the two main types of barberry?

Deciduous barberry plants make twiggy and very thorny shrubs that are grown for their colorful spring flowers, often carried on bare branches; for their red berries; and for their colored or variegated foliage which often develops red or yellow fall color.

Most of the deciduous barberries grown are varieties of Berberis thunbergii (Japanese barberry). These are one of the most adaptable and cold-hardy of all deciduous shrubs. The flowers are yellow and tinted in red. The berries are bright red and the foliage may be green, reddish-purple, or golden yellow and is sometimes speckled or edged in yellow or white. Fall foliage color is brilliantly fiery.

The evergreen shrub varieties tend to be dense, well-branched, and less hardy. Berberis darwinii is the most widely grown, with thorny leaves and twigs. The bright orange spring flowers open in drooping clusters over a long period before maturing into rounded, plum-colored fruits.

How to plant barberry shrubs

'Berberis are generally of easy cultivation, thriving in sun or shade and in almost any soil that is not waterlogged,' says The Royal Horticultural Society.

Barberries are unusual in thriving in full sun and also in the shade of deciduous trees, although they develop better leaf color in at least some sunshine. Beware, though, that yellow-leaved varieties may scorch in full sun, especially in dry periods.

Any soil that is not permanently wet suits barberries. They grow well in soils that are not strongly fertile, but in poor conditions, they may not branch well and develop a thin look.

No special planting technique is needed, though beware of the thorns when handling the plants – gardening gloves are a must (Amazon has a wide range). Spring and fall are the best times to plant them.

They are well-suited to mixed borders, in flower beds, as edging plants, or as foundation planting. Taller varieties make good multi-season specimens. Due to the thorns, keep them away from your garden paths.

How to care for barberries

In general, barberries need little special care.

If larger types get out of hand, they can be pruned back in spring after flowering. Pruning the shrubs at this time of year will also encourage a good floral display the following year. The problem is that pruning after flowering can remove all the growth that carries the colorful berries.

The solution, then, is to prune after flowering, but not by clipping over the whole plant. Instead, select two or three of the longest branches and prune them back by about half, cutting just above a healthy side branch. Pruning in this way will prompt new growth from lower down on the plant, but without sacrificing the fall fruiting display.

Occasional trimming may also be needed to maintain the shape of smaller varieties that grow in pillars or balls, but they usually keep their shape well unless damaged. If your barberry bush needs dramatic renovation, cut it back to 12in (30cm) in late winter.

Other than that, mulching in fall will prevent weed development and also help keep the roots moist, which will lead to richer growth and more prolific berry production.

How to make more barberry plants

Most barberries are not easy to propagate. They can be rooted from plant cuttings, but the success rate tends to be low. It is, however, possible to bend branches of larger varieties down to the ground and weigh them with a brick or rock to keep the branch in contact with the soil – roots should slowly develop.

Japanese barberry, and some other varieties, sometimes spread a little at the base and, in early spring, it can be possible to detach a piece with twigs and roots and re-plant it elsewhere. This is the way to go if you only need one or two extra plants.

Barberries can also be raised from seeds. You may well find seedlings of Japanese barberry coming up in your borders as a result of birds eating the berries and then excreting the seeds. This is how barberry becomes invasive in some areas. However, seedlings are rarely the same as the parent.

Solving common problems with barberries

The main problem with barberry plants – Japanese barberry in particular – is their tendency to spread to parts of the garden (and outside the garden) where they are not wanted. So, do not plant them in areas where they are banned or not recommended.

Powdery mildew is the main disease problem. The dusty white coating on the leaves is usually only seen in hot, dry conditions, so keeping the roots moist is a big help.

Sawfly larvae – white grubs with black and yellow spots – eat barberry foliage and are becoming an increasingly serious problem. They can be picked off by hand or sprayed with an organic pesticide.

There can also be a problem with some golden-leaved varieties due to the shoot tips burning in hot sun. Planting in partial shade is one approach, but there are also some recently-introduced varieties that are burn-resistant. These include 'Sunjoy® Gold Pillar' (‘Maria’) – available at Nature Hills, and 'Sunjoy® Citrus' (‘Koren’), also at Nature Hills.

How to choose barberries for your backyard

Deciduous barberries are among the most reliable and attractive shrubs. As you think about planting them, there are three features to consider: shape, color, and size.

Barberries vary in shape, from almost spherical to conventionally bushy or narrow and upright. 

The small, rounded leaves also range in color from dull green through to many rich reddish-purple tones to orange and yellow, plus variegated types. 

Then there’s plant size, from very small and neat to big and bushy. ‘Golden Ring’ (purple leaves, edged gold; bushy), ‘Golden Treasure’ (yellow leaves; tight and rounded), ‘Helmond Pillar’ (purple leaves, very upright) and ‘Rose Glow’ (purple leaves, mottled silver; bushy – available at PlantingTree.com) are especially good if you're looking for hedging plants.

Evergreen barberries are less frost tolerant than deciduous varieties. But, where the climate allows, Berberis darwinii makes a colorfully-prolific plant with masses of orange flowers.

Are barberries fast growing?

Some varieties of barberry are fast-growing shrubs, yet some are very slow. The fastest varieties, evergreen or deciduous, reach about 6-8ft (2-2.5m) in ten years.

In evergreens, Berberis darwinii is one of the most vigorous, with tiny holly-like leaves and a dramatic show of red-tinted yellow flowers in spring. Berberis julianae also grows strongly and is one of the tallest: it has bright, glossy leaves but is exceptionally thorny. Even more vigorous, though a little less vicious, is Berberis x stenophylla with very dark, slender leaves and showy, fragrant, yellow spring flowers.

In deciduous barberries, the old-favorite Berberis thunbergii ‘Atropurpurea’ has exceptional vigor, rich purple foliage, yellow spring flowers and red fall berries. But bear in mind that a large plant can produce far too many self-sown seedlings, which then have to be pulled out.

What height do barberries grow to?

Barberries vary in their final height at maturity, from plants little more than knee-high that are good for small gardens, to plants way over head-high.

For a genuine dwarf variety that will rarely grow more than about knee-high, try ‘Crimson Pygmy’ (deep red) or ‘Tiny Gold’ (yellow). Maturing a little taller, at about waist height, there is ‘Helmond Pillar’ (purple, upright habit) and ‘Admiration’ (purple, golden edge). At head height, consider ‘Harlequin’ (purple, mottled pink) or ‘Aurea’ (golden yellow).

For really tall varieties, try dark-leaved deciduous ‘Superba’, ‘Atropurpurea’, or the orange-flowered evergreen Berberis darwinii.

Are barberries deer resistant?

Yes, berberis are deer-resistant plants. This is one reason that they are invasive in some parts of the country. The deer eat many of the native shrubs, but not barberries, so the barberry has plenty of space into which it can spread.

The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a program in which they consult a wide range of landscape professionals, horticulturalists, designers and researchers to identify the garden plants that deer prefer to eat – and those that they do not. They rate barberry as 'Rarely damaged', the top rating out of four for deer resistance.

Are barberries invasive?

Yes, in some regions, barberry is an invasive plant. The experts at Invasive.org point out: 'Japanese barberry occurs and is reported to be invasive throughout the northeastern U.S from Maine to North Carolina and west to Wisconsin and Missouri.' It can also be a problem in some parts of southern Ontario, Quebec and Nova Scotia. 

It grows well in conditions from full sun to deep shade and can form dense thickets which, although generally only reaching around 2-5ft (60cm-1.5m) high, are impenetrable owing to the tangle of dangerously thorny growth. It develops in a wide variety of habitats including forests, open woodlands, fields and scrub.

Recently, however, varieties have been developed that produce no seeds at all, and these are just starting to come onto the market. Look out for the WorryFree® Series.

How to buy barberries

First, find out if barberries are cited as invasive in your area. Your local cooperative extension service and local nurseries can provide advice. Do not consider buying Japanese barberry if it causes problems in your area. Awareness of the problems that barberries cause, in the northeast, in particular, has led to many garden centers and other retail outlets only offering them if they are safe to plant in the area.

Most barberries have attractive foliage that appeals over many months so, in garden centers, they are offered from spring to fall, in gallon pots or larger.

As is usually the case, mail-order suppliers offer a wider range, from small plants in tubes to larger plants in gallons or up to three gallons. Plants in tubes are the most economical option, especially as shipping costs are less.

Where to buy barberry plants

If you'd like to grow a barberry bush in your backyard, our roundup of quicklinks will help start your search.

Where to buy barberry plants in the US

• Buy barberry plants at Nature Hills
• Buy barberry plants at Amazon
• Buy barberry plants at Plants By Mail
• Buy barberry plants at Planting Tree
• Buy barberry plants at Monrovia
• Buy barberry plants at Wilson Brothers

Where to buy barberry plants in the UK

• Buy barberry plants at Crocus
• Buy barberry plants at Amazon
• Buy barberry plants at Dobies
• Buy barberry plants at Suttons
• Buy barberry plants at Ashwood Nurseries
• Buy barberry plants at Burncoose Nurseries

There are some common rhododendron problems to look out for when growing these spring-flowering beauties. 

They are generally quite low-maintenance shrubs. However, as with all plants, pests, diseases, and adverse environmental conditions can all take their toll. But, knowing how to identify issues early – or even prevent them from happening in the first place – gives your shrubs a better chance at staying happy and healthy.

These tips will help, so you can keep enjoying your rhododendron for as long as possible in your backyard.

3 rhododendron problems to keep a lookout for

Help your shrubs thrive by avoiding these common rhododendron problems.

1. Pest problems for rhododendrons

If you've noticed black sooty mold all over your rhododendron's leaves, then scale insects are likely to blame. 

'Unfortunately, these tiny creatures, characterized by pronounced white lozenges, exude honeydew (a kind of syrup) which attracts the sooty mold,' explains the Amateur Gardening team. 'This then blackens and weakens the leaves.'

You can overcome the bugs by spraying your shrubs with a pesticide, such as Bio Provado Ultimate Bug Killer (available on Amazon). When they are dead, and not releasing honeydew, the sooty mold will cease infecting your plant, the experts continue. You can then wipe it away with a soft cloth soaked in water or milk – there are no fungicides against it.

Another common pest problem for rhododendrons is vine weevils, which can cause sudden death in the plants. 

The tiny, curled, dirty-white grubs with brown heads eat the roots. They can be particularly problematic in container gardens.

If your pot-grown rhododendron has suddenly died, despite being sufficiently watered, lift the plant from the container and check for the larvae. 'If there are any, bin the compost as it would be unwise to dig it into borders contaminated by weevil grubs,' says John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening.

You can try to control these bugs with a vine weevil trap, placing it close to your shrub, John adds. These consist of a specially designed, grooved board filled with a gel that's impregnated with nematodes, he explains. The adult beetles crawl into the grooves by day where the nematodes infect and kill them without harming anything else. Ideally, set traps between early summer and early fall.

2. Too much or too little water

If you've noticed the leaves on your rhododendron turning yellow and dropping off the plant, a period of drought over summer and early autumn could be to blame. 'This can easily happen to container plants and azaleas and rhododendrons are particularly susceptible,' says John.

'Each year, apply a leaf mold mulch, composted bracken or pulverized conifer bark to help trap precious moisture. Don’t let the soil dry out in summer by watering thoroughly and regularly.' Using collected rainwater from the garden is best.

Conversely, yellow leaves can also be caused by waterlogged soil, either from over-exuberance with the watering can or wet weather. If it's the latter, and your shrub is in a container, ensure the drainage holes are unblocked and raise the pot up onto feet to help any trapped water escape. Adding grit to the compost when you plant can also help with drainage.

Remember, also, that these shrubs do best in acidic soil types. So, if yours looks like it's struggling, you may need to transplant it somewhere more suitable and feed it monthly when flowering with an ericaceous 
food. Liquid-feeding 
it monthly with a seaweed fertilizer from mid-spring to early fall can also help reinvigorate it, says John.

3. Honey fungus and other rhododendron diseases

If the leaves and flowers of your rhododendron are dying before they are opening, the problem could be honey fungus – a fungal disease. 'Check for honey fungus by exposing a largish root and peeling back 1in (2½cm) or so of bark,' advises John. 'If white mold is visible, this disease is responsible.'

Alternatively, the problem could be root death. The only way you can tell is by cutting a 
root in half. If the center of the root is black and dead, root death is 
the culprit, he says.

Sudden oak 
death, which also affects rhododendrons, can cause leaves and shoots to 
wilt and die, too. 'Sadly there are no cures for the above problems,' John says. 'If symptoms persist and there is 
no new growth you will, I am afraid, have to remove the bush – roots and all.'

Powdery mildew, however, is thankfully one of the rhododendron problems that isn't as troublesome. It's identified by pale green, reddish-purple or yellow patches on the upper surface of the foliage in evergreen rhododendrons (or white, powdery patches on deciduous varieties), says the RHS. Unless severe, it can generally be tolerated, they add. If needs be, you can apply a fungicide, such as Fungus Clear Ultra, available on Amazon, to tackle it.

Learning how to protect plants from frost is a must if you're expecting colder weather this winter. 

Some plants are hardy (and many of these bring welcome color and form to the winter garden). However, other, tender species will quickly freeze and die when it gets too cold – whether in pots or in the ground. 

Being prepared and providing protection before this happens means you can keep these plants healthy and happy throughout the season. That way, you can enjoy them at their best once warmer weather arrives, rather than splashing out on replacements.

6 tips on how to protect plants from frost

These simple steps will help keep your plants safe from the winter chill.

1. Lift and store summer bulbs for winter

You can lift and store dahlia tubers, canna lilies, gladiolus, and other tender bulbs out of their pots and borders once the greenery has died down in late fall. These can then wait out the winter in a frost-free shed or garage, until it's time to replant them in spring.

In prolonged periods of cold, it may be useful to cover the boxes you store them in with an old blanket or fleece for extra insulation. Remember to check over them periodically for signs of rot, and discard any affected.

And, if frosts are forecast when your daffodils, tulips, and other spring favorites are already flowering, there are ways you can protect these bulbs from frost to help them survive, too.

2. Place your plants in a greenhouse or cold frame

There are some wonderful winter planter ideas that will brighten up a patio. But, not all container plants will withstand the cold, so will need protection if they are to survive the season.

If you have a cold frame (there are plenty available on Amazon) or a greenhouse, stand potted plants inside. If you don't, think about getting one – even if it's just a mini greenhouse – as they are invaluable.

'Unless you plan to add heating to your greenhouse, it will be regarded as "cold" in any description you read about greenhouse gardening,' says John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening magazine. 'However, it can still keep overnight temperatures as much as 41°F/5°C warmer than outside, which will keep plants frost-free in all 
but the worst of winters.

'However, I would always keep some horticultural fleece to hand to drape over plants on the coldest nights,' he adds.

The base of each pot should be off the ground, so you might need to use pot feet to raise them up. If there isn't enough space, lay them on their sides. It's important that the compost dries out and remains largely dry throughout the cold, dormant period, so avoid watering until spring.

On warmer days, ventilate your cold frame or greenhouse, but remember to close up before dark.

3. Use a garden wall to your advantage

If you don't have a cold frame or a greenhouse, you can still protect your container garden by arranging all your pots together against a sheltered wall of your house. The heating inside warms the exterior wall just a little, plus the wall offers support on windy days. 

As with pots in greenhouses, lift each off the ground – with pot feet, for instance – to ensure good drainage.

Bear in mind that compost in pots is more vulnerable to cold than the soil of the garden, says John. Wrapping the pots in fleece, sacking, bubblewrap or even thick newspaper should keep them warmer. 'However, don’t cover the compost at the top of the pot, or the base, as the compost needs to breathe and drain,' he warns.

Wrapping the heads or stems of larger plants with fleece when frost is forecast will keep a degree or two of frost off, just remember to remove the fleece during the day. This can also help to protect your plants from snow.

4. Cover veg patches with fleece

A layer of horticultural fleece – available on Amazon – can be effective at keeping some of the frost off a vegetable garden. That is, as long as it was in place before the frosts arrived – so add it to your list of jobs when you're preparing the garden for winter. 

Keep it raised above the plants with hoops to encourage air circulation, and peg or weigh the sides down so it doesn't blow away in the wind. The covers can be lifted on warm, sunny days.

If fleece is laid over already-frosted soil, it is unlikely to have an impact on warming it up, says John. In fact, it might even hold the frost in the soil for a bit longer – acting like a blanket and trapping the cold air in. If you have plants in your veg bed that might benefit from some protection, and frosts have already hit, it's still worth laying some fleece, though. But, wait until they have defrosted first, or have been warmed a bit in the sun.

For smaller plants and seedlings, you may wish to invest in glass cloches, which have a traditional charm. Just remember to prop them up with a small stone during the day to prevent too much moisture and heat from building up inside. Alternatively, these durable PVC ones from Amazon have adjustable vents on top for ease.

5. Mulch your borders

The best time for mulching your flower borders is in late fall, says John, before the soil hardens with frost. 'The mulch you apply now, which should be around 4in (10cm) thick, will help to insulate roots and crown buds from penetrating frost.'

This isn't the only benefit of mulching. 'Worms will incorporate whatever you are using – composted manure or well-rotted garden compost – to increase the depth of top soil and make it easier to cultivate plants and remove weeds,' John continues.

In milder regions, such as the south of England, some gardeners have success with mulching heavily over their summer-flowering bulbs instead of lifting them.

6. Don't plant tender bedding out too soon

If you've started off tender plants indoors (such as chrysanthemums, petunias, and many other bedding plants), only plant them out into the garden when you're certain all risks of frosts have passed. 

In some regions, this can be as late as early summer. Do remember to harden them off first, though, which will help get them used to the change in environment.

How do you protect tropical plants from frost?

Many tropical plants, such as tree ferns, banana palms and cordylines, will struggle in cold weather and may need extra protection from frost. 

One way to do so is to wrap them in a fleece jacket packed with straw. Tree ferns have a vulnerable crown that will need a protective layer, while the leaves of cordylines should be wrapped together to prevent water from collecting at the base and causing rot. 

Succulents need to go under cover, too, unless you're lucky enough to have a slightly milder climate. You can also apply a thick mulch of leaves or compost to the roots of exotics to protect them.

Do you need some advice on the best approach to lawn care for winter? We're here to help.

Seasonal lawn care is important all year round, and the coldest months are no exception. It's true that growth tends to slow down, meaning there's less (if any) mowing involved. However, there are other things to do to keep your lawn in tip-top condition.

With help from the experts, we've rounded up an easy guide to ensure your lawn looks lush, green and glorious when warmer weather returns.

6 top tips for lawn care for winter

Follow these simple tips on lawn care for winter and you can help protect your grass throughout the season.

1. Avoid walking on your lawn

'The greatest difficulty with winter lawn care is that while there are jobs that you can do, your green carpet won’t take kindly to being walked on,' says Ruth Hayes, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 

Walking on the grass when it's wet can cause muddy patches where moss and weeds can take root. And, walking on a frosted lawn can damage the grass.

'Where possible, walk on the lawn as little as possible and only on days when the grass has had the chance to dry and conditions are mild,' she suggests.

If you need to cross your lawn regularly to get around your garden, consider laying stepping stones to get from A to B to help protect it. The RHS explains how you can lay them at a low-enough level so that they won't interfere with mowing.

2. Clear up fallen debris

Carlos Real, a lawn care expert and the Managing Director of TotalLawn, comments on the importance of keeping your lawn clear over winter.

Whether it’s leaves, heavy branches or gardening equipment, you want to remove it quickly before the cold sets in, he says. 'If you leave anything heavy on your lawn over winter, you are running the risk of your soil compacting, which puts it at risk of waterlogging and developing diseases.'

Clearing up leaves will also help your lawn get the air and light it needs for healthy growth, he adds. Amanda Kincaid of STIGA agrees: 'Leaves on the lawn aren’t just untidy and they don’t just create slow-growing patches of grass,' she says. 'They can actually kill your grass, by encouraging our worst known lawn disease, fusarium. Fusarium is a fungal disease that comes to the fore in winter, and fallen leaves can create a damp, warm environment that is perfect for it to flourish. Good healthy lawn care practice is the key to discouraging this disease, but the most important thing you can do is to remove those fallen leaves.

'A good leaf blower is just the ticket and you can even buy blowers that also suck and shred unwanted leaves. Battery options are quieter and cleaner for the environment.' Amazon has plenty of leaf blowers to choose from, but if you're looking for a design that works as a blower and vacuum in one, the Greenworks 40V Brushless Cordless Blower/Vacuum from Amazon is worth a look. 

On the topic of fallen leaves, it can be beneficial to give any trees on your lawn a trim, too, particularly if they have low-hanging branches. Ruth, for instance, prunes back her weeping ornamental pear tree on a mild winter day, then aerates the grass around it after clearing away the last of the leaves. This way, more light and air can get through the branches to the lawn, again, reducing the risk of soil compaction and damp and fungal problems.

3. Be mindful of mowing

Once winter comes along, many people think that mowing a lawn isn't necessary at all – but this isn't always the case. 

'Mowing your lawn during winter can be a minefield,' says David Hedges Gower, the Chairman of the Lawn Association. 'What should we do? What shouldn’t we do?' And when is the last time to mow your lawn before winter?

'A healthy lawn that is draining well will naturally be warmer and able to take advantage of warmer weather, so if it keeps on growing, then don’t stop mowing,' he says. He explains that cutting the lawn at a higher-than-normal level in winter not only helps the plant to continue to grow, but also means it can hold less moisture in the leaf, which is important for disease control. 'A good tip is to remove that "morning dew" with a battery blower or even a broom and your lawn will be dry and ready to cut,' he adds.

Ruth shares her tips for winter mowing, too. She explains that grass will continue to grow in temperatures of 41˚F/5˚C and higher – so you may not be able to retire your lawn mower for the whole winter.

'Only cut the grass on dry days when there is no frost, nor heavy frost forecast,' she says. In terms of how short you should cut it, she agrees with David. 'Raise the blades to their highest setting, so grass is just trimmed and the soil underneath isn’t damaged.'

Ruth also suggests cleaning your mower well after use and getting it serviced if there is time.

4. Watch out for waterlogging

‘Areas that get a lot of traffic are likely to be compacted underneath, causing muddy spots and soggy, waterlogged soil,' says Ruth. Waterlogged soil can also lead to the development of algae and slime mold. 

As well as laying a stepping stone path, as mentioned above, you can help remedy the problem by aerating the lawn with a border fork (we like the look of this Spear & Jackson one from Amazon). Choose a dry, mild day, and simply plunge the fork into the ground a couple of inches (5cm) deep, and give it a wiggle, Ruth advises. 'This will open up the soil, letting air in around the grass roots and helping water soak away.'

If the problem is more severe, you may need to look into more intensive garden drainage solutions.

5. Keep an eye out for winter wildlife 

Don't forget about pests when planning your lawn care for winter.

Worm castings are a common problem this season – unsightly coils of soil and mucus excreted by worms that appear on the surface of lawns. If trodden on, they can become a breeding ground for weeds and moss, Ruth warns. 'Avoid walking on them and once they have dried, sweep them away with a brush or broom or the upturned head of a rake.

'Even more of a problem are molehills, which have been popping up in our lawn and flower beds in late winter and early spring,' she continues. They are incredibly annoying but luckily, there are a few ways to get rid of moles in the garden. Ruth uses Defenders’ Mole Scatter Granules [available on Amazon] and is also trying out a solar-powered sonic repellent. 

6. Repair lawn patches with new turf

Towards the end of winter, when temperatures are milder and the soil is less likely to be wet or frosty, you can carry out any lawn maintenance work that needs doing. 

The RHS says that you can lay turf at this time (whether you're making a new grassy area or repairing lawn patches). But, it's best to work from planks, they add. That way, you'll be less likely to compact the soil. 

Now is also a good time to repair any bumps or hollows in your lawn by peeling back sections and either flattening the soil or adding loam to bulk it up, they add.

When cooler weather is on the way, it's time to consider how and when to plant tulip bulbs – one of the best spring flowers out there.

With their glossy petals and vibrant colors, tulips bring so much to the garden. These wonderfully versatile plants are happy in both pots and borders. And, some can even be naturalized in lawns and rockeries to create a stunning display alongside snowdrops, narcissi and other spring delights. When it comes to planting bulbs, tulips should definitely be on your list this fall.

To help you get started, we've brought together tons of top tips on when and how to plant tulip bulbs, including advice for container growing and what to do with them when they've finished flowering.

When to plant tulip bulbs

First of all, you'll need to know when to plant tulip bulbs. 

You will see tulip bulbs on sale online at the likes of Amazon, as well as in supermarkets and garden centers, from early fall. But, the best time to plant them out is later in the season, or even in early winter. If you've already learned how to plant daffodil bulbs, you might think this is quite late. It's true that tulips are planted later than other spring bulbs, and there is a good reason for it.

Tulip bulbs go in later as this helps guard them against a disease called tulip fire (also known as tulip blight). Tulip fire rots the bulbs and causes the leaves to develop a twisted, scorched look.

Gardening expert Monty Don considers November as the ideal tulip-planting time for the UK. 'This is, to my mind, the most important and best job of the month,' he says. 'It is actually something that can be done at any time between now and Christmas, although the earlier they get into the ground, the earlier they will flower.'

It's absolutely fine to buy the types of tulips you want as soon as you see them each year (you don't want to miss out on the perfect buy, after all). But, if it's still a bit early to plant them, store them in a cool, dark place until it's time.

How do you plant tulip bulbs in pots?

Tulips are a perfect choice if you're planning a spring container. There is nothing like a bright display of them at the front of the house or on a patio before the summer blooms have sprung into life.

1. Pick a container with plenty of drainage holes in the bottom.
2. Use a multi-purpose compost with a couple of handfuls of horticultural grit. 'Work 4oz (112g) per m2 of bone meal into the compost,' suggests John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 'This breaks down into root-promoting phosphates that will nourish growth in spring.' 
3. Wearing gardening gloves (tulip bulbs can irritate the skin), plant the bulbs twice their own depth, and around one bulb's width apart – they should never be touching. A generously-planted pot will create more impact.
4. If the weather is dry, water the pots until just moist.

You can plant them by themselves, or in a bulb lasagne with other, smaller bulb plants, says the Amateur Gardening experts. 'This will provide a range of heights, colors and floral interest to last throughout the spring.'

How do you plant tulip bulbs in the ground?

Tulips look wonderful in flower beds, both en masse and tucked alongside perennials and other spring bulbs.

1. 'Plant bulbs in good, well-drained, neutral to alkaline soil in a sunny position,' advises Anne Swithinbank, a gardening expert of Amateur Gardening. They dislike heavy soil that is very wet as it encourages rotting, so if your soil is like this, dig in lots of well-rotted organic matter or coarse gravel before planting.
2. Planting in groups will create more impact. Aim for at least six or seven, more if you have the space, to create a drift of color. You can plant each bulb as closely as 2in (around 5cm) apart. However, Anne prefers to enjoy individual blooms in their own space rather than going for a 'coloring in' effect. She advises planting them at least 4in (10cm) apart, but preferably 6in (15cm) or more. Choose whichever style you prefer, just remember to wear gloves when handling the bulbs to avoid skin irritation.
3. A bulb planter tool, available on Amazon, is useful if you are putting tulips into a grassy area. It works like an apple corer, removing a neat plug from the ground. Alternatively, dig larger holes in your flower beds to plant your bulbs in clusters. Plant each bulb three times its own depth – 'This protects from cold and helps them enjoy moisture during spring,' explains Anne. If you're planning for them to be permanent rather than digging them up after they have flowered, Monty Don advises planting tulip bulbs as deep as you can. 'I'll often use a crowbar to make a hole 12 inches or more deep – and the deeper they are the stronger and straighter the stem will be,' he says. 
4. Make sure you plant them the right way around, with the pointed side facing upwards.
5. Cover the planted bulbs with gritty soil and water lightly if the ground is dry.

Should you soak tulip bulbs before planting them?

Some gardeners choose to soak some of their spring bulbs – particularly anemones – in water for a few hours before planting. However, this isn't really necessary when planting tulips – in fact, it can encourage the bulbs to rot. 

If the soil feels dry, you can always lightly water over the area once they're planted, just avoid overdoing it and waterlogging the soil.

When do tulips flower?

Some tulips flower in mid-spring and some in late spring, so it is worth checking the packaging to establish exactly when they will appear. 

Early bloomers include ‘Foxtrot’, which is a double-flowered delight in candy floss pink that's great for pots. You could also try 'Orange Emperor', which has large, tangerine-colored petals. It's one of the earliest flowering of them all. If you're looking for other early spring flowers, it's worth learning how to plant crocus bulbs, too.

Tulips that bloom later in the season include the graceful, all-white 'Mount Tacoma' (a double bloomer); 'Blue Heron', which has dramatic, fringed petals in a deep purple with paler edges; and 'West Point' – a bright yellow, lily-flowered variety.

What are some common pest problems for tulips?

Squirrels are prone to digging up bulbs, as are some other small pests. Put preventative measures in after you've planted your tulips to deter them, such as covering pots with hardware cloth.

If you're planting your bulbs in pots, you can also discourage slugs by adding a layer of horticultural grit on top of the soil. It looks smart, too. 

Aphids can also be a nuisance, but there are plenty of ways to deter them.

Should you feed tulips?

Fertilizing plants is useful for giving them a boost. If you feed tulips, it will encourage strong growth and flowering the following year, so it's worth doing if you plan to keep the bulbs.

According to the RHS, it's best to feed tulip bulbs once they are in growth in spring. Do so weekly, with a potassium-rich liquid fertilizer – the type you'd use to feed tomatoes. Stop fertilizing the plants once the leaves have yellowed and died back.

Can you 'force' tulip bulbs indoors?

Most people think of hyacinths or daffodils as prime picks for indoor bulb forcing. However, you can try the technique with tulip bulbs, too, for early blooms that'll brighten up your home.

Some varieties are better than others for this; generally the 'Species', 'Early' and 'Triumph' types. The RHS recommends trying Single Early 'Apricot Beauty' which has peachy-colored, cup-shaped flowers, or 'Attila', a Triumph tulip in a reddish-purple tone.

1. Start by buying your bulbs in early fall and putting them somewhere cold but frost-free for around 12 weeks, such as in a garage or cold frame.
2. Then, while wearing gloves, plant them in pots, adding plenty of grit to the soil. Water lightly, cover them with a black bin bag, and put them somewhere dark and cool for six weeks or so. Check on them periodically, watering if the soil feels dry.
3. When you see green shoots appearing, remove the cover and place them somewhere bright and warm where they will flower after around three weeks.

For a more unique look, you can try growing your tulip bulbs in special bulb forcing vases (available on Amazon) instead, which don't require compost. Just ensure that the water in the bottom doesn't touch the bulb.

What should you do with tulip bulbs after they've finished flowering?

'Whereas daffodils suit our [UK] climate and naturalize well (returning to flower and bulking up year after year), tulips are another story,' says Anne Swithinbank of Amateur Gardening. 'They usually dwindle with perhaps a few flowering again, or they might miss a few years and bloom when they feel like it.'

Deadheading will help and many gardeners lift bulbs after the foliage has died back, dry them out, and next autumn, plant in good soil for cutting, Anne continues.

Some gardeners, including expert grower Sarah Raven, simply leave them in the ground, although generally, the first year's display is always the best. However, 'You might come across good naturalizers,' says Anne. 'For example, our original bulbs of the cultivar "Fontainebleau" have flowered again and again, making decent clumps.' 

Whichever method you prefer, the chances are that you will need to top up your tulip bulbs each year to ensure a full and impressive display. 

How do tulips spread?

As mentioned above, some tulips can spread – otherwise known as naturalizing. There are two ways they can do this.

'Tulips can spread by seed, but 
take four to seven years to reach flowering size,' says John. 'Seed heads can appear in summer once flowering is long finished, and the pods split to reveal papery seeds that can be transported on the breeze.'

If you want to prevent this from happening, remove the flower stalk once the petals have dropped, thus preventing the seeds from developing. 

Some tulips are so highly bred they no longer have the ability to produce seed, John continues. However, they may produce offsets, or bulblets, which can then flower after a couple of years if left in the ground.

'If tulips appear where you don’t want them, simply dig up the bulbs and either dispose of them or replant elsewhere,' says John. 'If they are among other flowers and can’t be dug up, remove the leaves and stalks to cut off the food supply to the bulb and they will eventually stop growing.'

How do you keep cut tulips in a vase?

Although tulips make a pretty cutting garden flower, they are prone to flopping in the vase. Trim the stems diagonally by 1-2in (3-5cm) and put them in water as quickly as you can after cutting. 

Keep them out of direct sunlight and away from radiators. If you want a very straight stem, try wrapping the flowers tightly in a cone of newspaper. Leave in water overnight, and when unwrapped, they should stay upright.

Where to buy tulip bulbs

Now you know how and when to plant tulip bulbs, you're probably eager to buy some of your own. While they are generally available in garden centers from late summer to fall, you can also buy them online for extra convenience. 

We've rounded up a list of quicklinks to help start your search.

Where to buy tulip bulbs in the US:

• Shop tulip bulbs at Amazon
• Shop tulip bulbs at Burpee
• Shop tulip bulbs at Walmart
• Shop tulip bulbs at Dutch Grown
• Shop tulip bulbs at Nature Hills

Where to buy tulip bulbs in the UK:

• Shop tulip bulbs at Amazon
• Shop tulip bulbs at Crocus
• Shop tulip bulbs at Dobies
• Shop tulip bulbs at Suttons
• Shop tulip bulbs at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop tulip bulbs at You Garden

Have you ever heard of honey fungus?  It's well worth getting the lowdown on this problem, so you can identify it quickly if it appears in your garden.

Honey fungus causes branches and roots to die back, and eventually kills backyard trees and shrubs. According to the RHS, it is 'the most destructive fungal disease in UK gardens.' If spotted, you'll definitely want to stop it in its tracks so it doesn't spread.

We've explained all you need to know to tackle this disease, so you can keep your precious plants protected.

What is honey fungus?

The name 'honey fungus' refers to a few different species of the Armillaria genus which kill many types of plants. 'It is characterized by the appearance of honey-hued toadstools and stretchy black bootlace-like rhizomorphs in the soil,' says John Negus of Amateur Gardening.

'This disease clogs the plant’s food and water canals, and causes shoots and roots to die,' John continues. Other symptoms include smaller leaves that are paler than normal, a failure to flower, and cracking of the bark, says the RHS.

You can check if your plants have been affected by exposing a sizeable root and removing a thin sliver of bark. If white mold is visible beneath the bark, combined with a mushroom-like smell, honey fungus is the culprit. 

If no white mold is found but your plants seem to be suffering, another cause, such as root death, may be responsible. Check to see if the center of the roots are brown and dead to identify this potential problem.

What plants are susceptible to honey fungus?

Many trees, shrubs, and hedging plants are particularly susceptible to honey fungus. These include birches, willows, oaks, photinia, cotoneaster, and rhododendrons.

Some plants, such as pieris, pittosporum, and olive trees, are relatively resistant to the disease. Bamboo and Buxus sempervirens are also less commonly affected, although watch out for box blight with the latter.

It is possible to find honey fungus elsewhere in the garden, such as in pots of spring bulbs, although it won't harm them. To check, remove the compost when the bulbs have finished flowering and are becoming dormant, and tease through 
it looking for the telltale rhizomorphs. 'If found, bin or burn them,' says John. Avoid adding them to the compost heap as you could end up distributing them around the garden and endangering shrubs and trees. 

How do you prevent honey fungus?

Honey fungus usually invades rotting tree or shrub stumps and then spreads to other woody plants, says John.

To try and avoid this from happening, when having a tree removed, do your best to remove the tree stump and as many roots as possible (even if this means hiring a professional).

If you do find honey fungus in your garden, it's important to stop it from spreading. When removing infected plants (see below), consider removing nearby plants that seem healthy, too. For instance, if one hedging plant is infected, it may be wise to take out the plants on either side as they have likely been affected via the roots, says the RHS. 

Once the infected plants are removed, you could install a barrier made from an impermeable membrane around the area to stop any leftover fragments from spreading. 

The RHS also suggests leaving the area 'fallow' – that is, starving it from nutrients for six months to a year – in an attempt to kill any remaining fungus. In the meantime, a gravel garden will prettify the otherwise bare space. Cover the area in weed-suppressing fabric before adding the stones, then arrange an assortment of potted plants for color and interest.

Can you treat honey fungus?

Sadly, honey fungus cannot be cured. Infected plants should be dug up and binned or burned – roots and all – the sooner, the better. 'Do not shred them and add them to the compost heap, because the humus you extract will be infected and contaminate the rest of the garden,' says John.

If digging them out seems like too much work, you can tackle them with a systemic herbicide first, such as Vitax 
SBK Brushwood Killer or Roundup Tree Stump & Root Killer (both available on Amazon) John continues. 'Simply cut back trees to 12in (30cm) from the ground and, with a sharp knife, make a "frill" of cuts in the bark and paint them with weedkiller. It will travel in the sap stream to kill the roots. When dead, stumps will loosen and can be easily removed.'

If you'd rather attempt to prolong your shrub or tree's life, you can try feeding it monthly from mid-spring to early fall with a balanced granular fertilizer and keep it well-watered in dry spells. Dead branches can also be pruned out. However, honey fungus will kill the plant eventually, and may spread to other nearby plants in the meantime.

Planting bulbs for spring is a great way to plan for a colorful garden next year. And it's so easy to do, even the most inexperienced of gardeners can get involved. Bulbs are also inexpensive, come in a range of beautiful varieties, and are super versatile: you can grow them in beds and borders, containers, window boxes, and even hanging baskets. 

Autumn is the perfect time to learn how to plant tulips, daffodils, and all the other springtime favorites, and perhaps some more unusual types, too. It's crucial to get bulbs planted before the ground freezes, so it's a good idea to start planning as soon as you can. 

We've rounded up tons of useful tips on planting bulbs to help you get started with your own show-stopping display.

Everything you need to know about planting bulbs

From how and when to plant bulbs for spring to the best picks for scent or shade, you'll find all the info you need below.

When should you plant bulbs for spring?

Spring bulbs should be planted in autumn, before the ground is frozen. It's generally best to get your daffodils, crocuses, and hyacinths planted in early fall. Tulip bulbs can be planted a little later in the season which helps them resist tulip fire.

If you're 'forcing' bulbs indoors, these are best planted in early autumn, too – especially if you want them to bloom in time for Christmas. But, double-check the packet for your chosen variety to be sure.

Snowdrops can be planted from mid to late fall. The bulbs are prone to drying out, so get them in the soil as soon as possible after buying them. However, for best results, snowdrops should be planted 'in the green' (when they still have their foliage), in early spring.

You can also plant hardy summer bulbs, such as alliums and crocosmia, from early to mid-fall.

How do you plant bulbs in containers?

Bulbs are brilliant for brightening up a patio or deck in a spring container. And it's easy to plant them in this way:

1. Use multi-purpose compost and add a little horticultural grit to improve drainage.
2. For a beautiful and full display, pack in as many bulbs as you can fit. Avoid allowing them to touch, though – instead, space them around a bulb's width apart.
3. If you're opting for a mix of varieties, plant a bulb lasagne by putting the biggest bulbs at the bottom and the smallest ones on top, layering them up with soil in between.
4. Once you've finished planting your bulbs, water them once and then regularly when they're in active growth, suggests the RHS. Be careful not to overdo it though, which can lead the bulbs to rot.
5. Squirrels love to forage for bulbs in containers. Place some chicken wire or other mesh cover over the pot once you've planted it up to stop them from digging. As soon as the green shoots of the bulbs start to show, you can remove it. 

How do you plant bulbs in borders?

Bulbs should definitely be on the list when considering flower bed ideas. They bring a welcome burst of color and interest after the cooler season.

1. Aim to plant bulbs in clusters of at least six or seven for the best effects.
2. Dig a hole to the right depth and width to fit your bulbs – if you're unsure, double-check the packet, but a general rule is to plant each bulb at a depth of around two to three times its height.
3. Space them out a little further apart than you would in containers, more like twice the bulb's width between each.
4. Remember to plant them the right way – pointy shoot facing upwards.
5. Once you've put the bulbs in the hole, cover them with soil and gently firm them in. Watering isn't normally necessary, unless the soil is very dry.

How do you plant bulbs in lawns?

Planting spring bulbs in lawns is a great way of brightening up large areas of grass or difficult-to-plant areas such as steep banks. 

Choose naturalizing bulbs such as snowdrops, many types of daffodils, Scilla siberica, Fritillaria meleagris (snakes' head fritillaries) or Crocus tomasinianus that will multiply naturally on their own, increasing in number year after year.

1. To create a natural look, scatter the bulbs on the grass to be planted where they fall.
2. Use a bulb planter, available on Amazon, for large bulbs such as narcissus or tulips. Small bulbs can be planted in holes made by a garden fork or sharp stick.
3. Remove the turf plug and carefully insert the bulb. Use the soil from the plug to gently firm in and replace the turf plug on top.
4. Alternatively, several bulbs can be planted in a large hole. Using a spade, cut the turf in the shape of the letter 'H' to a depth three times the height of the bulb. Then, carefully peel back the turf, lightly fork the soil underneath to break up any that's compacted, scatter the bulbs, then replace the turf flaps. Firm in and water well to ensure the turf keeps growing.

Try mixing crocus bulbs with daffodils for a varied and colorful springtime show that lasts for months.

How deep should bulbs be planted?

Most bulbs like to be planted two to three times their own height. It can vary though, so always check the instructions on the packet.

If you're 'forcing' bulbs indoors, they can be planted much shallower, with the tips of their shoots poking just above the soil level.

What are some more unusual bulbs to try?

Tulips, daffodils, and hyacinth bulbs are all classic picks for the spring garden, and for good reason. But there are some alternatives to try if you fancy adding something a little different to the mix this year.

For containers, Graham Rice, a gardening expert of Amateur Gardening, recommends Bellevalia paradoxa, which he describes as 'like grape hyacinths on steroids.' They have dense, pointed spikes of tiny green-tinted blue buds opening to rich blue bells tipped in yellow. 'In pots, they show off their delicate detail,' he adds. They grow to around 9in (23cm). 

If you're able to provide a little winter shelter, you could also try ixia, which has upright stems lined with small flowers in a rainbow of shades. Graham suggests starting them off in a greenhouse and then moving pots to the patio as the buds open.

Another one to try for your container display is ipheion. 'These hardy, ground-covering bulbs look especially good in a pot as the mass of slender foliage droops over the sides,' says Graham. 'Wisley Blue' has starry blue, fragrant flowers.

For sunny borders, camassia makes a lovely addition, with their late-spring spikes of starry flowers in a huge range of bright blue shades, plus white, purple and pale pink. They're also very pretty naturalized in grass, adds Graham. Leucojum aestivum is another good choice. Long-flowering, it carries up to eight large white bells, with green spots at the tips and is gently chocolate scented.

You could always opt for interesting twists on the traditional bulbs, too. Graham suggests hoop-petticoat daffodils, multi-headed types of tulips and multiflora hyacinths that produce three or four flower stems from each bulb, instead of one.

What are the best bulbs for cut flowers?

Some of the best spring bulbs make fantastic cutting garden flowers, including the stalwarts of daffodils, tulips and hyacinths. There are so many options to choose from, but some of our favorites include the peachy ruffled 'La Belle Epoque' tulip; the fragrant, double-bloomed 'Cheerfulness' narcissus; and the vivid-purple 'Woodstock' hyacinth which has a gorgeous perfume.

For something that flowers a little later in the year, try brodliaea, suggests Graham Rice. Otherwise known as triteleia, they look a little like miniature agapanthus and flower in summer. They come in shades of blue, white, or, in the case of 'Foxy' are bicolored.

What are the best spring bulbs for shade?

If your garden doesn't get much sun, you can enjoy the beauty of some shade-loving, spring-flowering bulbs.

Snowdrops are naturally suited to woodland environments, so thrive in dappled shade and moist but well-drained soil. The delicate spring-flowering anemones are another good option, and some crocuses will flower in part-shade, too.

Although tulips perform best in sunny spots, they will still put on a show in partial shade, as will some varieties of narcissus.

You could also try growing Solomon's seal from bulb, which also does well in shade. It has 'an elegance beyond most perennials,' says Graham Rice, with arching, self-supporting shoots and green-tipped, cream-colored bells followed by black berries. 'But, beware of caterpillars,' he adds. If you don't fancy growing them from bulbs, you can buy them as young plants in the spring.

What should you do if your bulbs appear earlier than expected?

Spells of warmer winter weather can lead to spring bulbs emerging and flowering earlier than expected. If this is the case, you may need to protect the bulbs from frost.

'If blooming coincides with a forecast of hard frost, cover plants with fleece to reduce risk of damage,' advises John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening.

'Support fleece with a framework of canes or twiggy sticks to avoid it touching leaves and flowers. Remove protection the moment temperatures rise again.'

What should you do with spring bulbs after they have flowered?

'If those bulbs that you planted in a border can be left to naturalize and you are not planning to replace them with other plants, so much the better,' says John. Most will multiply well if left in situ. However, lifting and storing tulip bulbs, as well as hyacinths, is recommended for a better display the following year.

'As for those in containers, I suggest that when they’ve finished flowering 
you move them to a bed or border to establish well,' continues John.

'Ideally, liquid-feed all plants at weekly intervals with a high-potash tomato fertilizer while leaves are green and perky and before they fade to brown. Don’t cut off or knot the leaves as they are dying back as this will prevent them from returning goodness to the bulbs for the following year’s display.'

Alternatively, remove your bulbs from their containers when the foliage has withered and died back, and store them in a cool, airy place before replanting them in autumn.

What are some common problems with growing bulbs and how do you avoid them?

'Bulbs need well-drained soil,' says John. Wet winters can lead to waterlogged ground, and dampened bulbs are susceptible 
to fungal diseases.

If you can see white fluffy fungus on your bulbs, they may have caught sclerotinia disease. 'This is caused by the sclerotinia fungus which produces tiny black structures that persist in the soil,' explains John. 'These need wet conditions to grow, and unfortunately there are no chemical controls available.

'To try to get rid of it, first, dig over 
the bed and make sure it is draining 
well (add drainage holes and grit if necessary). Remove and dispose of all the infected bulbs, then try a few bulbs for next year to see what happens.'

Sometimes, bulbs fail to produce flowers. Some of the reasons include not planting deep enough, planting in dry soil, and planting too late (daffodils) or too early (tulips), says John.

Other reasons include your bulbs being dug up by squirrels or mice, bulbs not being fed and watered while the leaves are still growing, and the foliage not being allowed to die back naturally and return energy to the bulbs, he adds.

Snowdrops, in particular, are notoriously hard to establish. 'The usual reason is that bulbs are too small to produce flowers,' says John. 'Provided your plants grow strongly this year and bulbs enlarge, they should bloom normally next year.' You can encourage them to bloom by fertilizing the plants with sulfate of potash. Sprinkle it around your plants and water it in in mid-spring and continue to do so, monthly, until early fall.

Are bulbs toxic to pets?

Most bulbs, including daffodils and tulips, are highly poisonous plants for dogs and cats. So, if you are worried, avoid planting them in your flower beds. A raised container out of their reach may be a safer choice.

5 bulb planting ideas to try in your garden

Whether you're stuck in a bulb planting rut or simply don't know where to start when it comes to planting bulbs in your garden, try these ideas for creating spring displays with a difference. 

1. Opt for scented varieties

Not only are bulbs lovely to look at, but there are some amazingly scented ones too. 

Hyacinths are definitely at the top of the list – all have a strong, sweet-yet-spicy fragrance that will fill your garden or home. Muscari (grape hyacinths) also smell sweet, but it's much more subtle.

In terms of scented daffodils, 'Cheerfulness', 'Bridal Crown', 'Thalia' and 'Double Smiles' are some of the very best.

For scented tulips, try 'Foxtrot', 'Apricot Beauty' and the yellow-and-red 'Bellona'. Double tulips (the ones that look a little like peonies) are often scented too – try the pretty pink 'Angelique'.

And don't forget about snowdrops. Some are more scented than others, with Galanthus elwesii – which sports the largest flowers of them all – being the most fragrant with a honey-like scent. They make a great addition to the winter garden.

2. Create waves of continual color

A good bulb planting trick is to try to make sure you have waves of continual color weaving through your garden from late winter right through to early summer with successional planting. 

This means that as one set of bulbs have their final flourish, ideally the next display should be unfurling their petals. Start the year with snowdrops, followed by crocuses. Then, the hyacinths and daffodils take center stage, followed by tulips.

3. Go for mass planting

Planting en masse can create a stunning visual effect in beds and borders as well as lawns. This effect can also be achieved on a smaller scale by grouping several pots or containers together. 

Try planting a single color, choosing two or three complementary colors, or underplanting with other spring flowers such as primulas, violas or forget-me-nots.

The size of the planting area will determine how many bulbs are needed, but generally, 25–50 bulbs should be enough to make an impressive show.

4. Plant bulbs to add interest to small spaces

One of the benefits to growing bulbs in containers is that you don't need a huge garden to create beautiful displays. 

Dwarf varieties such as Iris reticulata; crocus; species tulips such as Tulipa tarda or Tulipa coerulea oculata; Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête', or Narcissus canaliculatus are ideal for growing in small pots on patios or balconies or in window boxes. 

5. Try a bulb lasagne

A bulb lasagne is a way of layering spring bulbs that creates a lovely display that lasts for months. They are easy and fun to put together, providing an opportunity to get the creative juices flowing by experimenting with colors and textures. They are also good if space is limited as you get several species in one container.

The key to successful bulb lasagne ideas is to choose bulbs with consecutive flowering periods to give a long-lasting display.

More top tips for planting bulbs

• Always choose bulbs that are plump and firm. Check that they don't have blemishes or signs of rot, too. These are most likely to perform well.
•  Don't scrimp on your bulbs. One of the key things to remember when it comes to planting bulbs is not to scrimp on the number of bulbs you plant. If you want to create impact, you can never have enough bulbs. If you were thinking of planting 10 bulbs in a pot the trick is to double it. As long as they’re not touching it will be fine. The same rule applies to the garden. If you want a drift of daffodils in a border, buy twice as many as you think you need. 
• Give them a boost. 'Check the needs of each type but, for most, a liquid feed every two or three weeks from flowering time helps fatten up bulbs,' says Graham Rice. ‘Alternatively, a dressing of bonemeal in spring is always worthwhile.'

Where to buy bulbs

Now you've learned all about planting bulbs, you probably want to buy some of your own. Although you can buy them at garden centers in autumn, there are lots of places to buy them online. 

Our quicklinks below will help you get started.

Where to buy bulbs in the US:

• Shop bulbs at Burpee
• Shop bulbs at Amazon
• Shop bulbs at Dutch Grown
• Shop bulbs at Nature Hills

Where to buy bulbs in the UK:

• Shop bulbs at Crocus
• Shop bulbs at Amazon
• Shop bulbs at Dobies
• Shop bulbs at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop bulbs at Suttons
• Shop bulbs at Sarah Raven

Want to harvest crops without waiting for months on end? There are lots of fast-growing vegetables you can add to your garden that are delicious, too.

Planting crops that quickly deliver is rewarding for everyone, whether you're a well-experienced gardener or you're trying out our tips on vegetable gardening for beginners. With these top choices, you only have to wait a mere few weeks before tucking into freshly-picked goodies.

Try these fast-growing vegetables in your raised beds and containers

These fast-growing vegetables will give you quick and easy results. And if you have a larger kitchen garden, they can come in handy for filling gaps between slower-growing crops, such as onions or corn.

1. Microgreens

• Ready to harvest in one to three weeks

You can grow microgreens on a sunny indoor windowsill all year round. They will give you plenty of nutrient-rich shoots that will instantly elevate your home-cooked meals, both in terms of flavor and aesthetics.

'There are lots of varieties and all you need is a tray, some compost, and fresh water,' says John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening. Many types take only a few weeks to grow.

If you want to try growing micro-leaves of lettuce, the Amateur Gardening experts recommend ‘Little Gem’ and ‘Lollo Rossa’. We've rounded up more options in our best microgreens to grow indoors guide.

Note that microgreens cannot be treated as a cut-and-come-again crop, the experts add. 'After harvesting seed leaves, sow another batch to ensure a succession.'

• Buy microgreen seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy microgreens seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

2. Lettuce

• Ready to harvest in as little as three weeks

Lettuce is another fast-growing plant and a stalwart ingredient for summer salads. Some varieties can take just three to four weeks to be harvested as baby leaves. Examples include 'Red Cos', 'Green Cos', and 'Jericho'.

As Thompson & Morgan suggests, 'make regular sowings for a constant supply throughout the season.' You can also harvest lettuce so it keeps growing by treating them as cut-and-come-again crops.

• Buy lettuce seeds in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy lettuce seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

3. Radishes

• Ready to harvest in three to four weeks

Radishes are most gardeners' go-to when it comes to fast-growing vegetables. Taking just a few weeks from seed to harvest, these small, plump, root veggies are perfect for thinly slicing and throwing into salads or stir-fries. You can also serve them whole alongside humous for a crunchy and healthy snack. With their array of colors, from bright pink to purple and white, they are as pretty as they are tasty.

When growing radishes, remember to thin them out as the seedlings appear, to give them enough room. They can be grown in the ground, but also in containers. For the latter, 'use a good potting compost as its loose fibers will allow roots to swell,' recommends John Negus. 'Feed the compost first by forking in some superphosphate and reapply every four to six weeks 
during the growing season.'

• Buy radish seeds in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy radish seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

4. Early carrots

• Ready to harvest in seven to nine weeks

As long as you provide the right conditions and ensure the soil is free of stones (otherwise your roots will fork), growing carrots is easier than you might think. And smaller, early varieties tend to be quicker than maincrop types to mature enough to harvest. Try the popular 'Early Nantes'.

The RHS recommends sowing batches from early spring onwards. That way, you can enjoy these tasty, crunchy crops for almost the whole year.

• Buy early carrot seeds in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy early carrot seeds in the UK: view at Suttons

5. Spinach

• Ready to harvest in six weeks

Spinach is packed with goodness and really versatile: it works just as well in curries or super salads as it does alongside poached eggs and hollandaise.

Some varieties are hardy, meaning you can enjoy this crop all year round. Although it will take a while for the leaves to reach their full, mature size, you can harvest them for 'baby' leaves in just a few weeks.

The RHS recommends 'Missouri' – a tasty variety that's a winner if you're looking for vegetables to grow in pots.

• Buy spinach seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy spinach seeds in the UK: view at Suttons

6. Courgettes

• Ready to harvest in six to eight weeks

Learning how to grow courgettes is totally straightforward and just a few plants can give you a bountiful harvest all the way through summer. 

Plant them somewhere sunny, giving each plant plenty of space to ward off powdery mildew. Pick the courgettes when they are small: this is when they're at their tastiest. The more you pick, the more will appear.

• Buy courgette seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy courgette seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

7. Arugula

• Ready to harvest in three to four weeks

Arugula, also known as rocket, is a spicy salad green that'll give any dish a kick. 

With Monty Don's tips on growing rocket, you can ensure a successful harvest. And once sown, you won't need to wait long – within a few weeks, you can start picking baby leaves which have a milder taste than those that are fully matured.

Try the cut-and-come-again technique to enjoy this crop for longer. It can be grown in pots as well as in the ground.

• Buy arugula seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy arugula seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

8. Baby beetroot

• Ready to harvest in six to seven weeks

Growing beetroot is simple and they can be harvested from early summer to autumn. As well as the usual purple kind, you can also get golden varieties which look stunning on the plate.

Harvesting 'baby beets' can be done around six weeks after sowing. The RHS suggests 'Boldor' which has an elongated, round shape and golden flesh. You could also try 'Pablo' which is round and dark red.

• Buy beetroot seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy beetroot seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

9. Chard

• Ready to harvest in four to six weeks

Chard is one of the easiest vegetables to grow, and the colorful varieties will add a splash of vibrancy to your veg patch. 

Like many other leafy veggies on this list, you can harvest the leaves when they're young in just a few weeks – these can be added raw to salads. 'Snip mini-leaves as soon as they’re a usable size,' says the RHS. 'They should re-grow if you leave a small stump.'

• Buy chard seeds in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy chard seeds in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

10. Spring onions

• Ready to harvest in eight weeks

Spring onions are a valuable ingredient for elevating all sorts of dishes and they don't take long to grow: just eight weeks after sowing. Sue Sanderson at Thompson & Morgan recommends 'White Lisbon' as a great choice for new gardeners.

If your crop starts to flop, ensure you're giving them enough water. If you are, the problem may be onion fly or bean seed fly. Adult onion flies normally lay eggs in early to mid summer but can strike earlier, and larvae devour roots that cause plants to die, explains John Negus. Bean seed fly damages onions in a similar way.

'Unfortunately, there are no insecticides to combat these problems, so the best way to avoid it recurring is to grow onions where you have not cropped them for at least three years,' he suggests. 'Additionally, examine "flopped" plants to see if tiny white grubs are eating the roots. If they are, bin these plants.'

• Buy spring onions in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy spring onions in the UK: view at Suttons

Want to know how and when to plant daffodil bulbs, plus how to care for them once they've flowered? Follow our expert advice and you'll be rewarded with a wonderful display that will lift the garden after a long, gray winter. 

Daffodils are a must-have when it comes to planting bulbs. Not only are they reliable and easy-going, but they will come back year after year, too. And there is plenty of choice. In fact, there are around 13,000 different varieties of daffodil, which is the common name for any plant which belongs to the Narcissus group. They can be split into 13 main groups, characterized by their color, form, size and shape. Some have large trumpets and single flowers, others are cup-shaped, while others offer clusters of blooms on the same stem. 

Whether you prefer pops of primary yellow, dreamy whites, gold, or uplifting orange, there's a dependable daffodil to suit every color palette. And there are lots of ways to plant them – whether that's a golden ribbon of flowers running along a verge, a group of bright pots placed on a patio, or some splashes of sunshine nosing through the lawn.

We've brought together plenty of advice on how and when to plant daffodil bulbs, plus how to care for them once they appear in spring.

When to plant daffodil bulbs

Knowing when to plant daffodil bulbs is the first step in creating a gorgeous springtime display.

Plant the bulbs in early to mid fall, suggests Anne Swithinbank, a gardening expert of Amateur Gardening. This will allow them to establish deep root systems, which help them take up water in spring to fuel up next year's bulbs. They will flower from late winter to late spring, depending on the variety and when you planted them.

If you discover a bag of unplanted bulbs in late fall, or even early winter, it is still worth planting them, Anne adds. 'They eventually sort themselves out.'

Where should you plant daffodil bulbs?

Daffodils generally prefer a sunny spot in well-drained soil – this is particularly the case with smaller types known as 'jonquils' – although some can cope with light shade.

As with many bulbs, including hyacinths, avoid putting them in heavily waterlogged soil or very shady spots. These sorts of conditions can prevent them from flowering and encourage the bulbs to rot.

How to plant daffodil bulbs in the ground

When considering your springtime flower bed ideas, be sure to put daffodils on the list. They're so simple to plant.

1. Start by digging over the soil and removing any weeds.
2. Add some homemade compost or buy a bag of well-rotted manure and fork some in.
3. Take a bulb and plant it in the soil, at a depth roughly three times its height. Make sure the pointy side is facing upwards. 'Take care when handling as some bulbs are treated with fungicide and sap can irritate the skin,' advises Anne Swithinbank. For this reason, it's best to wear gardening gloves.
4. To make a good clump that will create a pool of color, plant at least seven bulbs together in a cluster. They should be planted about 4in (10cm) apart.
5. Cover the bulbs with soil. There's normally no need to water them after planting unless the soil is very dry.

How to plant daffodil bulbs in containers

Daffodils are perfectly suited to container gardening. A pot of daffodils can add instant cheer to a drab patio or front garden, or they may be used to brighten up a window box. 

You can even get creative with bulb lasagne ideas and layer them up with other spring bulbs for a long-lasting display.

1. Find a pot with drainage holes, and put some pebbles or broken bits of pot in the bottom. This helps with drainage and air circulation.
2. Fill three-quarters of the pot with compost such as John Innes No 2 or John Innes No 3.
3. Add some slow-release fertilizer and a handful of grit, and then, wearing gloves, plant the bulbs in the container. You can set the bulbs a little closer than you would in the ground, but make sure they're not touching. They should be at a depth roughly three times the height of the bulb. Make sure the pointed side is facing upwards.
4. Cover with soil and water well.

You can also force bulbs indoors – a lovely way to brighten up the home.

How do you get daffodils to grow in the grass? 

There's no prettier sight than naturalized daffodils – the term for flowers that grow through the grass. It is an easy effect to achieve.

1. Take a handful of bulbs and toss them up in the air. Planting them where they land will create a natural and informal effect.
2. Using a bulb planter or a small, sharp-edged trowel, remove plugs of turf, and insert each bulb into each cavity at a depth of three times their height. Replace the turf on top.
3. For a swathe of bulbs, cut out an H-shaped segment of turf and drop the bulbs into the space. Replace the turf lid, and gently water.
4. The flowers will multiply over the years. 

Why not learn how to plant crocus bulbs too, to add to the springtime display?

How to care for daffodils

Daffodil care is simple as they are resilient plants. There are four easy things that you can do that will really encourage them to thrive, flower and multiply.

Firstly, deadhead daffodils when the flowers turn brown. This is easily done by nipping off the dead flowers between thumb and finger at the top of stems: no pruners or snips are needed.

Secondly, do not cut off the dying leaves until at least early summer when they have turned yellow. This will ensure that the bulbs build up enough reserves to flower well the following spring.

'Never knot foliage as this prevents leaves from working properly to refuel the bulb for next year,' says Anne.

Thirdly, feed them. This can be done by sprinkling a general fertilizer across the clumps or drifts as the shoots first emerge. Alternatively, use a liquid feed two or three times between shoot emergence and flowering. 

Finally, when daffodils are naturalized in grass, be sure not to mow the lawn until early summer when the leaves have turned yellow.

What should you do if your daffodils aren't flowering?

Daffodils are one of the more reliable bulbs for flowering year after year. However, if you notice that your show is depleting and you're no longer getting all those beautiful blooms as expected, then there are a few tips you can try.

'Daffodils coming up all leaf and no flower are referred to as "blind",' says Anne Swithinbank of Amateur Gardening. 'This can happen if they are in deep shade, have suffered from spring drought, or the bulbs are so congested below ground they cannot swell to flowering size. 

'Try deadheading and liquid feeding,' she suggests, 'but lifting, dividing and replanting is often the answer, either while in leaf, or as leaves wither.' Dormant bulbs are easy to lift, dry off, store and replant in fall.

Can you leave daffodil bulbs in the ground all year?

Learning how to lift and store tulip bulbs will allow you to replant them each year for fresh new blooms. Daffodils, however, are much less maintenance as you can simply leave them in the ground.

They will multiply steadily until, when they become overcrowded, flowering tails off. At this point it pays to dig them up, as mentioned above: the clumps should be split and the bulbs immediately replanted.

Of course, when daffodil foliage dies down in early summer, an unsightly gap will be left in your display. There are two ways to fill the gap. Annuals can be planted over the daffodil bulbs (take care not to damage the bulbs when planting), or seeds of quick-growing annuals, like alyssum, can be sown over them. These will flower later in the summer.

Another approach is to plant perennials such as hostas or pulmonarias, whose foliage will spread over where the daffodils flowered.

If you've planted your daffodils in pots, the bulbs can be left in the same containers for a couple of years. But, it's worth refreshing the top layer of compost annually and also adding some fertilizer to ensure plenty of super healthy flowers. 

Are daffodils deer resistant?

The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station has a program in which they test garden flowers for deer resistance. They rate daffodils as 'Rarely damaged', the top rating out of four. 

This means they are pretty reliable deer-resistant plants, although the occasional flower may be nipped off.

Which varieties of daffodil bulbs should you choose? 

There are lots of different types of daffodils to pick from for your garden. 

Early varieties are perfect for a dose of post-winter color. 'Rijnveld's Early Sensation', a classic, plain golden-yellow daffodil, is a reliable choice that will push through soon after Christmas.

If you're looking for clusters of flowers on one stem, you can't go far wrong with the popular 'Tête à Tête'. Standing just 6in (15cm) tall with bright yellow trumpets, it's perfect for small spring containers and rockeries. Anne Swithinbank also suggests 'Minnow', which is creamier in color with flat, yellow cups and works well for window boxes.

For something strikingly different, 'Smiling Maestro' has bright yellow petals with a hot orange, cup-shaped trumpet. It's not subtle but it will certainly make a splash. You could also try 'Stint', as Anne suggests. It has flowers of a bright, almost acid lemon hue with slightly richer cups – usually one to three per stem. 'The heads nod prettily and look great alongside blue-flowered muscari or scilla in borders or containers,' she adds. Why not learn how to plant a bulb lasagne and combine all three?

If yellow is not your thing, opt for elegant white flowers instead. Try 'Petrel' for two to five nodding flowers on upright stems. For a warmer-toned, creamy-colored bloom, 'Toto' is a good choice. 

And if you're looking for scent, 'Erlicheer' may be the right daffodil for you – an exotic-looking double flower with a delicious perfume. Anne also recommends 'Avalanche' which has white petals and lemon cups, each richly fragrant.

And, if you have space for daffodils to multiply, try 'Hawera'. It has a dainty, pale flower with a short trumpet. The clumps should increase from year to year and are a lovely way to jolly up a lawn.

How to buy daffodils

Most daffodils are bought as dry bulbs in late summer or fall. Garden centers and other retail outlets offer them in packs of anything from five to 25 or, occasionally, in large sacks. A color picture, description and planting instructions will be displayed on the pack. If you are buying them in person, choose large, firm bulbs and avoid any which show signs of mold.

A far wider range of varieties is available by mail order from specialist bulb suppliers who offer them in packs of five to 25, with some popular varieties available by the thousand.

Daffodils are also available as 'Mixed' and these packs will include an unpredictable blend of unnamed varieties of different kinds and in different colors. The price is often very attractive, making them a tempting way to save money at the garden center, but because the different varieties flower at different times, the display can be a little thin.

Daffodils, especially dwarf varieties, are also sold in garden centers and other retail outlets in bud or in flower. These are ideal for adding a bright spark to spring containers.

Where to buy daffodil bulbs

Now that you know how and when to plant daffodil bulbs, and how to care for them once they've grown, you probably want some of your own. We've rounded up some quicklinks to help start your search.

Shop daffodil bulbs in the US:

• Shop daffodil bulbs at Burpee
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Nature Hills
• Shop daffodil bulb at Dutch Grown
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Amazon
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Lowe's

Shop daffodil bulbs in the UK:

• Shop daffodil bulbs at Crocus
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Amazon
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Dobies
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop daffodil bulbs at Suttons

Choosing vegetables to plant in October may seem challenging at first. But you’d be surprised how many crops you can start off in style as the cooler months begin. The likes of slow-maturing Japanese onions and asparagus revel in the freshness of the late fall garden. Some, like broad beans, take advantage of the slower pace on the plot to overwinter to tender perfection. Others like peacock kale and green-in-snow can be enjoyed as micro leaves or baby greens weeks after sowing, or left a bit longer to develop more complex and spicy flavors. 

Selecting crops with different harvest points is especially important as winter approaches. You’ll have been spoiled for choice in early fall as a multitude of veggies seemed to fall into your lap – but now there will be more gaps, and any crops stashed in food stores will only last so long. The trick at this point in the vegetable planting calendar is to make the most of every minute of daylight, by setting off slower-developing bulbs and roots in the ground, or kickstarting hardy greens, mustards and beans under glass. 

Just make allowances for frosts, and protect outdoor crops with tents, fleeces, cloches and cold frames. Stay on top of the weather, adding protection and support where necessary, and you’re all set. Our guide to the best crops to start now will help you make the most of fast and fresh pickings alongside existing homegrown harvests – and ensure you have plenty more to look forward to in the coming months…

12 vegetables to plant in October for months of hearty harvests

Some of the best vegetables to sow now will quietly bulk up as the harsher weather pinches. Japanese onions, garlic, cauliflower and asparagus are primed to make the most of winter dormancy. Roots like black radishes relish the cool freshness and, while they take slightly longer to harvest than they would in summer, they soon deliver a spicy kick even in the heart of winter. 

And if you’re after a few fast returns on October-sown kitchen garden ideas, worry not! Punchy green-in-snow and giant spinach bulk up surprisingly fast. And for a really zippy nutritious feast, why not just load up some bean sprouts? 

1. White cauliflower

A well-formed cluster of tightly packed curds is a joy to behold, making the cauliflower one of our top vegetables to plant in October. Nutty, peppery and pleasingly plump, early-summer cropping cultivars like ‘Snowball’ and ‘Barcelona’ can be sown in cold frames to overwinter at their leisure. 

If you grow cauliflowers you just have to bear in mind that they are cool season brassicas and need moist, fertile soil. They also need light to develop the leafy layers that keep their curds well covered as they fill out. 

There are plenty of great varieties to try. ‘Seoul’ develops a strong root system so it thrives even in stressed conditions. ‘Barcelona’ is ideally suited to an October sowing and develops bright white curds. And popular ‘Snowball’ is a great all-rounder, very compact and can also be frozen. Cauliflower are some of the best winter vegetables to grow, thanks to their highly resilient natures and steady growing needs.

Knowing exactly when to harvest your cauliflower might take a bit of practice to get right. It can take anything from three to five months, depending on the variety you choose. As a general rule, the head should be firm and compact. Don’t wait until the little florets start to open and split – that's a sign it is moving past its peak of flavor. 

• Shop for white cauliflower seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop for white cauliflower seeds in the UK: view at Suttons

2. Winter-hardy peas

If you’re like us, you’re always planning your next fix of peas. The good news is, as soon as you wave goodbye to a summer of pods, you can crack on with the next batch. October sowings are surprisingly effective, as long as you select the right varieties. As Amateur Gardening's fruit and vegetable expert Lucy Chamberlain points out. ‘The advantage of sowing peas now instead of spring is earlier maturity, plus a sizable root system that gives impressive yields,’ she says. 

The key to success with October sowing is to use only hardy varieties, and to avoid waterlogging. The quality of your soil will have a major bearing on how you sow, so if you aren’t sure about soil types, it's worth finding out. If you have a sandy, well-drained soil, sow direct and cover emerging plants with cloches. If you don’t have the right soil or are worried about exposure, sow into deep pots, place in a cold frame and plant out in March. 

The best pea varieties will be round-seeded varieties, which are naturally better suited for colder, wetter conditions. Wrinkled seeds, by comparison, have plenty of crevices for water to be held and are best for spring sowings. Great October options include ‘Douce Provence’ and ‘Meteor’. They have a high tolerance for exposed sites, so are great for balcony gardens and roof gardens. Another hardy variety is ‘Feltham First’, a traditional high-yielding favorite.  

• Shop for peas in the US: view at Burpee
• Shop for peas in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

3. Hardy basil

In our rundown of vegetables to plant in October, we urge you to make room for some aromatic basil. As a focal point for your indoor herb garden, this is a lovely low-maintenance crop. To grow basil, just give it a sunny spot in a warm corner. Lucy recommends you sow a small pinch of seed per 3in (8cm) pot, and do this successionally for a continuous harvest. 

Sow over seed compost and cover with a thin layer of vermiculite, then water gently. Place in a propagator or cover with a clear bag. Remove once seeds germinate. Place in sunshine or under grow lights, and keep the compost moist (but don’t overwater as basil doesn’t like to sit in the wet for long). Place in separate pots once plants have two true leaves. Keep indoors, repotting as roots show through the drainage holes.  Alternatively, harden off for two weeks in spring and move out into a larger container, raised bed or well-drained, fertile soil. Basil can work well with companion plants such as tomatoes or spinach. 

Whether your preference is for something citrussy like Ocimum x citriodorum or ‘Mrs Burns Lemon’, classic large-leaf ‘Genovese’, compact ‘Greek’ or Thai ‘Siam Queen’, there’s a basil to suit every taste.

• Shop for Genovese basil seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop for Genovese basil seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

4. Black radish

Hungry gardeners looking for the most peppery payloads in the colder months should definitely make room for the black radish. This hardy sooty skinned radish, (Raphanus sativus var. niger) is not only one of the best plants for beginners but it is also perfect for late fall plantings. It thrives in cooler climates and develops quickly so its needs are few. 

If you have a yen for growing radishes and want to try at this time of year, you just need to maintain a constant of at least six hours of daylight per day – and ensure ground conditions are kept moist but not waterlogged. 

With its wild and rustic appearance, the black radish packs a hale and hearty punch. It’s loaded with vitamins A, C and E as well as iron and potassium and is said to maintain a healthy gut, a clean liver and a bright immune system. Oh, and as well as being even tastier than its red counterpart, the black radish is easier to store and can be kept for longer into winter. The only thing to bear in mind with harvesting is that it takes slightly longer to grow a black radish, at around 55-70 days. 

Direct-sow in moist, rich, well-drained soil with a pH of 6-6.5. Space 4-6in (10-15cm) apart or thin once seedlings are a few inches tall (the pickings make a tasty snack or garnish). Cover with cloches to protect from the elements. Black radishes make excellent companion plants for onions, chervil, dill and parsnips. Keep the ground weed-free, then pick crops when 4in (10cm) across and firm to the touch. Delicious, grated in salads and in winter-warming broths and stir-fries!

• Shop for black radish seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop for black radish seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

5. Green in snow (winter mustard)

Fast-growing, robust and resilient to the cold, the ‘winter mustard’ (as it is also known) is championed for its suitability to fall planting. Loaded with vitamins, this spicy number makes a zingy ‘cut and come again’ crop for chillier months. As long as it is protected from frost, Brassica juncea is happy with fresher autumnal temperatures and quickly finds its feet either in open ground or undercover in a greenhouse or cold frame. 

Bulking up quickly, these spicy greens are some of the easiest vegetables to grow from seed. And for those who love growing lettuce in winter, these oriental salad staples can be sown at regular intervals for months of fresh and feisty pickings. Sow in drills or 12in (30cm) pots and thin to 3in (8in) apart. When harvesting these firecrackers, just bear in mind that the bigger the leaves are allowed to grow, the spicier they taste, so pluck while young every few weeks for a manageable tingle. 

Green-in-snow are great companion plants for other cut-and-come-again greens like mizuna, rocket and claytonia. For those looking to grow thyme, sage, mint and dill, winter mustard also works well in tandem as it amplifies the natural flavors. 

• Shop for Green-in-snow seeds in the UK: view at Chiltern Seeds

6. Peacock kale

Superfood par excellence, cool and crispy kale stands proud on the plot. Capable of withstanding the chilliest winters and as ornamental as it is nutrient-dense, Brassica oleracea is one of the most striking vegetables to plant in October. And as the name suggests, peacock kale is one of the fanciest crops you can grow in winter. Large, fluffy and wispy, like savory white snowflakes growing in the garden, these curious crops bulk up through the cooler months to produce a sweetly peppery feast.   

Peacocks may look like divas, but they are surprisingly low maintenance. As anyone who knows how to grow kale will tell you, these crops appreciate a rich, slightly alkaline soil (prepared with aged compost or similar organic material). They also appreciate exposure to around six hours of sunshine a day. Sow direct at 6in (15cm) intervals and thin when 3in (8cm) high. Suitable companion plants for kale include beans, leeks, chives, lemongrass, rosemary and alliums.  

You can grow this kale both as a mature crop and as a micro leaf. As Lucy Chamberlain notes, kale makes a lively young ‘cut and come again’ salad. If growing just as a baby leaf, sow generously under glass in a tray of multi-purpose and harvest with scissors. Perfect with fennel, ginger and nuts. 

• Shop for peacock kale in the UK: view at Suttons

7. Garlic

Prolific, plump and easy to grow: this month is a great time to learn how to grow garlic, as Lucy Chamberlain explains. ‘If you start crops off in autumn, you’ll have a better chance of creating bigger bulbs,’ says Lucy. ‘The extra growing time encourages a more extensive root system to form, which in turn gives more foliage to fuel large heads.’  

Just don’t use supermarket cloves! Order from a garden center or seed supplier to be sure yours are disease-free. Choose from hardneck or softneck varieties, and stick to hardier varieties. Hardneck ‘Extra Early Wight’ and softneck ‘Picardy Wight’ are both robust enough to tolerate winter conditions. There’s also violet-streaked ‘Germidour’, marbled ‘Caulk White’ and ‘Elephant’ for monster cloves.

Garlic grows best in full sun and well-drained sites. The standard method is to plant cloves in situ to overwinter under cloches. If your soil is prone to waterlogging, you can start your garlic off in raised garden beds, or in modules under a cold frame before planting out in spring. Some of the best companion plants for garlic include cabbages, kale and potatoes. Alternatively, move garlic outside in large containers after hardening off. With regular watering, very large crops can be enjoyed.

• Shop for garlic in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop for garlic in the UK: view at Amazon

8. Asparagus

Asparagus is certainly not in the 'fast fix' category of gardening – but it's well worth starting some in October. While many gardeners focus on learning how to grow asparagus in early to mid spring, October is the ideal time for planting to give them the best chance of survival. And while you can't enjoy this delicacy for a few years, we promise you it’s worth the wait – and you can reap the rewards for decades after. 

These plants are large, bushy affairs and need to be planted in the ground – they won’t be happy in containers. And although asparagus can be grown from seed, October is the time to plant one-year-old dormant crowns (with crowns, you don’t have to wait as long for the crops – just two years). These plants grow best in light, well-drained soil in an open, sunny spot or dappled shade. If you have heavy soil, try a raised bed instead. Prep the soil with some organic matter. Keep watering plants (especially in the first growing season) and make sure the plot is free from weeds. 

Great varieties to try include Canadian-bred ‘Guelph Millennium’, disease-resistant ‘Mondeo’, vibrant ‘Pacific Purple’ and prolific ‘Jersey Knight’.

• Shop for asparagus crowns in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop for asparagus crowns in the UK: view at Amazon

9. Giant spinach

Keen on cultivating the fattest, most flavorsome examples of Popeye’s much-loved leafy greens? October is the perfect time to start off some showstopping spinach. Just make sure the varieties you choose have been bred for winter hardiness. Choose a large, robust leafy type such as heirloom ‘Gigante d’Inverno’ (aka ‘Giant of Winter’) or sweet ‘Giant Noble’, developed to withstand chills. For best results, grow your spinach under cloches or cold frames for lush and tender leaves all winter long.

The trick in knowing how to grow spinach is keeping crops in fertile, moist, well-drained earth, and ensuring temperatures are balanced and cool. Get that right, and these robust greens are some of the best winter crops to grow undercover. As Lucy points out, spinach will germinate rapidly as long as there is still warmth and light – both of which are easy to manage under glass. ‘Just sow drills straight into the greenhouse border or into modules in a propagator, ready to transplant into the border or growing bags at the end of October,’ says Lucy. 

Thin or transplant plants so they grow at 6in (15cm) intervals. As crops are harvested, you may find it boosts productivity in remaining spinach to remove every alternate plant. Great companion plants include chard, onions, asparagus, cabbage and collard greens. Keep well watered for the most tender leaves, and harvest by gently cutting from outer edges.  

• Shop for spinach in the US: view at Burpee
• Shop for spinach in the UK: view at Suttons

10. Japanese onions

Autumn-planting onions (aka Japanese onions) are perfect vegetables to plant in October. These hardy overwintering onions make the most of shortening calendar days and tougher conditions. As Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk points out, they are also tough enough to withstand the cold weather. 'If the conditions get too frosty, you can cover them with a fleece to be on the safe side,’ says Chris. 

Choose brown-skinned ‘Radar’ and ‘Troy’ for bolt resistance and for squaring off against the worst of the winter weather. Then there’s the shiny red-skinned ‘Electric’, a really attractive salad bowl beauty which keeps for up to four weeks from harvest. ‘Snowball’ is a nice white-skinned option with a mild taste. ‘Toughball’ has a good tolerance to botrytis and downy mildew. And not forgetting ‘Senshyu Yellow’ – the classic globe variety that can survive temperatures as low as -18°C! 

Japanese onions make excellent companion plants for leeks, brassicas and parsley. Just make sure when growing onions that the ground is firm, but not compacted. If the bulbs sit in water, they risk rotting – good drainage is essential for the healthiest and biggest bulbs come spring. 

• Shop for Japanese onions in the UK: view at Suttons

11. Broad beans

If you want to get a head start on next year’s broad bean harvests, this is one of the best vegetables to plant in October. Hardy beans can cope with temperatures as low as 14˚F (-10˚C). As well as being super-early to mature in spring, the extra time in the ground ensures a stronger root system. Those looking to grow broad beans now should pick a variety like classic ‘Aquadulce Claudia’, newer ‘De Monica’ and tender ‘Meteor’. And if you like growing vegetables in pots, there's also dwarf ‘The Sutton’. As a general rule, longpod varieties are the hardiest.

Start off your beans indoors or in pots under a cold frame. Sow in 4-6in (10-12cm) pots under glass. ‘It’s important the pots are large, so seedlings can sit in them all winter,’ says Lucy. It's fine to sow direct, as long as you have fleece or a cloche to hand. It can help to fork in well-rotted manure or compost before sowing. After sowing, use a hoe to keep on top of weeds, add supports for taller varieties, and keep coverings handy. 

• Shop for broad beans in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

12. Beansprouts 

Ok, so we admit this isn’t technically a veggie that you grow by planting. However, we couldn’t resist including this one. It’s fun, nutritious and a key crop in winter stir-fries! What’s more, a few days is all it takes to make a harvest, and you can grow loads in a small space. Sprouting is the process of germination, which is how every vegetable gets started. The difference here is that rather than planting the results of this germination, you eat these crunchy legumes straight away. Knowing how to grow bean sprouts is one of the simplest ways to enjoy homegrown veggies.

It’s typically easiest to use mung beans (Vigna radiata), a relative of the broad bean (and also known as the wild mung or mash bean). Stick to whole, untreated mung beans from health stores or online catalogs; don’t be tempted to use seeds or beans sold for planting, as the chances are that those will have been treated. Mung beans and lentils are the easiest for growing bean sprouts. You can also grow sprouts from alfalfa seeds and chickpeas – they just need a little more time.  

• Shop mung beans in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop mung beans in the UK: view at Amazon

What else can I do for vegetables in October?

• If you grow chillies, you should be finding plenty of fruits coloring up. Tackle gluts by turning them into jam. Recipes based on sugar, garlic, sweet peppers and cider vinegar make great gifts, says Lucy. For relishes and chutneys, add mustard seeds, onions, tomatoes, herbs and seasoning. Or dry into pretty string ristras that keep for years.
• Celeriac growers need to keep beds well weeded. Pick off any celery leaf miner damage. Remove the outer, lower leaves as new ones push through the centre. This exposes the harvestable part and eases any foliage congestion. Once they are large enough, lift them, trim off any excess roots and place in boxes of damp sand.
• Cover any tender tubers like yacon, sweet potatoes or oca with straw, held down with netting. These vegetables don’t bulk up until late autumn, and this layer prolongs their growth. Lay around the roots of your crop, then cover over the plants with a cloche.

Keep an eye on fruit jobs in October

• Insulate against chilly nights by shutting glasshouse vents and doors, so grapes, figs, melons and other undercover fruits can ripen. You also need to move potted finger limes, feijoas and pomegranates undercover as temperatures fall.
• For summer raspberries such as ‘Glen Ample’, prune out this year’s fruited canes to the base. ‘New canes can be thinned out to one every 6in/15cm of row. Choose the strongest and cull the weakest,’ says Lucy. Autumn-fruiting varieties like ‘Polka’ will still yield berries in mild weather. So cloak the rows in a double layer of horticultural fleece. 
• If you are growing fruit in pots, pot up congested fruit plants in larger containers. Check the size of the rootball, then pick a pot 2-3in (5-8cm) wider, with ample drainage in the base. Thick-walled pots (troughs or half-barrels) insulate roots well. If using unglazed terracotta, line the sides with polythene to prevent moisture loss. 

Wondering how and when to harvest rhubarb? This perennial is a great veg-patch addition for gardeners of all levels of experience. The long, thick stems are delicious stewed with a sprinkling of sugar and a spoonful of ice cream, or baked into crumbles or cakes.

Growing rhubarb is straightforward. But, when it comes to picking it, there's the right way to do it and the wrong way. The latter doesn't just have detrimental effects on the taste – it can also affect the health of the remaining plant. Our guide explains, so you can enjoy this tasty treat for years to come.

When to harvest rhubarb

Harvesting vegetables and fruit properly is always key for the best results, and rhubarb is no exception. 

Rhubarb is usually ready from late spring to early summer – although it can be sooner in the year if you've used forcing pots and early varieties. 

Note that pinkness of the stems doesn't always indicate ripeness. In fact, green stems are safe to eat, according to John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening. They may just need a bit more sugar when you cook them. The cause is usually warm, dry weather, although some varieties are simply greener by nature.

So, rather than going by color, detect ripeness by looking at the stalks. These should be thick and around 12in long or more, with leaves that are fully open at the top.

In the first two years after planting, it's important not to over-pick the stems to avoid rhubarb growing problems. In the first year, refrain from picking at all, and pick only a few stems the second year.

Also, it is best not to harvest rhubarb after mid-summer, adds John. In an article for The Express, gardening guru Monty Don agrees, saying to let the plants grow and for the leaves to get really big after this point in the year. 'All that goodness that they take through photosynthesis will feed back into the roots and ensure a good harvest the following year,' he explains.

How to harvest rhubarb

Harvesting rhubarb is very easy. All you need to do is hold the stem near the base with your hands, and gently twist and pull. It should break away from the rest of the plant cleanly. You definitely don't need your best secateurs for this task.

The RHS advises not to take more than a third of a plant's stems at once, to keep it in a state of active growth.

Bear in mind that the leaves, which contain high levels of oxalic acid, are toxic and should never be eaten, John warns. So, be sure to cut them off and discard them, then wash the stems before you start cooking. According to Rhubarb Central, you can add the leaves to your compost heap, although you may want to shred them up a bit first to speed up the decomposition process.

Can you still harvest rhubarb once it has flowered?

Dry, hot weather can encourage rhubarb plants to flower. Although they look quite pretty, it is best to cut entire flower stalks off if they appear and discard them (don't eat them). This will help the plant reserve its energy and use it to grow more edible, foliage stems instead.

You can still continue to eat the usual rhubarb leaf stems after this, but as mentioned above, stop harvesting around mid-summer.

Bright summer blooms inevitably fade as the seasons shift. But, the best winter plants for pots will keep the spirits lifted and the garden looking beautiful, despite colder temperatures and darker evenings.

There are plenty of stunning winter garden ideas that will bring a smile to your face on frosty days. But one of the best ways to brighten up an outdoor space is to plant some gorgeous containers. With flower beds and borders looking a little bare over the coldest season, using pots is a great way to ensure there is still plenty of interest in your yard during the months ahead. Of course, many winter-flowering plants will provide vital nectar for foraging wildlife, too – even more reason for introducing them to your plot.

'Remember that plants in containers will take less cold than the same varieties planted in the ground,' says Graham Rice, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 'So, for containers, plan as if your garden is one zone colder than it actually is and choose only the most frost-hardy varieties.'

To give you lots of inspiration, we've rounded up our favorite winter plants you can use in your containers for a stunning display.

Wonderful winter plants for pots to try in your yard

Want to ensure your container gardening ideas are packed with color, scent and interest throughout the colder weather? Our edit of winter plants for pots is the perfect place to start. 

1. Wintergreen

Wintergreen (or Gaultheria procumbens) planted in pots makes a cheery addition to outdoor Christmas decor with its vibrant red berries. Alternatively, try Gaultheria 'Pearls' which has white berries with a pink flush. Both will thrive in full to part shade.

Replant these dwarf evergreens in a larger container or into your borders as a ground-cover plant when it's time to give your winter pots a refresh. Be sure to always wear gloves when handling these plants, however, as they are toxic.

• Buy gaultheria in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy gaultheria in the UK: view at Crocus

2. Primulas

Primulas are a classic winter bedding plant, bringing a big boost of bold color to a display. Some are hardier than others, one of our favorites being 'Zebra Blue' which has striped flowers and yellow centers. It blooms in late winter through to late spring and thrives in partial shade. Take a cue from this setup and push structural twigs into the soil for extra height and drama.

As perennials, keep these beauties going once the season ends by planting them into your borders. As they grow, they will form large clumps which can be divided to improve vigor (and to get 'new' free plants).

Summer or autumn is the best time to do so: 'Simply lift a plant and, using two hand forks inserted close together and back-to-back, divide the clump into chunky, well-rooted portions,' says John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 'Replant them in a shady spot for summer and, in autumn, set them where they are to flower in spring.'

Polyanthus – a type of primula which produces flowers in umbels – is also one of our favorite winter plants for pots. Sue Sanderson, writing for Thompson & Morgan, recommends ‘Firecracker’ for a fragrant display. Deadhead the flowers often to encourage prolific blooming.

• Buy primulas in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

3. Winter irises

With their elegant structure and jewel-like tones, winter irises will brighten any patio or doorstep. The team at Amateur Gardening suggests 'Harmony' – a stunning bloom with rich purple-blue flowers and a golden band on the fall, which flowers in mid-winter.

For something a little different, opt for the ice-white 'Frozen Planet' when planting your winter container, which has pale-blue-tipped petals and will bloom all the way from early winter to spring. 'Pauline' is another beautiful choice, offering a sophisticated shade of plum. 

Plant the bulbs in fall in well-drained soil, and for best results, position the containers in full sun. Each plant will grow to around 6in (15cm), depending on the variety.

• Buy winter irises in the US: view at Burpee

4. Winter aconites

A wonderful winter garden plant, the sun-yellow flowers of aconites bring reliable cheer. 'After flowering, plant them out in humus-rich moisture-retentive soil in semi-shade, where they will naturalize,' suggests the Amateur Gardening team.

They don't grow too tall – only around 4in (10cm). Try planting up a cluster of smaller pots for an instant uplift, or dot the bulbs around the perimeter of a larger container. 

Pollinators adore these buttercup-like blooms, so they're perfect if you're looking for winter wildlife garden ideas.

• Buy winter aconites in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy winter aconites in the UK: view at Crocus

5. Early crocuses

In shades of yellow, lilac, deep purple and frosty white, early crocuses are perfect for adding to winter planters.

Try 'Pickwick', a larger variety with white goblet flowers and purple veining, which will bloom in late winter in milder regions. RHS-award-winning 'Blue Pearl' is another favorite with its silvery-lilac petals and deep yellow throats, or try 'Snow Bunting' for white, star-shaped blooms with sunshine-yellow centers. If you love a deeper purple hue, then opt for 'Whitewell Purple', as shown above.

Plant crocus bulbs in well-drained containers positioned in the sun (they won't flower in shade). After flowering, plant them out in a sunny patch of a border or lawn, where they will form clumps over time.

• Buy winter crocuses in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy winter crocuses in the UK: view at Crocus

6. Heucheras

Coral bells, otherwise known as heucheras, have pretty flower spikes in summer. However, the frilly, semi-evergreen, vibrant foliage makes them a good plant for winter color, too, especially in regions where temperatures don't drop too low.

Amateur Gardening suggests 'Marmalade' as a variety to try, with its caramel and pink leaves to warm the winter scene. To set a moody, dramatic tone, opt for 'Black Pearl', whilst 'Sugar Frosting' as shown above looks gorgeously festive against ruby-red viola 'Rose Blotch'.

Plant them in moist, well-drained pots in sun or semi-shade.

• Buy heuchera in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy heuchera in the UK: view at Crocus

7. Pansies and violas

Create a container of pansies and you are guaranteed a cheering display all through autumn, winter and into early spring. These bedding plants are one of the best plants for beginners if you follow a few simple rules. Choose plants labeled as 'winter-flowering' to guarantee they will thrive in colder weather. 

Plant them out at the start of autumn so they form buds before the frosts arrive. Plant in multi-purpose compost with a handful of grit to aid drainage. In dry spells, make sure the compost is moist to touch – plants can still dry out and die in the colder months. 

Pack the container with plants for a full display. Deadheading flowers regularly will encourage repeat blooming. For extra impact, opt for one color, rather than a mix of shades – try 'Swiss Giant Orange' for a blaze of gold, or 'Coolwave Raspberry' for a cushion of velvety plum. 

• Buy pansies in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy pansies in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

8. Heather

Whether it is a shade of white or dark pink, winter heather brings delicate beauty to your displays.

Heathers only thrive in acid soil, so buy a bag of ericaceous compost. Add a 1-2in (2.5-5cm) layer of grit at the base of the container first, as they do not like to have soggy roots. Grow them in a sunny spot, or partial shade. 

Good choices are E. carnea 'Springwood White', which has trailing stems, and E. carnea 'Springwood Pink' for a bright pop of color.

• Buy heather in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy heather in the UK: view at Crocus

9. Hellebores

The Christmas rose, or hellebore, adds a touch of romanticism in the bleaker months. They come in a subtle rainbow of colors, from pure white and dusty pink to apricot and rich purple and they can cope with cold conditions, including frost and snow. 

Hellebores are mainly evergreen, flowering in mid-winter and continuing to early spring. They can be combined with other plants in the same pot, but a simple container of one color will create maximum impact. 

Plant them in a multi-purpose compost in a container, deep enough to fit with the top of the existing compost level. Water well and place in a shady spot. 

• Buy hellebores in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy hellebores in the UK: view at Crocus

10. Scented plants

Although we associate scented plants with warm summer days, there are some cold-weather heroes which are perfect for placing by the porch for a blast of winter fragrance. 

Sweet box, or Sarcococca confusa, is a brilliant option for the best winter plants for pots. It has a profusion of tiny, spidery, white flowers on glossy evergreen leaves in the winter, which turn into black berries over summer. It's an easy-care plant, with no pruning needed. Just remove any dead sprigs in late spring. For best results, plant in John Innes No.3 compost, and make sure that the soil is kept moist. 

For a beautiful citrus scent in a pot, try winter-flowering honeysuckle (Lonicera fragrantissima) which has creamy-colored flowers on semi-bare branches. Plant in a large container for the best results.

• Buy Sarcococca confusa in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy Sarcococca confusa in the UK: view at Crocus

11. Japanese skimmia

Japanese skimmia has domes of neat evergreen foliage, and the female plants – such as 'Kew Green' or 'Rubella' – are one of the best plants with winter berries. Just ensure you pair them with a male variety, otherwise, you might not get any berries at all.

The shrubs prefer partial shade, and they will cheer up a dark spot. 

• Buy skimmia in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy skimmia in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

12. Camellia 

It's worth learning how to grow camellias for the spectacle of showy flowers. Camellias come in shades of pink, red and white, and their blooms contrast with their evergreen foliage. 

They're ideal for growing in pots to add some interest to your winter patio. But, they do need to be planted in well-drained ericaceous (acid) soil, and if possible, they should be watered with rainwater from a water butt. 

Put them in a sheltered spot near the house, and protect early buds from frost with horticultural fleece. Prune after they have flowered, and keep them well-watered through spring and summer, as this is when the buds are forming. It's definitely worth the effort, as they will reward you with a stunning display in late winter and early spring. 

• Buy camellias in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy camellias in the UK: view at Crocus

13. Cyclamen

The flag-like flowers of cyclamen offer tons of beauty and are perfect plants for winter hanging baskets as well as pots.

The ones on sale in supermarkets tend to be tender, indoor cyclamen. So, make sure you choose a hardy variety called Cyclamen coum or Cyclamen hederifolium if you're after the best plants for winter pots. Plant them at the same depth as the pots you buy them in and avoid letting the containers become waterlogged, as this will damage the roots. 

They can be bought as bulbs, but for a quick solution, ready-grown plants are inexpensive and create an instant uplift.  

• Buy cyclamen in the UK: view at Crocus

14. Snowdrops

They're among the first spring bulbs to nose through the ground in winter, and a pot or two of snowdrops delivers a welcome boost.

Snowdrop bulbs can be planted in the autumn, or they may be grown 'in the green' (with their leaves still attached) in spring for flowering the following winter. They are happiest when growing in the ground in a shady garden border or raised bed – those grown in containers will need repotting every year.

Don't forget about the greater snowdrop too (Galanthus elwesii) – it has large, honey-scented white flowers above glaucous leaves.

• Buy snowdrops in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy snowdrops in the UK: view at Amazon

15. Euonymus (Wintercreeper)

Some varieties of Euonymus fortunei are bushy, trailing or occasionally climbing evergreen shrubs and are well suited to larger containers. The best feature small, variegated leaves that turn pinkish in winter.

They are happy in sun or shade and in most soils, and pruning is rarely needed, says Graham Rice. 'Feed in spring.'

He recommends ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’ which has gold-edged leaves turning pink in winter. ‘Silver Queen’ is taller with white-edged leaves and makes a fine small specimen, he adds.

16. Vinca (Creeping Myrtle)

'Vinca minor is an exceptionally cold-hardy trailing or creeping evergreen, with neat dark foliage that is often brightly variegated,' says Graham. It has blue, purple or white flowers, a hardiness rating of USDA Z3 (RHS H6), and can grow to a height of 6-8in (15-20cm).

It's easy to please in any good container mix, but plant with caution as creeping myrtle is invasive in some areas. Tidy up with clean secateurs whenever necessary.

Graham recommends ‘Illumination’ (which has leaves splashed in gold with blue flowers), as well as ‘Ralph Shugert’ – shown above – which has silver-edged leaves and blue flowers.

17. Forced bulbs for indoors

Winter containers aren't just for outdoors. Forcing bulbs is a lovely way to brighten up your interior and enjoy spring flowers early. There are all kinds you can try, from muscari (as seen above) to narcissus and sweetly-scented hyacinths.

Hang them up, decorate a window sill, or position them on the center of your dining table – they are bound to bring joy to any onlooker.

• Buy spring bulbs in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy spring bulbs in the UK: view at Amazon

What are the best foliage plants for winter pots?

Winter containers don't have to feature flowers: as well as euonymus listed above, there is a fantastic choice of foliage plants available from garden centers or via mail order. 

Opt for interestingly-shaped, frosted foliage plants such as calocephalus. You could also go for the downy leaves of dusty miller (Senecio cineraria) or try the frivolous, frilly leaves of ornamental kale such as 'Northern Lights', which intensifies in color as temperatures plummet.

A mix of foliage plants in similar tones looks stunning in the same pot. Soften the edges with an easy-to-grow evergreen trailing ivy such as 'White Wonder'.

• Buy ornamental kale in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy ornamental cabbage in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

Some hardy varieties of ornamental grasses can also fit beautifully into a winter container. For instance, try adding a few pots of tasteful blue fescue (Festuca glauca) for a year-round display of texture and a soft blue-green color. The spiky hummocks of foliage look particularly good in galvanized zinc containers. They need moist, well-drained soil, so add a handful of grit to the compost when planting. 

• Buy Festuca glauca in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy Festuca glauca in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

What plants are good for winter pots in shade?

Even a garden that doesn't get much sun can be brightened with a container, providing you choose shade-loving plants. Try these three winter varieties:

• Skimmia japonica 'Obsession': This evergreen shrub, growing to 31.5in (80cm), has red berries in fall and winter and scented spring blooms. It grows best in moist, well-drained pots of regular or ericaceous compost in sheltered shade or semi-shade.
• Mahonia x media ‘Charity’: An evergreen shrub, 13ft (4m) in height, this plant has architectural foliage and yellow flowers that exude a beautiful scent in winter. After flowering, plant it out in humus-rich soil in shade or semi-shade.
• Hedera helix ‘Buttercup’: This slow-growing trailing ivy has lime-green and lemon-yellow leaves when positioned in a shady spot, or bolder yellow leaves in sun. Avoid overcrowding, and plant in well-drained soil. 

Where should you put a winter container in your garden?

'Think carefully about the siting of winter containers,' says Graham. 'You need to see them from the kitchen window or from the path where you pass every day, so place your containers to suit your garden layout and the most familiar sight lines.' 

It's a good idea to provide a bit of protection against winter weather, too. 'Shelter from chilly winds and rain is a help, so tuck pots into the corner of a patio, against a wall or fence or by the door,' he says.

Should you water and fertilize winter containers?

True, summer is peak time for watering plants. But your containers may still need some attention with the watering can from time to time in winter, especially after sunny or windy weather or if they are under cover.

As Graham Rice advises, it does depend somewhat on where you live. In warmer climes, where many plants in containers will continue to grow through the winter, watering and occasional fertilizing will help them thrive. Just avoid doing so if frost is forecasted, says the RHS. It's important to ensure that your containers have good drainage. Allowing plants to sit in cold, waterlogged soil will do them no good at all.

'In colder areas, where growth ceases and the soil in containers may even freeze, both watering and feeding should cease until growth starts again in the spring,' Graham says.

Learning how to grow ginger is cheap and easy, and will reward you with a fiery, yet surprisingly versatile, ingredient in the kitchen. 

Whether added to curries or stir-fries, turned into cordial, or finely grated into cakes, ginger root will give all manner of recipes a kick. Plus, it's known to have plenty of health benefits as it's packed with antioxidants. It can help settle stomachs and tackle nausea, too.

Sure, it's relatively inexpensive to buy in the supermarkets, but growing it yourself is much more fun. And, as James Wong reveals in an article for The Guardian, freshly harvested ginger is more delicate and almost floral in flavor than the usual stuff you'd buy off the shelves.

Just bear in mind that, as a tropical plant, it's not one for adding to your raised beds outdoors unless you live somewhere hot and humid. Instead, grow it as part of your indoor garden ideas on a sunny windowsill, or, in a greenhouse.

How to grow ginger in 4 simple steps

Growing ginger is 'easy enough if 
you plant live, healthy rhizomes,' says John Negus, an expert gardener from Amateur Gardening. 

Simply follow his steps below to grow these vegetables in pots:

1. Set the rhizomes 4in (10cm) apart and 4in (10cm) deep in 
an 8in (20cm) pot filled with loam-based ericaceous compost augmented with a quarter part, by volume, 
of coarse grit or perlite. Ideally, do this in spring.
2. Water in the rhizomes and stand the pot on a south or west-facing windowsill. Being tropical, they will need a minimum temperature of 70ºF (21ºC) to grow.
3. Ginger plants also need high humidity, so spray yours at least three times a week with clean rainwater. It's also a good idea to place the pots on a deep drip tray filled with coarse grit, and then, when you water, ensure the grit base is wet right through. Provided the pot sits on this gritty surface, the compost within it won’t waterlog and cause roots to rot.
4. Liquid-feed the plants weekly with a high-potash tomato fertilizer to help them grow strong.

Can you grow ginger in the ground?

Ginger is only suitable for growing in the ground outdoors in tropical climes. This means, in the US, you are unlikely to get a successful harvest unless your region has a hardiness rating of 9 or higher. 

And, if your backyard fits the temperature bill, be aware that this perennial can spread quite aggressively, so growing ginger in a pot may be a better option anyway.

However, if you want to give it a go, choose a sheltered spot with dappled shade, as would be found in its natural jungle habitat. Ensure the soil is free-draining but also nutrient-rich – dig in plenty of organic matter beforehand if necessary.

Where can you buy ginger rhizomes?

After reading the steps above, you'll see how easy learning how to grow ginger is – and getting the rhizomes in the first place is simple, too. In most cases, you'll just need to pop to your local grocery store. 

Pick a firm, healthy-looking root, labeled as 'organic'. Look for one with visible 'eyes', says James Wong for The Guardian. These are the small, yellow tips that shoots will sprout from, he explains.

How long does ginger take to grow?

To harvest bulky rhizomes, you'll need to wait at least ten months or so after sprouting for the plant to mature. Once the leaves have turned yellow and dry in fall, simply dig up the roots. If you like, you can cut off a section for replanting – just ensure it has 'eyes', as before.

It's also possible to harvest 'baby' ginger root, which is more tender with a milder taste, earlier – around four to six months after sprouting.

Whether adding this flavorful ingredient to savory or sweet dishes, peeling and freezing it for later, or using it to make your own herbal tea, be sure to wash the roots thoroughly beforehand.

How do you overwinter ginger plants?

If you've raised your ginger plant in a greenhouse and want to continue growing it into next year for more harvesting, you may need to bring it indoors for the winter months as it won't survive cold temperatures.

'New leaves will appear and replace brown ones that have suffered in too 
low a temperature,'  says John.

Our dedicated guide has more ideas on what to plant in a greenhouse for tasty crops.

The idea of choosing the best plants for winter hanging baskets might raise an eyebrow or two at first. After all, we tend to think of them as summertime features. But a vibrant cold-season display is the perfect way to bring good cheer to your garden when the temperatures drop and other blooms fade. 

In fact, winter hanging baskets are, arguably, a bit more interesting than the warm-weather versions. As a result of a bit more thought and research, you might find plants that offer more than just flowers and color, with specimens that provide eye-catching forms, wonderful foliage, or excellent textures. All of this is welcome in the winter garden, when there's not much else on show.

There are other benefits to winter displays positioned up high, too. 'Using hanging baskets is a great way to get around any restrictions which soil or sunlight may have put on your garden,' explains the team at Squire's Garden Centres. You can, in effect, use whatever soil and compost necessary, and they can be placed wherever is most optimal for what you want to grow. What's more, 'they offer protection from slugs and can accommodate a variety of different plants,' they continue. And of course, they're great for small plots where floor space is at a premium. 

Feeling tempted for your own? We've picked some of the best plants to include in your winter hanging baskets so you can create a seasonal and colorful display. Some will be familiar, and some might surprise, but there's plenty to choose from. 

Create a vibrant display with the best plants for winter hanging baskets

Whether you prefer a modern display or something more traditional for your seasonal hanging basket ideas, you'll find just what you need in our edit.

1. Primulas

Primulas come in a rainbow of colors – from the classic butter-yellow to raspberry pink, deep indigo, and blazing orange. Planted in a basket, these beauties are a surefire way to brighten up the garden throughout the colder seasons. Some varieties, such as 'Everlast', will bloom all the way from autumn through to early spring. 

Easy to look after, these winter garden plants are a winning pick for your displays. As they're perennials, you can move them to your borders once they've finished doing their thing, to make space for new plants in your containers.

• Buy primulas in the UK: view at Amazon

2. Gaultheria

The RHS agrees that gaultheria is one of the best plants for winter hanging baskets, as suggested on their website. Otherwise known as checkerberry, this jolly, evergreen plant will bring a festive feel to any scheme.

As a shade-loving plant, it's valuable in brightening up the gloomiest corners in your garden with its red berries and glossy leaves. If you choose to replace it in a few months' time, use it as ground cover in the garden. Its thick growth habit can help to suppress weeds, says Thompson & Morgan, and in summer, it will flower with white blooms.

• Buy gaultheria in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy gaultheria in the UK: view at Crocus

3. Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête'

The miniature Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête' brings delight to every gardener with its sunshine-yellow blooms. One of the earliest-flowering daffodils, it will provide color and interest towards the end of the coldest season.

Planting bulbs should be done in autumn, or buy potted plants when they appear in garden centers for instant impact.

• Buy Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête' in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy Narcissus 'Tête-à-tête' in the UK: view at Amazon

4. Cyclamen

A popular go-to plant for winter hanging baskets is cyclamen. While they're known to naturalize, looking very at home at the base of trees or in shadier areas, these perennials can provide excellent color for containers. 

The specimens of Cyclamen coum and Cyclamen hederifolium are your best bets for easy winners. They both have flowers in the pink area of the color spectrum, but C. coum will provide them for you in the early months of the year, while C. hederifolium will have you covered for pre-Christmas color and has pretty, blotched foliage.

Cyclamen are great plants for winter pots on the ground, too, so you can add some to your patio displays as well as your hanging baskets. 

• Buy cyclamen in the UK: view at Amazon

5. Skimmia

Another attractive evergreen shrub, skimmia is a useful plant for shaded winter hanging baskets and winter planters. Avoid planting these anywhere too sunny, as this can cause the foliage to turn yellow.

It's one of the best plants with winter berries, but bear in mind that only the hermaphrodite and female forms (such as Skimmia japonica subsp. reevesiana) produce them – and females need a male variety nearby to do so. 

In spring, fragrant white flowers will appear.

• Buy skimmia in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy skimmia in the UK: view at Crocus

6. Violas and pansies

A forever favorite in terms of winter-flowering plants, the vast range of winter pansies and violas are a great source of hanging basket potential. 

If you're after jewel-like colors and shades then these are an easy first port of call for the best plants for winter hanging baskets. Plus they are readily available too – there are almost too many cultivars and varieties to choose from. The Amateur Gardening team particularly suggests 'Sorbet Yellow Frost' (Sorbet Series), a compact viola that gives a long show of fragrant yellow and purple flowers during winter and spring.

They're also really easy to plant and look after, making them a great option if you're learning how to make a hanging basket for the first time. Just make sure to grow them in moist, well-drained soil in sun or semi-shade.

• Buy pansies in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy pansies in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

7. Ivy

Trailing foliage is a wonderful addition to any hanging basket. But, using ivy in winter schemes is a particularly good use of such a plant due to its attractive form and evergreen structure.

You won't go too far wrong with any of the available cultivars of Hedera helix but the variegated ones are especially lovely for offering a bit more interest. Having said that, a 'normal' ivy with its dark green, glossy leaves is just as good an accompaniment for other, more colorful plants.

• Buy ivy in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy ivy in the UK: view at Crocus

8. Heucheras

In summer, 'heuchera are great plants for hanging baskets as they create a striking two-tier effect between their flowers and foliage,' says the team at Squire's Garden Centres. And although the flowers die back when temperatures drop, their vibrant, semi-evergreen leaves make them one of the best plants for winter color. They're definitely not one to overlook for displays if you live in a milder region.

'Their low mounding habit means they work brilliantly in any container,' says Squire's. They suggest 'Appletini' which has vibrant lime-green leaves. If you prefer a warmer tone, 'Paprika' sports a festive red hue, whilst 'Silver Gumdrop' has an elegant, frosty appearance.

• Buy heucheras in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy heucheras in the UK: view at Crocus

9. Hellebores

Hellebores are a fabulous winter bloom and come in a spectrum of shades – from bright white to soft greens and blush. They're good for pollinators, too, once spring rolls around.

Try Helleborus niger, otherwise known as the Christmas rose, which produces white saucer flowers and has big, dark-green semi-evergreen leaves, explains the team at Amateur Gardening. Grow in moist, well-drained soil in a sheltered spot with semi-shade.

Alternatively, opt for 'Winterbells' – a subtly pink-flushed bloom. It looks lovely planted alongside heather. If you want something more dramatic, the deep-toned 'Double Ellen Purple' makes a good pick – try planting alongside snowdrops or silvery foliage for a striking contrast.

Whichever you choose, plant it out into your borders once flowering has finished to enjoy the display the following year.

• Buy hellebores in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy hellebores in the UK: view at Crocus

10. Ornamental cabbage

With their frilly leaves and eye-catching colors of purple, deep green and snowy white, ornamental cabbages are easily one of the best plants for winter hanging baskets. You can grow these plants from seed in early summer in pots before hardening off and planting up – the pink pigment will begin to develop when temperatures reach below 50˚F (10˚C).

They can survive most winters without trouble, right down to temperatures of around 5˚F (-15˚C). Hang the baskets in a sunny spot if you can.

• Buy ornamental cabbage in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy ornamental cabbage in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

11. Snowdrops

The genus of Galanthus is a tremendous one to consider for winter hanging baskets. Now with a bigger range than ever before, you can get hold of snowdrops that can bloom as early as autumn, but also throughout the winter months, and into spring, too. 

Galanthus woronowii is a good one for a display just after Christmas, sporting solitary flowers that often have a distinct green spot on the inner tepals. 

• Buy snowdrops in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy snowdrops in the UK: view at Amazon

12. Ferns

Ferns are a wonderful foliage option to plant alongside flowers, or to provide a bold winter hanging basket display in their own right. Specimens such as hart's tongue fern (Asplenium scolopendrium) and soft shield fern (Polystichum setiferum) are your go-to species to keep things safe. 

The evergreen leaves can provide a great backdrop to colorful blooms. Plus, the sword-like fronds and overall form of the plants make them a great structural addition to the winter garden, as many are easily hardy enough to survive the coldest of conditions. 

• Buy ferns in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy ferns in the UK: view at Crocus

13. Heather

The winter-flowering specimens of the Erica carnea species, in particular, are excellent picks for winter hanging baskets. These low-growing, tough and hardy plants can provide textural mats of foliage while flowering in a variety of colors from pinks to whites to purples. 

If you have time to search for particular plants, 'Ann Sparkes' is a lovely choice for rose- and purple-pinks, 'Challenger' is a vivid magenta-flowering variety, and 'Golden Starlet' is a terrific white-flowered choice. 

What's more, heathers are also one of the best bee-friendly plants come springtime, but, importantly, you'll have to remember some ericaceous compost to get the best out of them.

• Buy heather in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy heather in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

14. Sedges

A wonderful type of ornamental grass, sedges (Carex) plants can offer a range of colors but the real magic to be gained by adding them to winter hanging baskets is in their texture and form. 

One of my personal favorites – and one that is easy to get hold of – is Carex testacea, the orange New Zealand sedge. However, the Japanese sedge selections, such as 'Fiwhite', are almost even better as they stay slightly smaller, perfect for hanging basket displays. 

Each sword of a sedge plant offers the opportunity for great textural contrast against 'softer' or more traditional plants and the evergreen nature means that form and texture will be there to stay, all year round. 

• Buy sedge grass in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy sedge grass in the UK: view at Crocus

15. Crocuses

No list of the best plants for winter hanging baskets would be complete without crocuses – and these will keep coming up every year by being reliable perennials. 

There are plenty of purple-pink specimens to choose from, but also some striking yellow ones that can add pops of bright color. 

Really early winter flowering plants are a bit more tricky to come by but the 'Mount Athos' crocus gives it a good go, and something like 'Romance' will bring you late winter color (and into spring) with its bright yellow bursts.

• Buy crocuses in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy crocuses in the UK: view at Amazon

16. Winter irises

There are several winter irises that will provide you with excellent color year on year in your winter hanging baskets. The reticulata cultivars are particularly good ones to search for as they are reliable late-winter color providers. 

Like the crocuses, they span a few color ranges but your best bet for winter hanging baskets are going to be ones that provide blue and purple shades, like Iris reticulata itself, or 'Blue Note' which is more of a dark purple kind of affair. 'Harmony', shown above, is also a lovely choice. 

• Buy winter iris in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy winter iris in the UK: view at Crocus

Planting ideas for winter hanging baskets

Some of the best plants for winter hanging baskets look especially fabulous when combined. It's a simple duo – but cyclamen and variegated ivy has to be one of our favorites. The deep green foliage and vivid pink petals are lifted by the trailing pale-hued leaves, and the overall look feels structural yet romantic. Choose a basket where you can plant up the sides as well as the top, for a fuller display. 

If just two varieties feels a little too minimal, an ornamental grass in the center will add height and additional visual interest.

There are so many beautiful foliage plants you can use in winter hanging baskets as well as ivy. Hebes, hardy sedums, and the silvery Calocephalus brownii are some of the best, or choose winter plants with frosted foliage for an elegant look.

Try combining a selection with heather (either pink or white) for an eye-catching result, whilst lining the basket itself with moss will give an organic feel.

When should you plant a winter hanging basket?

'To ensure your flowers bloom in good time, we advise planting before winter arrives,' says the team at Squire's Garden Centres. Ideally, you want to get planting in early fall to give your flowers the best time to bloom, they advise, 'this will ensure your hard work and investment pays off.'

How often should you water a winter hanging basket?

In general, you'll need to spend less time watering plants in winter as their growth rate is slower and there tends to be more rain. However, hanging baskets dry out quicker than other types of containers (especially if they're under cover), so you will still need to water them now and again to keep them looking their best. Once a week should be enough, but check the soil first – too much can lead to waterlogging. Use rainwater if possible as it's better for the plants.

If you're short on time, the RHS suggests using self-watering baskets. They still need watering now and again, but less frequently. The water then goes into a separate reservoir that gradually supplies the plants' roots when needed. 

How do you make a winter hanging basket?

Planting a winter hanging basket is super easy and a fun job to while away an autumn afternoon. Squire's Garden Centres shares their top tips on how to do it:

1. Place your basket on a bucket to keep it steady whilst you plant.
2. Line your basket. Some baskets have a ready-made liner or if you need to line, you can do so with materials such as plastic or moss.
3. Once lined, snip a few drainage holes into the lining (if plastic). Then fill the basket two-thirds full with compost. It is advisable to add a handful of controlled-release fertilizer granules and water-retaining gel to your mix.
4. Use one plant for every inch (2.5–3cm) of basket diameter when constructing your hanging basket. Start with a central plant to create structure and impact.
5. Plant trailing plants, such as ivy, around the edge. Angle them slightly but ensure that their roots are still covered by the compost. A nice touch is to plant some ivy near the chain and weave it around – this will make it look like the ivy is supporting the basket.
6. Once you've finished positioning your plants, fill the gaps with compost and firm in gently.
7. Hang the basket somewhere that's sheltered from the wind and water well.

Looking for more advice for pepping up your backyard through the colder months? Our guide on how to plant a winter container is well worth a look.

Pruning camellias isn't a crucial task when it comes to caring for these stunning shrubs. But, done properly, it does have its benefits.

If you've already learned how to grow camellias and have one of these structural plants in your backyard, you'll know the value they bring. An evergreen, they'll provide glossy foliage all year long, and will happily grow in shadier spots, whether in the ground or in a container. But of course, it's their blooms that really steal the show, lighting up the winter garden in shades of pink, red and white.

Sometimes, these shrubs can outgrow their space or start to look straggly. And occasionally, very old plants need their vitality restored. Pruning camellias can help – and our tips explain how.

When is the best time for pruning camellias?

Pruning camellias is a spring garden job, to be done right after the shrubs have finished flowering but before new buds break (usually in late spring). Doing so at this time reduces the risk of cutting off new growth, which means you'll still get plenty of blooms the following season, explains the experts at Thompson & Morgan.

If you plan to cut yours back hard to rejuvenate it, however, do so in early spring. Bear in mind that it can be a couple of years for camellias to flower to their full potential after this, says the RHS.

Pruning camellias to reduce their size

Sometimes, these winter flowering shrubs can start taking up too much space, particularly in a small garden. If yours is beginning to get in the way, you can trim it back 12in (30cm) or so to a more manageable size. Exposing the soil beneath can also be beneficial as it makes it easier to apply fertilizer and mulch.

'It doesn’t matter where 
you start – top or bottom,' says John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 'The important thing is to maintain a rounded symmetry.

'Use sharp secateurs and, ideally, cut to just above a leaf,' he continues. The sharpness of your pruning tool is important: 'A sharp cut will heal quicker than a jagged cut, which will also minimize the likelihood of disease investing a cut during pruning,' explains the experts at the American Camellia Society.

While you've got your secateurs handy, remove any dead or diseased branches, too. You can also cut out crisscrossing branches to reduce congestion if necessary – this will improve airflow and help light to filter through, which encourages a healthier plant.

Once you've finished pruning camellias, strong new shoots should soon appear.

Pruning old camellia plants to restore them

There are lots of stunning types of camellias to brighten up backyards. But, after a few years of growth, established shrubs can start to look tired and lackluster. You can prune them back hard to give them a new lease of life, however, it's important to go slowly.

Pruning a camellia to regenerate it is best done in stages over two or three years, says the Amateur Gardening experts.

After sharpening and cleaning your pruning shears, cut back up to one-third of the stems. 'The new shoots will come from the point at which the stem was cut.

'The following year, another third of the stems can be cut back, and the year after, the remaining third,' they explain.

Pruning young camellia plants to improve their shape

Pruning camellias can also help younger plants establish a bushy, desirable form.

'Young plants often develop a leggy appearance and benefit from formative pruning to encourage branching, a dense habit and a good shape,' says John.

'Reduce the weakest and leggiest stems to two 
or three buds from their point of origin. New growth is likely to come from just below the pruning cuts, so you might also choose to cut back some of the other stems to encourage a good shape.'

Have you heard of hollyhock rust? If you're growing these glorious spires of colorful blooms along the back of a border, fence, or wall, then you'll need to get the lowdown on this common problem.

A fungal disease with an unsightly appearance, it will quickly spoil perennial plants and reduce their impressive impact, whether you're using them as part of your cottage garden ideas or in a modern, urban yard. However, there are a few ways to treat it and prevent it from taking hold in the first place – if you spot it quickly enough.

What is hollyhock rust?

Hollyhock rust is a disease spread by windblown spores of Puccinia malvacearum, which can travel long distances, explains John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. It also affects other members of the mallow family, including hibiscus, abutilon, lavatera, malvastrum and sidalcea.

'It presents as bright orange or yellow spots on upper leaf surfaces, with darker spore-producing pustules on the underside,' John continues. 'It tends to start low and work up the plant, also contaminating stems.' Hollyhock plants that are badly affected by rust tend to lose their leaves entirely. 

How to prevent hollyhock rust

There are varieties of plants that are resistant to certain diseases, such as 'Jasper' tomatoes and tomato blight. Unfortunately, this isn't the case with hollyhocks and rust.

There are some environmental factors that will help keep it away from your plants, though. As it thrives in humid conditions, it is a good idea to avoid planting your hollyhocks too closely to each other or to other plants, says the RHS. They also suggest avoiding over-wet or over-dry soil conditions to encourage good root development – something to bear in mind when watering your plants.

You can also help your plants ward off this disease by spraying them with a fungicide before any rusty red spots appear, and continuing to do so throughout the growing season. 

Fungus Fighter (available on Amazon) is a systemic control that will protect them for up to three weeks, as suggested by John. He also recommends Scotts FungusClear Ultra – again, on Amazon – that will guard your plants against attack for around three months.

Alongside using fungicides and monitoring the environment, there's another solution for rust in hollyhocks: to treat all of your plants as biennials or even as annuals, rather than perennials. After all, even if they stay rust-free, they can still look rather tatty after the first year or so.

But, if you really want to try and keep them for more than one season, cut them right back to the soil and remove all plant matter in the autumn, says John. Doing so may help delay the disease’s arrival next year, as the fungus overwinters on infected plant debris.

How to treat hollyhock rust

Keep a keen eye out for symptoms on your plants. Should you spot them, remove and destroy affected plant material immediately – either by binning (not in your compost) or burning, says John. Often it is only the basal leaves that are affected – particularly if you catch it early.

Remember to wash your secateurs afterward, to avoid spreading the disease further.

Creating new garden borders is always exciting. But, there are a few factors to bear in mind before you start adding plants to your plot.

Even within the same garden, beds can have different growing conditions. And some plants will be better suited than others. You'll also need to think about the best size, shape, and location for your border, and how you can get them looking great all year round.

We've rounded up everything you need to know. So, if you're looking to update your garden design ideas with new beds, this advice will help make sure they're a success rather than a disappointment.

Get beautiful garden borders with this easy guide

Creating beautiful garden borders isn't too tricky once you've got the know-how. These tips are sure to give you a helping hand.

1. Consider your soil type

Soil type is a key consideration when planning new garden borders. Your soil might be clay, sandy, chalky, or loam. Each of those possibilities comes with specific characteristics that some plants will love, but others won’t tolerate. And, although it’s possible to change or improve the soil a little, it’s always better to choose plants that will be happy with what you’ve originally got. 

You'll also need to check whether you have acid, alkaline or neutral soil, which also has implications for the best plants to choose. You can do this with a simple soil pH testing kit, available online (try Amazon) or from a garden center.

2. Work out how much sun your garden borders get

You also need to work out whether your garden borders are going to be in full sun, or in part or full shade (and if it’s shady, whether it’s dry shade or damp shade). This will have as much of an impact on the plants that will thrive there as the kind of soil you have. 

To be classed as being in ‘full sun’, a border needs to get more than six hours of direct sun every day in summer. ‘Part shade’ means between four and six hours of sun every day, while a ‘shady’ border is in sun for zero to four hours a day. 

Don't worry too much if your garden border gets limited sunshine, however. There are plenty of beautiful, shade-loving plants that will thrive in these conditions. 

3. Think about the size and shape of your new garden borders

Another important step in planning garden borders is to decide on how big they're going to be, and what shape. This will largely depend on the size of your plot, but also the style of your garden and how much time you have available for maintenance.

For instance, large, billowing borders with soft, curved edges are well-suited to a cottage garden. However, if you're looking to create a smart divide between a patio and lawn in an urban, contemporary garden, a smaller, neater, rectangular bed may be better suited.

It's a good idea to map out the design, using a length of string or a garden hose, before you start digging. Think about how you're going to access plants for maintenance, too – it may be that you need to add a small stepping stone path to meander through a particularly large bed, for instance. 

There's also garden edging to think about, which is useful in keeping soil, plants, and mulch in their place as well as adding to the overall look.

4. Choose the best plants

Now for the fun part! Once you know the soil and sun conditions you’re dealing with, and how large your border is going to be, you can draw up a long list of suitable plants. Use the information on plant labels, the internet, books, and magazines to find out which plants are likely to work best for you.

If there are particular plants you already have your heart set on, research the conditions they like before you commit to including them. Think about how much time you have to spend on garden jobs too – if you don't have much to spare, opt for low-maintenance garden border plants. And, if you want to encourage plenty of pollinators into your garden, be sure to include lots of bee-friendly plants.

When choosing, it also pays to think long-term and include a succession of seasonal stars so that your border has year-round color. And, you need supporting acts for your seasonal divas, too. So, add in a good proportion of plants that perform well over a long period of time, whether that’s because they have an extended flowering season, seedheads that stay in place over winter, or just because they have good structure all year.

Take the tall, upright grass Calamagrostis ‘Karl Foerster’, for example. Plant something like this with veronicastrum, sanguisorba, and nepeta for summer; asters, rudbeckias, and heleniums for later in the year; and then low-growing irises and primroses for spring.

5. Pick a theme

If you already have a garden color scheme in mind, you’ve got a head start. But, if you’re undecided on the look and feel you want to go for, the ideal planting scheme will become easier to home in on once you’ve drawn up a list of potential candidates that will thrive in the conditions on offer. 

Think about the overall vibe of your garden, too. A modern plot may suit more muted, structural plants with plenty of architectural foliage, or perhaps a cottage or Mediterranean garden scheme is more your style.

6. Maximize the impact of your borders with different heights

There are some tips and tricks you can apply when planning the layout of your garden border planting ideas – and one is to consider different heights. One or two plants that stand head and shoulders above the rest will draw the eye and give it somewhere to rest, making it easier to take in everything else. 

In larger borders, the best trees for small gardens can take on this role (crab apples, for example, which have a naturally attractive, open shape and lots of character). In smaller spaces, large shrubs or perennials, such as ornamental grasses or the taller varieties of salvia, are ideal. Gardening guru Monty Don is a huge fan of using salvias for show-stopping late summer displays.

To give the border a sense of rhythm and cohesion, try repeating tall ornamental grasses or shrubs such as wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) three or four times at intervals, as punctuation. And there’s no need to relegate these taller plants to the back of the border, especially if you choose those that have an overall ‘see-through’ character. Take lofty, airy Verbena bonariensis for example, or those that have clear stems – these too can act as punctuation points.

7. Build up a pattern

Once you’ve chosen your plants, having a clear planting plan from the start will produce a much better end result than randomly putting in plants wherever there’s a gap. Lay them out when they're still in their pots to get an idea of what the final result will look like before you plant them.

It’s worth knowing a few tricks of the trade as you do so. For example, garden designers often get breathtaking results by grouping plants of the same variety in threes or fives, then using ‘filler plants’ to hold the groups together visually. 

Then, to give your border a more relaxed, natural feel, it works well to offset a few single plants outside of these groups of three or five. You might, for example, have a swathe of persicaria in the center of the border and then weave in single persicaria plants on their own towards the back. The impression this gives is of them having self-sown there.

Airy ornamental grasses like deschampsia and molinia make perfect fillers and their veil-like, transparent quality makes them very versatile. Or, you may prefer to employ the more solid shapes of evergreens as your fillers – the choice is yours.

8. Design the perfect backdrop

Most garden borders have a boundary wall or garden fence as their backdrop. These can be things of beauty in their own right and complement the planting in front. For instance, a lick of charcoal paint can help lush foliage and vibrant blooms really stand out.

If you'd rather disguise yours, however, you can help it recede from view by training climbers up and over them. Finding out how to grow clematis, honeysuckle and passionflower is a good idea if the boundary gets a reasonable amount of sun during the day. 

There are lots more good planting picks for fence lines, including tall grasses, shrubs, or even a row of slender silver birches or pleached trees. Just be sure to keep anything you plant well-watered until it’s established, as walls and fences tend to create 'dry rain shadows'.

How do you make a new garden border?

Ready to add your new garden borders? It's time to grab your best garden spade or fork and get digging: just follow these steps and you'll have a fabulous new flower bed in no time.

1. 'Start by clearing the area, digging out the dead shrubs, brambles and nettles, and removing any debris and stones,' says John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. You may also need to cut out and remove sections of turf. Be sure to get rid of any weeds, too.
2. Dig organic matter, such as some garden compost, into the soil to add nutrients and improve its structure. 'Then, smooth the surface, removing bumps and filling hollows,' says John.
3. If you want to keep weeds to a minimum, lay a heavy-duty weed-control membrane over the entire area, pegging it down, John suggests. You can then cover it with bark chips, gravel, pebbles or slate chips. Plant up the area by scraping back the bark or whatever else you have used and cutting X-shaped slits through the membrane to plant though, he says.
4. Alternatively, skip the membrane and add your plants directly into the soil. Remember to consider how large each plant will get once it's grown to its full size, so give each enough space around it.
5. Once you have planted your plants, firm them in with soil and water well. If you haven't done so already, add mulch to retain moisture.

When is the best time to plant a garden border?

'The best time to plant shrubs 
and perennials depends on the prevailing weather conditions and soil structure,' says John Negus. 'If your garden is prone to 
early frosts and prolonged cold, and 
if the soil is heavy and likely to sit wet, then you are probably wise to leave planting until spring.'

However, if feasible, planting in autumn can have its benefits. The soil will still be warm from summer but is also likely to be moist. And, it means that plants will have six to eight weeks of root growth available, when they can start to make themselves at home before winter weather hits.

If you're wondering how to grow dahlias, then you've come to the right place. After falling out of fashion for a while, these beautiful blooms have staged a big comeback and their newfound popularity shows no sign of waning. After all, these incredibly varied plants offer something for everyone.

Dahlias are totally versatile, too – you can plant them in borders, grow compact cultivars in containers, or treat them as a cutting-flower crop for show-stopping displays indoors. And, they can also be very good value for money – a single dahlia tuber can produce blooms from the middle of summer right through to the first frosts.

Whether you want to fill your flower beds or just test out one or two varieties of these stunning blooms in pots, they're a fail-safe option for gardens big and small. 

'Anyone who grows dahlias will know they start flowering in mid-summer but are at their best during late summer and fall, delivering masses of blooms right up until the first frosts,' says Amateur Gardening's Anne Swithinbank. 'Originally from the uplands of Mexico and the narrow strip of countries where North and South America connect, these equatorial plants enjoy plenty of sun, cool weather and hit peak performance when the hours of night and day are similar. Plant dahlias and you will have a brilliant late show in the garden and masses of blooms for cutting.' 

How to recognize dahlias

Dahlias are our most flamboyant summer flowers. Their blooms vary in size from small single flowers shaped like daisies to dinner plate dahlias with fully double flowers 12in (30cm) across.

Strong growing, fleshy shoots grow from dahlia bulbs (technically tubers) shaped like a collection of very fat fingers connected at one end – where the shoots develop. Hollow stems carry bold divided foliage which is usually dark green but which, in some of the most useful garden varieties, is heavily bronzed. From early summer the fat buds burst into bloom and the flowers can keep coming until the first frost of fall.

They're outstanding in a sunny border, superb – and very fashionable – as cutting garden flowers, and dwarf types are ideal for patio containers.

Dahlias are classified into 17 different groups – yes, 17! – mainly on the shape of their flowers. Most groups are then again divided by flower size.

At one end of the scale are the Single types of dahlias with each flower made up of a ring of petals around a bold golden eye. Usually less than 4in (10cm) across, Single dahlias come in a good range of rich and pastel colors, have a natural simplicity and are popular with pollinators.

At the other extreme, Decorative dahlias have fully double flowers with no eye visible. There may be hundreds of petals in one flower, each one flat, or slightly turned in at the edges, and in a fantastic range of flower colors. The flowers vary in size from less than 4in (10cm) to over 10in (25cm).

How to plant dahlias

Dahlias, which grow fresh from tubers every year, aren’t very good at pushing up through herbaceous plants. So, if you're growing them in a garden border, it's best to give them their own bit of space. 

'Planting tubers around 4-5in (10-12cm) deep in prepared ground during mid-spring is the most straightforward method,' says Anne Swithinbank. 'Remember though that dahlias dislike crowding and need space to develop. If you want earlier flowers, plant tubers in pots under glass in early spring for planting after danger of frost.' 

Garden expert Tamsin Hope Thomson for Amateur Gardening shares her top tips for planting dahlia tubers:

1. Pick a spot that gets plenty of sun (especially important if you want to leave the tubers in the ground over winter), with well-draining soil.
2. Dig a square hole around 12in (30cm) wide and deep, and space out your tubers about 24in (60cm) apart.
3. Then, fill it back up with compost. Keep the compost on the dry side until signs of growth appear, then water more frequently.
4. The most successful dahlias also have a good supply of well-rotted manure placed around the base soon after planting. Whether you've done this or not, the plants should also be fed every few weeks throughout the growing season. Alternate between a seaweed tonic and a potash-rich tomato feed.

How to grow dahlias in pots

Dahlias are great for container gardening ideas. Those specially developed for pots, including the Happy Single Series, are particularly effective. Start off your dahlia bulbs in small pots, grow them on and then use them as the centerpiece for large containers (even up to 2ft/60cm across). Treat dahlias bought in flower in the same way.

Use moist, fresh container planting mix, set your dahlia in the center first, then plant bushier summer flowers around the edge. They not only will provide contrast or harmony in color but will also hide the base of the dahlia where the leaves sometimes die off.

Growing dahlias from seed

'Growing dahlias from seed is a great way of enjoying plenty of plants cheaply and easily,' says Anne Swithinbank. 

'To grow flowers from seed, sow seeds thinly and evenly in spring, cover very lightly with compost or vermiculite and germinate at 65˚F (18˚C). Transplant seedlings singly to pots, grow on, and plant outdoors in late spring or early summer. Go for something like "Bishop’s Children", which delivers a pleasing mixture of single flowers against dark foliage, plus you can save the tubers of favorite colors.'

When should you plant dahlias?

Dahlias are tender plants, so it's important to keep them protected from frosts. Because of this, it's generally best to start tubers off undercover in your greenhouse, or even a DIY cold frame in early or mid-spring. Then plant them out once the temperatures outdoors are reliably warmer – generally around late spring to early summer. 

Remember to harden them off before planting, by standing the pots outside in the garden for a week or two so they can gradually acclimatize to the outdoor conditions. 

Dahlias care tips

The beauty of dahlias is that they're not overly demanding, so can be added to your plot as part of your low maintenance garden ideas. However, they do require the right care at the right time to keep them happy. 

During the summer and early fall months, your dahlias care routine should include watering them regularly throughout dry spells. Remember to feed them, too. 

Don't be afraid to cut flowers off for displaying indoors because this will actually help your dahlias. Regular picking encourages them to keep on producing flowers – what a win! Deadheading dahlias regularly is also advised, plus make sure you check for pests and signs of other diseases.

Staking dahlias for added support as they grow

Some dahlias are taller than others, which means they'll need a little more support to stop them from toppling over. It's worth knowing these tips:

1. Dahlias can be very brittle at their base, meaning whole stems are easily broken if it's windy.
2. Ideally, plants should be staked at the time of planting in late spring to early summer.
3. Use bamboo canes to support the plants and tie the stems with twine at 12in (30cm) intervals. If you haven't done this already, make sure you do so as soon as possible, as your dahlias get taller.
4. Be careful not to damage the roots as you insert the canes, and make sure they are as close to the plant base as possible.
5. Larger plants may need several stakes. Continue to tie in the stems as the plants grow taller for added support.

Taking cuttings from dahlias

As with all flowers, taking cuttings from plants is a fantastic way to get new plants for free. Gardening expert Ruth Hayes of Amateur Gardening shares her step-by-step tips for taking cuttings from dahlias. 

1. Mix seed compost with perlite in a 4in clay pot, then add a little water to dampen it.
2. Using a clean knife or your best secateurs, remove just a few strong shoots from your dahlia plant, each at about 4in (10cm) in length.
3. Remove the lower leaves, otherwise they may rot when you pot your cuttings up.
4. Dip the ends of your cuttings in rooting compound – this will help to promote strong and healthy root growth.
5. Insert the cuttings into the compost and perlite mix and carefully firm them in.
6. Seal the newly potted cuttings in a plastic bag and place somewhere light and warm – such as in your greenhouse or on a sunny windowsill. New roots will soon begin to develop.

How do you get bigger blooms on your dahlias?

To get good, long dahlia stems and larger (but fewer) flowers, cut off all side growths 24in (60cm) below the growing tip. This allows plenty of stem for cutting, if you want to arrange them in vases indoors. And, it also allows lower shoots to go on growing to produce replacement stems. 

Another tip to ensure show-stopping blooms is to retain just the top bud and pinch out all the other flower buds immediately below.

What should you do with dahlias in winter?

'In colder regions and for ease of management, it is best to lift tubers after foliage has been blackened by the first frosts,' says Anne Swithinbank. 'Dry and store them frost-free, covered by slightly moistened old compost or sand.'

If you're in a warmer part of the world, you don't have to lift the tubers. 'In milder regions, dahlias can withstand most winters in the ground under a dry mulch of leaves or bark,' explains Anne Swithinbank. 'However, they might be late into flower and sometimes large, old tubers lose vigor.'

If you're going to leave tubers in the ground, the best method is to simply cut back the plants and then apply a layer of mulch or compost to the crowns for extra insulation. Our guide to mulching has more info should you need it.

Problems to look out for with dahlias

As with most plants, a few problems can arise. Here are some to look out for:

1. Dahlias can be prone to pests including snails and aphids, so check them regularly for signs of infestations. Pick off snails or catch them in beer traps. You can use chemicals to get rid of aphids, but a more environmentally-friendly option is to introduce natural predators such as ladybirds and hoverflies. Our guide on how to get rid of aphids is full of useful advice. 
2. Earwigs can also be a pest to watch out for when growing dahlias. You can collect them in simple paper traps. Crumple up newspaper and place in an upturned flower pot that can sit on top of your stakes. This attracts the earwigs and keeps them off the plants.
3. Diseases such as powdery mildew can be a problem for dahlias. You can improve your chances of prevention by removing dead and damaged foliage before it starts rotting and by creating good airflow around plants.

Are dahlias deer resistant?

No, dahlias are not deer-resistant plants. They're not the favorite deer food, but if deer come across your dahlias they will probably eat them. 

If you have deer in your area the best way to protect your dahlias is to install a fence. This will protect your whole yard and allow you to grow whatever you like – with no trouble from the deer at all.

Spray-on deer deterrents can work, but repeated application is necessary to maintain the protection and summer thunderstorms can wash the treatment off and leave your dahlias vulnerable.

Is there such a thing as a black dahlia?

Black plants always make a statement in a garden. There are some dahlia varieties with flowers that can seem black – but look closely and you will usually see that they are, in fact, very very dark maroon.

‘Karma Choc’, and the smaller flowered ‘Arabian Knight’, are favorites in this color, and listed by many dahlia suppliers. ‘Black Beauty’ is also worth looking for and, although it has a big golden eye, the ring of petals around it is as close to black as you can get.

How to buy dahlias

There are a few different ways to buy dahlias. The easiest is to start with dahlia tubers, which can be bought individually, packed in plastic bags at garden centers and other retail outlets. 

A far wider range of tubers is available by mail order from bulb specialists and from dahlia specialists as well as from nurseries offering a general range. The best plan is to order in summer and fall, for delivery in spring. Suppliers will usually time the shipping of your dahlia bulbs in line with planting time in your area.

Dahlias can be grown from seed, although the results are unpredictable, and dahlias are also sold in large pots, in flower, in some retail outlets.

Some mail-order suppliers also sell rooted dahlia cuttings, for growing on in a frost-free place before planting out after the last frost. Young dahlia plants are also offered by some suppliers, these are garden-ready and should be delivered around planting time.

Where to buy dahlias

If you want to add some of these fabulous flowers to your own backyard, our quicklinks below will help you start your search.

Where to buy dahlias in the US:

• Buy dahlias at Walmart
• Buy dahlias at Amazon
• Buy dahlias at Lowes
• Buy dahlias at Summer Dreams Farm
• Buy dahlias at Golden Rod Gardens
• Buy dahlias at Triple Wren Farms

Where to buy dahlias in the UK:

• Buy dahlias at Amazon
• Buy dahlias at Crocus
• Buy dahlias at Dobies 
• Buy dahlias at Suttons
• Buy dahlias at Thompson & Morgan
• Buy dahlias at You Garden

Pruning tree peonies is the best way to ensure you'll see plenty of lovely blooms each year. 

These woody-stemmed shrubs produce large flowers in the spring, thanks to their stems not dying back over winter like herbaceous peonies do. However, if you don't prune the tree peony stems from time to time, there's a chance they'll get leggy over the ensuing years and won't have as profitable a growth. 

Even beginner gardeners can learn how to care for these types of peonies, though. The tree peony actually does well with a bit of neglect!

Top tips for pruning tree peonies

Luckily, when it comes to how to prune tree peonies, there's little effort required. The main tasks you need to accomplish are deadheading the spent blossoms, and removing any dead wood by cutting back to a healthy bud.

John Negus of Amateur Gardening magazine tells us to use your best secateurs, pre-sharpened, to remove the tree peony’s faded blooms. 'If you leave a plant to produce seeds, energy is channelled away from strong new growth,' he says. Make your cuts just above new growth.

You can also cut a few stems back to ground level if you'd like to reduce the size of the tree peony. Leggy stems can be cut back by a third, adds the RHS.

'After pruning, feed with a general fertilizer, such as fish, blood and bone meal, Vitax Q4 or Growmore,' says John. Additionally, he suggests nourishing your plant, monthly, until early fall, with flower-inducing sulfate of potash. 'Sprinkle it at 1oz (28g) per square meter around the plant and water it in.'

When should you prune a tree peony? 

If you're cutting back woody stems, John Negus says, 'The best time to prune a tree peony is in early spring. Any later and it may bleed, which will weaken it. Admittedly, you will have to sacrifice some of its enchanting blooms, but it will be easier to manage.'

Deadheading flowers can be done in the summer, or, as the RHS says, in autumn if you wish to collect the seeds first.

Tree peonies grow rather slowly, producing only a few inches of woody growth each year. With that in mind, avoid pruning in the first couple of years to allow the plant to establish itself – and wait to plant them in either spring or fall so they don't have to experience any intense summer heat. 

How to get a peony tree to bloom 

The best conditions for a tree peony are protection from winds, relatively dry soil and some dappled shade in the afternoon. They also need good drainage to avoid becoming waterlogged.

Sometimes, there might be issues with a tree peony producing flowers. If your peonies are not blooming, try cutting a few old stems back to ground level to encourage more growth. You also may have planted the peony too deep. In which case, wait until the dormant season in fall and gently replant at less depth. 

Our advice on gardening for beginners will help you feel more prepared if you're new to planting, sowing, and growing, but want to have a go.

For those who haven't got much experience, the whole concept can feel a little overwhelming. With so many plants to choose from, let alone learn how to care for, it can be hard to know where to start. Plus, although there are plenty of ways to cut costs, the idea of putting all that hard work and time in to be left with lackluster results can be a bit off-putting.

However, with a plan, the best plants for beginners, and a bit of trial and error, you'll find that your green-fingered efforts are well worth it – and gardening isn't as scary as it may first seem. And, not only will you be rewarded with a beautiful space to relax in and fresh flowers and veggies to enjoy indoors, but you're also likely to feel the benefits on your mental and physical wellbeing.

Our top 8 tips for gardening for beginners

Once you've got to grips with these basics, growing a garden isn't too tricky.

1. Get to know the different types of plants

One of the first things to bear in mind when starting a garden is the difference between annuals vs perennials.

Annuals are the shortest-living type of plant. They are often cheap and easy to grow and bloom prolifically. Wildflowers such as poppies and cornflowers are a good example, as are sweet peas and cosmos.

Perennials, on the other hand, continue to grow and bloom year after year, so are worth investing in.

There are biennials, too, which take two years to complete their lifecycle. They will grow in year one, then flower, set seed, and die in year two. Examples include foxgloves.

2. Choose easy-care plants that are suitable for your space

Knowing the difference between annuals, perennials, and biennials will help you choose a good selection for your yard, but that's not the only thing you need to bear in mind.

Different plants have different needs to grow well. Not taking these needs into consideration when picking out varieties and putting them in your garden is likely to lead to disappointment, and probably wasted cash.

The key factors are how much sun they need, and the type of soil. For instance, some drought-tolerant plants will need plenty of sun and well-draining soil to thrive, while shade-loving plants will do just fine in damper, gloomier spots. Look at your outdoor space carefully and be sure to choose plants that will suit the conditions before you buy. Buying low-maintenance plants is also a good move, as they tend to be less fussy and will thrive with minimal ongoing care.

There is also hardiness to consider, which refers to how well they can withstand lower temperatures.

'Possibly one of the most confusing things for beginners is understanding about hardy plants,' says the experts at Hartley Botanic. 'When it comes to winter in the UK, anything you want to keep growing really needs to be fully hardy – and that means it can withstand temperatures down to about -15°C, i.e. very cold.

'If you are sowing any seeds from late autumn to late winter, they must be hardy to grow on. And even if you germinate seeds in a heated propagator, if they’re not fully hardy, they just won’t survive the cold.' Naturally, this can reduce what you can grow somewhat. A greenhouse can create a protected climate and help plants grow slowly through winter, they add, especially if it can be kept frost-free. There are other ways to protect plants from winter, too.

The US is divided into hardiness zones, which makes it easy to choose plants that are suitable for your region.

3. Utilize container gardening

Container gardening is a great way to get into growing your own flowers and crops and will instantly brighten a patio. They're quick to plant up, and as you can move them around and fill them with compost rather than relying on garden soil, you can create a very controlled environment. 

There are lots to choose from to fill them with – we've listed our best container plants in our dedicated guide – plus you can grow vegetables in pots, too. Just remember to keep on top of watering them, as they tend to dry out quicker than garden borders or flower beds. It's also important to pick planters with drainage holes. If the pot has only one central hole, add crocks at the bottom of the pot, says the RHS – this will stop soil from falling out of it. Adding fertilizer is also helpful in giving plants a boost. Use a high-nitrogen liquid feed if plants look yellow or tired, adds the RHS, while flowering or fruiting plants will benefit from a high-potassium feed.

Try introducing some perennial plants for pots, planting up a bulb lasagne for springtime color, or even creating a winter display. For the latter, 'attractive plants to use could include dwarf conifers, variegated ivies, cyclamen, and primulas,' says the Amateur Gardening experts. Stand the pots on pot feed and wrap them in fleece or move to the greenhouse if it gets very cold or stormy, they add.

4. Don't let the weeds take over

Whether you're growing your plants from pot-grown varieties from the garden center, plug plants, or seeds, you will want to keep an eye out for weeds. Not only do they often look unsightly, but these pesky interlopers can smother your plants and suck up all the nutrients from the soil.

Good preparation is half the battle, which means removing any weeds from the soil you're planning on planting into. If you're planting garden borders, covering the ground with a weed-control membrane is also a good idea, suggests the Amateur Gardening experts.

'Choose a heavy-duty one that is porous to water and remember to anchor it in place with pegs to prevent it from blowing away in fierce winter storms. Cut slits for planting, using a sharp gardening knife, and to give plants the best chance, add compost to the slits as you put them in the ground,' they add. You can then cover this in bark chippings for an attractive finish.

But don't despair if you do spot some intruders during your growing escapades – there are lots of ways to get rid of weeds easily if you act sooner rather than later.

5. Protect plants from pests

It's not just weeds you'll need to keep an eye out for. Pests can also be a bit of a pain – in terms of gardening for beginners and experts alike. Hungry birds, slugs, and other pests can nibble on your plants and quickly cause them to deteriorate if you're not careful. But, all can be deterred if they get too problematic – often by natural means.

Aphids are a common one that can invade all sorts, but getting rid of them isn't too troublesome. Tackle them by either squishing small colonies between your fingers 
or using a systemic insecticide such as 
BugClear Ultra (available on Amazon), suggests John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening.

'Aphids have many natural predators such as ladybirds, lacewings, and hoverflies,' he adds, 'so encourage them in with attractive plants such as marigolds and other pollen-rich varieties.'

6. Consider a lawn carefully

If you're thinking about installing a lawn, or you've recently moved into a new property and are wondering about keeping an existing one, bear in mind that lawn care requires quite a lot of work and time.

'Grass is also not the most environmentally-friendly option nor is it cost-effective as it requires a ton of water to stay lush and green,' says The Greenhouse People.

'Consider planting loads of wildflowers and keep just a small portion of grass,' they suggest. 'Letting your lawn grow longer too is really great for your garden’s biodiversity since it creates an environment where wildflowers and insects can thrive.' Plus – it's easier to maintain.

'Or, if you’d like to do away with grass completely, consider replacing it with clover. Clover is a great low-maintenance option as it doesn’t require mowing or watering and will attract pollinators,' they add. Of course, there are other alternatives to grass that are stylish and low-maintenance, and won't require you to invest in one of the best lawn mowers.

7. Create an outdoor living space to sit and enjoy your growing efforts

Gardening for beginners isn't just about the growing – to really get the most out of your plot, you'll want to create a space where you can sit, relax, and entertain from.

There are all kinds of DIY landscaping ideas you can try to give your space a boost, from installing gravel pathways to upcycling old pallets. Exterior paint is also an easy way to upgrade a wall, fence, or even the floor.

'Giving your garden fence a lick of paint is a simple way to freshen up its appearance and the look of your home altogether,' says the DIY and power tool experts at Gtech. 'This is also a good way to incorporate some of this season’s trending colors – earth-toned neutrals – into your exterior. Why not choose two or three shades you like, that complement each other, and paint your panels alternating colors?'

8. Enjoy the process

With gardening, the learning never really stops – that's one of the things that makes it so enjoyable. Don't be afraid to experiment and certainly don't despair if something doesn't work out the way you wanted it to. 

There is tons of useful information online – from what to plant when to tips on growing flowers from seeds – but don't try to master everything at once. Instead, embrace picking up new skills as you go along.

Keeping a gardening journal can be useful, so you can track what worked and what could be improved next time. And most importantly, have fun! Gardening can be a wonderfully relaxing pastime for all ages and once you start, you might decide you've found a new hobby for life.

Are you trying to build borders and flower beds on clay soil? This heavy type of earth can be prone to waterlogging and compaction, which can make your growing endeavors difficult. Digging can be a real labor of love, especially in winter wet. And come summer, it can bake into a solid, dry mass that's prone to cracking.

There are, however, a few nifty tricks that will make your life easier when gardening on this type of soil. And once you've made the texture more suitable for planting, you'll be sure to reap the rewards. After all, clay is rich in nutrients and, according to the RHS, can accommodate a range of trees, shrubs, and perennials.

What is clay soil?

As mentioned above, clay soil can be hot and dry in summer, and excessively wet in winter, which makes garden drainage tricky. And it becomes particularly compacted and muddy if walked on when wet, which can be problematic for lawns. 

Another characteristic of clay soil is that it stays colder for longer – when compared to others – after the cooler months. This means new plant growth can be delayed.

Not sure if you've got this type of soil in your garden? Try picking up a small section in your hands. When moist, clay feels sticky and dense, and can be rolled into a smooth ball or sausage shape without cracking, explains the RHS.

How to make clay soil easier to work with in the garden

The best way to make gardening on clay soil easier is to work in liberal amounts of well-rotted garden compost or manure, advises John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 'Do this annually,' he adds. The worms will take this down into the soil, helping to reduce compaction. Mulching can also be beneficial, but leave a gap around the stems of your plants to prevent it from rotting them.

'Additionally, add fine-grade pea shingle to open it up and warm it,' he says. You can also use course grit – two buckets per square meter. 

You can also buy soil conditioners specifically for clay in garden centers. Some gardeners use garden lime to make clay more workable, but 'do so only if soil tests reveal it is very acid 
and you are not growing heathers, rhododendrons or any other ericaceous (acid-loving) plants,' John continues. 'It is best to apply in autumn as it will then help break down the clay over winter, making it easier to plant or sow 
in spring.'

Another top tip: if you're working on dug-over clay ground in wet conditions, lay down planks to walk on to help prevent damage to the soil structure. 

Of course, if you don't fancy taking the steps to improve your clay soil, you can make life easy by installing some raised garden beds, which you can fill with garden compost and a lighter, more workable soil. Likewise, you could switch to container gardening, instead.

What plants are best for clay soil?

Picking plants for clay soil is easier than you might think, as once the texture is improved, many will flourish. Just be sure to plant them when the soil is dry and warmed.

Try growing roses for their beauty and scent, which will suit the soil conditions. Other shrubs that tend to do well include hydrangeas and fuchsias. Spring bulbs will also thrive, as will many trees – the RHS suggests Japanese maples and birches.

You can also look for those described as liking moist, fertile conditions. Iris pseudocorus or yellow flag iris is a good pick, while arum lilies are happy in boggy soils. Dogwoods are perfect for heavy clay, and other top choices include astilbe, aster (including symphyotrichum), clematis, hosta, mahonia, peony, persicaria, rudbeckia, and viburnum.

The RHS notes that annuals and bedding plants are less easy to grow on clay, due to the frequent sowing, planting, and dividing that they need.

How can you get more worms in your clay soil?

'Worms will multiply in your clay soil if you top it with organic matter – well-rotted garden compost or old manure or a proprietary soil conditioner,' says John Negus.

'This will also improve the texture of your clay and make it easier to cultivate.'

Is your garden based on chalky soil? It isn't the easiest to work with, but there are some tips and tricks you can do to make life easier and improve your growing success.

This common type of soil is high in alkalinity (having a pH of 7.1 or above), and often lumpy with stones or gravel. It can also be low in nutrients, which can be a challenge when trying to get plants to thrive. However, with the right planting picks, and the right approach, you can still grow a beautiful garden. We explain how.

What is chalky soil?

Chalky soil is derived from limestone or chalk and its structure can vary from heavy to light. This type of soil tends to warm up quickly in spring and is very dry in summer.

'The good thing about chalky soil is that it is free-draining and won't get waterlogged, so it is easier to work than clay soil,' explains John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening.

'The downside is that if it is very thin, it won't hold on to many nutrients, so some plants may struggle,' he adds.

A good way to tell if the soil in your flower beds and borders is chalky is to put some in a jar of vinegar. If it froths, then it contains chalk or limestone, says the RHS.

How to make chalky soil easier to work with in the garden

'The first thing to do is dig down to see how deep or thin the layer of topsoil is,' says John. 'In some cases, it may be thin, in others, it may go down quite a way. In either situation, there may not be enough goodness for plants to grow healthily, and their leaves may turn yellow and become chlorotic.'

The RHS says to break up the chalk to a depth of 30in (75cm) – this will encourage plants' root systems to spread out.

As well as this, enrich the soil with lots of organic matter – well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. 'This will add goodness and improve the soil's ability to hold on to water so it doesn't dry out as quickly,' says John.

The RHS adds that mulching – also with organic matter – can help conserve moisture. Watering plants should also be done vigilantly. Fertilizing plants can also help them to flourish in these conditions.

If your soil is very thin, you may find it easier to opt for raised garden beds or containers which you can fill with topsoil and more nutrient-rich compost.

What plants are best for chalky soil?

When it comes to planting on chalky soil, there are many varieties to choose from. Just bear in mind that they often take a good few seasons to establish – explains the RHS  – although smaller plants tend to be quicker at settling in than larger, more mature specimens.

'If you are looking for trees, fruiting varieties including apple, crab apple, and pear, as well as ornamental cherries, do well,' says John. 'Spindle, beech, and ash also grow well on chalk.'

Shrubs and climbing plants for chalky soils include berberis, lavender, passion flower, cistus, hebes, clematis, and anything that thrives in a more Mediterranean situation with poor dry soil, he adds.

'Most perennials and annuals will also grow well, and bulbs favor the soil as it doesn't sit wet, which can cause them to rot. So, with careful planning, you can have color and interest all year round.' Wildflower mixes are also a good option, and perfect for a wildlife garden, and drought-tolerant plants tend to do well, too.

Avoid plants that like clay soils, such as rhododendrons and azaleas. 'If you are determined to grow these, set them in containers of ericaceous compost,' says John.

Choosing the best vegetables to plant in September is all about recognizing the shifting of the seasons – and embracing the benefits of those changes. Yes, spring is great for potential, and summer is lovely for reaping the rewards in big volumes. But in the fall, you get a magical blend of possibilities: fast-growing crops that hit their stride in the cooler temperatures of the fall; miniature (or baby) crops of slow-growing roots; and overwintering staples that bulk up steadily during the next few months in readiness for the next gardening season. 

Around the autumn equinox, you lose a bit of light as well as warmth. But pick the right crops and you can turn this point in the vegetable planting calendar to your advantage. Sow savory greens, oriental leaves, spring cabbage and Japanese onions now, and they will flourish in the combination of cooler temperatures and relatively warm ground levels. Quick-maturing crops like radishes that might have taken four weeks from seed to harvest in summer might take a few weeks longer – but it’s worth it. And slow-developing brassicas like spring cabbage relish every week of growth now to bulk up to their full potential and flavor. 

With containers, cold frames and cloches at the ready, you can start off a stack of lip-smacking goodies now for healthy feasts far into the colder months. Whether you’re looking to bulk up on baby roots and hardy greens or try your hand at tasty oriental veg, we’ve got the essential growing list to give your kitchen garden a boost.

12 vegetables to plant in September for weeks of delicious crops 

The best vegetables to plant in September take advantage of cool-season temperatures and every last moment of daylight. Try fast-maturing leafy dynamos like arugula, mustard and pak choi, as well as baby crops of slower-maturing turnips and radishes. 

Some of the best veg to start now will also set you up for filling up your store cupboard and laying the groundwork for next year’s feasts, like Japanese onions and spring cabbage. Whether you’re sowing for quick nibbles or winter goodies, our top crops will keep your raised garden bed ideas and container planting schemes ticking over well into the fall. So go on, get growing!

1. Collard greens

Fall is fast becoming the favorite time for growing collard greens, making them some of the best vegetables to plant in September. Beloved of the ancient Greeks, these hale and hearty leafy beasts taste better after a bit of exposure to frosts on the plot, so they are ideal for autumnal planting. Verdant, robust and reminiscent of cabbage, collards (Brassica oleracea) are packed with vitamins K, A and C, calcium and B6, and they help to lower cholesterol. Start now and make successive sowings to maximize cropping potential into the depths of winter. 

These greens can be planted in the ground and in raised beds as well as containers, but bear in mind that cruciferous collards need a fair bit of room for bulking up. Plant in full sun or partial shade (USDA zones 6-11) in moist, rich, well-draining soil with a slightly acidic pH (6.5). Space 18-24in (45-60cm) apart, or thin accordingly. 

A 3in (8cm) mulch will keep the ground moist and prevent weeds. Cool-season collards make excellent companion plants for onions as well as mint, rosemary and sage. If you already grow potatoes and celery, it’s also worth planting some collards nearby.  

As long as these leafy greens receive a regular supply of moisture, they are ready for harvesting 65-75 days after sowing/planting. If they have been touched by frost, young leaves taste sweeter and work well steamed or braised. Try glossy ‘Green Glaze’, prolific ‘Flash’, heirloom ‘Ole Timey Blue’ and tender ‘Champion’.  

2. Japanese onions

If you haven’t grown Japanese onions before, you’re in for a treat. These hardy overwintering varieties, also known simply as autumn planting onions, can grow outside over the cooler months and deliver crunchy pungent goodness come spring. What makes them so perfect for September plantings is that they need less light than other onions, so the shorter days won’t faze them. 

They are also excellent options for starting in September thanks to their tolerance of the cooler climes. As Chris Bonnett of GardeningExpress.co.uk points out: ‘Onions are tough enough to withstand the cold weather throughout the winter. Just keep an eye on them, and if the conditions get too frosty, you can always cover them with a fleece to be on the safe side.’

If you’re stuck on what variety to choose, ‘Senshyu Yellow’ is a reliable, heavy yielding globe variety that can survive temperatures down to -18°C. ‘Toughball’ has good tolerance to botrytis and downy mildew, which you need for an overwintering type. Then there’s the shiny red-skinned ‘Electric’, which keeps for up to four weeks from harvest. Plus, there's ‘Troy’ and ‘Radar’, which have excellent bolt resistance.

3. Baby turnips

Turnips are one of the fastest-growing vegetables to plant in September. These crunchy wonders do best in cool, moist conditions. You’d be amazed how quickly you can harvest golf-ball sized baby veg. ‘If planted now, they take around six weeks until they’re ready to harvest. Perfect – and just in time for winter,’ says Chris Bonnett.

Sow seeds thinly in shallow drills, ½in (1cm) deep, with rows 12in (30cm) apart. Thin out seedlings until 8in (20cm) apart for baby roots. Water regularly, or roots won’t taste as nice or grow sufficiently. Dry conditions can cause plants to bolt, which stops roots growing. Then just make sure you follow our tips on how to get rid of weeds to ensure they don't appear and encroach on your growing turnips. 

Flea beetles and other small insects may make small holes in young turnip greens. You can get rid of flea beetles by growing the crops under insect-proof mesh or horticultural fleece. Don’t worry, though – turnip plants are so quick-growing, they soon outpace any damage. 

Just keep the soil lightly moist, and your baby roots will be healthy and yummy. Try 'Tokyo Cross', 'White Lady', 'Purple Top Milan' and 'Hakurei'. 

4. Arugula (rocket)

Arugula (or rocket) is highly adaptable to a cool season of cultivation. Easily sown from seed, this lobed leafy annual cranks up the heat with tasty crops that can be harvested four weeks after sowing. Its fast maturity makes it amongst the best veggies for September planting – and successive sowing ensures feisty flavors far into winter. 

As Amateur Gardening’s veg expert Lucy Chamberlain explains, the still-warm days of autumn are perfect for rapid germination. 'Just sow straight into the greenhouse border, or into modules in a propagator to transplant to the border, trays or growing bags in October,' says Lucy.

It prefers full sun or partial shade with well-drained soil (pH 6-7). Once you have thinned seedlings to 4-6in (10-15cm) apart, these plants just need regular watering due to their shallow root systems. They are ideal for companion planting with slower-maturing veggies like French beans, carrots and beetroots. Arugula will also make great companion plants for potatoes and aromatic herbs like chives and dill. Hardiness zones 3-11 get the best results for outdoor growing, but these spicy staples thrive wherever warm germination conditions are followed by exposure to the cold, moisture and six hours of light per day.    

Depending on the varieties, you can harvest as quickly as 40 days after sowing (four-seven weeks): young, tender leaves are best. Just leave two thirds of each plant intact for multiple harvests. Lovely breeds include red-veined ‘Red Dragon’, heirloom ‘Slow Bolt’ and frilly ‘Garden Tangy’. 

5. Wok broc

Although it sounds a little bit like a vegetarian metal band, wok broc (aka Chinese broccoli) is a great vegetable to plant in September. This exotic-sounding crop, also known as kai lan, is a bit like conventional sprouting broccoli. It’s fast-growing, hard-working and packed with antioxidants and vitamin C. Anyone who has tried to grow winter brassicas or superfoods such as kale will love this unusual crop.

Sow directly into moist, weed-free soil in an open, sunny site. Drop the seeds into a 1in (2.5cm) deep trench, or scatter across the surface of large pots. Thin to 12in (30cm) apart when seedlings are large enough to handle. Water well and make sure the growing area remains weed-free. Because this crop is fast-growing, you can harvest stems and leaves six-eight weeks after sowing. Remove a few centimeters of the stems when the flowers appear. We recommend you leave a few flowers on the plant, though – they are great for pollinators. 

6. Mustard leaves

Leafy Asian vegetables create a diverse array of crops for fall plantings. Along with those that add pep to salads and sandwiches, Lucy advises filling bare gaps with some fast-growing hardy breeds for stir-fries and sautées. Mustard leaves are some of the most impactful vegetables to plant in September as they bulk up quickly from seed, make the most of small spaces (ideally in zones 2-11) and thrive in damp conditions. They are some of the easiest vegetables to grow from seed. And if you sow every three weeks, they will supply you with tender pickings all winter.

‘Simply sow directly into moist soil (pH 6-7). As temperatures fall, cover with a cloche, which prevents foliage turning leathery in colder weather,’ says Lucy. Alternatively, grow in large shallow containers. As seedlings develop, thin to 3in (8cm) apart, and water well. As long as you plant in a nutrient-rich soil, you shouldn’t need to add any liquid feed. Just keep an eye on weeds and maintain cool temperatures; exposure to a little frost is tolerated and can soften and sweeten flavors. These spicy croppers make great companion plants for garlic and celery, and if you like to grow sweetcorn they are also effective for interplanting. Herb lovers who grow thyme and dill will also find mustard leaves work well nearby.  

Harvest mustard (Brassica juncea) 45-55 days after sowing. Either cut whole or pick outer leaves as baby greens to encourage further growth in a cut-and-come-again style. Mustard plants can also be grown for their peppery seeds if you leave one to flower. Distinctive breeds include frilly ‘Southern Giant Curled’, crinkly ‘Red Giant’ and pretty ‘Osaka Purple’. 

7.  Spinach

Spinach should definitely be on your to-do list for essential vegetables to plant in the fall. If you want to learn how to grow spinach at this time of year, choose a hardy cultivar and select a sunny spot, and you can reap the rewards well into winter. As Chris Bonnett points out, ‘If you harvest regularly, it may even last until early spring.’

Direct-sow in a drill 1in (2.5cm) deep, water and cover lightly with soil. Thin to 4-6in (10-15cm) apart, then just keep well watered. You can also sow in large containers. In hot spells, make sure plants benefit from some shade. Six to ten weeks later, harvest every alternate plant. Cut back to just above the base to encourage more leaves. Winter cultivars may need protection from October; cover with cloches and cold frames and protect with straw. Prevent spinach downy mildew with good spacing.

Grow autumn-sown varieties which have thicker leaves and are less inclined to bolt. Our favorite is ‘Mikado’, an F1 spinach. It produces excellent yields from multiple side-shoots. ‘Violin’ and ‘Amazon’ have strong resistance to bolting, while ‘Apollo’ and ‘Palco’ are resistant to downy mildew. Not forgetting gorgeous ‘Red Veined’ for dramatic color.  

8. Cilantro (coriander)

Cilantro's fresh piquancy and healing properties make it an obvious entry in our list for September growing. It's easy to learn grow cilantro (also known as coriander) and it can be started from seeds in pots. Alternatively, sow direct and protect seedlings under cloches in well-drained soil.  

Sow thinly in the ground or multi-celled trays or pots and cover lightly. Germination takes 7-20 days. Keep sowing every two weeks for a constant supply. Make direct sowings 1cm deep in rows 12in (30cm) apart. Keep moist, but don’t overwater and weed regularly. Cilantro can be harvested at 4-6in (10-15cm) tall and used on a cut-and-come-again basis. If you want to grow free seeds, leave a few plants to flower. Pick when ripe, before they fall to the ground. Place seed heads in a bag and hang upside down to dry, shake loose and store in an airtight container.

For an easygoing, fast-growing cilantro, try British-bred ‘Calypso’, finely cut ‘Confetti’ or vigorous ‘Leafy Leisure’. Or opt for a bolt-resistant variety such as ‘Santos’, ‘Slowbolt’ or ‘Indian Summer’.

9. Pak choi

Plump, nutritious and fast-growing, pak choi is one of the essential vegetables to plant in September. It is well suited to shorter autumn days and its fat leaves make the most of what natural light is available. ‘You may not get massive rosettes, but a short, 3ft row will provide ample yield,' says Lucy. ‘Sow directly outside into moist soil. As temperatures fade later in the month, cover the rows with a cloche, which will also prevent the foliage turning leathery,’ she adds.

The trick when you grow pak choi is to avoid root disturbance and sow in situ. Plant four seeds at 12in (30cm) spacing, then thin to the strongest seedling. Keep well watered to avoid bolting. Watch out for holes in leaves, which could be a sign of flea beetles. Avoid this by growing plants under a fleece. Powdery mildew is another risk, but can be avoided by growing in cool locations. Harvest in as little as 30 days. 

Great varieties include glossy 'Tatsoi Supi', crisp 'Joy Choi' and pretty 'Pak Choi Red'.

10. Pea shoots

Delicate and tender yet bursting with flavor and nutrients, pea shoots are a top crop to start now and shoots are ready in weeks. Content in a cold frame or greenhouse, they are quick to grow and are some of the best vegetables to grow in raised beds as more space becomes available.

Grow outdoors in fertile, well-drained soil, sowing seeds an inch (2-3cm) apart. It’s also possible to cultivate pea shoots in containers in a greenhouse or tunnel. Make sowings 1in (2-3cm) deep. If you use containers, make them big; grow bags and larger trays are ideal. Place in a well-lit spot but avoid direct sunlight, and keep moist. Harvest with scissors an inch above compost level when plants are 6in (15cm) tall. Cut in clumps, allowing a reasonable amount of the plant to regrow. 

Top varieties include compact ‘Meteor’ and prolific ‘Feltham First’. We also recommend ‘Twinkle’ for downy mildew tolerance. And for a crunchy nutrient boost, ‘Anubis’ produces shoots in three weeks, and you can enjoy a second picking a few weeks later. Perfect for that tasty vitamin boost!

11. Radishes

September is your last chance this year for growing radishes, so take advantage of this final push for crunchy croppers through autumn. Direct-sow in the ground or sow in containers. If sowing in the ground, make short drills 6in (15cm) apart and sow half an inch (1cm) deep. Sow summer radish seeds 1in (2.5cm) apart, and winter varieties 6in (15cm) apart. And keep the soil moist. As radishes are fast growers, try interplanting some between slower-growing veg like potatoes. You can harvest four weeks from sowing: these veggies are best eaten young. 

Great varieties to try include sweet ‘Watermelon’ with its bright magenta flesh and peppery ‘China Rose’, which is cold-tolerant and can be left in the ground over winter. Not forgetting bold purple ‘Felicia’ with its slender roots, and ‘Rainbow Mix’, a colorful crunchy blend (both from Suttons).  

12. Spring cabbage

Tasty, tender, nourishing and bulging with goodies like vitamin C, spring cabbage is a reliable staple for the kitchen garden – and September is the key time to start off crops for next year. Time to overwinter is crucial in order to produce those bulky heads. These magnificent croppers need to fill out a lot, and they take their sweet time doing it, although they do pick up the pace as the weather warms in spring. 

Pick an open, sunny or semi-shaded spot with alkaline soil. Start some off both in modular trays and direct in the ground using a seed bed, to hedge your bets. Once planted out, give plants a soak every 8-10 days. As you see heads expand, water generously to improve bulk. You can pull up some crops as greens when the leaves are tender. Four to six months later, the main heads should be ready to harvest. Cut through the stem with a sharp knife just above ground level. For a bonus crop, cut a cross in the stump. You’ll get several small cabbages a few weeks later.

Great varieties include tender sweetheart ‘Wheelers Imperial’. Then there’s ‘Duncan’, with its dark upright leaves. ‘April’ is an early spring variety with compact heads. Last but not least, AGM winner ‘Pixie’ has a hard head, which allows for close plantings. 

What else can I do for veg in September?

1. With luck, you can harvest winter squash and pumpkins in October – so September is key for encouraging growth. To help skins set, cut off any leaves shading the fruits. Continual growth is key, so reduce the effect of cold nights by covering fruits with a thick blanket, says Lucy. Sustained watering is also crucial; little and often will keep growth consistent. Adding a high potash liquid feed to water will boost growth. 
2. If you have tried to grow carrots this year, September is a key time to thin them out. If you don’t, it might lead to congestion and erratic root size. Thin out the row to one healthy carrot every 0.7in (2cm). Reattach any insect-proof mesh as female root fly adults will be attracted by the smell. 
3. Tender tubers (yacon, oca, sweet potato and ulluco) need a long, hot spell to grow readily – many don’t start producing until late summer, says Lucy. The key is to keep the soil warm so the young tubers can bulk up to give a worthwhile yield. Good mulching materials include straw, scrunched-up newspaper and dried leaves. Lay around the roots of your crop, and cover over the plants with a cloche. 
4. If you're learning how to grow courgettes then September is the time to keep an eye out for powdery mildew. This is also a critical time to monitor cucumbers, which are a magnet for red spider mite. If you think you need to cut your losses, the best way to dispose of them is either on the bonfire or in the green waste. 

Fruit jobs for September

• September is a good time to order new fruit bushes for planting in November-March. Organic expert Bob Flowerdew recommends buying a blackcurrant bush. To boost your returns, take a few cuttings from the main bush and root them in situ. Other options include red/white currants and gooseberries. Blackcurrants are also a good choice if you're interested in growing fruit in pots and containers.
• Owners of trained plums, cherries, gages, peaches, nectarines and apricots – take note, says Lucy. You must prune them by mid-September, or wait until next summer. Stone fruits must meet with secateurs while it is warm and dry. If pruned in winter, these trees become vulnerable to silver leaf fungus and bacterial canker infections. 
• Didn't learn how to grow strawberries this year but want to give it a go next year? You still have time to plant up strawberry beds for next year. ‘Autumn plantings give bigger yields than spring equivalents,' says Lucy. ‘The plants make strong root growth and will be far more drought-tolerant if planted now than if you wait until March.’ 

Deciding what to plant in September is an absolute joy because the soil should be perfect for receiving new plants.

Still warm from the summer, yet dampened by seasonal rain, it provides the perfect conditions for new roots to get established before plants go dormant in the winter. It’s also a good month for grabbing some bargains, as many garden centers and online retailers will be selling off old summer stock.

Top of your ‘what to plant in September’ list should be spring bulbs, as they start being available this month and it’s good to buy them early before the best ones sell out. They are an easy and versatile way of adding color to the garden, and happy to grow in borders, rock gardens, containers, and even in your lawn. If you buy a mix of varieties you can expect color and interest from the earliest days of spring right through into the summer. What’s not to like?

But it's not all about bulbs – there are lots of other lovely options for planting this month, too. The round-up below has plenty of tips on what to plant when, so you can prepare a bloom-filled garden for next year.

What to plant in September: 14 picks to fill your garden with now 

Whether you want instant impact with pretty bedding plants or want to sow seeds or plant bulbs ready for early spring displays, our suggestions for what to plant in September will ensure there is plenty to admire in your plot during the cooler weather ahead. 

Whatever flowers you plant this month, don’t forget about watering the plants while they get established, especially as September can often give us a warm, dry Indian summer.

Soil may also need enriching after a summer of growing, so dig in lots of well-rotted compost or manure, which will feed your new plants and also help the ground hold on to moisture.

1. Nectaroscordum

One of my favorite alliums for garden borders is Nectaroscordum siculum or Sicilian honey garlic.

Unlike most members of the onion family that produce circular heads of purple or white flowers, this allium opens up into umbrellas of pale cream blooms that are flushed with pink and have green tips.

Growing to almost 4ft (1.2m) in ideal situations, they continue to delight when flowers fade, producing arrow-head seed pods that grow upright from the tall, straight stem.

Plant the bulbs in free-draining soil in a sunny spot that has been enriched with well-rotted compost or farmyard manure. Set them at 2-3 times their own depth and a bulb’s width apart, ideally in clusters of odd numbers because even numbers of plants can look too regimented.

Firm the soil down gently over the top of the bulbs and water well and they should flower next spring.

Top tip: Nectaroscordum siculum can also be grown from seed but they will take around six years to flower.

2. Red hot pokers

For a bit of late summer heat, add some red hot pokers to your borders.

Also called kniphofias, these drought-tolerant plants have strap-like leaves and tall spires of glowing red florets, though they are also widely available in yellow and cream.

Though traditionally tall, dwarf varieties look lovely planted towards the front of your beds.

To plant, dig a hole that’s as deep as, but slightly wider than the plant’s root ball and fork in some well-rotted organic matter.

Stand the plant in water for around 30 minutes to saturate the root ball, then gently slide it from the pot and use your thumbs to loosen any roots that are constricted or circling the pot.

Then, set the red hot poker in the hole, and infill around the roots with soil and compost, firming it down as you go to knock out air pockets. Water well and mulch the root area with compost or manure to retain moisture.

Top tip: If you are planting in clay soil, fork up the sides of the planting hole to improve drainage so the roots don’t drown in an impermeable ‘bucket’ of water.

3. Sedum

Sedum, or stonecrop, are the perfect flower for autumn color and also provide essential late nectar for foraging bees and butterflies.

Also known as ice plants, they have fleshy leaves in shades of green and purple and spreading, flat clumps of flowers in various shades of pink.

Perfect plants for a low-maintenance garden border, they like a sunny spot and are one of the best drought-resistant plants, though young plants do need protection from slugs and snails. I find that a ring of wool deterrent pellets such as Slug Gone (available from Amazon) around plants keeps the pests at bay and also works as a mulch, keeping moisture in the soil.

Plant stonecrop at the front of a border or in containers of multipurpose compost with added grit to improve drainage.

Top tip: The Chelsea chop, when you remove one stem in three, will keep sedum plants neat and long-flowering through summer, and their faded flowerheads are attractive enough to leave attached in the fall.

4. Iris reticulata 

Iris reticulata are early-blooming spring flowers, grown from bulbs in a sunny spot with rich, free-draining soil.

A dwarf variety, their flowers are traditionally violet with yellow markings. However, newer varieties such as ‘George’ have striking pinky-purple petals while ‘Natascha’ has blue petals that are so pale they almost look white.

Iris reticulata, or reticulate irises, originally came from dry areas of Europe and work well at the front of borders as well as in pots. They are also worth considering as plants for rockeries.

Top tip: Plant the bulbs in autumn for spring flowers or if you can’t wait, buy ready-to-flower plants in late winter for an instant hit of color.

5. Verbascum

If you’re looking to add height to a border, look no further than verbascum varieties, stately perennial or biennial plants with spires of clustered flowers in all shades from deep purple to creamy yellow.

They like neutral to alkaline soil that drains well and look wonderful as part of cottage garden planting schemes, but will also fit in well with more contemporary border planning ideas. Try them with ornamental grasses and bright hardy annuals such as poppies and cornflowers.

Verbascums, also known as mulleins, enjoy sun but will also thrive in partial shade and are perfect additions if you are creating a wildlife patch as they attract lots of beneficial pollinators.

However, they are susceptible to attacks by mullein moth caterpillars – yellow, black, and white-striped grubs that can do serious damage to your plants. The best defence is to pick them off and add them to the bird table.

Top tip: Verbascum flower early in the summer. If you cut back their flowered stems you should be rewarded with a second flush of blooms later in the summer.

6. Chrysanthemums

Chrysanthemums, also known as ‘chrysanths’ and ‘mums’ were all the rage for a while, then fell out of favor and gained a reputation for being a bit boring and fuddy-duddy. 

Now they are back in vogue and a top garden trend, so more people are enjoying the benefits of learning how to grow chrysanthemums. It's easy to see why too. Easy-going and with a wide range of colors, flower sizes, and heights, they are the slightly less flashy cousin of the dahlia and just as beautiful.

Although most chrysanthemums are bought as rooted cuttings and small plants in spring, garden centers and online suppliers will have lots of fantastic, bright bedding varieties in stock now, making them an easy addition to your list of what to plant in September. 

These are usually dwarf plants that form clumps of gem-shade flowers in pinks, reds, russets, and oranges. They will flower long into the winter and again next spring. 

Top tip: Deadheading flowers regularly will keep the blooms coming and the plants in a neat shape.

7. Biennial seedlings

If you sowed a selection of biennials in spring and summer, the seedlings should be ready to move to their final growing place.

Biennials are plants that are sowed year and flower the next, and they include foxgloves, sweet rocket, wallflowers, and honesty. 

Many of these plants will happily self-seed around the parent plant so if you are already growing them you may find seedlings springing up in unexpected (and unwanted) spots in your garden.

Carefully dig them up, keeping soil around the roots, and plant them where you wish, at the same depth as they were growing before. Keep them well-watered.

Alternatively, pot them up in peat-free compost and overwinter them in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse. Next spring, when the soil warms up, you can plant them out where you want.

Top tip: If pink and white honesty has self-seeded, either leave it where it is or add it to the compost heap if you don't want it. These plants have long, thick tap roots and don’t transplant well.

8. Cyclamen

With their jewel-colored flowers and interestingly patterned leaves, jaunty little cyclamen are an excellent choice for what to plant in September.

As great shade-loving plants, they seem to glow out of the gloom, and their corms will multiply over the years. They also boost their numbers by self-seeding.

The best outdoor varieties are Cyclamen coum, which have green leaves with white streaks and pretty little flowers in shades of pink, red, and white, and Cyclamen hederifolium, with their pink and white flowers and leaves patterned like ivy.

Both varieties thrive in humus-rich soil and are lovely under trees and shrubs.

Top tip: After flowering, cyclamen seedpods are held on curled stems that slowly unwind as they ripen, lowering the precious seeds down to the soil.

9. Ornamental brassicas

There's no need to laugh at this suggestion for what to plant in September! Ornamental brassicas are a far cry from soggy over-boiled cabbage and the smell of old washing.

Many of them produce brightly-colored leaves in varying shades of greens with mauve, purple, and steely tints to provide a cool foil to the burnished and bright colors of spring and autumn bedding, their color often deepening as the temperature falls.

Best of all, you plant them at a time when cabbage white butterflies are no longer on the wing, so there's no need to be on caterpillar watch for weeks on end.

Ornamental cabbages do well in borders and also look eye-catching in smaller planting schemes contained in pots, baskets, and rockeries.

Top tip: These pretty plants are edible when they are young, though their taste is stronger than the brassicas we grow for cooking, and not as palatable. 

If you'd prefer to learn how to grow winter brassicas to eat rather than purely for ornamental purposes, our guide has tips on growing everything from cabbage and cauliflower to kale and sprouts.

10. Dierama

If you have the patience, this month is a good time to sow the seeds of Dierama pulcherrimum, or angel's fishing rods.

You need to be patient because the plants can take up to five years to reach flowering maturity, but the end result is delicate and beautiful plants with thin, strap-like leaves and gracefully drooping skeins of bells – hence their name – in shades of deep pinks and mauves.

If you are already growing the plant, collect the seeds as soon as they are ripe (our guide on collecting seeds from flowers explains how to do this). When you sow, scatter seeds thinly on the surface of a tray of seed compost and don't cover with more compost or vermiculite as light is needed for germination.

Prick out the seedlings when large enough and grow on until they reach a size that will cope with being planted out somewhere sunny with free-draining soil. 

Although dierama look wonderful growing among ornamental grasses close to water, the corms that develop from their seeds as they mature are prone to rotting and need a dry site.

Top tip: Dierama will grow in containers, but are much happier in the soil. In winter, mulch corms with well-rotted compost or manure if very cold weather is forecast.

11. Violas

Violas are a spring bedding stalwart. Smaller than pansies, they are less likely to have their petals damaged by winter weather and will happily hunker down and sit out the worst of the weather before springing back to life when conditions improve.

There are many varieties to choose from if you're thinking about what to sow in September, from the purple and yellow old-fashioned favorite ‘Johnny Jump Up’ to the multi-colored ‘Chicky Chicks’ and ‘Pink Halo', which have pink-mauve petals with darker inky rings and yellow centers that look like slightly squashed-up faces.

Sow the seeds in a tray of dampened seed compost, cover with a little more compost and germinate on a warm, light windowsill. Prick out seedlings when they are large enough to handle and pot them on in peat-free compost. There are tips on how to transplant seedlings in our guide. 

Harden off plants in spring and plant them out when the weather warms.

Top tip: Violas and pansies are prone to a fungal disease called leaf spot, which causes oily dark patches to appear on the leaves, and weakens the plants. Avoid it by planting homegrown plants in areas of the garden where violas and pansies have not grown before.

12. Poached egg plants

Easy to grow and with sunny faces, poached egg plants (Limnanthes douglasii) are the cheeky, cheerful chappies of the spring and summer garden.

Low-growing, with vibrant green leaves and white flowers with yellow centers, they self-seed with ease and are ideal for the front of borders, as ground cover, and as path edging plants.

They like full sun and are hardy, so sow them now in soil that has been cleared of weeds and stones, raked until it is fine and crumbly, and watered.

Scatter the seeds thinly, cover them with a little more soil and label the site so you don’t accidentally disturb them. It’s also worth sprinkling some pepper dust over the top to keep off cats and pests.

The seeds will spend winter in the soil and start to germinate when the weather warms up next spring, and will flower all summer and into the fall.

Top tips: Poached egg plants are popular with pollinators as well as insects that prey on garden pests such as aphids, so use them as a companion planting aid and sow a few seeds around your fruit and veg patch.

13. California poppies

California poppies, also known as Eschscholzia californica, are cheery annuals that spread pops of color wherever they are sown.

Hailing from – you guessed it – California, where they are the State Flower, their orange variant is the most commonly seen, though they also come in shades of brilliant red, yellow and cool cream.

Glossy flowers ride high above soft ferny leaves, and their furled petals open as the sun passes over, following it on its daily course.

Sow now in well-prepared soil and look forward to long-lasting color well into the fall. The great thing about these flowers is they don’t mind poor soil, as long as they get lots of sun, so they are perfect for dry areas of the garden.

Top tip: Orange is the dominant color form and self-seeded offspring of differently colored California poppies will probably come up orange the following year.

14. Malope Trifida 'Vulcan'

If you are looking for a floral show-stopper that is one of the best low-maintenance plants, you won't go far wrong with Malope trifida ‘Vulcan’.

A hardy annual despite its exotic appearance, this variety of stately mallow produces a profusion of glossy pink-purple flowers with lime-green centers, making it an interesting one to add to your list of what to plant in September.

Growing to 3ft (1m), it likes a sunny, well-drained spot and although it can also be sown in spring, seeds started now will have a head start on later sowings and will flower sooner.

As an added bonus, if you sow two or three batches over six weeks, you will get a prolonged flowering season.

Sow them undercover in trays of sieved and dampened seed compost.

Tamp the compost flat so it provides a secure surface for germination and add a lid to the seed tray. Set it somewhere light, such as a greenhouse or cold frame, and the hardy annual seeds will germinate in a few weeks.

They can be pricked out and potted on into peat-free compost and overwintered in the greenhouse.

Top tip: ‘Vulcan’ blooms are lovely as a cutting garden flower for indoor arrangements, but don't start cutting them as soon as they start to appear on the plant as you’ll remove lots of buds as well. Wait a couple of weeks until the plant has really got established and is throwing out lots of blooms, and then start harvesting.

It's worth getting to grips with the common apple tree diseases, whether you're growing a few dwarf varieties in patio pots or larger specimens in an orchard. 

Knowing what to look out for, and how to treat problems should you spot them, gives your trees a better chance at staying in tip-top health. And that way, you can enjoy a bountiful harvest of delicious fruits come autumn – no matter the size of your kitchen garden.

5 apple tree diseases to look out for

With help from the experts, we've rounded up plenty of useful advice on apple tree diseases.

1. Brown rot disease

Dark blemishes and rotting apples can indicate brown rot disease. '
All you can do is remove and bin or bury deeply affected fruits,' advises John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening magazine. 'Please do not compost them as spores may be released that will affect future fruits.

'I would also urge you to thin crowded branches to improve airflow,' he continues. 'Also, if the tree is young, feed it with 1oz (28g) 
per square meter of sulfate of potash, which improves resistance to this particular problem.'

Sprinkle it on monthly, from mid-spring to early fall, over the feeding root area, which aligns with the main branch tips. Then, water it in.

2. Canker

Canker is a fungal disease that causes areas of bark to crumble and die back. If it spreads, it can cause entire branches to die.

There are things you can do to try to reduce this. 'If only one branch is affected, prune it out at a point beneath the affected area,' says the Amateur Gardening experts. 

'However, if the tree is showing symptoms on more than one branch this treatment could be too drastic. Instead, carefully pare away all the infected and damaged bark and wood, cutting back to completely healthy tissue. Disinfect the knife as you are doing this. Burn or bin the parings and sterilize all the tools used.

'Once the area is cleaned up, paint over the wound with a wound paint,' the team continues. Canker is said to be more serious on wet, heavy and/or acid soil types, they add, so check the soil drainage and think about raising the soil pH by liming if appropriate.

3. Powdery mildew

Are the leaves on your apple tree turning silvery-white and beginning to fall off the tree? Powdery mildew could be to blame – a fungal disease that affects lots of different plants.

If your tree is in a confined spot where air circulates poorly, disease spores are more likely to fall on leaves and shoots. Start by spraying with Vitax Pest and Disease Control, and in fall, thin crowded shoots to boost airflow, suggests John.

'Also, feed with sulfate of potash,' he adds. Sprinkle it over the root area monthly from mid-spring until summer, and water it in. 'This will help to strengthen the tree against adverse conditions and also 
help improve the flavor of the fruit.'

If you're growing your fruit trees in pots, on a patio, for instance, it may also be wise to move them to allow more airflow around them.

4. Apple tree fireblight

Fireblight, caused by bacteria, will kill the shoots of your apple tree making it look like they have been burnt by a fire. It can also cause blossoms to wilt and die, and brown staining to appear on the wood beneath the bark.

There are no chemical controls, says the RHS. However, they suggest pruning out and burning infected areas as soon as you spot the problem. Peel back the bark as you go so you can see where the staining ends and where healthy wood begins. 

In smaller branches, cut back 1ft (30cm) to healthy wood, they advise. In larger branches, cut back 2ft (60cm). Be sure to clean your pruning shears before you begin, as well as in between cuts, to avoid spreading the disease.

5. Scab disease

Scab disease is another fungal problem that can cover your apples in a scale-like coating. Severe attacks result in deep fissures in the skin and blemished leaves. It can also affect pear trees.

Thin crowded branches and feed your tree with sulfate of potash, says John. Sprinkle it over the root area, monthly, from mid-spring to early fall, and repeat annually. 'It toughens tissues and improves the fruits' resistance to 
adverse conditions.'

The RHS also suggests opting for apple varieties that are resistant to the disease, listing 'Discovery', 'Melba', and 'Topaz', to name a few.

Why is my apple tree covered in a white, waxy, fluffy material?

Woolly aphids are a relatively common pest that cover apple trees in a cotton-wool-like material. They feed on the sap of the tree, causing shoots to distort and develop knobbles. 

Many gardeners need to know how to get rid of aphids from their plants at some point – and the good news is, there are ways to tackle the woolly apple tree variety, too. 

Treat the problem by spraying a pesticide that's suitable for use on edible plants. In winter, you can also use Vitax Winter Tree Wash, available on Amazon, suggests John Negus, which will kill overwintering eggs.

'If stems are badly affected, cut them back to healthy tissue in late autumn to encourage robust regrowth,' he adds.

What can cause an apple tree's bark to split?

If the bark on the trunk of your apple tree has developed large splits, it could be due to canker. However, there are other, more innocuous causes, such as irregular uptake of moisture.

'If the splits appear to be "wholesome", with no browning or rotting, then the tree is relatively healthy and can be saved,' says John Negus. 'All you do is smear petroleum jelly over the gaps and use longish broad-headed tacks to pin the bark 
in place.'

If you’re new to growing your own crops, then our guide on vegetable gardening for beginners is a good place to start. 

We’d say that cultivating, picking, and then eating homegrown veggies is one of life’s simplest yet greatest pleasures. And with the right approach, a kitchen garden is totally attainable, no matter the size of your outdoor space. Even if you’re a total novice, it’s easy to grow a few salad varieties in pots, a tomato plant or two in a mini greenhouse, or a glut (as if often the way) of courgettes in a raised bed.

The best part is, starting a vegetable garden can easily be done on a budget – and of course, will supply you with lots of fresh produce without needing to go to the store. Your home-cooked meals are guaranteed to get a boost in both flavor and nutrients, and the whole process is good for the soul, too.

7 top tips for vegetable gardening for beginners

With help from the experts, we’ve brought together some top advice to help you begin your new veg-growing endeavors. You’ll be enjoying a delicious harvest in no time.

1. Plan your vegetable garden

Every good garden – whether it’s filled with mostly flowers or veggies – needs to start with a plan. And when making your plan, there are a few key factors to consider, such as how much space you have available, how much sun the area gets, and the soil type you have.

‘Don’t forget that where room is at a premium, you can grow most vegetables in containers,’ says Jack Wallington, a garden designer speaking on a video for the RHS. Even just one or two large planters can host myriad delicious crops. 

'Plants like tomatoes, salad leaves, chilis, beetroot, and dwarf varieties of peas and beans are all worthy contenders for this,' says Sarah Squire, Chairman of Squire's Garden Centres. 'Tomatoes may require a little more attention than the others on this list but are too delicious not to mention. Strawberries make good outdoor "pot plants", too,' she adds. You can even grow potatoes in containers. 

Growing vegetables in pots is also a good solution for paved plots, or where soil is heavy, weed-ridden, and difficult to work with. Just remember to choose planters that have drainage holes, and keep on top of watering as they tend to dry out quickly.

If you do decide to grow your veggies straight in the ground, then consider whether you need to improve the soil first by removing any weeds, and digging in plenty of compost and perhaps some grit for drainage. You may want to opt for raised garden beds to make it easier to control the growing conditions (plus they look very attractive).

‘All vegetables prefer an open, sunny position, but some will tolerate partial shade,’ says John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. However, if you don’t have much sun in your plot, don’t despair. There are still varieties you can grow: he suggests lettuces (‘Little Gem’ and ‘Brighton’), green-leaved and white-stemmed ‘Barese’ chard, ‘Early Nantes’ carrots, and ‘Boltardy’ and ‘Chioggia’ beetroots.

2. Keep down costs

As mentioned, vegetable gardening for beginners – and experts – really needn’t cost a fortune. 

Whether you’re growing them in pots or raised beds, look to use recycled and reclaimed materials to keep costs down.

Seeds are more affordable than plug plants. Plus, you can always start with just a few packets, or even arrange to swap half-used packets with fellow gardener friends to extend the range of your crops.

Our tips on how to save money at the garden center and how to get free plants may also come in handy to help get you started without splashing the cash.

3. Pick easy vegetable varieties to start with

Choosing the vegetables you want to grow is super exciting. Narrow down your options by considering what tastes better homegrown and can be the most costly in the supermarket, Jack suggests. Think about how long they’ll take until they’re ready to harvest, too – you will probably want at least a few that will provide quick results, such as salad leaves. 

And remember – it’s important to grow things that you actually want to eat. ‘Aside from the enjoyment of spending time cultivating your vegetable patch, the result is where it all culminates,’ says the team at Power Sheds, who teamed up with the allotment enthusiasts in the nearly 50,000-strong Facebook community ‘Allotment Hints & Tips’ for top vegetable-growing advice. ‘Grow the things you’d usually have on your dinner table to give yourself the satisfaction of eating and enjoying the fruits of your labor at the end.’

If you’re a total newbie to gardening, it’s wise to start with just a select few varieties: that way you can really get to grips with tending to each and helping them thrive. There are lots of easy vegetables to grow that will reward you with tasty crops for little effort. The team at Thompson & Morgan, for instance, suggests radishes, as you can enjoy them just four weeks after sowing. They also suggest growing beetroots, which can be sown directly in the ground and only require you to thin out seedlings as they grow, which is simple. Runner beans and peas are other recommendations of theirs – the more you pick of them, the more will grow.

4. Read seed packets carefully

Every seed packet will have instructions on when and how to sow, so do read up on these before you buy. Our vegetable planting calendar will also come in useful to plan when to plant.

Many crops can be started early indoors, or in a greenhouse, says Jack. These include late winter lettuces and cauliflowers. With tropical crops, such as chilies or aubergines, an ‘early start is the best way to get them to produce a worthwhile crop,’ he adds. 

All you need to germinate seeds indoors is some seed compost and seed trays, plus a propagator with a lid or simply a sunny windowsill and a see-through plastic bag to cover them. Keep the soil around seedlings moist, says the RHS, using tap water to reduce the risk of pathogens which could affect their growth.

When they are big enough to handle, you can transfer them to individual pots. If moving them outside, ‘harden’ them off first – this means gradually acclimatizing them to outdoor temperatures – before putting them in their final position.

If you want results quicker, you may choose to opt for plug plants rather than growing your veggies from seeds. ‘Plug plants are widely available from garden centers and online, and all you need to do is pot them on once you get them home, nurture them for a couple of months, and plant them out after hardening them off,’ says John Negus.

5. Don’t forget to water

Water for your vegetable garden is an absolute must, which means, in dry weather, you’ll need to provide it yourself. ‘When a plant goes short of water it stops growing and often starts to go to seed prematurely (bolting) – or just dies,’ says the RHS.

Aim to keep the compost around your crops consistently moist. Allowing soil to dry out completely can result in crops splitting when you do give them water again, explains the RHS.

Think about ways to collect rainwater in the garden to keep energy costs down – a water butt or rain barrel, for instance, is a simple approach. And consider how you’re going to water plants while away on vacation, too – you wouldn’t want to return to see all your hard work spoiled by excessive sunshine and drought.

6. Watch out for pests

Pests can be a real pain for any gardener, regardless of experience. No one wants to see their precious plants destroyed by interlopers overnight.

Netting can provide protection from birds and butterflies, while there are plenty of ways to get rid of aphids, slugs, and even rabbits.

Cats can also be a problem as are known for digging up veg beds. ‘Protect newly-planted areas with circles of chicken wire for a few weeks while plants put down roots,’ suggests John Negus.

He also notes that there are a few products that are designed to deter cats, including pellets soaked in essence of lion dung called Silent Roar, available on Amazon.

7. Harvest at the right time, in the right way

For the very best results, you’ll want to harvest your lovingly-tended-to crops correctly. Some take much longer than others to reach maturity – cabbages, for instance – and require patience. But others may take a matter of a few weeks, while if you know how to harvest lettuce so it keeps growing, you can treat it as a cut-and-come-again crop.

Knowing when to harvest your vegetables will reward you with the tastiest crops as they’ll be at their peak. Ensure you know how to store them properly, too, so that all that work doesn’t go to waste.

Getting the lowdown on common tomato pests is always a good idea if you're tending to these delicious crops in your garden. That way, you can spot an interloper early, and take action as soon as possible.

After all, if you've put in all the effort of growing tomatoes, having your dreams of a healthy harvest dashed by intruder insects can be disheartening, to say the least. So, to keep your plants protected and enjoy plenty of juicy fruits, we've rounded up advice on the tomato pests to look out for and what to do should you spot them.

5 common tomato pests to look out for

Keep your kitchen garden in top health by keeping an eye out for these tomato pests.

1. Tomato moth caterpillar

Tomato moth caterpillars devour foliage and feed on fruit. Look out for shredded leaves, tunneled fruits, and trails of droppings – all signs that these intruders have got a hold of your crop.

You can pick them off by hand, advises John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. Additionally, spray with a contact insecticide that's safe for use on edible crops, such as BugClear for Fruit & Veg (available on Amazon).

'After harvesting fruit and removing spent plants, disinfect the greenhouse with a garlic candle, which most garden centers stock,' John continues. '
It will destroy overwintering moths and eggs.'

2. Tomato whitefly

Tomato whitefly are another interloper to look out for. These tiny tomato pests can quickly take over a crop, weakening plants while covering them with a sticky residue. They're not just a nuisance on tomato crops – they can be a problem for cucumbers, too, as well as other plants in the greenhouse.

'Initially, direct a gentle spray of water over the foliage, forcibly enough to dislodge eggs, nymphs, and adults, but not enough to damage leaves,' says John. 'If you don’t want to do that, wear a pair of rubber gloves and gently run your fingers along affected plants, squashing the whitefly.

'Sticky traps are one option, but they will also catch beneficial insects, such as pollinators and predators, so I tend to avoid using them where possible,' he continues. 'If the problem persists, I urge you to introduce Encarsia formosa, a tiny parasitic wasp that feeds on whitefly. Introduce it at seven-day intervals for a month or so to catch all stages of the pest. They will die off when the season ends and the temperature drops.'

3. Aphids

Aphids are very common tomato pests. Small, green, and pear-shaped, they'll suck the sap from your plants and although smaller numbers can often be tolerated, severe infestations can cause substantial damage.

Identify these intruders by looking for large clusters on the underside of leaves. Remove and discard affected foliage where possible. Incorporating wildlife garden ideas to your veg patch to encourage natural aphid predators can help to control them. Organic insecticides designed for edible crops may also do the trick if you're after a quicker approach.

Our dedicated guide on how to get rid of aphids has more info.

4. Slugs

Ah, slugs – every gardener's woe! These pests feast on all sorts of plants, and, given the chance, tomatoes are no exception.

Chomping through leaves and fruit overnight, they're certainly a nuisance. Keep vigilant and take action as soon as you spot them – they become truly troublesome in large numbers. 

Luckily, there are lots of natural ways to get rid of slugs in the garden, including setting up traps, creating barriers, and encouraging their predators to your plot. Our dedicated guide explains all.

5. Tomato eelworms

These tomato pests are also known as nematodes. The most common one to affect the crops is the root-knot nematode.

As the name suggests, these intruders affect the roots of tomatoes, turning them knobbly, which prevents the plants from getting the nutrients they need. They commonly affect peppers and carrots, too.

They're a tricky pest to control, so the best approach is to look for tomato varieties that have resistance to them. Crop rotation can also help.

Dig up and dispose of plants that are already badly affected and avoid growing more tomatoes, peppers, or carrots there again.

It's worth getting to know the common cucumber diseases and pests that can crop up in your grow-your-own patch. That way, you'll be able to identify them quickly and take action before the problem worsens.

Whether tending to them outdoors or in a greenhouse, learning how to grow cucumbers is pretty straightforward. But like most plants, they can be susceptible to certain insects and other ailments that can decrease the quality of their fruits – sometimes to the point of making them totally inedible. And sometimes, these problems lead to the plants producing no cucumbers at all.

We've rounded up the most common issues that can occur so you can keep an eye out, and enjoy your best cucumber harvest yet for freshening up summer salads and sandwiches.

Protect your homegrown crop by getting the lowdown on these common cucumber diseases and pests

Keep your raised garden beds or greenhouse free of cucumber pests and diseases with our advice.

1. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is a fungal cucumber disease. It can be a problem for many other plants too, including roses and courgettes. 

You can identify it by the white markings that will develop across the foliage. As it develops, it can affect plants' vigor and distort the leaves, causing them to turn yellow and die.

One of the main causes is humidity and heat, so be sure to space your plants out to encourage airflow. Drought can also increase the risk of it developing, so ensure you keep watering plants during dry periods.

Cut away affected parts of the plant as soon as you spot them for disposal.

2. Cucumber mosaic virus

This disease is quite easy to spot as it creates a distinctive, yellow, mosaic-like pattern on the foliage. The plants may stop flowering, and any cucumbers formed will be hard, small, and inedible.

As the RHS explains, this problem is spread around plants by aphids, so tackling them can reduce the risk. Our guide on how to get rid of aphids is full of useful tips to try.

Unfortunately, there is no known cure for cucumber mosaic virus. If you do see this disease on your cucumbers, destroy the infected plants. The RHS advises washing your hands afterward, before touching other plants, otherwise, you risk contaminating your healthy crops.

3. Red spider mite

Red spider mites are tiny, sap-sucking insects that give the foliage a mottled appearance. In severe infestations, they can cause leaves to drop, or kill plants entirely. They are commonly found in greenhouses as they like the warm conditions, and can first appear in early spring.

If you spot these cucumber pests, John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening, has some advice.

'I suggest that you spray your plants with SB Plant Invigorator [available on Amazon] at the first signs of infestation,' he says. This is a 3-in-1-action insecticide, fungicide, and foliar feed that is non-toxic. Alternatively, you could use another insecticide, but just ensure it is safe to use on edible crops and to follow the application instructions carefully.

'When the temperature rises to around 61ºF (16ºC), sprinkle the nematode parasite Phytoseiulus persimilis onto the leaves. Finally, spray with soft water to increase humidity and keep the temperature below 75ºF (23ºC),' John adds.

Cucumbers aren't the only plants affected by these pests – they attack all kinds, including tomatoes and aubergines. We have more tips on how to get rid of spider mites in our dedicated guide.

4. Whitefly

Whiteflies are a common pest that can be a nuisance in a warm greenhouse to all sorts of crops, including tomatoes and peppers.

These little, white bugs will infest your plants and cover them in a sticky substance known as 'honeydew'. This can lead to the growth of a sooty black mold. 

There are a few ways you can tackle these insects. For a natural approach, try introducing the parasitoid wasps, Encarsia formosa, to your greenhouse. As the RHS says, it's crucial to do so before an infestation becomes severe, as the effect won't be immediate.

Alternatively, you could use an organic insecticide – for instance, natural pyrethrum – to control the pests.

5. Angular leaf spot

Angular leaf spot is a bacterial disease that affects all of the gourd family, including squashes and melons.

Affected plants develop water-soaked spots on their leaves, which gradually expand in size. In hot conditions, a white crust can form around the blemishes. Over time, the spots dry out, turn yellow, and fall out, giving the foliage a tattered look. It can also result in a less-prolific harvest.

Look for cucumber varieties that have resistance to this disease, and avoid watering your plants directly from above (drip irrigation makes a better alternative). If you spot affected foliage, remove and dispose of it. Copper fungicides may also help to stop the disease from spreading – follow the package instructions.

Have you heard of fuchsia gall mites? If you're growing these pretty shrubs in your garden – whether that's in containers or borders – you'll want to keep an eye out for these nuisance pests.

Learning how to grow fuchsias is relatively easy until an infestation of these insects takes hold. Notoriously difficult to control, they have become an increasing problem for gardeners over the past 10 years, spoiling the appearance of these beloved shrubs and their ballerina-like blooms.

But, battling the bugs isn't impossible. We've provided all the info you need to save your fuchsias from these intruders.

How to identify fuchsia gall mites on your plants

Fuchsia gall mites are mainly active between early summer to early fall. They are tiny – only 0.20–0.25mm long – meaning you won't be able to spot them without a microscope. The damage they cause, however, is hard to miss.

Although they aren't fatal to plants, these pests drastically spoil their appearance and have detrimental effects on their growth. 

They have needle-like mouth parts which they use to suck sap from plant cells. They also secrete chemicals that prevent the normal formation of flowers and leaves. 'Infestation results in a mass of deformed tissue at the shoot tips,' explains John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening magazine. The flowers can also become distorted, or fail to develop entirely, and the leaves can take on a reddish hue.

How to treat fuchsia gall mites

Assuming that the plant is hardy, take your best secateurs and cut back infested shoots to near ground level and bin or burn prunings.

You can then spray the remaining plant with a bug killer for ornamental plants. However, not all of them will do the job: only ones that are recommended for controlling red spider mites are reasonably effective against fuchsia gall mites, says John. You may need to repeat applications – check the label for instructions.

With any luck, new, uninfested growth will appear in due course. 'If, however, the infestation is severe, remove and bin the entire plant,' he adds.

'Additionally, to reduce risk of spreading this pest when cutting back the plant, thoroughly clean and disinfect pruners when you move from one plant to another,' John continues.

The RHS also notes how a predatory mite (Amblyseius andersoni) is sold as a biological control of the fuchsia gall mite. Infested areas should be cut out to a minimum of 4in (10cm) below the affected growth before introducing the predators – this way, they will prevent the mites from causing damage to the plant's regrowth.

Are there any types of fuchsia that are resistant to fuchsia gall mites?

There are some varieties of fuchsia that are semi-resistant to fuchsia gall mites. These include 'Baby Chang', 'Cinnabarina', 'Miniature Jewels', 'Space Shuttle', Fuchsia microphylla subsp. hidalgensis, Fuchsia thymifolia, and Fuchsia venusta, lists the RHS. 

So, if you want to reduce the risk of these pests sabotaging your shrubs, try planting these in your flower beds and pots instead.

Most gardeners at some point or other want to know how to get rid of snails. These slimy pests may look relatively harmless – and indeed, in small numbers, they can be tolerated. But, once they've destroyed your precious plants overnight, you may feel obliged to take action and protect what's left of your raised beds or borders.

The good news is, there are lots of different methods that will keep these intruders under control – without having to reach for the chemicals. In fact, the natural methods for getting rid of slugs are mostly effective for snail prevention too, seeing as the two pests are incredibly similar.

How to get rid of snails – 6 simple methods to try

From learning how to get rid of wasps to how to get rid of ants, where there's a will there's a way, no matter what type of garden pest you're dealing with. 

These tips will help protect your plants from snails, so you can enjoy the maximum amount of blooms and edible crops.

1. Scatter coffee grounds around your plants

As well as being a great ingredient for the compost heap, coffee grounds appear to discourage snails when used as mulch around vulnerable plants, such as hostas, says the Amateur Gardening experts. They don't like the abrasive texture, and in large quantities, the caffeine can kill them. And that's not the only benefit of coffee – it can help boost the growth of your plants, too.

'Coffee grounds are a useful source of organic matter and nutrients. It is thought that they are particularly beneficial to acid-loving plants. However, although roasted coffee is acidic, it seems that brewing reduces the acidity and the used dregs have a fairly neutral pH,' they explain.

'Add a thin layer of fresh grounds to the soil surface and rake or lightly fork into the soil to prevent the grounds from becoming moldy and a crust forming on the surface.' Just avoid using coffee grounds around seedlings and young plants, particularly those with shallow root systems like lettuces and radishes.

2. Set beer traps

If you're looking for a way to get rid of snails that suits organic gardening, then making beer traps can be a good approach.

The best liquid to use is real ale, as 
it has a higher yeast content, which attracts the intruders. 

'Beer traps are useful, although other insects can also drop in,' says John Negus of Amateur Gardening. 'Pour the beer into an old pot and settle it in the soil with its lip above ground level so beneficial insects such as beetles are less likely to topple in and drown,' he says.

3. Try beneficial nematodes

Nematodes can be useful at tackling a variety of pests, including lawn grubs and aphids.

'You can buy a biological control called Nemaslug (available from Amazon), which contains nematode worms,' says John. It is thought that this can help tackle snails as well as slugs.

Water it onto the soil, and the microscopic worms will kill the interlopers. 'It is available online, and can be ordered through garden centers.'

4. Surround your plants with copper rings

If you want to protect your container garden from snails, copper bands or tape – available on Amazon – are an affordable solution that many gardeners opt for.

'Copper strips can be stuck around the rims of containers,' says John. These are thought to deter the pests. Alternatively, you can push circular copper bands into the soil around the plants in your flower beds.

However, the effectiveness of this method has been somewhat debated, with the RHS finding no reduction in plant damage when trying them out in a recent study. But, as they're budget-friendly, what's the harm in giving it a go?

5. Pick them off by hand

If you're not too squeamish, you can pick snails off your plants by hand, collecting them up in a bucket (you can do this to get rid of earwigs, too). They can then be transferred to a compost heap, or, as the RHS suggests, to an area of the garden with less-vulnerable plants.

They are most active at night, especially if conditions are warm but damp, so venture out after dark with a flashlight in hand. 

6. Encourage more birds to your garden

Many types of birds will prey on snails, as do other small creatures such as frogs, toads, and hedgehogs. So, consider bringing more wildlife garden ideas to your space to attract them – whether that's adding a pretty pond surrounded by plants, a bug hotel, or a bird bath.

There are more tips on how to attract birds to your garden in our guide.

How do you know if snails have been attacking your plants?

Snails leave slime trails – a tell-tale sign that they're in your garden. In terms of damage, they'll nibble large holes in the leaves, blooms, and fruits of plants. And they're not fussy – from veggies in your kitchen garden to dahlias in your flower beds, these pests will happily devour them all.

In fact, they'll also eat decomposing matter, such as leaf mold and mulch, and you may well spot them on your compost heap (although, of course, this is much more preferable than finding them on your plants).

They tend to come out after dark, and particularly like wet weather, says the RHS. Be especially vigilant in spring, when they will gravitate towards young seedlings and soft growth.

Have you heard about using ash in the garden? It might sound surprising, but trust us – it's definitely worth trying.

Once cool, that leftover debris from your chiminea, fire bowl, or other wood-fuelled fire pit is a handy and budget-friendly material that can be added to your flower beds. And there are multiple benefits in doing so – from fertilizing plants to keeping off pests. 

So next time you have a fire, don't dispose of the wood ash – put it to good use instead and you'll be rewarded with happier, healthier plants. We explain all you need to know. But before you begin, do note that using coal ash in the garden is a no-go, as it can contain harmful chemicals and heavy metals.

3 methods for using ash in the garden

Investing in one of the best fire pits will keep everyone cozy and up the ambiance of your plot. And with these tips, your plants can reap the benefits once the flames have gone out.

1. Using wood ash as a fertilizer

If you've read our guide on how to make fertilizer, you'll know that wood ash is one of the quickest and easiest approaches.

As John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening magazine explains, it can have a potash content of 4–15%, which helps fruit ripen and improves plants' resistance to diseases and adverse conditions. It can also include small amounts of phosphate, iron, magnesium, and manganese, he adds.

Plus, it is rich in calcium, which benefits clematis and other lime-loving plants, such as helianthemums and verbascums.

It can be used either fresh (but make sure it's cold) or stored in dry conditions before use. 'For scattering onto soil, use wood ash at a rate of 60g per square meter (2oz per square yard),' he advises. 

However, don't overdo it. 'Apply only once a year as wood ash can very quickly raise the pH of the soil.'

2. Using wood ash to improve soil structure

In terms of the different soil types, clay is arguably the trickiest to work with. But using ash in the garden is a good way to improve its dense and heavy structure.

'Its calcium content will help to break up the clay and make it warmer and easier to work,' says John.

'Simply scatter it over the surface at 1lb (0.5kg) per square meter,' advises the Amateur Gardening experts. When you go to dig it, perhaps to put some new flower bed ideas into action, you should notice the difference.

3. Using wood ash to deter slugs and snails

The Amateur Gardening experts also reveal that you can use wood ash to get rid of slugs and snails.

This trick is simple – just sprinkle a narrow ring of ash around your precious plants to deter the pests. It's a great alternative to pesticides, and much more suitable for organic gardening.

How should you store wood ash to use on the garden?

The potassium in wood ash is quickly leached out by rain, so it's important to store it under cover so it stays completely dry until you wish to use it. A non-flammable, metal container with a lid is best.

What plants should you not add wood ash to?

John Negus says to keep wood ash away from heathers, rhododendrons, and other ericaceous (lime-hating) plants. This is because it has an alkaline end reaction, which will be detrimental to their growth.

The RHS adds that using ash in the garden should be avoided in areas where you plan to grow potatoes. The alkalinity can encourage potato scab, a fungal disease that causes dark, scabby marks on the tubers.

When is the best time of year to use wood ash in the garden?

If you plan on using wood ash in the garden to give your soil a boost, it's best to wait until winter.

As the RHS explains, this is because it will give the compounds within the ash – which could burn your plants – to react with the damp soil and become harmless before you sow or add new plants in spring.

If you're only harvesting tough-skinned tomatoes, you may feel a little disappointed, especially if you planned to eat them fresh in summer salads or with nothing but a drizzle of olive oil. You're probably also wondering why, exactly, they are that way, rather than the plump and juicy fruits you imagined picking from your plants.

As it turns out, there are a few tips and tricks when growing tomatoes that will help prevent those tough skins from forming. And once you've got the know-how and tweaked your tomato care routine, you'll be rewarded with a perfect harvest to be proud of.

3 reasons for tough-skinned tomatoes, and how to avoid them

Whether you're growing your tomatoes in raised garden beds or as vegetables in pots, avoiding these common issues will help keep their skins soft rather than tough, chewy, and a little bitter.

1. Over-feeding your tomatoes

Fertilizing your plants can give them a boost and help to increase yields, but overdoing it can cause tougher skins on your tomatoes.

'The most common reason for tomato skins being tough is over-feeding with high-potash fertilizers,' explains John Negus, a gardening expert from Amateur Gardening. 

'Many books and experts recommend using tomato feed once the fruits have started to develop, but I would recommend alternating between tomato feed (high in potassium to promote fruiting) and balanced feed (with good levels of nitrogen to promote leafy growth).

'The strongest and healthiest plants have access to the full range of nutrients required for growth, and to concentrate on one aspect, potentially at the expense of others, will not promote good all-round growth or vigor,' he adds.

2. Too much heat

Although tomatoes generally thrive in the sun, excessive amounts can cause problems.

'Tough skins can also arise due to too much heat or sunlight,' John says. This is because it encourages the cells of the fruits to thicken.

'If the plants are in a greenhouse, make sure it is properly ventilated and lightly shaded,' he suggests – you can buy shading netting on Amazon. 'Next year, if a long and warm spell is forecast, coat the glass with white shading paint to temper sun heat,' he adds.

3. Insufficiently watering your tomatoes

Finally, tomato skins can become tough if the plants don't receive enough water. What's more, 
if the water supply suddenly increases after a period of drought, the plants will put on a spurt of growth. This may result in distorted growth and fruit-splitting, explains John. A lack of water can also impact your tomatoes' flavor – and not in a good way.

So, watering plants regularly and adequately is essential, making sure the compost never dries out. Equally, don't allow the soil to become waterlogged, which can also cause problems for your crop.

Are there any varieties of tomatoes that are resistant to developing tough skins?

If you want to make it easier to avoid growing tough-skinned tomatoes in your kitchen garden, you'll be pleased to know that there are a few varieties that are less susceptible.

'Tigerella' is one, which bears tasty, medium-sized fruits and is acclaimed for its thin skin, says John. There are also cherry varieties, such as 'Supersweet', 'Sun Grape', 'Sungold', and 'Sun Cherry'.

Pleasingly, seed companies are continuing to research into producing more tomato types that only rarely develop thick skins, John adds.