Wondering whether it's absolutely necessary to chit potatoes before planting them in the ground this year? It is a practice done by millions of gardeners around the world year-after-year and considered as an essential task by many. 

The first potato harvest of the year is always a momentous time for the home gardener. It is filled with anticipation as you lift the fork and hold your breath to see what comes up. The digging of the early potatoes normally starts in early summer and it can feel like guesswork about what your harvest will be. You can, however, help put the odds in your favor for a great crop by chitting your potatoes in the weeks before planting them.

Commercial growers do not chit potatoes, it is just something done by home gardeners as they will have heard countless stories about the benefits. If you've read about how to grow potatoes, it will typically recommend chitting them.

Personally, I have grown potatoes for many years, in gardens I worked in, on my allotment, and also in grow bags. I have tended to follow the masses and chit my potatoes, however not always. On one occasion I even simply planted leftover shop-bought potatoes from the back of the cupboard. 

Why do gardeners chit potatoes? 

Chitting potatoes is a very traditional task of encouraging seed potatoes to grow sprouts indoors before you have even planted them in the ground in your kitchen garden or raised garden beds. This process gives them a good head start when it comes to growing and reduces the amount of time it will take till harvest. 

It is also long-regarded that chitting potatoes gives a bigger potato harvest. This is because you are helping give them a very long season by starting them into growth as early as possible. By giving your seed potatoes lots of light and warmth it brings them out of their dormancy period and kick-starts their growing mode. 

There are three main types of potatoes to grow and their names correlate to when they are planted and harvested. They are first earlies, second earlies, and maincrop. Suttons claims that gardeners should 'definitely' chit first and second early varieties, adding: 'for maincrop spuds, it’s less important, but still a good idea if you have time.'

Monty Don, presenter of TV’s Gardeners' World, wrote on his blog: 'When these "chitted" potatoes are planted they are primed to grow away extra quickly. This is especially beneficial for first earlies or maincrop varieties grown where blight is likely.'

Potato blight is a disease that affects a potato plant’s foliage and also the tubers and, as the RHS website explains, it causes rotting and is 'most common in warm, wet weather'.

 How to chit potatoes at home 

Arrange the seed potatoes in egg boxes or seed trays, with the ‘eyes’ facing upwards and place them somewhere light. Adequate light is important as, without it, the growth of the sprouts will be leggy and very easily damaged when planting out in the garden. 

A porch or windowsill is an ideal location but care needs to be taken to make sure they are not affected by high temperatures, such as from central heating or radiators.

John Negus, expert from Amateur Gardening, advises: 'Tubers should be placed rose (bud) end uppermost in seed trays in good light, in a temperature of around 50˚F (10˚C). Sprouts normally appear after three or four weeks.'

The ideal sprouts should be short and stubby, green and almost purple in color. After the first couple of weeks, leave three or four of the largest shoots and rub off the others. The potatoes should be regularly checked and any starting to go moldy need to be thrown out.

 When and where to chit potatoes

The exact time for when to chit your potatoes will be dictated by where you live and where you are planning to grow your potatoes.

You can start chitting potatoes from mid-winter onwards and the aim is to give them six weeks to start growing and put out shoots before planting them into the ground. The soil temperature needs to reach between 42.8˚F (6˚C) and 50˚F (10˚C) for the ground to be ready.

Some areas will be prone to late frosts and that will have a knock-on effect to when to start chitting potatoes. A good rule of thumb is to aim to start the process four to six weeks before you want to plant potatoes outdoors.

Potatoes can, of course, be planted undercover and that allows for chitting to be started even earlier. Growing potatoes in containers can be started as early as mid-winter in a heated greenhouse to provide a really early harvest of potatoes.

 Is it always better to chit potatoes? 

Chitting potatoes does take up time and space, something that maybe not everyone has. A windowsill is the perfect place to chit potatoes and people might not have the space required – especially if they are wanting to grow a good number of potatoes. Tray upon tray of egg boxes can potentially take up lots of space.

If there is a long and cold wet spell that means your chitted potatoes cannot be planted out on time, it can lead to them having long sprouts that can be easily broken. Any damage to them will have a detrimental effect on the yield and mean the chitting could be seen as a waste of time. Also, the earlier the growth, the increased risk of potential frost damage from a particularly late cold spell in spring.

There is a school of thought that chitting is not actually necessary and there have been several trials run to find out if it is. For example, Which? Gardening magazine in the UK trialed chitted and unchitted potatoes – using the varieties ‘Maris Piper’ and ‘Sarpo Mira’ – and found that overall 'there wasn’t much difference in the yield'. 

However, James Wong, gardening expert and writer, wrote in the Guardian newspaper that global studies did show that chitting can increase the potato yield. He cited studies by both the Department for Environment, Food and Rural Affairs, along with other trials in both the UK and Canada. 

He wrote: 'If, on the other hand, yield doesn’t concern you that much and it is smaller, new spuds you are after in exchange for less work and more windowsill space, ditch the chitting altogether.'

Potatoes will undoubtedly grow whether they have been chitted or not. If you plant them at the right time and give them the conditions in which to grow, then they will grow perfectly.  Anyone who has grown potatoes will have experienced that, if you miss a potato at harvest time, it sits in the ground and then grows absolutely fine when the weather gets warm.

If you have the time and space to chit potatoes, then it is a worthwhile task. However, no one needs to feel that it is absolutely vital and they will not get to enjoy the joys of harvesting potatoes without having chitted them.  

Growing any vegetable is all about enjoying the process and the satisfaction that comes from eating what you have grown. If you do not have time or space to be able to chit your potatoes, then don’t worry. Plant them straight out in the ground and you will still get to enjoy some delicious homegrown potatoes.

Orchid root rot is a common problem with these popular plants, and can be caused by a number of things such as overwatering or a fungal infection. The good news, however, is that an orchid with root rot can usually be saved if you spot it quickly and take action to fix the problem.

Orchids are susceptible to root rot because they need a very free-draining potting mix. Around 70% of the 28,000 species grow as epiphytes – on trees – so have hardly any growing medium around their roots, just a few dead leaves, twigs, or some moss, which prevents them drying out completely. 

Epiphytes’ roots are adapted to this. For example, Phalaenopsis (moth orchids) and Vanda roots store water in a thick, outer layer called velumen. The sponge-like cells absorb water, and vapor from the air, until it is needed. When velumen is full of water it looks green, then as it dries out it becomes silver. Only water your Phalaenopsis once the roots have become silvery – if they look green, don’t water!

What does orchid root rot look like? 

Whatever type of orchid you are growing, if your plant is suffering from orchid root rot, there are a couple of telltale signs to look out for. 

• Some, or all, of the orchid's roots will be soft, mushy, brown or darker than usual.
• The leaves are limp and wrinkled. Remember that an overwatered plant looks like an underwatered one – in each case, leaves wilt because the roots can’t take up water.

What causes orchid root rot? 

There are three main causes of orchid root rot. Once you know what these are it should make it easier to prevent the problem occurring. 

1. Overwatering

This is the usual cause of orchid root rot. It can be caused by watering plants too frequently or allowing your plant to stand in water for more than 20 minutes. 

Overwatering can also be caused by the breakdown of the potting mix leading to it holding on to water, and reducing air around the roots. 

To make sure you don't overwater your orchid, aim to water it about once a week. If it only dries out enough to need watering every two to three weeks, you need to repot it into fresh potting mix (see below). And if that doesn’t resolve it, increase the drainage.

It's worth noting that even if the top surface of your soil is bone dry, the center of your pot can still be wet. A quick way of checking to see if your potting mix is actually dry is to take a bamboo skewer and gently insert it, taking care to avoid the roots. Twist it a few times then remove to see where there are moisture marks on the skewer as this will indicate the moisture level in your pot. 

Overwatering can also be one of the main reasons your orchid leaves are drooping or turning yellow too. 

2. Watering late in the day or in the evening

Always water your orchid in the morning, unless you have exceptionally good air movement, such as in a breezy spot outdoors in Florida. According to The American Orchid Society, this ensures that the water will 'have evaporated from the foliage and crown by nightfall' and there is therefore less risk of it rotting the roots. 

If you grow epiphytic orchids under a roof outside, in USDA Hardiness Zone 11, 10, or similar, they may be exposed to heavy rainfall, which can eventually rot the roots. Move them so you control the amount of water they get, and when.

3. Infection

Infection and pests can be one of the main reasons why your orchid is dying from root rot. This is more common in a greenhouse where humidity is high, or outdoors in areas with a hot, wet, growing season, such as Florida. 

Both fusarium wilt and rhizoctonia root rot are fungal diseases that are hard to control and spread easily. If your orchid succumbs to either of these, it is often best to throw the plant away. 

There's a small chance you could rescue the plant by isolating it, disinfecting all your tools and repotting your orchid in fresh compost, cutting off all dead and dying material. Apply a fungicide drench after repotting, such as Thyomil (available at Amazon) or Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (H2O2) - also available at Amazon. Reapply two weeks later, and regularly through hot, wet weather. 

Repairing orchid root rot

If your plant already has orchid root rot, the best option is to repot it into new potting mix. For most orchids, repot just as new leaf growth starts, ideally before new roots emerge so they don’t get damaged. 

Once you've cut off all of the dead, soft, mushy, or desiccated roots at the base, dust the cut surfaces with cinnamon as it can be used as a natural fungicide. It can also be a good idea to add charcoal to the potting mix. It doesn’t rot so keeps the mix open, and also makes the pH sweeter (less acid). 

Spray Hydrogen Peroxide 3% (H2O2) on the roots, then apply as a compost drench once you've planted your orchid in a fresh, clean pot.

Top tip: If you buy a Phalaenopsis growing in sphagnum moss, repot it into a bark-based potting mix because it will be easier to maintain and water correctly.

Improving drainage to prevent orchid root rot

To prevent your orchid from becoming waterlogged and developing root rot, it's important to ensure it has good drainage. These are my tried-and-tested methods for achieving this: 

• Add stones or gravel to the bottom of the orchid's pot. Or use Styrofoam peanuts (polystyrene chips), try Amazon, but do be aware that these don’t rot down and can’t be recycled so they aren't the most eco-friendly choice. 
• Add extra holes to your plastic pot to increase air movement and prevent soggy potting mix. Use a drill, or cut slits with a small but sharp knife.
• Add extra drainage material to the middle of larger pots as the center holds water longer. I have a large, old Phalaenopsis, now in a 6-inch pot (2 litre), so when I repotted, I added a central core of Styrofoam peanuts to stop hidden waterlogging. 

How to rescue an orchid with hardly any roots

If only a few roots remain on your orchid because the majority have been damaged by root rot, wrap them in sphagnum moss (available from Amazon) and place the whole plant in a plastic bag, large screw-top jar, or covered seed tray, to keep humidity even. This stops the plant dehydrating and aids new root growth.

Ron McHatton, Chief Education & Science Officer for the American Orchid Society says, 'Strip off any dead, old leaf bases, which would otherwise rot, and put the plant in the moss up to its lowest leaf.' 

Ron recommends using a big pickle jar or a pretzel jar. Place the plant or pot on pot feet, or pebbles, inside the bag or jar, to keep it out of any condensation that pools at the bottom, as this will be wicked up by the moss. Loosely seal the bag or jar and keep it out of direct sun, in good light (the normal light levels for your orchid). Every few days, check the surface of the moss is moist, and mist it if it dries out. New roots should begin to form in a few weeks.

Could orchid root problems be caused by anything else?

If the roots of your orchid are short and tipped in black, but not soft and mushy, this is caused by a build-up of salts in the potting mix rather than orchid root rot. New roots grow until they touch the mix, then blacken at the tip.

To remedy this, repot the plant into new potting mix. Then add fertilizer three out of every four waterings, using plain water to flush the salts on the fourth watering. 

How long hot tubs last is an important factor to consider when shopping for a garden spa. After all, the longevity of a design can help sway your decision when choosing the best hot tub for your backyard.

There are two distinct categories available – inflatable hot tubs and rigid hot tubs – says Cara Bradney of Hydrolife. 'As with most things in life, you do tend to get what you pay for,' she adds. In most cases, you'll need to weigh up the upfront costs with how quickly a tub needs replacing.

How long do inflatable hot tubs last?

'If you are just dipping your toe in, so to speak, to see if a hot tub is right for you, then an inflatable one might be a good place to start,' says Cara. 

The portability, affordability and rapid setup time makes inflatable hot tubs a tempting backyard addition for many homeowners – and there are plenty available to buy (including many on Amazon). However, they don't tend to last as long as rigid designs.

'In general, inflatable hot tubs have a shorter lifespan of three to five years,' says the team at Lay-Z-Spa, a leading brand of inflatable tubs. 'However, if they are properly cared for, they could last for up to seven to ten years or more.

'Hard shell hot tubs typically have a slightly longer expected lifespan,' the team continues, 'however, they cost significantly more upfront to purchase and install.'

How long do acrylic hot tubs last?

If you want a more permanent patio feature, then consider a rigid tub made from durable acrylic. These luxurious spas – often with LED lighting, waterfall features, and sometimes, Bluetooth speakers – are more expensive than inflatable ones and can't be moved around your plot. But on the plus side, they last longer.

'If you buy wisely, you should be enjoying soaking in the garden for well over ten years,' says Cara. 'At Hydrolife, we often hear from our customers who have had their Jacuzzi hot tub for around 15 years.'

How long do wooden hot tubs last?

Like acrylic tubs, wooden tubs (which are often wood-fired, too) can be expected to last longer than inflatable ones. Plus, they have the benefit of a more organic look.

There are a few things that can impact the longevity of a wooden hot tub's life, as explains Will Stewart, the founder and director of Cedar Spring Recreation.

These include the type and quality of wood used, which plays a massive role in a tub's lifespan, he says. 'For this reason, most traditional wooden tubs in North America are made of Western red cedar, while Japanese Ofuro soaking tubs are most commonly cypress or hinoki. These woods have a natural ability to resist rot and carry natural longevity.'

Ensuring the foundation beneath the tub is away from standing water can also help delay the onset of wood rot, as can an internal finishing, such as a sealant, or a vinyl or steel lining, adds Will.

As with any style of spa, hot tub maintenance is essential, too, to increase their longevity. 'It's not uncommon for an extremely well-maintained cedar hot tub to be in use nearly two decades after being built,' says Will.

More top tips to help your hot tub last longer

A regular cleaning routine is essential – 'It is always important to follow the manufacturer’s recommended maintenance and care guidelines, regular cleaning of the water, replacing filters, and checking and maintaining the pH balance of the spa water,' says Lay-Z-Spa. Proper hot tub winter care can also help it stand the test of time.

And if an inflatable tub gets a puncture, it's often possible to fix it. Lay-Z-Spa supplies a repair patch with their tubs, and also sells a Vinyl Repair Kit that will help create a secure and durable repair for continued long-lasting use.

It's also important to buy your tub from a trusted retailer. 

Whatever your budget, buying a hot tub is an investment and it's important that it lasts as long as you expect it to. It's also essential that the retailer will be able to stand the test of time and supply replacement parts down the line, if needs be, says Cara. 'If the company you bought the hot tub from can no longer source a part for you, it might result in you having to replace the whole item,' she says.

'Sadly, there are unscrupulous retailers out there,' says the experts at The British and Irish Spa and Hot Tub Association (BISHTA). They highlight how these are especially prevalent online, through marketplace websites and particularly ‘only’ on social media, trying to capitalize on the surge in demand for hot tubs.

'Some are selling cheaply made products that can cost you more money in the long term to run as they are much less energy-efficient. The companies selling these hot tubs may not be capable of replacing cheap parts that malfunction,' they add.

Hot tub warranties are also really important, Cara says, and they vary massively across the industry. 'The best advice is to do your research. Find out where they are made and understand how the warranty works. Some companies, like Jacuzzi, include the cost of labor in their warranty – but many don't.'

Learning how to protect plants from wind damage is a must when windy weather is forecast. In strong winds, plants can be damaged by stems snapping, and leaves and buds getting knocked off. Wind will also make plants dry out faster, adding yet more stress to your plants. 

If your garden is in an exposed location such as on a hill or by the sea you will definitely need to find out how to protect plants from wind damage. But even if your garden is relatively sheltered your plants may still be subject to wind damage in extreme weather conditions. High winds can damage young seedlings, force over taller bedding plants and even uproot trees.

Some plants are hardy and won't be troubled by wind damage. However, many plants won't respond well to be battered by high winds, whether they're planted in pots or in the ground. Being prepared and providing protection before this happens is just as important as protecting plants from frost in winter and dealing with common pests throughout the year. 

It's worth bearing in mind that every garden is different when it comes to wind direction. Work out where the wind in your garden typically comes from. Wind direction and strength will vary according to the season too. Search online to help you find information about the  ‘prevailing winds’ in your area. 

'The lie of the land (topography) affects wind direction and must be taken into account,' according to the experts at the Royal Horticultural Society. 'Hilly sites may need shelter on several sides as wind can come over a hill and also produce gusts round the sides. Wind can also be funnelled along valleys, between lines of trees or tall buildings, creating what is known as a wind tunnel.'

Find out what you can about your own garden then factor in this information as you'll need it to prepare a garden for winter, which is when strong, damaging winds are typically more of a problem in many areas.

6 tips on how to protect plants from wind damage

These simple steps will help keep your plants safe from damaging winds and are key when it comes to how to protect plants from winter too.

1. Plant a living windbreak

A living windbreak is another term for a hedge so adding one to your yard is not a short term fix but more of a longer term project. If your garden is very exposed and you have form when it comes to losing plants then living windbreaks of fast growing trees and hedging plants are the most attractive and long-lasting option.

Windbreaks are semi-permeable barriers that reduce wind speed and provide shelter for plants. Choose shrubs and trees that are suitable and plant them fairly close together. The best time of year to plant your living screen is in fall, winter or early spring.

'Whether trying to create some shelter from the wind in your garden or a windbreak across fields, planting trees and shrubs can provide an excellent screen,' says Morris Hankinson, MD of Hopes Grove Nurseries. 'These living windbreaks create a semi-permeable barrier to reduce the wind speed and therefore provide shelter. Alders are a popular choice for windbreak hedging plants as they grow to a good height quickly, are easy to establish, harbour few pests and diseases, while keeping their protective wind suppressing foliage late in the season. Plus they're a good choice if you're on a budget.' 

The larger the area that you are able to plant the more effective the windbreak will be, especially when using a mix of trees and shrubs. This sort of combination, spaced carefully, works best, slowing the wind but allowing it to permeate through.

If you live by the sea choose trees such as Italian alder, common alder, hornbeam, white willow and mountain ash, which are all suitable for exposed coastal sites. When it comes to shrubs for seaside gardens, hawthorn and sea buckthorn are among the best coastal plants for adding a windbreak.

2. Erect a woven artificial windbreak

To be effective, windbreaks must work by slowing down the wind to reduce its strength so you also have the option of putting up an artificial screen. These are a great idea as they offer immediate protection.

The best ones are made from materials such as woven willow or hazel hurdles that allow wind to filter through and in so doing blunt its force. Solid garden fences aren't suitable for slowing down high winds but woven hurdles work really well. 

Artificial garden screening can be used alone or together with living windbreaks to provide shelter while the plants get established. Measure up accurately rather than leaving it to guesswork as windbreaks should be slightly wider than the area needing protection, to prevent wind whipping round the edges and causing damage to plants you thought were protected.

3. Think carefully about where you plant

Take a fresh look at your garden and assess which areas are most exposed to any prevailing winds. Gardening in areas with high wind can be tricky, so opt for plants that are happy in windy gardens and take care when choosing where in the garden to plant them.

If you have a sloping garden, for example, plants at the top or the bottom will be more exposed than any planted in the middle. In the northern hemipshere, remember that any plants on the south side of your house on a sheltered patio or deck, as well as those planted against sheds and other garden buildings will get natural protection from north winds.

The best way to prevent wind damage is to choose plants that are hardy enough to withstand the winter conditions they will be living in. 'If you just have to have that Southern Magnolia, choose a place in your landscape where it can be protected from severely cold north winds,' says horticulturalist Daniel Carl of Arrowwood Landscape Design based in Pennsylvania. 'Also, plant cold sensitive plants in the spring rather than the fall. This will give them more time to establish their new roots before the stress of winter.

There are lots of types of ornamental grass and low-growing ground cover plants that will tolerate wind more easily, making them good choices for windy gardens. 

4. Give tall plants additional support

If you know high winds are forecast check around your yard to spot any potential problems that need addressing ahead of time. Add support to tall plants and stop them snapping by driving stakes or poles firmly into the ground and tying plants securely to them. Wigwam designs are generally the sturdiest option. 

Make sure obelisks and other climbing support ideas are well anchored, and that plants growing over them are tied in. Check trellises to make sure they are firm and that climbing plants are tied to them securely.

Pots, planters and other container gardening ideas with displays of tall plants should be moved to a sheltered spot and given additional canes to support them if you think it's necessary. 

5. Give plants a quick tidy-up before high winds arrive

Cast your eye over your yard and be on the lookout for vulnerable looking branches and stems that could snap off in high winds. Trim back any overhanging branches that could cause damage to plants growing underneath or sheds and cabins in the event they are felled by wind.

Trim back any top-heavy plants to give them more stability. In the fall it's a good idea to prune roses to reduce the height of shrubs by around a third to help protect them from winter winds. 

Some shrubs can suffer with 'wind rock' too, where the wind loosens roots and in the worst case up-ends the plant from the ground, so it's worth doing a check to make sure that shrubs are planted firmly in the ground.

6. Cover small plants with cloches

If windy weather is forecast it's worth protecting small and delicate plants for peace of mind as winds could wreak havoc. Try improvising with a homemade cloche. Simply cut several large plastic bottles in half and invert the top halves over your plants as a quick and easy on the spot solution. Be sure to push them firmly into the ground so they aren't blown away once the wind whips up.

Protect tender young winter or spring vegetable crops in your kitchen garden in the same way too. If you have a large area of vegetable garden consider net cloches or polytunnels to reduce wind effects. Or use gardening fabric or burlap to cover the entire area. Weigh down the corners with bricks or use stakes to keep in place. If the weather is icy cold as well as windy, you may need a frost cloth for plants to give them some added protection too.

Learn how to grow a lemon tree at home and you can enjoy a juicy and fragrant slice of homegrown lemon in your gin and tonic, or other drink of choice. A fresh lemon picked straight off the tree will surpass those from a supermarket when it comes to any cooking, baking, teas, or lemonade.

A lemon is one of the best fruit trees to grow as they conjure up hazy summer memories of warm Mediterranean climates, boasting a beautifully perfumed blossom and tasty fruit. Indeed, citrus trees can flower and fruit year-round, so it is regular for them to have delicate white flowers showing while they are also carrying fruit. 

Lemon trees do love sunshine and warmth, there is no hiding that fact. However, it does not mean that it is not possible to grow them in cooler climates. Even though best suited to warmer regions, lemon trees can successfully be grown in colder areas by utilizing pots and indoor growing spaces.

How to grow a lemon tree outdoors 

Lemon trees will grow in tropical and subtropical regions. They are native to regions of southern Asia, Australia and the South Pacific, thriving in high temperatures and full sun to produce fruit. If you are wanting to grow lemon trees outdoors year-round, then you need to be in USDA Zones 9 to 11. 

The perfect climate for growing lemon trees would see temperatures between 77˚F (25˚C) and 86˚F (30˚C). While those temperatures are a far-flung dream for many, if you can provide a constant temperature range of 70˚F (21˚C) during the day and 55˚F (12˚C) at night, that would still keep a lemon tree very happy. 

To produce fruit, they need a long and warm growing season, able to bask in at least six months at a constantly balmy 68˚F (20˚C). With this in mind, they need to be planted in a sunny spot in the garden that gets at least 6-8 hours of sunlight a day.

It should come as no surprise that they also do not like the cold. The tree becomes dormant when the temperature gets below 55˚F (12˚C) and they do not cope with frosts. When the thermometer goes below freezing, the fruit is quickly killed and when it gets down past 26˚F (-3˚C), stems and leaves start to die.

Fortunately, lemon trees are more tolerant when it comes to soils. They will tolerate a wide range, their ideal being well-drained and slightly acidic. Loamy soil or sandy loam soil types work great. The key aspect is the drainage, as lemon trees do not like having their roots sitting in wet soil.

Whether growing these fruit trees in pots or in the ground, make sure you plant at the correct depth. Make a hole 1.5 times the root ball width and plant the tree at a depth just marginally higher than it was sitting in the pot you purchased it in. Give the tree a good topping of mulch to help retain moisture and add valuable nutrients to the soil.

How to grow a lemon tree indoors

Even if you don’t have a year-round tropical climate, that doesn't mean you need to forgo any ambitions of growing lemon trees. There are alternative avenues, such as growing indoors – the perfect solution for people living in a cool climate. Dwarfing varieties of lemon trees are ideal for this.

Lemon trees will still need a lot of light. If you can provide close to eight hours of sunlight a day, that is ideal. A conservatory or frost-free porch works great, or, consider placing the tree in front of south or southwest-facing windows. Artificial lighting can even be used for an extra boost. Make sure to keep the plant away from air conditioners or heating ducts. Extreme temperatures, both hot and cold, will cause stress to your indoor tree.

In late spring, when the outdoor temperatures increase after the last frosts have passed, open windows or vents to stop the plant from overheating indoors. You can also take your lemon tree outside and allow it to bask in the sun’s rays. If you do this, slowly acclimatize the plant to the outdoors, as the shock caused by going straight from indoors to full sun risks burning the leaves.

Keep the tree outside and enjoy the Mediterranean garden vibe it brings to your space until the temperatures start to drop below 50˚F (10˚C). That is the cue to bring it back inside for protection over the colder months.

When is the best time to plant a lemon tree?

The best time to plant an outdoor lemon tree is during spring, so the roots will grow in warmer soil. If you live in a warmer climate or are growing your lemon tree indoors, it is possible to plant at any time of the year.

What type of container should you use for a lemon tree?

Lemon trees are one of the best trees to grow in pots, both outdoors and indoors. If you are moving the plant indoors over winter and outside again during summer, growing it in a pot means it's easy to relocate it. The pot can also be placed in the sunniest spot in the garden and moved if required, offering a quick fix if the need arises to bring the tree inside in an unexpected cold spell.

Citrus trees don’t need very large pots; you ultimately need a container a minimum of 20in (50cm) wide. Ruth Hayes, Gardening Editor of Amateur Gardening, advises that the pots shouldn't be too large as the roots will suffocate in too much empty compost.

Use a straight-sided container, as a bowl-like one will trap the roots and make the plant harder to remove when it comes to repotting it, she adds.

When growing fruit in pots, you need good drainage, so make sure your pot has holes to allow excess water to drain away.

Lemon tree care tips

Correct watering is essential to growing happy lemon trees – they are very sensitive and don’t respond well to over-watering. The secret is to water only when the soil is very dry, which you can check by using your fingers to feel down inside the pot. Assessing the weight of the pot is another good way to check – if the pot is very light, then the soil will be very dry. The best advice is to water heavily until it runs from the drainage holes out of the pot.

Any watering regime for lemon trees will change throughout the year; it will be regular throughout the summer (likely at least once or twice a week) and become infrequent in winter months. You want to keep them almost dry in winter if you are in cooler regions – only properly start watering plants again once spring comes around.

Fertilize these plants year-round to keep them happy and producing fruit. This is mainly due to them flowering all year and tending to fruit in the winter months. In spring, they need a fortnightly feed with a specialist citrus food, such as Citrus Focus, available on Amazon. During the summer, this increases to a weekly feed. In fall and winter, it can be reduced to around once a month – a general-purpose liquid fertilizer can be used, although specific winter citrus feeds are also available.

The plants like a humid atmosphere – up to 50% humidity. You can help create this around the trees by misting the plants, damping down the floor if they are in a glasshouse, or standing plants on trays of moist gravel. 

Citrus trees do not require much pruning. Learning how to prune a lemon tree is essential, but it is a simple process and primarily tends to be directed at keeping the tree reshaped and compact. The best time to prune is in spring.

Lemon tree problems and how to solve them

A lot of problems with lemon trees can be attributed to incorrect watering and fertilizing. An example of this is yellow leaves – a common sight that can be a sign of nutrient deficiency or the tree sitting in soggy soil.

Graham Rice, a garden expert, warns that the most common pests are aphids, red spider mites, mealybugs and scale insects. Aphids cause problems feeding on new growth and can cause leaves to distort, and red spider mite is commonly an issue on trees in greenhouses and conservatories.

'You can usually tolerate minor problems without taking action, or you can squash small infestations with your fingers. Localized problems can also be dealt with by dipping cotton buds in insecticide for spot treatment,' he recommends.

'Choose non-persistent organic treatments that contain fatty acids, natural pyrethrum or plant oils. Spray where needed, not the whole plant.'

Where to buy lemon trees

Now you know how to grow a lemon tree, you may want one for your own plot. Our quicklinks will help you get started:

Shop lemon trees in the US:

• Shop lemon trees at Nature Hills
• Shop lemon trees at Amazon
• Shop lemon trees at Burpee

Shop lemon trees in the UK:

• Shop lemon trees at Amazon
• Shop lemon trees at Crocus
• Shop lemon trees at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop lemon trees at Suttons

Getting in the know about houseplant diseases is a must if you're growing your own indoor garden. That way, you'll know how to spot the telltale signs as soon as they appear, meaning you can take action to save your plant babies quickly.

What's more, getting clued up about possible ailments and their causes can help you avoid them happening in the first place – and prevention is often simpler than cure. So, if you want to keep your best indoor plants looking beautiful, this guide will come in handy.

5 houseplant diseases to stay clear of

Keep your indoor garden looking in tip-top health by avoiding these diseases.

1. Mold

Gray mold, otherwise known as Botrytis blight, is caused by the fungus Botrytis cinerea. Affecting garden plants as well as those grown indoors, it generally takes hold in humid, cold, airless environments, where spores land on areas of the plants that are already damaged. As the RHS explains, a fuzzy, gray-brown coating will appear. Eventually, it can kill plants. 

The Amateur Gardening experts advise cutting back affected shoots, and keeping plants drier and warmer. You can also improve ventilation to reduce humidity, says the RHS. Dead plant material should be cleared away.

Also, look out for white mold on houseplant soil. Although less of a concern, it does spoil the aesthetics of your indoor plant ideas somewhat and signals that conditions for your plant aren't quite right. 

'This can be caused by too much water and poor drainage, as well as a lack of sunlight,' Jo Lambell, Founder of Beards & Daisies, explains. 'Damp, low-light conditions are the perfect recipe for mold to take hold – so you’ll want to get to the bottom of the issue and address it fast.'

If your soil has white mold growing in it, Jo recommends repotting your plant and placing it in direct sunlight for a little while. You can even add an antifungal to the potting mix when you repot your plant, she adds.

2. Sooty mold

Sooty mold comes hand-in-hand with sap-sucking pests, such as scale insects and aphids. These bugs exude a sticky substance called honeydew, which attracts the fungus that causes the disease, explains the Amateur Gardening experts. 

'It is black and can coat leaves, reducing their ability to photosynthesize. The end result is a weakened plant that struggles to grow.'

Regrettably, there are no fungicides to control the disease, says John, although he does note that smaller patches can be wiped off with lukewarm water and a cloth. The important thing to do is to tackle the pests. An organic insecticide based on fatty acids and vegetable oils can be effective (try Amazon), as can wiping the stems and leaves clean with a mild detergent solution, the Amateur Gardening experts suggest. 

'Once the plant is clean, be vigilant for pest recurrence, as it's easier to deal with a light infestation,' they add.

'When the creatures have been eradicated and the honeydew source ceases, the sooty mold will, eventually, disappear,' says John.

3. Root rot

'Root rot is a common problem for plants which have been overwatered and end up waterlogged,' explains Jo.

'Your plants’ roots, whilst responsible for drinking up as much water as possible to keep your plant happy, also need some breathing space. If your soil becomes waterlogged, then the roots of your plant can no longer perform their job and end up rotting,' Jo explains. Indoor succulents are particularly susceptible.

'You’ll usually notice this pretty quickly, as your plant will smell quite unpleasant,' Jo continues. Your plant may also wilt. 'Unfortunately, once the roots of your plant have suffered root rot, it can be irreversible. This isn’t the case for every plant and does depend on the severity and how much rot has set in.'

If you think your plant still stands a chance, Jo recommends repotting your plant in new soil. As you do so, remove any roots that look rotten, salvaging any healthy ones. Then, take extra precautions not to overwater your houseplant, and with a bit of luck, it will return to its former glory.

4. Rust

Rust is another fungal disease that sometimes affects indoor plants. Although it isn't generally fatal, it does spoil the look of foliage, causing rusty-orange blemishes on the undersides and white patches on the top.

A plant that's particularly susceptible is Oxalis triangularis (although growing it indoors rather than outdoors does reduce the chances of infection). Fuchsias and pelargoniums grown indoors are also at risk.

'Avoid feeds that are high in nitrogen as this promotes soft growth, which is more susceptible to rust,' says Amateur Gardening. Keeping the foliage dry when watering your plants, and providing plenty of airflow around them can also help prevent it.

If you spot rust, clear away and dispose of all the affected leaves and debris from around the plants, says the Amateur Gardening experts. This should eradicate any spores that would otherwise overwinter. 'Next summer, be vigilant and remove affected leaves as soon as you see the telltale pale leaf spots forming.'

You can also spray affected plants with a fungicide, such as Fungus Clear Ultra (available on Amazon), says John.

5. Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew is commonly seen on a wide range of outdoor plants – from courgettes to clematis. But it can affect indoor plants too, particularly if they've had a short stint outdoors to soak up some summer sunshine (the fungal spores are often airborne).

It generally isn't fatal. However, it spoils the look of plants, appearing as an unsightly, gray-silver coating on foliage and sometimes spreads to stems and flowers, too. 

To treat it, remove the worst of the affected areas. The RHS recommends improving ventilation, and avoiding your plant sitting with wet leaves, particularly in cool temperatures or throughout the night. A broad spectrum fungicide may have incidental control, they add.

What is the worst houseplant disease?

Root rot is one of the worst houseplant diseases, as plants that are affected can be difficult to rescue. Luckily, it's also one of the easiest to avoid if you pay close attention to your watering schedule.

But it's important to remember that diseases aren't the only reason why houseplants die – there are other things to look out for, too. These include giving them the right amount of humidity and light, and repotting them when necessary. At the end of the day, if you give your plants the care and environmental conditions they need, they're most likely to reward you with long-lasting, luscious greenery.

Wondering how to season a pizza stone so you can use it on your barbecue? Pizza is the perfect dish to add to your outdoor menus, widening the range of foods you serve up for friends and family outdoors. 

What’s more, cooking pizza on the best BBQ isn’t hard to do. What you will need, though, is a pizza stone on which to put the pie so the base becomes crisp while the toppings cook beautifully, too.

Crucially, you don’t want the pizza to stick, which is why you might be asking about how to season a pizza stone – and our expert guide will give you the answers you need.

How to season a pizza stone

Before you think about how to season a pizza stone, be sure you have the right one. Always invest in a stone that’s made for use on gas BBQs or charcoal models, depending on what you own, or for use in a wood-fired pizza oven if you have built your own from scratch. 

After that, seasoning a pizza stone – in other words, treating it so it’s prepared for use – is a cinch. Here’s how.

1. When you’ve unpacked the new pizza stone, wipe it down with a damp cloth. Be sure never to immerse it in water, nor use dish soap. Wiping will remove any residue left over from the manufacturing process.
2. Leave it to dry overnight so all the moisture has evaporated.
3. Before cooking on the pizza stone, be sure you know how to use a pizza stone on a grill correctly and preheat it thoroughly. Fail to do this, and you risk cracking the stone.

Why isn’t a pizza stone seasoned like cast iron?

Cast-iron skillets are seasoned by heating oil to a high temperature. The baked-on oil creates a protective layer that prevents the pan from rusting and reduces sticking of food cooked in it.

A pizza stone isn’t in danger of rusting, so it doesn’t need that protection. And the way in which a pizza stone works is that it absorbs moisture from the pizza to leave the pie with a light and crispy crust. For this reason, the pizza shouldn’t stick to the stone, providing you use it correctly, preheating throughly before cooking a pizza at the correct temperature.

However, be aware that a pizza stone does become seasoned with use. This is the discoloration you see over time. ‘This patina becomes more and more non-stick as it develops,’ says the experts at Napoleon. ‘This is a natural process that will happen faster the more you use the pizza stone.’

Do you always have to season a pizza stone?

‘Seasoning a pizza stone really isn’t necessary, as your pizza will not stick to it like a piece of steak might on a cast-iron pan,’ says Derek Gaughan, owner of Pala Pizza. ‘When people discuss seasoned pizza stones, it’s really because after time, it will become darker in color.’

Joonas Jokiniemi, founder of Grill Smoke Love, agrees. ‘You should not need to season a pizza stone,’ he says. ‘The only kind of pizza stone that might require seasoning would be a cast-iron pizza stone, which of course is not made of stone.’

Note that a cast-iron pizza pan definitely is an alternative you could use as an addition to your outdoor grill station. The material needs seasoning, and it will require maintenance so it remains seasoned. Handily, cast-iron pizza pans are available to purchase pre-seasoned with oil. If you opt for one of these instead of a pizza stone, as with the stone, check before buying that it is compatible with a BBQ – we like the Lodge BOLD 14 Inch Seasoned Cast Iron Pizza Pan from Amazon, which can be put onto a grill. 

What oil should I use to season my pizza stone?

You shouldn’t use any oil to season your pizza stone. Simply allow it to discolor through use, when it will become even more non-stick. You should, of course, clean a pizza stone between uses. If necessary, use a wooden or plastic spatula to remove any food debris left behind on the stone, then wipe with a cloth dampened with warm water. Always leave to dry for 24 hours before reusing it. 

The other absolutely crucial process to prepare a pizza stone for use? ‘Always remember to preheat your grill and pizza stone so that they are very hot before you bake your first pizza,’ says Joonas Jokiniemi, founder of Grill Smoke Love. ‘This will ensure a fast cooking time and a crispy pizza just like in a real Italian restaurant.’

If you've recently bought yourself an orchid, or received one as a gift, knowing the main reasons why they die is super useful. After all, you'll want to keep these colorful bloomers looking their best for years to come – and they will, with the right care.

Orchids have a bit of a reputation for being tricky, but looking after them isn't too difficult if you remember some key points. Get these wrong, and your orchid can start looking a little sorry for itself, and in the worst-case scenarios, it will give up completely.

Why is my orchid dying? 4 common reasons – and how to avoid them

They may be some of the very best indoor plants for their showy display, but there are some important factors to bear in mind to keep orchids in top health. 

1. A poor watering routine

The most common cause for orchids dying is to do with how much, or how little, you water them.

'Orchids are amazing plants because their visible roots can indicate how much moisture they need,' says the National Garden Bureau experts. 'If the plant needs more moisture, the roots will look silvery. Severely dehydrated roots look wrinkled and tan.'

A severe lack of water can happen very easily with plants grown on bark, says John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening. 'In their natural conditions, the atmosphere would be very humid, with water constantly dripping onto the foliage and aerial roots (both are capable of absorbing moisture) and very little water evaporating from the surface,' he says. 'Although they don’t need as much moisture as terrestrial plants, they 
suffer just as much in its absence. 

'The important thing is to improve humidity levels around the foliage and roots,' John continues. 'Aerial roots work slightly differently from terrestrial roots, but the simplest thing to do is to plunge 
the whole arrangement into water, leave it for a couple of hours, and then let it drain. Do this at least once a week, possibly twice, for the remainder of the growing season.

'In between times, mist the leaves and roots at least every day, giving them a good covering of moisture,' he adds. It will be beneficial to do this more than once a day if temperatures are high.

For best results, use collected rainwater or boiled water (left to cool down to room temperature) for misting and watering, says the RHS. The chlorine in fresh tap water can harm these plants.

'The goal is plump roots that are green after watering, returning to a silvery-green color as they dry off,' says the National Garden Bureau. However, be cautious not to overwater these houseplants, either. If you spot dark and mushy roots, your plant is overwatered and beginning to rot, they explain – and root rot is one of those houseplant diseases that can be tricky to recover from. Other telltale signs that you're overwatering your orchid include the flowers falling off, and the leaves turning yellow.

2. Too much or too little light

Good lighting is also important to help these plants thrive. A lack of this isn't always fatal, but it will stop your orchid reblooming and can result in poor growth. Too much, on the other hand, can scorch their leaves.

'Orchids love long periods of indirect light,' says the experts at the National Garden Bureau. The best growth activity occurs when the orchid receives 10-16 hours of this.

A good test to see if the location in question is adequately lit for your plant is to hold your hand up and check the shadow, they continue. 'If the shadow is blurred, you’re good to go. If it is more distinct, the light level is too high.'

3. Orchid pests

It's always worth looking out for pests in your indoor garden. There are a few varieties that can affect orchids and wreak havoc.

Red spider mites can be particularly problematic. 'These microscopic insects suck sap from leaves and cause cells to die,' says John. 'If you look at the foliage through a microscope you should be able to see the mites scurrying around.'

John recommends tackling the pests with BugClear Ultra Gun (available on Amazon), a contact and systemic pesticide. 'Additionally, feed your plant with orchid fertilizer to improve its immunity to attack from these pests and boost its vigor.'

Mealy bugs are another common orchid interloper. They are tiny sap-feeding pests, enveloped in protective sticky white ‘wool’, that colonize leaf joints and debilitate growth, says John. 

Again, you can tackle them with a systemic pesticide spray. 'Unfortunately, a single application rarely eradicates it,' he says. 'I urge you, therefore, to spray fortnightly for a month or two to ensure that it disappears [double check the label of your chosen product first, to check this is safe for your plants].'

4. Over-feeding your orchid

Although fertilizing plants, orchids included, can help them grow stronger and healthier and prevent the leaves from drooping, it's important not to overdo it.

'Too much fertilizer is one of the often-overlooked reasons why your orchid houseplant is dying,' says Anthony Selvaganam, a certified horticulturist and Chief Content Editor of Plantials.

'I see this issue mostly with beginner houseplant owners. They think, by applying fertilizer, they're helping the plant. It's true to an extent, but not when you repeat it week after week.'

Orchids are generally considered to be sensitive to high levels of fertilizers, and too much fertilizer can lead to a variety of problems like root burn, salt build-up, and nutrient imbalance, he explains.

You can buy fertilizers that are specifically suited to orchids (available on Amazon), but if you choose to use normal houseplant fertilizers instead, proceed with extra caution. 'Common houseplant fertilizers contain high levels of nutrients, including nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium. When too much fertilizer is applied, the excess nutrients can "burn" the orchid's roots, causing them to become damaged or even killed.'

'Fertilizers also contain salts, which can build up in the soil over time and cause problems for the orchid,' Anthony continues. 'Excess salt can cause the soil to become too dry and lead to nutrient deficiencies, which can stunt the growth of the orchid or even kill it.

'To avoid killing your orchid by overfeeding, it is important to use fertilizers carefully and according to the recommended guidelines provided by the manufacturer. In general, it is best to fertilize orchids at a lower rate and more frequently, rather than applying a large amount of fertilizer all at once. This helps to prevent over-fertilization and allows the orchid to take up the nutrients it needs without causing any harm.'

Can you revive a dying orchid?

If your orchid is looking unhappy, check through the above and take any appropriate action – whether this is watering, moving it somewhere with more or less light, or tackling pests.

Sometimes, it's best to repot your orchid to give it a fresh new start. This is the case for root rot, for instance – as you move it into its new container, carefully remove any damaged roots. Once replanted, keep an eye on your orchid and ensure it gets all the right care it needs – with any luck, it will bounce back to its former glory.

Knowing why houseplants die can stop you from making common mistakes and keep your leafy indoor displays looking as vibrant and beautiful as ever.

If you're like me, it's hard to resist bringing a new houseplant home after a trip to the garden center. I love propagating them, too – there are currently two mini spider plants rooting away in a glass of water on my desk. The more houseplants, the merrier, I say – they do wonders in transforming a space and tending to them is good for the soul. 

However, you may also know the frustration when a new plant baby starts to look unhappy, and then – despite your best efforts – goes beyond the point of no return. It's true, looking after indoor plants requires a bit of trial and error, but knowing the common issues that can kill a plant will certainly improve your chances of success.

Why do houseplants die? Expert advice

Protect your prized indoor garden plants from these common mistakes and keep them thriving for longer.

1. Overwatering your houseplants

'One of the most common reasons houseplants meet an untimely end is actually due to overwatering,' says Jo Lambell, Founder of Beards & Daisies. 

'We know, it’s crazy that the very thing our plants need to thrive on can be the same thing that kills them. But it is very possible, and very common, for plant parents to kill their leafy friends with kindness.'

Erinn Witz, Co-founder of SeedsAndSpades.com, agrees. 'In nature, plants use naturally-occurring air pockets in the soil to absorb oxygen and stretch out their roots in search of moisture and nutrients. Houseplants are already at a disadvantage by growing in a pot rather than the ground, and when we fill up all those soil air pockets by overwatering, that can really stress your plant,' she explains.

'Aside from literally drowning the roots, overly wet soil is also a hotbed for harmful microbe growth, which can cause root rot. Root rot can be really hard to treat, and it’s often fatal.'

So, keep an eye on any signs you might be overwatering your houseplants, Jo says. 'These include limp, droopy leaves; a general wilted appearance; mushy stems, and mold in the soil.'

Drainage is key, too. I had planted a peace lily in a pot without holes and after a while, it started looking very sorry for itself. Not surprising, really: it was basically living in a swamp. I divided it up, discarded the unhealthy parts, and replanted the section that was still holding on for dear life. It's doing okay, just, but I'm not expecting flowers anytime soon.

2. Not watering enough

'You also have to be careful that you don’t tip the scales the other way and end up underwatering your plant,' says Jo. 'It can be a fine balance! 

'Signs of underwatering your plant include dry, crispy leaves; wilting; brown leaves and leaf curling,' she says. 

If you spot any of these signs, then act fast, but carefully. 'Increase your watering schedule gradually and remove any dead leaves – there could still be hope for your dehydrated plant.'

Purchasing self-watering indoor planters is a clever and low-maintenance approach to keeping your plants sufficiently hydrated. Soil moisture meters, available on Amazon, are also useful for telling you when you need to give your plants a drink.

3. A lack of light

'Your plant will also appreciate the right amount of light,' says Jo. 'Every plant is different – some genuinely prefer shadier spots in your home, but others thrive on direct sunlight – so do your research.' For instance, asparagus plants and peace lilies are low-light indoor plants that don't need as much sunshine.

'If your plant has pale green or even yellow leaves which are dropping off, then this is a sure sign it’s not receiving enough light. Try moving it to a sunnier place and watch its gorgeous green color return,' she says.

4. Pest infestations

'Pests can wreak havoc on houseplants and cause them to die,' says Bryan Tan, Founder of GardenersGrail.com. 'To avoid this, check your plants regularly for signs of infestation and treat them with an appropriate pesticide or natural remedy.'

Common intruders to look out for include thrips and spider mites, both of which can cause discoloration of foliage and plant weakness, and in severe cases, death. Taking action quickly can stop the problem from spreading across your entire indoor garden.

5. Incorrect temperatures

'Just like people, plants can be sensitive to extreme temperatures,' says Bryan. 'If the temperature in your home gets too hot or too cold, it can cause your plants to die.'

This is particularly important when caring for houseplants in winter. My avocado plant was definitely not enjoying the drafty window it was sat by, and protested by dropping its leaves. I've had plants struggle when sat next to radiators, too, although a lack of humidity is probably also to blame.

According to a study by the University of Georgia, the optimum temperature range for houseplants is 70-80˚F (21.1-26.6˚C) during the day and 65-70˚F (18.3-21.2˚C) at night. So, if in doubt, aim for this.

How can you revive a dying houseplant?

If you've noticed an unhappy houseplant in your home, check through the points above and see if there are any appropriate actions you can take. This could be, for instance, giving it a drink, moving it somewhere more sunny or less drafty, or treating it for pests. Any dead or unsightly foliage can generally be removed with a clean pair of scissors to improve its appearance.

In some cases, this could be enough to help it bounce back to its former glory. But if, after a while, your plant still hasn't perked up, try giving it a feed with a houseplant food (available on Amazon). You could also consider repotting it: sometimes houseplants get root bound, which means they struggle to take up nutrients and water efficiently. The solution is to move them into new, larger containers with fresh compost.

Unfortunately, sometimes houseplants can't be saved. Don't despair – gardening, whether indoors or out, is always a bit of a learning curve. If you buy a replacement, just be sure to check its specific requirements on the label to ensure you give it the best home possible.

Learning how to propagate string of pearls is easy and will help you create more plants from your existing one. String of pearls, or Senecio Rowleyanus, is a trendy hanging plant that has distinctive, pearl-shaped foliage. It's unique and adds a sculptural touch to your home decor.

One of the best indoor plants thanks to its easy-going nature, the string of pearls is also a good candidate for propagating at home. This is how you do it, with the help of expert-led advice.

How to propagate string of pearls in soil

As with most succulent propagation, the majority of houseplant growers propagate string of pearls from cuttings. 

Vladan Nikolic, a Houseplant Care Expert and founder of the houseplant care blog Mr. Houseplant, explains that 'there are several ways to propagate a string of pearls – stem cuttings in water, stem cuttings in soil, or layering in soil. Layering is the easiest method with the highest chances of success.' 

Here are the steps for layering: 

1. Cut off several 4-6in (10-15cm) long strings from your indoor hanging plant, making sure you choose healthy strings that are growing well. It's best to do this when the plant is in its main growing phase in spring and summer. 
2. Take a new pot and fill it with soil. A succulent potting mix (available from Amazon) is best. 
3. Place the cuttings on top of the soil. Make sure the full length of the cuttings is in contact with the soil. 
4. Use straightened paper clips to pin the cuttings down to the soil. You want them in contact with the soil so the stem nodes can grow roots. 
5. Place in bright indirect light. Making sure there is enough light is important as it will accelerate the process of propagation.  
6. Water lightly once the topsoil has dried out. 
7. Once the cuttings grow roots, reduce watering. Only water when the soil is fully dry, to the bottom of the pot.

To maximize the success of your string of pearls propagation, Vladan advises you can use a heat mat (available from Amazon). This will rise the temperature of the soil by several degrees and will speed up rooting.

Can you propagate string of pearls plants in water?

Yes, it's certainly possible to propagate string of pearls in water. One benefit is that it can be quite a quick process, but on the downside there is more chance of the cuttings rotting in the water. 

1. Using sterilized pruning shears or small houseplant scissors (try Amazon) cut off several 4-6in (10-15cm) long strings. 
2. Remove a few pearls from the bottom of the cutting to expose the leaf nodes. 
3. Place the cuttings in a propagation vessel (a simple glass container is fine) with water, ensuring the lower nodes are submerged. The remaining pearls or leaves need to stay above the water to prevent them rotting. 
4. Place the propagation vessel in bright indirect light.
5. Refill the dish regularly as the bottom nodes must be under water at all times. 
6. Replace the water weekly or more often if it gets dirty. By replacing the water you are removing harmful bacteria that might have multiplied in the meantime and you are providing oxygen.
7. Once the new roots have developed on the cutting and reached around 1in (2.5cm) in length, plant your cuttings in soil. 

Can you propagate a string of pearls plant by seed?

Again, the answer is yes. However, the seed propagation method is the hardest, with poor germination rates. 

Alex Tinsman, a gardener from HowToHouseplant.com, advises that, 'To plant seeds, place them on top of a moist potting mix and cover with a thin layer of sand or perlite. Spray the top layer daily with water to keep it moist until germination occurs.'

Our advice? Propagating this plant from cuttings using one of the above methods is a much easier way to get more free plants and will give better results. 

One of the luxuries of growing gooseberries is that they are prolific, despite requiring little attention. So you benefit from a wealth of delicious fruit with only a small amount of work required. Gooseberry pruning need not be an intimidating task either, and is easy to do by following just a few simple steps.

Gooseberries have a rich history going back to the 16th century and bushes have been a staple of both kitchen gardens and cottage gardens for centuries. An ever-popular soft fruit used for crumble, tarts, jam, fools, and many more. Gooseberries come in a wide range of varieties, with culinary, dessert and dual-purpose cultivars. Dessert gooseberries can be eaten raw, while the culinary varieties are used in the kitchen.

They are very tolerant plants and simple to grow, liking a sunny, sheltered spot with moist, well-drained soil. It is a plant that can even tolerate growing in shade, but you will get a smaller harvest. Plus they are self-fertile, meaning you can get a good crop even if you just have one plant in your kitchen garden. 

So gooseberries are easy to grow, straightforward to prune, simple to maintain, and self-pollinating – that makes them a winner all around in my book. The only negative is their thorns, you will need to prepare for the nasty spikes when you are pruning a gooseberry bush. 

 The benefits of gooseberry pruning

Gooseberries fruit on spurs on old wood, the branches are at their most productive when two or three years old. The stems get less productive the older they become. They will still bear fruit in year four, but with dwindling results, and shouldn’t be left to get to five years old.

The aim of pruning gooseberries is to give your bush the best combination of new growth that will become fruit-bearing in the next year and those branches that are in their most productive years. Removing the oldest wood year-on-year means you are keeping the plant as productive as possible and making every stem count. An ideal bush will have a good mix of one, two, and three-year-old wood.

Regular pruning also helps control the shape, just as it does when pruning shrubs too. It keeps the bush uncongested, untangled and provides the best air circulation – which will help against potential diseases – and allow lots of light to get in and ripen the fruit. 

For a gooseberry bush you are aiming for a goblet shape, with an open center and an even spread of branches that are well-spaced, not rubbing, and not competing with each other for space and light. 

A gooseberry bush left unpruned can easily turn into an unkempt, tangled mess of thorns – something which will be no joy to have to wrestle back into some form of control.

When should I prune a gooseberry bush?

Gooseberry pruning should be done during winter, when the plant is dormant. As well as it being the plant’s period of dormancy, pruning in winter also has the benefit that, as gooseberries are deciduous, the bush drops its leaves in fall. This makes it easier to see the shape and make decisions when it comes to branches to be removed. Winter is also a key time for pruning fruit trees, so make sure you add this to your list of winter garden jobs too. 

Rodger St. Hilaire, founder and editor of Gardening Boost, hails winter pruning as an 'important' tool in helping maintain the 'health and vigor' of gooseberry bushes.

'By pruning in winter, you improve the bush's ability to produce healthy fruits and flowers in the summer months,' he says. 'Pruning helps remove dead or damaged branches, stimulates new growth, and encourages the formation of berries.'

There is also a small amount of basic summer pruning that can be completed on gooseberry bushes in early summer to help ripen the berries. Varying methods do exist for pruning soft fruit, depending on the type of bush it is. Gooseberries are pruned in the same way as redcurrants and whitecurrants, however you do things a little differently when it comes to pruning blackcurrants.

The essential tools you'll need for gooseberry pruning

The good news is you don’t need to be armed with a wheelbarrow chocked full of gardening kit for pruning a gooseberry bush. Just a couple of tools for the pruning, something to collect the prunings in, and some good gardening gloves to protect you from the pesky thorns. A pair like these tough leather gloves from Amazon would be a good choice as the longer length will offer more protection to your arms. 

What you will need:

• Secateurs - a pair of sharp and clean secateurs are vital to make proper cuts
• Gloves - you will be thankful for thick gloves, without holes, to protect your hands
• Loppers - sharp and clean and useful for removing thicker, old wood 
• Trug or bucket - something to collect your prunings in and keep the working area tidy

 How to prune new gooseberry bushes

The Royal Horticultural Society recommends pruning gooseberry plants straight away after planting, advising: 'To ensure good crops of large fruits and to keep plants in good shape, prune right from the start.'

When planting new bushes, firstly trim all branches by one half of their length. In the plant’s first winter, select the best five or six main branches, making sure they are not congested or rubbing with each other. Prune all these selected branches back to 6-8 inches (15-20cm) in length and remove all others.

In years two and three, continue to choose the best-placed leading stems and prune the selected ones by half of their new growth. Carefully examine side shoots that have appeared and also shorten these down to around three buds, removing any that point towards the center of the bush.

 How to prune established gooseberry bushes 

Anne Swithinbank, gardening expert for Amateur Gardening, recommends: 'All gooseberries old and new benefit from regular pruning. Avoid freezing weather, first remove some older wood, aiming to free up the center, create a better shape and encourage new growth.'

There are a few simple rules to follow for pruning gooseberry bushes that are established. Follow these year-on-year and you are on a good track for getting a great crop:

1. Assess the overall shape of the bush and start by pruning out any dead, diseased, or damaged shoots.
2. Check for branches rubbing, and remove as required.
3. Remove any low-lying shoots – is the weight of fruit likely to make the branch lay on the ground? If yes, remove it.
4. Prune out any growth in the center of the bush that is not fitting with the open goblet shape you are aiming for.
5. Completely remove a third of the oldest stems – this will be the least productive wood.
6. Cut back the tips of all leading stems by a quarter-to-half of their new growth.
7. Spur prune all side shoots on the bush, pruning back to one to three buds and cutting to an outward facing bud.
8. Remove all suckers growing at ground level around the bush – these will impair the vigor of the plant. 

Gooseberry prunings continue to be troublesome after they have left the bush, so make life easier by putting them into a container as you cut them. If you don’t, you run the risk of standing on, or getting pricked, by spiky stems around you. 

It is also advisable to get rid of your prunings completely, as they can harbor diseases that you don’t want back in the garden. Putting them into a compost bay can also mean nasty spiky surprises when moving or handling compost down the line.

How do you prune gooseberry bushes in summer?

Summer pruning is not often regarded as an essential task, but it is one that should be recommended if you want lots of big, healthy fruit on the bush.

In early summer, work your way round the bush with your secateurs in hand and shorten any growth that has come on during that season, pruning it back to five leaves. This will allow more sunlight to penetrate the center of the bush, helping to develop and ripen the fruit. 

Fear not, this pruning will not remove berries, as they do not grow on new wood. The process of pruning the tops of all the shoots will promote a lot of energy going into the bottom of the stems, helping any fruit that is growing.

Pruning gooseberries grown as cordons or fans

Like many other other fruit trees and bushes, gooseberries are really effective at being trained in restricted form as cordons or fans. Growing fruit in this way is highly beneficial if you are short of space and they are often seen growing against a fence, wall, or along posts. 

Lucy Chamberlain, Amateur Gardening’s fruit and veg expert, grows trained gooseberries and recommends that when the bushes are dormant it is the ideal time to shape them while pruning out excessive growth. 

'Gooseberries fruit on older wood, plus on short fruiting spurs. This is the same regardless of what shape you are training them in,' says Lucy.

'If you have bushes, remove lower stems that would dangle in the mud, and thin out areas of congestion. Fans and cordons are given the same treatment, but plants are tied in to maintain their shape. Unwanted new growth is pruned back to 1-1.5in (3-4 cm) to form fruiting spurs for next year.”

Pruning trained gooseberries is very simple and you need only secateurs, gloves, and a bucket for your cuttings, just as you do when pruning apple trees that are trained to grow in a similar way. Each winter the objective is to prune all side shoots to one to three buds to encourage fruiting spurs. Then snip the main tip by a third to encourage new side shoots to grow.

Understanding when to replace a trampoline is know-how worth having to keep family members safe when they’re getting active and having fun in the backyard.

The best trampolines are a worthy addition to any yard – and not just for kids to enjoy. For many adults they’re also an appealing way to exercise and spend time in the fresh air. But everyday use and their outdoor situation cause wear and tear, so it’s important to know how to check over your trampoline and how often to do so.

We asked the experts to reveal the signs that mean it’s time to replace your trampoline as well as how to care for a trampoline to maximize its lifespan, and what to look for to ensure any trampoline you buy is made to last.

When should you replace a trampoline?

Whether you choose an above ground or inground trampoline, you often get what you pay for. High-quality models can have a long lifespan, while cheaper ones may have much more limited durability. 

But whatever you spent on a trampoline, it’s important to inspect it regularly so you can spot a component that is starting to fail and reduce the potential for users to injure themselves. ‘We recommend checking over your trampoline once each season (four times a year),’ says Malcolm Phillipps at Jumpflex.

These are the 5 signs it’s time to change your trampoline so you can care for yours and optimize your trampoline safety.

1. Kids have outgrown it

Knowing what trampoline size is best for the age of your kids is key to ensuring their safety. If you started the kids off on a trampoline at a young age by investing in a junior version, the trampoline will need to be changed when they outgrow it. 

‘Junior trampolines are ideal for first-time jumpers, but as your kids grow, they will need a new trampoline to suit their growing bodies,’ explains David Woodman, director of product development and compliance at Plum Play and a member of the British Toy and Hobby Association Safety Committee and the European Committee for Trampoline Safety.

‘It’s important to buy an age-appropriate trampoline for your child to ensure they are safe and comfortable as they bounce. For example, junior trampolines like the Plum Play 4.5ft Interactive Lights Junior Trampoline and Enclosure have low-height frames so little ones can get on and off safely. 

‘Trampolines also have a maximum user weight, so as your child grows, you’ll need to ensure that the trampoline is at a size that will be safe for them.’

2. Enclosure net worn or torn

All above ground trampolines should have an enclosure net, and its vital to ensure its continued integrity. According to Malcolm Phillipps, one of your seasonal checks should be that: ‘The safety net is correctly attached and free from rips or tears.’

What to do if there are problems? ‘Replace it if signs of wear are present,’ says David Woodman.

Bear in mind that one of the elements that can affect the net’s integrity is UV rays. ‘The sun can be very damaging to any outdoor equipment,’ explains Cara Bradney, UK marketing manager at Springfree Trampoline. Look out for a trampoline with UV protection when buying a replacement, including for the net.

3. Springs are damaged or rusty

The state of its springs can be another sign that it’s time to change your trampoline. Check that ‘all springs and their attachment points are undamaged and free from significant rust’, says Malcolm Phillipps.

Owner of a trampoline without springs? Springfree Trampolines have composite rods instead and Cara Bradney recommends, ‘Keep a particular eye on the mat and net rod sleeves, as these protect the composite rods. After many years of being out in the elements they can go brittle and sometimes flake. This is really easy to put right and is covered by our 10-year warranty.’ 

4. Frame is rusted, bent or broken

As well as checking the springs, take a look at the frame for evidence of rust, which can be a giveaway that it’s time to invest in a new trampoline. But this isn’t the only thing that can go wrong with the frame. ‘Ensure the frame is not bent or broken,’ says David Woodman. See a problem like this or rust on the frame? ‘It’s time to get a new trampoline,’ he says.

Check all fasteners are tight, too, advises Malcolm Phillipps.

5. Jumping mat sagging, ripped or holed

The jumping mat is another area of a trampoline that can show signs of wear. ‘The jumping mat should be checked for large holes or sagging and replaced if there is any sign of damage or wear and tear,’ says David Woodman.

Take a look at the pads at the same time checking ‘the safety pads are correctly fitted and the padding is intact’, says Malcolm Phillipps.

How long does a trampoline last?

The length of time a trampoline lasts can vary widely. ‘The lifespan of a trampoline comes down to the quality of the trampoline that you purchase,’ explains Malcolm Phillipps at Jumpflex. ‘Cheaper trampolines tend to last for one to two years only, and can have issues with structural integrity if too many users/too much weight goes onto the trampoline.

‘The best tip we can advise is to look at the warranty period offered on the different parts of the trampoline – if a trampoline brand has a warranty that is only valid for a very short period, it is a possible signal that the trampoline will not last for more than a year or two.’

The same advice applies when shopping for the best climbing frame for your family garden too. 

How do you make a trampoline last for longer?

To make a trampoline last for longer, always check the length of the warranty when you purchase. A long warranty will provide the reassurance that it is made from high quality components. 

Be sure, too, to check your trampoline regularly. ‘We do recommend doing a regular quick five minutes health check, especially as the years roll on,’ says Cara Bradney.

Just as you would with other equipment in your garden play area, it's also worth getting into the habit of cleaning your trampoline regularly, advises Malcolm Phillipps. ‘This keeps the trampoline looking great and free from dirt and debris which can enhance rusting and cause premature damage to trampoline components,’ he explains. Always check the manufacturer’s guidance on cleaning before you begin.

Learning how to prune mint is an essential step in caring for this all-time herb favorite. There are several reasons why pruning is so important if you grow mint in your garden. 

First, as anyone who has tried growing mint will tell you, it can be very difficult to contain. Don't prune it and it will take over everything else in your garden. Second, mint plants are prone to getting leggy if not pruned. If you want a healthy, bushy mint plant that won't suffocate other plants in your yard, follow these simple steps to prune it. 

How to prune mint in 3 easy steps

As edible plant expert from Gardening Mentor Kevin Rodrigues points out, pruning mint not only promotes healthier plant growth but also 'improves the flavor of the mint leaves.' 

Whether you're growing mint in an indoor herb garden or in a container in your kitchen garden, here are Kevin's recommended steps for pruning mint:

1. Begin by removing any dead or damaged leaves or stems from the plant. This will help to prevent the spread of diseases and improve the overall appearance of the plant. 
2. Next, trim back any stems that have become overgrown or unruly. This will help to control the size of the plant and keep it from taking over your garden. 
3. Once you have removed any dead or damaged growth, you can start to prune the plant to shape it and encourage new growth. To do this, make clean cuts just above a leaf or node (the point where a leaf attaches to the stem). This will encourage the plant to produce new growth from the node.

Top tip: 'When pruning the mint plant, be sure to use clean, sharp scissors or pruning shears to make clean cuts. This will help to prevent damaging the plant and promote healthy growth,' adds Kevin.

To make it easier to prune your mint, you might want to consider investing in a pair of small pruning scissors, available on Amazon. 

When is the best time of year to prune mint?

First of all, there is gentle regular trimming and then there's aggressive pruning. Trimming back your mint plant by pinching back the top growth can be done regularly, 'typically once a month during the growing season,' according to Kevin Rodrigues. 'This will help to keep the plant healthy and prevent it from becoming overgrown.'

Full pruning should be done a bit less frequently and never during the mint plant's first year of growth. Katie Krejci, a gardening expert who runs a blog called The Homesteading RD, says that 'it's best to wait to prune your mint plant until its second year, and ideally just before it blooms (you'll notice buds forming). You can aggressively prune mint up to 2-3 times during each growing season. The final pruning should occur in late fall by cutting the mint plant back by half.'

How do I make my mint plant bushy?

Mint can be one of the best herbs to grow, but the key to full, bushy growth is consistent picking or pinching off the growing tips. Katie Krejci explains that each time a growing tip is snipped, it creates two side shoots, resulting in shorter and fuller growth. When you notice your mint plant looking leggy, pinch off the longest bits of growth and watch it fill back in.'

Miguel Palma, a professional gardener and the owner of JardinTienda, advises gardeners to 'make sure to leave at least three inches of stem on the plant so it
can continue growing.'

By pruning mint properly it will grow and taste better, without taking over your garden.

Recognising mold on houseplant soil and knowing how to get rid of it is key to growing healthy indoor plants. As well as looking unsightly this fast appearing soft, light-colored growth is a sure sign that growing conditions are less than ideal. 

Appearing as a soft, white, or gray fuzz, and sometimes developing into a cobwebby mass, it can look alarming, but fortunately it is easy to deal with and with a few simple precautions, it can be kept at bay.

In most cases, the mold developing on indoor plant soil is harmless and poses no real threat to your plant, but it can indicate problems with the plant’s immediate surroundings, which will prevent it from thriving. 

In this feature we not only consult the experts for the likely causes of mold but also share their top tips on how to get rid of it. Armed with this knowledge you can sit back and enjoy watching your healthy indoor plants flourish.

Common causes of mold on houseplant soil

It can be alarming to see a moldy fuzz spreading over the compost beneath prized plants in your indoor garden, but identify the reason behind it and you can successfully resolve the problem. 

Manos Kanellos, plant physiologist at Growth Technology explains in more detail: ‘These “molds” are nearly always soporific fungi, that is they feed on decaying organic material, especially products containing wood fibre, composted bark etc. The spores are endemic in the atmosphere and given the right food source, temperature, humidity, light levels and so on they can quickly flourish. It is worth noting that this is less of a problem in soon to be banned peat mixes. Sadly, the presence of these fungi/molds is a price we will have to pay for going away from peat.’

Find out more about the most common causes below:

1. Overwatering your plant

Overwatering is a common indoor plant mistake that can lead to mold taking hold. ‘Sometimes all it takes to resolve it is letting your plant dry out for a few extra days before watering again,’ says Bloomscape's gardening expert, Lindsay Pangborn. 

‘Some other tips to avoid over watering are using well-draining soil to prevent the roots from getting too moist, using a pot with drainage holes to allow excess water to escape, and avoiding cooler temperatures.’

2. Poor drainage

Permanently wet soil is a breeding ground for bacterial and fungal diseases plus it can lead to root rot setting in, eventually killing off the plant. 

Choosing an indoor planter and potting compost with adequate drainage is hugely important, as Marquis Matson from the Indoor Nursery blog explains. ‘If a pot doesn’t drain, even regular watering can lead to a build-up of excess moisture that leads to a wet, humid environment that not only encourages mold growth, but can damage roots as well.’

3. Poor air circulation

Placing an indoor plant in an unsuitable position can slow down growth or lead to other problems such as mold developing. Even low-maintenance indoor plants will struggle if you don't meet their basic light and air requirements. 

‘To keep your houseplants happy and mold-free, we recommend moving your plants to a light and airy space, as mold doesn’t tend to thrive in dry and bright conditions. This is especially important in winter, as plants can easily end up in dark, stuffy rooms,’ suggests Ben Norman, houseplant expert at Baby Bio. 

‘Bring them out into bigger spaces with lots of air circulation, such as on the kitchen windowsill. A handy hint is to then sprinkle cinnamon across the top layer of soil, as this can work as a natural anti-fungal.’

4. Contaminated soil

If mold appears on the surface of a newly potted or recently repotted plant it is possible that this is caused by using compost that has been harbouring mold or fungal spores. 

Check the remaining bagged compost for any signs and, if found, follow the steps detailed below. Scrap off any mold on the soil around the base of the plant and replace with fresh compost.

5. Dying foliage left on soil

Everything from a rubber plant to an orchid can lose its leaves as a sign of stress, but these leaves that have been shed and are left on the soil beneath can quickly become a breeding ground for mold and fungal spores. 

The easiest way to avoid this happening is to remove and dispose of any fallen foliage and keep the soil's surface free of plant debris.

How do you get rid of mold on houseplant soil? 

Shocked to see mold growing on the surface of your plant’s soil? Don’t worry it’s pretty easy to deal with. Simply scrape off any areas of mold using the side of a trowel or knife and throw away in the trash. Do make sure to wash and sterilize the tool thoroughly afterwards to avoid transferring the bacteria elsewhere.

Add a layer of fresh, sterile indoor potting compost (available from Amazon) and dust with cinnamon or a commercial fungicide to prevent mold from reappearing.

Do you have to throw moldy houseplant soil away? 

You may think that spotting mold in a bag of indoor plant compost calls for drastic action and the hassle and cost of going to buy a replacement, but it really doesn’t. By taking a few simple steps you can safely use the existing soil. 

1. Using a trowel, carefully remove any mold and dispose along with the household trash, making sure to keep it well away from other plants. It’s also an idea to sterilize the trowel afterwards too.
2. Next spread the compost out on newspaper or plastic sheeting and allow it to dry.
3. Before using you may wish to add some perlite or horticultural grit to improve aeration and drainage and reduce the chances of mold reoccurring.

Do you have to get rid of the houseplant if it has moldy soil? 

‘Absolutely not!’ says Ben Norman. ‘In most cases, if you remove the mold, place the plant in a bright and airy space, and keep a watchful eye on the soil for the next few weeks to make sure the mold hasn’t returned, it should be fine. There’s no need to get rid of your beloved houseplant.’

Is mold in plant soil harmful?

Whether mold is a problem on plant soil really depends on its color and type. ‘White mold is harmless. If you see grey mold, that can be bad for your plant’s health,’ says Richard Cheshire, Patch Plants Doctor. ‘Grey mold will have a dusty look and will often be on old parts of your plant, giving them a wrinkly collapsed appearance.’ 

Fortunately, whether you're a fan of bathroom plants, low light indoor plants or even kitchen plants, finding grey mold on houseplants is pretty rare so there is no need to panic. If you do come across it, avoid breathing it in or touching it with your bare hands. Carefully remove the affected areas of the plant and dispose with the household garbage.

Rhubarb is a classic spring and early summer treat and its juicy delicious stems are a common sight in crumbles, cakes and tarts. By studying the old technique of forcing, you can grow rhubarb in a way that offers early and even sweeter stems.

Growing rhubarb itself is very easy and it is a plant that can be harvested for many years. The process of forcing the crown to produce an early harvest of stems is simple and one that I have always found rewarding. 

It requires little tools, can be done on a budget, and is well worth the effort. Those early blanched stems are less fibrous and much more delicate in flavor, certainly less bitter than non-forced rhubarb and requiring less sugar when being cooked.

The vivid bright-pink sticks are also a sight to behold poking out of the ground in the darkness. It can be hard to resist the temptation to keep sticking your head into the pots to check their progress, which can be impressively rapid.

The benefits of forcing rhubarb 

Forcing is a technique that has been used for more than a century to obtain earlier and more tender rhubarb stems. The crown of a dormant rhubarb plant is plunged into darkness and this encourages the production of pale, thin and sweet stalks that are ready for picking very early in the season. Forcing pots are a common sight in a kitchen garden or on allotments through the winter months.

It is the darkness and the warmth that comes from forcing that encourages the plant to grow fast in the search for light. The stalks themselves are paler in color than traditional rhubarb as the lack of sunlight stops the production of chlorophyll. 

The forced stalks can be ready to harvest in early spring, many weeks before any plants left to grow as usual outside. When the plant is forced you must harvest rhubarb carefully by gently twisting and pulling the stem from the crown.

 When to start forcing rhubarb 

Rhubarb is forced in its dormant period in winter and the crown needs exposure to frost before being forced. It is the frost that breaks the plant’s dormancy and stimulates growth. 

It is key to choose a well-established crown that has been growing outside for a minimum of two years to force. The process of forcing rhubarb will exhaust a crown, taking a great deal of energy from the plant, and a younger plant will be severely weakened. It could have its productivity for future years potentially damaged. 

Always remember that any crowns forced should also not be picked in the summer of that same year. It is best to try to plan and differentiate between plants to be forced early and plants to be left for harvesting during the traditional rhubarb season when planning your vegetable planting calendar.

 How to force rhubarb in 8 easy steps

There are different methods of forcing rhubarb, depending on if you want to leave the plant in the ground or move it to a different location to force. 

The simplest, and most commonly seen, method of forcing rhubarb is to cover the crown in situ using a large forcing pot that covers the whole of the crown. Here's how to do it:

1. Choose a healthy well-established crown that was not forced the previous year.
2. Remove any debris and old leaves from the crown.
3. Add a layer of mulch like compost or well-rotted manure to help provide extra nutrients and promote a strong growth of stems.
4. Completely cover the rhubarb crown with a large pot without any holes for light to penetrate.
5. If there are holes, such as those for drainage, cover with thick black tape.
6. Mound fresh compost or manure around the pot – this can increase the heat inside and bring forward the forcing.
7. The stems should be ready to harvest around 7 or 8 weeks later.
8. It’s time to harvest when the pink sticks are 45-50cm long, or touching the top of the pot.

An alternative method of forcing rhubarb involves lifting crowns. This is a traditional method that sees healthy and established crowns lifted and left to sit on the ground for a period of up to 10 days. This exposes them to cold and potentially some frosts. 

The crowns are then planted in compost and placed in a dark and warm environment indoors, such as a shed, garage or cupboard. If you have a greenhouse then place the plant in there and cover to exclude the light. Check the crowns regularly and keep the roots slightly moist.

Bob Flowerdew, fruit and veg expert for Amateur Gardening, advises that crowns can simply be dug and packed in buckets of sand. He does warn that the method of lifting crowns, while simple to look after, does not necessarily allow for plants to be put back outside to grow on for future years. 

'These crowns require no feeding – just careful watering – and afterwards are exhausted, so are best thrown away and then replacements grown,' he adds.

 Types of forcing pots for rhubarb 

Rhubarb forcing pots can come in different materials, however they do need to be large enough to completely cover the crown, deep enough to allow long stems to grow, and not transparent.

Ruth Hayes, gardening editor of Amateur Gardening, says: 'If you are a stickler for tradition, place a terracotta forcing pot over the top of the plant’s emerging crown, making sure no light can get through.

'Alternatively, a large pot or bucket will do, but do make sure they have no holes in the bottom, as light coming through will disrupt the process.'

Other options available to use as rhubarb forcing pots include plastic reproductions of terracotta forcing pots, dustbins, old chimney pots, or there are decorative forcers that can be purchased.

Problems with forcing rhubarb and how to solve them

Damage from pests such as slugs and snails is a common rhubarb growing problem and these pests can munch on leaves and sometimes the stalks of forced rhubarb. There are simple remedies available to make sure the plant is protected from potential pest damage.

Lucy Chamberlain, fruit and veg expert for Amateur Gardening, recommends: 'Before covering up your clump, lay some form of slug control around the crowns, such as organic slug pellets [available from Amazon] or sharp grit.'

She adds that slug control be topped up regularly as you check under the forcer for progress and start to pull individual stems. Crumbled egg shells, beer traps, or biological control methods are also good tactics for how to get rid of slugs and snails.

Forced rhubarb can suffer from botrytis, a fungus that can cause leaf and crown rot. This is caused by high humidity and a lack of proper air circulation – something that can be an issue under a forcing pot. Remove debris, old leaves, and other plant matter from the crown prior to placing the forcing pot over the clump to help combat botrytis.

 Varieties of rhubarb for forcing 

Early-cropping varieties of rhubarb are the most suitable for forcing, however all varieties can be encouraged to produce stems early given the right conditions. Quicker-maturing variety of rhubarb, such as ‘Hawke’s Champagne’ or ‘Grandad’s Favourite’, are ideal for producing the earliest stems.

If you're trying to choose between a pizza oven vs pizza stone, it pays to know the benefits and the downsides of each when it comes to feeding friends and family in the backyard.

Choosing between them means knowing how to go about cooking pizzas using each of these two options, and the features that bring tasty results. It also pays to understand the possible disadvantages with each method so you can make the best selection for your yard.

To help you come to the right decision between using a pizza oven or a pizza stone on a BBQ for dishing up slices of pizza pie to friends and family, we’ve put the two options head to head and these are the results.

The benefits of a pizza oven vs pizza stone

You may not have considered cooking pizza on your barbecue before but, once tried, you might be a fan like Weber head grill master Dan Cooper. ‘I love cooking pizza on a barbecue, it’s definitely a staple for me,’ he says. But how does it compare to adding a pizza oven to the yard in terms of ease of use, results, and the flexibility to prepare other foods outside? This is what you need to know about pizza oven vs pizza stone.

Pros and cons of pizza ovens

Wondering whether pizza ovens are worth it rather than opting for a cheaper pizza stone for your grill? Here's what the experts say. 

Benefits of using a pizza oven 

Pizza ovens are typically easy to use, but you’re likely to find that practice is required. ‘Like most outdoor BBQs/cooking gadgets, there’s a knack to baking the perfect pizza,’ says Dan Hart, founder of Home Pizza Ovens.

However, you should find results come quickly. ‘With each bake, the process becomes easier,’ Dan says. ‘Early efforts will undoubtedly result in under or over-cooked pizzas, created in odd shapes and sizes. Over time, the pizzas will improve as will the joy of baking a delicious, Italian-inspired dish.’

What does make the process of achieving the perfect pizza oven temperature easier is using a pizza oven with a thermometer – which can be found in smaller pizza ovens like the portable Roccbox from Gozney. ‘To make the cooking experience as simple and stress free as possible portable pizza oven Roccbox includes a built-in thermometer,’ says Tom Gozney, founder of Gozney. 

‘Our latest pizza oven, the Gozney Dome, goes one step further in terms of size, versatility and ease of use with a built-in dual-fuel burner system, digital thermometer with two linked temperature probes, an extra wide oven mouth and an accessory port,’ Tom adds.

For a pizza oven without a temperature gauge, our head of reviews, Millie Fender, recommends investing in an infrared thermometer for accurate measurement. This infrared thermometer from Ooni is a favorite with pizza oven fans. 

And the reason a thermometer is highly recommended? Because it’s important to heat a pizza oven to the right temperature first. ‘To cook a traditional Neapolitan pizza you need a minimum oven temperature of over 850˚F (over 450˚C),’ says Tom. ‘Without the required high temperatures, you simply won’t achieve the right bake – your crust won’t rise properly, and you won’t end up with that signature leopard spotted crust we all know and love.’

A good pizza also needs attention, advises Dan Hart. ‘The pizza must be turned 90 degrees every 15 to 20 seconds using a small headed turning peel.’

As well as being able to produce sufficient heat, a pizza oven also has the benefit of distributing heat for optimum results. ‘Heat must come from the floor as well as above,’ explains Dan.

Tom Gozney agrees this is essential. ‘The beauty of pizza ovens like our Gozney Dome is that thanks to their shape, build materials and thick layers of insulation, they provide a full 360º heat hold meaning your pizza will cook evenly and you won’t be left with a burnt base and uncooked toppings,’ he explains.

Dan Hart identifies a further possible taste advantage. ‘When using a wood-fired pizza oven, the smoky taste is hard to beat – this applies to pizzas and other food you can cook in a pizza oven,’ he says.

A further plus point for pizza ovens in the pizza oven vs pizza stone head to head is their speed. Although there are exceptions, typically, most types of pizza ovens are super quick to cook pizzas once preheated. ‘With one of our pizza ovens you can cook a traditional Neapolitan pizza in just 60 to 90 seconds meaning you can quickly churn out enough pizzas for the whole family to enjoy and you won’t be stuck manning the BBQ the whole evening,’ says Tom Gozney.

An additional upside to pizza ovens that you might not expect is that they‘re great for cooking a whole lot more foods than pizza. Which ones? ‘Bread, spatchcock chicken, côte de boeuf, ribs, fish, veggie dishes – everything and more that you can cook on a BBQ,’ says Dan Hart. ‘And the wood-infused taste is amazing – lamb cutlets with garlic, oregano, thyme, lemon zest and olive oil is our favorite – the aroma recreates those fantastic holiday dishes enjoyed in Greece.’

And Tom Gozney suggests, ‘If you simply pop in a skillet pan in either Roccbox or Dome you can cook meat, eggs, roast potatoes, shakshuka, veggies, baked camembert and even desserts or you can explore baking bread in a pizza oven by cooking a flatbread, tear and share or sourdough. If you are using charcoal or wood you can also experiment with low and slow pizza oven recipes just like you would with a BBQ,’ he adds.

Drawbacks of pizza ovens

While pizza ovens are champions on many counts, there are a couple of aspects you might consider to be disadvantages, however. The first is cost. A pizza oven is an additional investment buy for your yard, so factor in purchase price for your preferred model when deciding.

It might also be a downside that, as most of us don’t want to go without a grill, you’ll have two cooking appliances in your yard. For most people that likely won’t matter, but it could if your BBQ area is small and you don't have space for things like a pizza oven table. 

Shop pizza ovens:

Pros and cons of pizza stones

If you love the idea of pizza cooked outside, using a pizza stone on a grill is a simple way to prepare some slices once you’re set up. 

Benefits of using a pizza stone 

‘First, make sure you have the right tools for the job,’ says Weber’s Dan Cooper. ‘At Weber we have a range of pizza stones that have been specifically designed to create perfectly crispy and tasty pizzas.’ Check the manufacturer’s recommendations for other grill brands.

Bear in mind that gas BBQs have the advantage when using a pizza stone. ‘Using a pizza stone on a gas grill is very easy because you can keep the grill at a constant high temperature without problems,’ explains Joonas Jokiniemi, founder of Grill Smoke Love. ‘If you are using a pizza stone on a charcoal grill, it gets a bit more tricky since you have to maintain a steady high temperature the whole time you are baking pizzas.’

As with cooking in a pizza oven, temperature is crucial. ‘Ensure the BBQ is kept at the correct temperature, which is between 450 and 475˚C (230 and 245˚C),’ says Dan. ‘If you’re using a charcoal barbecue, make sure the charcoal is spread evenly underneath your pizza stone.'

On the list of plus points, though, is the fact that you can prepare other foods using a pizza stone. ‘You can cook quesadillas or flatbread (eg pita bread) on a pizza stone,’ suggests Joonas.

Think meat, too. ‘You could use a pizza stone on a BBQ to sear steaks and chops,’ says Dan Hart. ‘You’ll need to get the stone super hot though, most likely leaving it to heat for at least 30 minutes prior to using.’ And, of course, the barbecue itself can be used for cooking a whole host of favorite meats, fish, and veggies.

Another benefit of using a pizza stone is that – compared to buying a pizza oven – it involves very little outlay if you have already invested in one of the best BBQs. There’s another pro, too. ‘The key advantage is having one cooking source in the garden as opposed to having a pizza oven as well,’ says Dan Hart.

‘Most homeowners already own a barbecue, so purchasing a cheap pizza stone is a great way to get into making homemade pizza without purchasing another large outdoor cooking appliance,’ agrees Derek Gaughan, owner of Pala Pizza. ‘With that said, if pizza making becomes a hobby for you, an outdoor pizza oven definitely will outperform a pizza stone on a barbecue.’

Downsides of using a pizza stone

In order to cook on a pizza stone, preheating it is vital, and it can take longer to get a pizza stone up to temperature than it does a pizza oven. ‘Preheat the pizza stone over direct heat for 30 minutes,’ recommends Dan Cooper. ‘This is very important as, if the stone isn’t preheated properly, the pizza dough can get stuck to it, and the crust won’t get crispy.’

As for how long it takes to cook with a pizza stone, it does need extra minutes compared to a pizza oven. ‘I try to aim for around seven to 10 minutes of grilling time when using a pizza stone,’ says Dan.

As you’ll have noted, this is longer than with a typical pizza oven, making it a downside of this cooking method, as Dan Hart of Home Pizza Ovens points out. ‘Pizzas will take longer to bake,’ he says. And another con is that cooking is trickier, he notes. ‘The direct heat source below the stone is harder to control.’ 

Be mindful too that heat is lost when opening the grill. ‘When it comes time to launch a pizza onto the stone, you want to be as fast as possible and quickly close the lid afterwards,’ advises Derek. ‘That way, the top of the pizza will cook at the same speed as the bottom – which will be in direct contact with the hot pizza stone.’

Shop pizza stones:

Pizza oven vs pizza stone: which is better?

When you’re considering pizza oven vs pizza stone, it’s important to think about your budget, how often you plan to make pizza outside, as well as consider the setup you prefer for cooking in the yard.

Both are easy ways to make pizza, although you will need a little experience to get the best out of either method. If you’re a pizza aficionado, a pizza oven has the edge because of the high heat it can deliver and the heat distribution. You can also feed a crowd at your pizza party with ease because of the speed of cooking. But if you’re only going to cook pizza in the backyard occasionally and especially if you already own a barbecue, a pizza stone is a budget way to elevate your outdoor kitchen and take pizza cooking outside.

Seduced by their charm but unsure how long orchid blooms last? Well, with the correct care and climate these tropical gems can last much longer than you may first think. 

Prized by interiors designers and hugely popular as gifts, you may be forgiven for thinking these exotic looking plants may only last for a week or so before dropping their magnificent flowers. The good news, however, is that with the right orchid care and the right conditions, these waxy blooms can last for much longer and thrive happily in our homes.

With over 28,000 species, orchids are one of the largest flowering families so there are plenty of tempting flower types to choose from. These include the chic and instantly recognisable phalaenopsis, vibrant dendrobium and oncidium with its mass of tiny star-like flowers. Follow a few simple tips, as detailed below, and they will happily perform for months on end. 

How long do orchids blooms last?

Regarded as one of the most desirable and exquisite indoor plants, orchids can bloom for a surprisingly lengthy amount of time.

‘This can vary greatly considering the type of orchids and the conditions in which they are kept – for example some cattleyas may only flower for one week or so, whereas some phalaenopsis can flower for several months,’ say the experts at McBean’s Orchids. 

Manos Kanellos, the author of Growing Orchids at Home: a beginner’s guide (available at Amazon), agrees: ‘For phalaenopsis, flowers can last 4-6 months. For cymbidiums, 2-3 months and for cambria orchids 4-6 weeks. In general, the cooler the room temperature, the longer the flowers will last.’

What can you do to make orchid blooms last longer?

Although not the most demanding of plants in an indoor garden, there are a few factors to consider when it comes to keeping indoor orchids happy, healthy and blooming for longer. We asked Bloomscape's gardening expert, Lindsay Pangborn for her tips.

• Keeping your orchid in ideal conditions for it to grow will allow your blooms to last longer. Orchids prefer bright, indirect sunlight such as light from an eastern facing window. A lack of sunlight is one of the main reasons you might struggle to get an orchid to rebloom too.
• Water your orchid when 75% of the potting media volume is dry. Make sure to water it thoroughly, until you see water dripping out of the drainage hole. Your orchid will also appreciate added humidity from a people tray or humidifier. Incorrect watering can cause be a reason for your orchid leaves drooping too. 
• In the spring and summer months, make sure to feed your orchid with a foliar fertilizer every time you water it, and feed once a month during the winter and fall. 

How long do you have to wait for an orchid to bloom again? 

As orchids are usually sold or gifted when they are in flower it can seem odd to see these plants without their chic and showy blooms. You can even be forgiven for thinking that they have reached the end of their purpose or that they will need expert care and attention to coax them to reflower, but thankfully this is not so. 

‘Reblooming varies between orchids,’ say the experts at renown UK specialists McBean’s Orchids. ‘We specialise in oncidium, which can flower in both spring and mid-winter, and cymbidium, which flower once from late fall into spring. Phalaenopsis, however, vary, and if you cut your spent flower spike at the second node up, you may find another spike growing in one month, or in several.’

Houseplant expert Ben Norman at Baby Bio says, ‘the key is to be patient! Once your orchid flowers have fallen off, the stems can be bare for a long time after, which can lead many to believe that the plant has died, but that’s not the case. After flowering, orchids often enter a dormant period that can last for up to 4 to 6 months. Keep maintaining your care routine and it will flower again.’

Do you need to water an orchid when it's blooming?

‘Yes, it is important to keep your orchid hydrated when it’s blooming,’ continues Lindsay Pangborn. ‘If your orchid’s pot has completely dried out, make sure to give it a good soak to allow it to rehydrate. However, make sure your orchid is not sitting in water, because this could cause orchid root rot. 

'Usually, the roots should be firm and greenish, but if they are rotting they may be mushy and discolored. Make sure to keep the moss damp at all times, but never soggy and always make sure to dump out extra water that accumulates after watering.’ 

Manos Kanellos cautions to water as normal during flowering, adding, ‘If the orchid gets too dry, the flowers may wither and as they lack stomata they will not come back.’

Euonymus are deciduous or evergreen shrubs that can be tricky to recognize until fall when you can see the fruits, which are colorful and very distinctive.

Carried in clusters of up to seven, the small fruits are about 0.5-0.75in (1-1.5cm) across, and come in two parts – a small red or orange berry surrounded by three or four fleshy scales in magenta, red, pink, orange, or white. The resulting colors can be very striking, like a cloud of sparkling jewels, and often persist into winter. However, evergreen varieties can not only be shy to fruit but the fruits may be hidden amongst the foliage. 

The flowers that open in early summer and develop into fruits are less impressive – small and greenish or yellow in color.

Their foliage is also an important feature. The leaves of some deciduous varieties turn vivid red in fall – and can be so bright that they’ve earned the common name of burning bush. The evergreen shrubs have small or medium-sized leaves that are often brightly variegated.

'Their value in the garden dwells in the beauty of their fruits, in the autumnal colors of the foliage of some species, and in the rich evergreen foliage of others,' says the international experts at Trees and Shrubs Online.

Euonymus key facts:

• Plant type: Deciduous or evergreen shrubs
• Mature size: 2-6ft (30cm-1.8m)
• Soil type: Any fertile soil that is not parched or waterlogged
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, alkaline
• Time to plant: Spring, fall
• Flowering/fruiting time: Early summer/fall
• Flower color: Greenish yellow
• Berry color: Red, purple, orange
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5-6)
• Scientific name: Euonymus
• Common name: Wintercreeper, burning bush

Types of euonymus

These shrubs can be divided into deciduous and evergreen varieties.

Deciduous euonymus

Sometimes known as burning bush, Euonymus alatus is the only widely grown deciduous species but is considered invasive in many areas. The strawberry bush, Euonymus americanus, is an American native alternative. 

In the UK, Euonymus alatus and the native Euonymus europaeus, the spindle, are commonly grown.

The colorful fruits show up far better on deciduous varieties, as they are not usually hidden by the leaves.

Evergreen euonymus

Evergreen euonymus are either small or medium-sized shrubs with glossy dark green leaves (Euonymus fortunei), or taller, more vigorous, larger-leaved, green-leaved shrubs (Euonymus japonicus). The foliage of many is splashed or edged in white, cream, yellow or gold.

How to use euonymus in your backyard

Euonymus is effective as an edger along paths or sidewalks; as a slope cover where it can also provide erosion control; or as a foundation planting, say the experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden.

Popular uses include the following:

• Shrubs: For an impressive specimen shrub, choose one of the larger evergreens such as Euonymus japonicus ‘Chollipo’ with golden edges to the leaves or the heavily fruiting deciduous spindle, Euonymus europaeus ‘Red Cascade’.
• Ground cover: The creeping forms of wintercreeper, Euonymus fortunei, are ideal ground cover, even growing well in poor soil and dry shade. Look for ‘Dart’s Blanket’ (glossy green) and ‘Silver Queen’ (white-edged green).
• Foundation planting: Blending in well with other foundation plantings, euonymus will tolerate sun or shade. Choose variegated varieties of Euonymus japonicus, such as ‘Gold Spot’ (UK: ‘Aureovariegatus’) or the shorter Euonymus fortunei such as ‘Emerald Gaiety’.
• Hedging: Upright varieties are most suitable for hedging and these include ‘Green Spire’ (very dense growth) and the tough and resilient ‘Manhattan’ (dark green).
• Vines: Some varieties of Euonymus fortunei cling to tree trunks or fences in the same way as ivy. Look for ‘Emerald ‘n’ Gold’, shown below, and ‘Kewensis’ (small, neat leaves).

How to plant euonymus

Euonymus are not picky about their site and situation. Sun or shade, rich soil or poor, euonymus will usually do well. However, in poor conditions in particular it pays to prepare thoroughly. Soak the plants before planting (adding fertilizer to the water is always a big help) and then irrigate until the plants are well established. Foundation plantings may need a water-efficient soaker hose system as these are often dry situations.

Mulch after planting to help retain moisture and to suppress weed growth. It pays to prune those grown for hedging or as larger specimens after planting to help promote growth that is dense and bushy.

Euonymus are happier than most shrubs in coastal conditions, where they can tolerate the salt in the air, and also grow well in soils that are limey.

How to care for euonymus

No special care is needed to keep euonymus growing well, as they are low-maintenance shrubs. Simply feed annually with a shrub fertilizer (available on Amazon), and renew the mulch every year or two.

Look out for plain green shoots on colored-leaved varieties and trim them off completely. If these more vigorous green shoots are left untouched, they tend to take over the whole plant and the colored foliage will be steadily replaced by green.

Plants grown as hedges can be cut back in spring, and again in late summer if necessary. Snipping back carefully with pruners usually leaves a more attractive finish than using a hedge trimmer, but takes longer. In fact, any euonymus needing re-shaping or encouragement to develop more bushy growth can be pruned in spring.

How to make more euonymus

Evergreen euonymus grown as ground cover may root into the mulch. This can be encouraged by weighing down ground-hugging branches with stones and then snipping them off for replanting when roots have developed.

Evergreen euonymus can also be rooted easily from plant cuttings:

1. In late spring or early summer, snip off shoots that are about 4-6in (10-15cm) long. Recut just below the lowest leaf, then nip off the leaves on the bottom half of the cutting.
2. Fill a clean, 5-6in (12.5-25cm) pot with moist fresh seed starting mix (available on Amazon), tap it on the table to settle it, then push the cuttings into the soil so that the lowest leaf is just above the soil. Fill the pot with cuttings about 2in (5cm) apart, then water. 
3. Stand the pot in an open-topped plastic bag in a light place in a screened porch, sunroom or greenhouse out of direct sun.
4. In a few weeks, you should see roots emerging from the drainage holes in the base of the pot – a sign that your individual rooted cuttings are ready to be moved into pots of their own.

Solving problems with euonymus

Scale insects attack evergreen types – small yellowish or whitish spots appear on the upper surfaces of the leaves and can weaken the plant – sometimes severely. Plants growing poorly because of drought or lack of nutrients are most likely to suffer, so prepare well for planting and make sure the plants are not short of water or nutrients.

Initial infestations can be removed by rubbing with an old toothbrush, but other treatments may be necessary in severe cases. Consult your local extension service for up-to-date advice.

Larger-leaved evergreens, varieties of Euonymus japonicus, may suffer from mildew, especially in dry seasons. It is the problem seen most often and most Euonymus japonicus in most gardens will be infected at one time or another. Effective treatments are available – again, consult your local extension service.

In spring, larger-leaved evergreens are often attacked by caterpillars. Attracting birds to your yard will help deal with them.

Are there native varieties of euonymus?

In the US, the strawberry bush (Euonymus americanus) is native in the east from New York to Florida, and the Western spindletree (Euonymus occidentalis) is native in the west, from British Columbia south to California. Both are good alternatives to the often invasive burning bush (Euonymus alatus).

In the UK, the spindle bush (Euonymus europaeus) is native mainly on limey soils in the south. In autumn, its leaves develop ruby and fiery coloring with clusters of pink and orange fruits at the same time.

Are euonymus invasive?

The burning bush, Euonymus alatus, originally from Asia, has been widely planted for the vivid coloring of its fall foliage, its crop of red fruits and its robust, frost-hardy growth. However, birds eat the fruits and spread the seeds and it quickly escaped from private yards, municipal plantings and public gardens and became established in a wide range of natural habitats.

It can now be found over most of the northeast and spreading into the Midwest and as far south as Tennessee in woods, on waste ground, in wild suburban corners, along interstate highways, in fields – including in coastal areas – and other habitats where its dense growth smothers native plants.

Burning bush has been cited as an invasive plant in over twenty states and planting it has been outlawed in some states owing to its invasiveness – so do proceed with caution if considering it for your backyard.

Wintercreeper (Euonymus fortunei) is also seen to be invasive in some eastern states.

How to buy euonymus

In retail nurseries and garden centers, euonymus are sold in small pots for hedging or for window box ideas. They can also sometimes be bought as specimen plants ready to make an impact in large containers. Those in medium-sized pots are ideal for foundation planting or ground cover. 

The same applies to mail-order sources, although the larger sizes may be unavailable or uneconomic owing to shipping costs. Collections of small plants or large plugs for hedging or ground cover are sometimes available and are usually competitively priced.

Where to buy euonymus

Our quicklinks will help you find a euonymus for your backyard:

Shop euonymus in the US:

• Shop euonymus at Amazon
• Shop euonymus at Nature Hills
• Shop euonymus at Fast Growing Trees

Shop euonymus in the UK:

• Shop euonymus at Amazon
• Shop euonymus at Crocus
• Shop euonymus at Thompson & Morgan

If you're wondering how to grow pomegranates from seed, you'll be pleased to know it's really straightforward as well as being a great way to produce your own healthy, tasty fruit. Once you get the hang of it you'll be wondering why you've never grown pomegranate seeds before.

With their delicious sweet-sharp juice and dark red jewel-like seeds, exotic pomegranate trees are easy to care for and produce a bountiful harvest of fruit. Although associated with warm climates, pomegranates are surprisingly hardy, tolerating temperatures down to 5˚F (-15˚C) when grown in a sheltered position. 

So if you're looking for a fun way to grow your own and interested in the best fruit trees to choose, it can be worth giving pomegranates a go. 

Expert tips on how to grow pomegranates from seed

Next time you tuck into a delicious pomegranate fruit why not keep the seeds? Then you can add them to your kitchen garden for an easy and economical way to grow your own tasty fruit. 

Follow this simple step-by-step guide. 

1. Get the pomegranate seeds out of the fruit

The first step is to choose a plump and healthy looking pomegranate and get the seeds out of the fruit. 'This can be tricky,' says Zeeshan Haider, CEO and founder of GreenryEnthusiast.com. 'While you may be tempted to cut open the pomegranate and simply take the seeds out, this is not the best option. Instead, you should use a spoon or other kitchen tool to gently separate the seeds from the pulp.'

First roll the pomegranate to loosen the seeds. Score around the middle and tear it open into halves. Take care not to cut into the seeds. Hold each half over a bowl, seeds facing down and tap the skin with a wooden spoon, squeezing a little to release the seeds.

Or try this hack. Score four lines from top to bottom to quarter the pomegranate. Submerge it into a bowl of water and and pull apart the quarters, scooping the seeds out with your fingers. The pith will float and the seeds will sink. Remove the pith and discard, then drain the seeds.

2. Prep the pomegranate seeds

Once you have separated the seeds rinse them in cold water. You can skip this step if you used the bowl method. This will help to remove any remaining bits of pulp and make sure that the seeds are squeaky clean. Be sure to remove all the pulp or fungus might grow on your seeds.

You will be left with small white seeds once the rosy flesh that surrounds them has been removed. Once rinsed, spread the pomegranate seeds on a baking sheet covered with a layer of paper towels and leave them to dry. This step is important, as it gives the seeds time to create a protective coating. Place the baking sheet in a cool, dry area and allow the seeds to dry for several days, or until they are completely dry.

Once the seeds are dry, they're ready to be planted. Select only plump and healthy looking seeds.

3. Plant the pomegranate seeds

For best results, start pomegranate seeds indoors in midwinter, so they have a couple of months headstart before spring planting season. You'll need some pots or starter cells, compost such as a lightweight, seed-starting potting soil, and your pomegranate seeds. 

Pour some soil into each pot or starter cell and spread it evenly. Plant seeds on top of the soil. Make sure that you bury them about one-third of an inch deep, then cover with a light layer of soil. Make sure the seeds are moist but not wet and place in a warm, sunny location. You can add plastic bags to create a DIY mini greenhouse effect too. Make sure you water your seeds regularly.

4. Transfer the seedlings outdoors

Seeds take between 1-6 weeks to germinate, depending on the growing conditions. When the pomegranate seeds start to sprout, thin out any of the less vigorous seedlings then start to think about transferring the plants outdoors. Do this in stages to progressively harden off plants as the weather warms up. 

You can either plant your pomegranates seedlings in the ground, or if you prefer growing fruit in pots you can plant them in a container and grow them on your patio. 

What is the wet towel method for propagating pomegranate seeds?

There is another way to propagate pomegranate seeds that is known as the wet towel method. Horticulturalist Brody Hall of The Indoor Nursery explains how to use this alternative method.

1. Use a spray bottle or mister to soak a clean paper towel with water.
2. Wrap the pomegranate seeds in the damp paper towel and place the seeds in a ziplock bag. Blow a little air into it then seal the bag.
3. Store the bag of seeds in a warm, dark place, such as a kitchen cupboard, for 5-7 days.
4. Check the seeds daily. If the paper towel starts to dry, re-moisten it with water.
5. When the seeds have sprouted (around 7-10 days), prepare several pots of potting soil. Use a pencil to make planting holes and gently place the sprouted seeds into the soil.
6. Cover the seeds with a thin layer of soil and lightly water them in.
7. Place the pot in a sunny, warm spot and water regularly. The soil should remain damp but not soggy.
8. After about two weeks you should have seedlings about an inch tall that can be moved outside or to bigger pots.

How long does it take to get fruit from a pomegranate seedling?

This depends on your climate and the planting position, as well as how big the plants are when they go in to the ground. Don't forget that pomegranates are one of the best fruit trees to grow in pots too, so you may prefer to plant them in containers. 

Generally pomegranate trees will produce a reliable harvest two to three years after planting if their growth has been hearty, but trees don’t start to fruit heavily until after five years or so. They also need a long, hot, dry summer for the fruit to ripen, so make sure you plant them in a spot where they will get plenty of sun. 

Morning glory (or moonflower) is a stunning summer-flowering vine that clambers up fences and supports and quickly bursts forth with weeks of exotic color. It is ideal for sunny spots, opening in a continuing succession of large trumpet-shaped flowers from early summer until the first frosts. What is intriguing about these blooms is that they open for only part of the day. They either unfurl in the morning and close up later, or open in the evening for a few hours into the night.

These plants are mainly grown as annuals. They rise, bloom, seed and die all in a single season. However, in tropical climates, some may survive two or three years, and sometimes more. The flowers come in a wide range of colors, although not orange or yellow. Sometimes, two or three colors are splashed together in one flower, or the flowers have two or three zones in different colors. A few varieties have veins or stripes in their petals, while other blooms present as a single shade. When you grow morning glory, you will be fortunate enough to see lots of wildlife fluttering around your flowers, including hummingbirds and butterflies.

Morning glories make excellent climbing plants as long as there is plenty of sunshine. They are also perfect for patios and pergolas, for growing against fences, and for cottage garden designs where tall frames can be erected. They support themselves by twining around supports and will utilize anything their stems encounter, from a chain link mesh to a wooden trellis, plus mature shrubs and even the bare lower stems of an old vining rose. Here we show you how to cultivate your own charming, colorful climbing trumpets.

Morning glory: key facts

• Plant type: Hardy/half-hardy annuals and perennials
• Mature size: 12in-8ft (30cm-2.4m)
• Soil type: Any good soil, not parched/waterlogged
• Soil PH: Slightly acid, neutral, slightly alkaline
• Time of year to plant: Spring
• Flowering time: Summer and early fall
• Flower color: Purple, blue, white, pink, mixed
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z6-10 (RHS H1c)
• Scientific name: Ipomoea
• Common name: Morning glory, moonflower

How to choose a morning glory

For the best morning glory plants, pick a named variety from a trusted supplier. Some of the most popular shades are purple, blue and deep pink. Amongst the most dramatic violet varieties are ‘Grandpa Otts’ and Mexican Morning Glory. Meanwhile, for lovers of hot pinks, there is ‘Crimson Rambler’ and ‘Scarlett O’Hara’. 

‘Heavenly Blue’, with its white-throated sky-blue coloring, is a beautiful choice for azure petals. And for those after bold Japanese garden ideas, there are some even more unusual options. These include one called ‘Chocolate’ with flowers that are (yes) the color of milk chocolate!

Morning glories and moonflowers fall into two groups. There is a group of annuals, and a group that behave as perennials in tropical climates (USDA Z10) and annuals in colder areas – although the boundaries are blurred. Here’s how to best choose which is most suitable for your needs:

• Annual vines: These are raised from seed each spring. Ipomoea tricolor has flowers in tones of pale blue to deep purple, opening each morning. The common morning glory (I. purpurea) is tougher and comes in a wider range of colors, including blues, purples, pinks and white.
• Perennial vines: In tropical zones, two species behave as short-lived perennial vines. Moonflower (I. alba) is a perennial in the south, and is treated as an annual raised from seed-starter kits in colder zones. Its white flowers open in the evening. Meanwhile, Japanese varieties (I. nil) have flowers that open in the morning.

Where and when to plant morning glory

In all but the warmest zones, most morning glories and moonflowers need the protection of a sunroom, greenhouse or starter kit. This is certainly important for starting off your plants from seed, as it ensures effective germination and helps more seeds to sprout. Seeds of common varieties can be sown outside in late spring in zones 7-8. 

Choose a sheltered spot, ideally near a sturdy garden fence or other climbing plant support like a pergola, teepee or obelisk. A well-screened patio or deck will also work well. This is particularly effective for the fragrant moonflower (I. alba) types that open later in the day, adding something special to summer evenings on the deck. 

Wherever you choose to grow morning glory, make sure you pick a site that gets plenty of sun. Lack of warmth and sunshine are the main reasons for a morning glory not blooming. They can handle periodic bursts of light shade, but you are going to get the healthiest, most spectacular flowers if your plants grow in full sunshine. 

Also, because these plants are keen, adventurous and fast growing climbing plants, pick a spot that will allow for a lot of extra growth.

How to plant morning glory by seed

Once you have decided on a good spot for your plants, knowing how to grow morning glory is the same whether you grow annual or perennial vines. Sowing undercover using a seed-starting kit in a warm, sunny room or greenhouse is a straightforward process. These tips will ensure you have the best chance of success: 

• Sow two seeds per module or small 3in (8cm) pot. Make sure you check the detailed guidance on the seed packet.
• Ensure that seedlings don’t dry out and keep them at 70˚F (21˚C). Shoots should emerge in a week or two.
• Place somewhere with a temperature of 60-70˚F (15-21˚C) and a thin cane support. Ensure shoots have adequate space to grow. Harden off if you intend to transplant outside.
• Plant outside when the risk of spring frost has passed. Frost can kill young plants, although common varieties are less sensitive to this.
• Young morning glories respond well to good soil and regular feeding, so add a little garden compost to the planting area. However, these plants like drier conditions once established and growing well.
• Make sure you plant them close to their intended support. The stems will usually find their way to it by themselves, but may need a little guidance.

For those looking for inventive container gardening ideas, you can also keep morning glories in pots and baskets. According to Christopher Lloyd, one of the most influential English gardeners, ‘Heavenly Blue’ is excellent grown in 5-6in (12-15cm) pots. As he pointed out, the root restriction suits it, making it convenient for training on a trellis against a building.

How to care for morning glory

Looking after your morning glory shouldn’t be tricky. These plants don’t require much attention once planted out. In terms of looking after plants that have been planted out, just be sure to protect plants from frost using fleece or another light covering. Some gardeners protect small plants using large drinks bottles with the bases cut off. 

As your plants start to grow, make sure they are never short of water. If your glories are in poor soils or in containers, add a little tomato food every two weeks. And once they start to climb in earnest, you may need to guide the twining stems to your supports of choice. Once they start to grip, they will romp away.

The final act of morning glory care involves support. As your morning glories grow and spread, you’ll need to keep checking the stability of any frame you might be using to support them. Adjust the ties and fastenings as necessary to keep things secure as your plants develop and make sure they are well propped up for flowering. 

How to make more morning glory plants

If you want to make more morning glories and moonflowers, the best way is to do it from seeds. These plants are generally grown as annuals, with a few exceptions, so look to grow fresh every year. The simplest approach is to buy a packet or two of morning glory on an annual basis. Don’t be afraid to try a new color as well as an old favorite.

It is also possible to grow flowers from seeds gathered from existing plants. You can collect the seeds once the dead flowers are ready to fall. Keep an eye out for small round pods at the ends of stems. Once the pods are hard and brown, crack them open to retrieve the seed. Seeds will often drop from plants and sprout in late spring or early summer the following year. They will then twine up through the same host as the previous year.

Morning glory problems and how to solve them

Morning glories and moonflowers are troubled by relatively few problems. You might find that the shoot tips sometimes turn pale yellow, but this is usually the result of a few chilly nights, and plants soon grow out of it. These plants also dislike drying winds, so if this is likely to be an issue then make sure you plant them in a more sheltered spot.

Deer may eat them, but usually while foraging on a plant through which the morning glory is twining. The only other problem of note is that of aphid infestations. Clusters of aphids are sometimes seen on the young shoots. If you are looking to get rid of aphids, they can be washed off with a spray of water from the hose. That said, you might find that a mist of soapy water is more effective as a long-term solution. If the problem becomes more severe, use an organic insecticide. 

Is my morning glory a different plant?

Morning glories are related to twining plants called convolvulus (or bindweed plants). These have similar-shaped trumpet flowers. Field bindweed (Convolvulus arvensis) can smother surrounding plants. But then there are convolvulus like C. sabatius (blue rock bindweed, above) which are more well-behaved and fine to grow in a pot or basket. 

You may also spot a morning glory look-alike with white trumpet-shaped flowers and heart-shaped leaves. This aggressive perennial might look similar, but is classified as calystegia. Hedge bindweed (Calystegia sepium) is a rampant plant with deep roots, and hard to remove. 

There are other plants which can look similar in bloom. The sweet potato plant (Ipomoea batatas) is closely related to morning glory vines. Recent years have seen the introduction of ornamental forms of sweet potatoes for the garden. Some varieties of sweet potato can be grown in containers for their colorful foliage. 

Is firecracker vine a morning glory?

The firecracker vine is described as a morning glory, though it looks different. In recent years, experts who specialize in classifying and naming plants have been revisiting the firecracker vine, aka the Spanish flag vine. Its scientific name used to be Mina lobata, but close examination of the plant has revealed that, although it looks very different, in its detail it is similar to the glory vine. For this reason, it is now called Ipomoea lobata.

This has happened before. The delicate red-flowered star glory vine used to go by the scientific name of Quamoclit pennata. But this, too, has been recognized for being related to the glory vine. So its scientific name is now Ipomoea quamoclit. These two plants are distinctive for their striking red and orange hues, which really set them apart from the likes of ‘Heavenly Blue’ and ‘Grandpa Ott’. So if you are in search of plants to fit in with hot color schemes, these Ipomea will certainly fit the bill.

Are morning glories invasive?

Morning glories (and other related vines) are listed by some, mainly southern, states as noxious weeds. In many cooler parts of the country, they never cause problems, so invasiveness is not a concern. But different species may cause problems in specific areas – and there are also some related native species. If you are worried your morning glories might become invasive plants, consult expert sources or ask your local cooperative extension service for guidance.

As Saara Nafici points out for the Brooklyn Botanic Garden, morning glory is a controversial plant. 'It is cultivated as an ornamental garden plant by some and vilified as a weed by others,' says Saara. 'It easily outcompetes other plants, and can quickly colonize an area, but many gardeners are willing to accept these faults because of its lovely funnel-shaped blossoms,' she adds.

Where to buy morning glory

Morning glories and moonflowers are offered as seeds, both via mail order and at walk-in garden outlets, although a wider range of colors is usually available by mail order. Young morning glory plants are vulnerable to breakages, so are rarely offered as plants by mail order. Even if you see plants offered by mail order, it is wiser to buy seeds instead.

Plants are sometimes offered in garden centers and other (usually high end) garden retail outlets, but tend to be fragile. Also, if they have been grown in warm conditions in the nursery, they may take time to adjust to life in your yard after planting. Use our quicklinks to find morning glory varieties for your garden.

Where to buy morning glory seeds in the US:

• Shop morning glory seeds at Amazon
• Shop morning glory seeds at Baker Creek
• Shop morning glory seeds at Burpee
• Shop morning glory seeds at Diane's Flower Seeds
• Shop morning glory seeds at Summerhill Seeds

Where to buy morning glory seeds in the UK:

• Shop morning glory seeds at Amazon
• Shop morning glory seeds at Crocus
• Shop morning glory seeds at Mr Fothergill’s
• Shop morning glory seeds at Suttons Seeds
• Shop morning glory seeds at Thompson & Morgan

Gas vs wood-fired pizza ovens – which is best for you? Pizza ovens are the new must-have backyard feature if you love to entertain outdoors. And, before you make the investment, you'll need to make some decisions. These include how much you'd like to spend, and the size and style you want, but one of the most important factors of all is the type of fuel you want to use. Once you've decided on this, choosing between the best pizza ovens becomes much easier.

'There are a few considerations when deciding between a wood-fired pizza oven and a gas-fired pizza oven, so it helps to know the advantages and disadvantages of each,' says Pam Wiselogel of Patio & Pizza Outdoor Furnishings.

What are the pros and cons of wood-fired pizza ovens?

Thinking of keeping it traditional by using a wood-fuelled pizza oven? Here are the things to consider before you make your final decision.

Benefits of wood-fired pizza ovens

As noted by the experts at Ooni, cooking in a wood-fired pizza oven has a much more traditional feel. For many alfresco chefs, the smell of burning wood and the hands-on experience of working with fire and adjusting vents can't be beaten. It's ideal if you're looking to create an authentic Italian experience in your backyard.

Some say the flavor is better, too, as cooking over wood gives the food a delicious smokiness. This extends beyond making pizzas – don't forget, there are lots of other things you can cook in a pizza oven. As Paul Sidoriak of GrillingMontana.com points out, a benefit of wood-fired pizza ovens is they can impart some flavor at lower temperatures to steaks, roasts, fish, and other baked goods.

What's more, you can change the type of wood used in the oven and get different flavors on the pizza, says Shrey from CounterTopPizzaOven.com.

Drawbacks of wood-fired pizza ovens

It can take a bit of practice to learn how to use a wood-fired pizza oven and get your culinary creations just right, as Paul explains. 'There is a learning curve for fire and temperature management,' he says. 'It’s not as simple to adjust as a gas oven.'

Pam agrees: 'For beginners, it can be tricky to get the right temperature in a wood pizza oven; if it's too hot, your pizza won't cook evenly, while too low a temperature will slow down the cooking time.'

There's also the matter of fuel. 'Pizza oven wood is not readily available in all areas of the country, and purchasing it can be very expensive,' says Paul.

And, both Pam and Paul comment on how pizza ovens can take longer to prepare before you can start cooking on them.

What's more, wood ovens are often larger than gas-fired ones – so may require a dedicated space for both usage and storage, Paul adds.

Shop wood-fired pizza ovens:

What are the pros and cons of gas pizza ovens?

Cooking on gas is the other option when it comes to choosing the type of pizza oven for your yard.

Benefits of gas pizza ovens

Convenience is the name of the game for gas pizza ovens. 'Gas requires less maintenance throughout your cook,' explains Ooni. 'To control the temperature, you simply need to turn the control dial up or down.' Paul agrees: 'Gas is more simple to stay within a specific temperature range.'

Gas ovens heat quickly without much fuss, says Pam. It's also easier to get repeatable results, she adds, something especially great for professional bakers or beginners alike who are still mastering their technique. 'Gas-fired pizza ovens are also cheaper to use as they require less fuel than wood-fired ovens.'

Then there's the space issue. Typically, gas ovens are more compact than wood-fired ovens, says Paul: an important factor to consider if you have a small garden.

Cleaning a pizza oven is easier if you opt for gas, too – there's no ash to clear up, as Ooni mentions.

Drawbacks of gas pizza ovens

Shrey comments on how gas ovens can have longer cooking times in comparison to wood-fired ones, and that the heat can be inconsistent. Paul also comments on the latter, explaining how these ovens are often less insulated, which can cause temperature swings.

And, although there isn't any ash to clear up, you will still need to clean your pizza oven to keep it in good condition. 'Propane gas will form an unsightly black soot on the roof of the oven and often the front of the oven,' says Paul.

Then, as mentioned, there's that smokey taste you get with wood-fired pizza ovens that's so well-loved. 'It's true that gas ovens lack some of the depth of flavor achieved by wood-burning stoves,' Pam says. 'However, with a few tweaks, such as adding smoke chips or adjusting baking speeds, this difference can become rather negligible.'

Shop gas pizza ovens:

Gas vs wood-fired pizza ovens – which is best?

If you're looking for ease, then gas pizza ovens are the way forward. The speedy heat-up time and ability to easily adjust temperatures while cooking mean they're perfect for hosting a no-fuss outdoor pizza party. As mentioned, their usually-compact size and lightweight design means they're convenient for urban living, too – just pop it on a pizza oven table on your patio or deck when you fancy cooking up a feast.

But, for some, cooking on gas just doesn't have that rustic appeal of using firewood – and this is enough to overlook the expensive fuel, messy ash, and trickier technique. 'Wood-fired cooking is a true art – it takes time, and you’ll have to continuously manage the fire throughout the night, but there’s something so magical in the whole experience,' says the experts at Gozney. In fact, cooking over wood can be a satisfying challenge to master. And you can be sure that the results – albeit, perhaps, eventual – will capture that delicious, authentic taste.

Still can't decide? 'A lot of pizza ovens now come in a dual-fuel variation, so the good news is you don’t need to pick between the two when deciding which oven to buy,' says the experts at Gozney. Their Roccbox is a dual-fuel model with two interchangeable gas and wood burners – you simply twist off one and reattach the other to switch between gas and wood-fired cooking, they explain. 'Our latest pizza oven, the Gozney Dome, goes one step further,' they add. 'It has a built-in dual fuel burner system so you can effortlessly switch fuel types without having to attach a different burner.'

Wondering 'why are my poinsettia's leaves falling off?' If that's the case, chances are you want to solve it quickly so your festive plant can once again take pride of place in your seasonal displays. 

Poinsettias are a firm Christmas favorite thanks to their colorful fronds that look like leaves. Bright red or hot pink are the most popular colors, and many people gift poinsettias to their loved ones or use them as part of their Christmas decor. 

For all the beauty, poinsettias do have a few unusual requirements if your plant is to survive the weeks leading up to Christmas and beyond the big day too. If you learn how to care for a poinsettia properly, it can grow happily in your home for many years to come. 

If your poinsettia is dropping its leaves, it's time to investigate what could be going wrong for your plant. 

4 common reasons why a poinsettia's leaves fall off

Once you know the most common reasons for poinsettia leaf drop, you can hopefully nurse your favorite Christmas plant back to good health. 

1. Over or underwatering

As is true of the vast majority of indoor plants, poinsettias dislike being either over- or underwatered. 

As a certified horticulturist and co-founder at The Indoor Nursery , expert Brody Hall says: 'Poinsettias require well-draining, evenly moist soil to thrive. Over-watering can cause the leaves to droop and eventually fall off, while underwatering can cause the leaves to turn yellow and then drop.'

The easiest way to water your poinsettia correctly is to make sure that the top layer of soil dries out before you water again. Use the finger test: dip your finger into the soil; the top half-inch should be dry before you water.

2. Lack of light

While it is true that poinsettias need 12 hours of darkness every night in the months leading up to the blooming season, once a poinsettia begins blooming it does need plenty of bright light during the day to thrive. 

Brody Hall advises that 'poinsettias need a minimum of six hours of direct or indirect light daily. If the plant is not getting enough light, the leaves will turn yellow, droop, and fall off.' 

Poinsettias thrive in bright, warm kitchens and living rooms. Avoid keeping them in dark rooms all day. 

A lack of light can also be reason why a poinsettia isn't turning red. 

3. Low temperatures

Poinsettias are South American natives and dislike the cold, even though people in the northern hemisphere like displaying them around Christmas time. 

Jean Bloom, a blogger at Gardening FAQs and an avid gardener for over 30 years, explains that 'poinsettias typically lose their leaves when subjected to rapid temperature fluctuations, drafts, or very cool or dry environments.' 

If you keep your poinsettia on a windowsill, make sure the window isn't drafty and isn't opened frequently. Brody Hall adds that you should 'keep the temperature stable between 65-70˚F (18-21˚C)' in the room where the poinsettia is kept. A draft-free environment is also a good idea if you've made a poinsettia centerpiece for your festive decorations and want the leaves to last as long as possible. 

Top tip: Try to avoid buying poinsettias from supermarkets. They are typically exposed to cold drafts, especially if they're sold next to an entrance/exit. By the time you bring your plant home, it's often already dying from overexposure to the cold. Try to buy your poinsettias from reputable plant nurseries or garden centers. 

4. Your poinsettia is suffering from pests

Poinsettias, unfortunately, can be attacked by common houseplant pests. Lindsey Hyland, a gardening expert and the founder of Urban Organic Yield, points out that 'pests such as mealybugs and spider mites can cause poinsettia's leaves to fall off.'

If you notice either pest on your plant, the first step is always to try and get rid of as much of them as you can with a q-tip dipped in a mild soap solution or diluted neem oil, available from Amazon. Next, give your plant a warm shower to get rid of any remaining bugs. 

The best cure, however, is prevention: buying your poinsettias from a reputable grower should reduce the chance that they will be pest-infested. It also gives you the best chance of having a healthy plant so you can propagate your poinsettia in the future and get extra plants for free.  

While new types of perennials are still appearing in garden centers, it’s the new garden shrubs that are catching our attention. 

Valuable for bringing structure and form to a space, many also offer colorful foliage, as well as flowers and even fragrance. And evergreen shrubs will provide leafy green interest all year round.

In garden centers, new varieties are sometimes flagged up with special displays, but it’s often mail-order sources that offer us new varieties for the first time. Some mail-order nurseries make a point of checking out all the latest new introductions before offering the best – sometimes in small quantities.

Of course, gardeners have to stay on their toes, as the hot new varieties sell out quickly. The splendid new double-flowered Philadelphus ‘Pearls of Perfume’, which flowers not only in spring but all through summer, sold out in just a few days, for instance.

10 garden shrubs to elevate your planting scheme

Our list of top backyard shrubs features lots of exciting new varieties. All have beautiful blooms, too, to give your space more flower power. 

1. Berberis

• Hardiness: USDA Z4-7 (RHS H7)
• Best for: Colorful foliage

New varieties of these tough deciduous shrubs come in new color combinations and with neater-than-usual growth.

‘Orange Sunrise’, pictured, has rich red foliage edged in gold. ‘Chocolate Summer’ has deep chocolate brown leaves, while ‘Venice’ has pinkish leaves turning ruby. All have neat, upright growth.

Berberis plants are tolerant of most soils and situations, but the foliage colors best in full sun.

2. Forsythia

• Hardiness: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Vibrant spring flowers

There are many varieties of forsythia available at Nature Hills. They are early-flowering shrubs that are valuable for brightening the garden after the winter lull. 

In recent years, we’ve seen new forsythias that are neater and more compact, more prolific, and with colorful foliage. At only 23.5in (60cm) in height, the impressively dwarf 'Maree d’Or' is perfect for small spaces. Meanwhile, ‘Discovery’ has yellow-edged foliage to provide color after flowering.

They grow best in full sun in any fertile soil that is not parched or waterlogged. Dwarf types can be grown as part of your container garden ideas.

3. Hebe

• Hardiness: USDA Z7-8 (RHS H4-5)
• Best for: Neat, evergreen shrubs

Hebes are versatile garden shrubs, adding interest to a scene with their often-ornamental foliage and varied colors. Although it's not a new variety, Hebe franciscana 'Tricolor' (pictured), for instance, has wonderful tones of cream, green, and – in cold weather – pink. It also has pale purple flowers in summer.

There is, however, a never-ending series of new hebes to get excited by, too. The five-color 'Red Wine Series', for example, features deep red winter foliage, plus summer flowers. 'Rainbow', meanwhile, has multicolored winter leaves, and 'Starlight' has white-edged leaves and, in summer, white flowers.

Plant hebes in any good, well-drained soil in full sun. They appreciate shelter from cold winds.

4. Hydrangea

• Hardiness: USDA Z3-8 (RHS H5-6)
• Best for: Growing in part shade

Whether landscaping with hydrangeas or growing them in pots, these flowering shrubs are one of our favorites. There are many different types of hydrangeas available at Burpee, as well as other plant retailers, and they are commonly spotted in garden centers, too. 

They grow well in full sun or part shade in moist, well-drained, fertile soil. The best way to prune hydrangeas depends on the variety you have.

New hydrangeas come in a variety of styles. 'Miss Saori' is a traditional mophead type with pink and white double flowers, while 'Runaway Bride' has spreading growth with white lacecap flowers. For smaller spaces, the compact 'Little Spooky' has white conical flowerheads.

5. Choisya

• Hardiness: USDA Z7 (RHS H4) 
• Best for: Prolific flowers

Also known as Mexican orange blossom, choisya is a beautiful backyard shrub for year-round interest. 'Aztec Peal', shown above, is a popular pick and a winner of the Award of Garden Merit from the RHS.

Recent developments in these invaluable evergreen plants include combining neater growth and pretty foliage with prolific, fragrant flowers. The new variety 'Appleblossom' has slender foliage, pink buds and fragrant white flowers and reaches only 4ft (1.2m). We also like the equally neat 'Royal Lace', which has fragrant white flowers and slender golden foliage. 

Happy in full sun, or a little shade, and rich soil, these new choisyas also thrive in patio containers.

6. Salvias

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H4)
• Best for: Summer flowers

Salvias are popular perennial shrubs that dazzle in summer with spikes of colorful flowers.

New salvias of all kinds are arriving in garden centers, with some especially pretty shrubby kinds featuring aromatic foliage.

The 'Lips Series' takes the popular red and white ‘Hot Lips’ (shown above, and available on Amazon) into new colors – while 'Oriental Dove' has deep reddish-purple flowers whose lower lips fade almost to white at the edges.

Grow salvias in well-drained soil in full sun or in a pot on the patio or deck. Pruning salvias is generally done in spring.

7. Daphne

• Hardiness: USDA Z7 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Winter fragrance

These are one of the best evergreen, winter-flowering shrubs. Recent varieties have extended the flowering season, enhanced the scent and added attractive foliage.

'Marianni' combines intoxicating purplish flowers in winter and spring with dramatically variegated evergreen foliage. 'Eternal Fragrance' (white) and 'Pink Fragrance' (pink) have six months of scented white flowers.

Daphnes are not fast-growing shrubs, but their beauty and scent are worth the wait. They are happy in rich well-drained soil in sun or part shade or in a container.

8. Lavender

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H4)
• Best for: Bees

Lavenders are some of the best plants for bees and work well in all styles of gardens. New lavenders are becoming increasingly popular as patio plants, with neat growth and amazingly prolific flowering – plus highly aromatic, even variegated, foliage.

The compact 'BeeZee Series' comes in five distinct colors, while the 'Ruffles Series' has elegantly rippled flags at the top of the flower clusters. For something that feels totally different, though, we like 'Meerlo' (shown above), with its creamy-edged leaves. All are ideal in well-drained compost in terracotta pots in a sunny place on the patio.

9. Buddleja

• Hardiness: USDA Z6-8 (RHS H5)
• Best for: Attracting butterflies

Buddlejas – available at Nature Hills – are a favorite for butterfly gardens. Recent developments have often been in the way they grow – with upright buddlejas and weeping buddlejas now available.

‘Butterfly Towers’ (pictured above) has a unique, upright habit, while blue-flowered ‘Wisteria Lane’ develops elegant weeping growth. ‘Berries and Cream’ has purple and white florets, in the same spike. They grow best in sun and good soil – prune in the same way as other buddlejas.

Bear in mind that in some regions, buddleja is considered an invasive plant – so proceed with caution if you're considering one of these backyard shrubs.

10. Azaleas

• Hardiness: USDA Z8 (RHS H5-6)
• Best for: Patio containers

Two new series of azaleas represent unexpected, but dramatic, developments, and both are ideal for small gardens.

Varieties in the 'Encore Series' (available on Amazon) bloom again after their first spring flush, while the 'Starstyle Series' ('Starstyle pink' is shown above) has pretty starburst flowers and is especially good in containers.

Plant these garden shrubs in lime-free compost in containers set in the sun or in partial or dappled shade. Do not allow the roots to dry out.

Are new varieties of garden shrubs better than old ones?

There is a reason that some plants become firm favorites with gardeners and remain favorites for decades – centuries, even. The most obvious is that they’re attractive, dependable plants that are easy to look after. They may also be easy for nurseries to propagate and develop quickly into saleable plants.

But, new varieties are often developed with today’s gardens, and today’s gardeners, in mind. New shrubs for small gardens, for instance, are invaluable as new properties often have more compact plots. Varieties with a long flowering season give us more from individual plants than those that only bloom for a few short weeks. Pest and disease resistance is also vital, as we try to use fewer pesticides.

So, some new varieties are definitely better than some old favorites. But old favorites are still favorites for a good reason.

Edible weeds may sound too good to be true, but you know what they say: one man’s trash is another man’s treasure. And hey, what better way to tackle any pernicious, wild or uninvited garden growths than to eat them? Revenge can be sweet, after all. And if this round-up shows us anything, it’s that there is a genuine purpose to many plants we might previously have written off as bad news.

The word ‘weed’ suggests garden terrors that choke the life from beloved ornamentals, stealing nourishment from the ground and taking over a garden in days. But the reality is that many weeds serve a purpose and can work wonders in the kitchen garden alongside more obvious cropping staples. Several are beneficial and have medicinal properties, while others are undeniably nutritious – and a few are delightfully pretty on a plate!

American poet Ella Wheeler Wilcox once wrote: ‘A weed is but an unloved flower.’ So in this selection, we encourage you to feel the love for a host of plants that have suffered too long from a bad press. It’s definitely time to reassess the worth of some very wonderful weeds, as we present a feast of easy-growing (and genuinely tasty) edible treasures. 

15 types of edible weeds to transform a kitchen garden

The definition of ‘weeds’ is a thorny one, and can outfox even seasoned gardeners. What some dismiss as undesirable and unwelcome, others celebrate and seek out. Indeed, ‘weeds’ can often be interchangeable with ‘wildflowers’, depending on your point of view. 

If you are rewilding your garden you will be familiar with a few of the entries in our list of edible weeds. Likewise, foragers and potager garden lovers will recognize – and welcome – these plants for their medicinal and beneficial qualities. 

Lots of these plants are self-seeding and can be found growing naturally in quiet corners of your garden. But it is possible to purchase seeds online for many ‘weeds’ if you are interested in expanding your culinary horizons!

1. Nettles

• Height: up to 1.2m
• Edible parts: leaves, stems, roots

Who hasn’t come a-cropper with stinging nettles? But you’d be amazed how tasty these prolific garden squatters can be. The tasty leaves of both annual Urtica urens and perennial U. dioica are a revelation. Easily picked from walls and fences, all you need are sturdy gloves to harvest highly refreshing edibles. Just don’t eat raw, and avoid eating once nettles flower.

Nettles are some of the best plants for pollinators, especially butterflies. Also, having nettles as companion plants with other crops can encourage beneficial insects like ladybirds, which act as a natural pest control. These weeds make excellent soups, teas and wilted greens. Loaded with iron, potassium and calcium, nettles have been unfairly maligned for long enough. Time to tuck in!

• Buy nettles in the US: view at Strictly Medicinal Seeds
• Buy nettles in the UK: view at Amazon.co.uk

2. Mallow

• Height: can reach 1-1.5m
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers, seeds

Pretty wild mallow (Malva neglecta) and common mallow (Malva sylvestris) appear in mixed shades of funnel-shaped pink flowers, often two-toned or striped. The foliage tends to be lobed and crinkled. Some say the leaves taste nutty, others that they taste like spinach. In Roman times, common mallow was considered to be an aphrodisiac!

Mallow has edible flowers as well as leaves, plus the roots can be used to help make a nourishing brew. You can also pickle the buds. ‘Mallow of the woods’ is the wild cousin to the tree mallow (Lavatera maritima or Malva arborea), which also has edible flowers and leaves. 

• Buy rose or tree mallow in the US: view at American Meadows
• Buy common mallow in the UK: view at Amazon

3. Chickweed

• Height: 40cm high
• Edible parts: flowers, leaves

Given its white star-shaped blooms, chickweed (Stellaria media) has a delicate, uplifting ornamental quality. It may technically be a weed, but it is also a pretty one. It grows in abundance in a flower bed, along a pathway and across lawns. Chickweed also makes some of the best container plants you can grow – and the fact they are edible is a bonus.

As Amateur Gardening’s veg expert Lucy Chamberlain points out, these types of weeds have a soft, buttery texture and can be cooked like spinach, although they are best as salad leaves. ‘The flavour is mild, so use this edible weed as a bulking agent for more peppery leaves such as watercress and chicory,’ says Lucy.

• Buy chickweed in the US: view at Mountain Rose Seeds
• Buy chickweed in the UK: view at Nicky’s Nursery

4. Nasturtiums

• Height: up to 3m high
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers, seeds

With their nickname ‘nose twister’, nasturtiums are known for their spicy kick. What’s more surprising is that these garden stalwarts are still often disparaged. Given their gorgeous floral hues and lily-pad leaves, they have rightly earned their place in beds and borders as well as modern kitchen gardens. They are loaded with vitamin C, calcium, zinc and iron – and the blooms look lovely in salads.

However, because of their vigorous, sprawling growth habit and year-round growing potential, they tend to fall into the ‘weed’ camp by default. Nonetheless, they make for tantalizing peppery additions to all manner of dishes. The seeds can be used to make capers, commonly known as ‘poor man’s capers’. And for those with a taste for adventure, why not crush the leaves to add rich tints to pesto and bread? 

• Buy Nasturtium ‘Jewel’ in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy Nasturtium ‘Jewel’ in the UK: view at Amazon

5. Hairy bittercress

• Height: 30cm high
• Edible parts: leaves

It may not be the nicest-sounding weed on the block, but hairy bittercress (Cardamine hirsuta) has some redeeming qualities. That is, once you manage to extricate it from your paths, garden walls, pots and bare soil patches. It is definitely one of the most persistent annual weeds, as well as one of the most distinctive, with its rosettes of small green leaves.

Still, its fresh, cress-style flavor makes it amongst the tastiest weeds to eat, raw in salads or mashed up in a peppery pesto. ‘During winter, this hardy plant develops slowly,’ says Lucy. ‘Gather it before spring, and you’ll make a severe dent in its population. Revenge is definitely a dish served cold!’

• Buy hairy bittercress in the UK: view at Emorsgate Seeds 

6. Fat hen (lamb’s quarters)

• Height: up to 1.2m high
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers, seeds

These edible weeds have quite a few bizarre-sounding names, including white goosefoot, bacon weed and lamb’s quarters. However, they are commonly known as fat hen or wild spinach. Fat hen (Chenopodium album) is a member of the same family as spinach and beetroot, and it may be modest in appearance but it is surprisingly tasty. 

The leaves of fat hen are best cooked and used as a substitute for kale and cabbage. It has a reputation for being quite a dominant grower, so you will enjoy lifting these plants for eating! If you like these edible weeds, you should also try tree spinach (Chenopodium giganteum) and Good King Henry (Chenopodium bonus-henricus), aka the ‘poor man’s asparagus’. 

• Buy tree spinach in the US: view at Strictly Medicinal Seed
• Buy tree spinach in the UK: view at Amazon.co.uk

7. Purslane

• Height: 15-20cm high
• Edible parts: leaves, stems, flowers

Tumbling from paving slabs, paths and cracks, common purslane thrives in parched situations. It’s one of the most resilient plants for rockeries and amongst the best patio plants you can grow. This unassuming plant is also an ancient medicinal wonder and one of the most nutritious weeds to eat as it is loaded with Omega-3 fatty acids. 

Also known as little hogweed and the moss rose, it’s easy to identify this edible weed as it resembles a succulent. Fleshy foliage develops in elongated clusters on reddish stalks. Viewed as a citrussy delicacy across Asia and the Middle East, young leaves are best consumed raw, while older pickings work well steamed or stir-fried.  

• Buy purslane in the US: view at Burpee.com
• Buy purslane in the UK: view at Amazon.co.uk

8. Horseradish

• Height: 90cm high
• Edible parts: roots, leaves

Coming from the same family as mustard, horseradish (Armoracia rusticana) is one of the most pungent edible weeds you can grow. These rugged, cold-hardy perennials thrive in well-drained soil and make excellent companion plants for potatoes because they are a natural pest and disease repellant. 

Horseradish root is particularly tasty, and when grated it makes a delicious sauce. However, it is quite pervasive in gardens and can quickly take over. As Lucy notes, its spreading roots penetrate deeply and can be stubbornly persistent. If you are able to sink a young plant in a large pot or planter, you may find this helps keep its feistier habits in check. 

• Buy horseradish in the UK: view at Suttons Seeds

9. Sheep’s sorrel 

• Height: up to 1m
• Edible parts: leaves, roots

Known as the ‘sour weed’, sheep’s sorrel (Rumex acetosella) has a tart and tangy flavor, which is often described as being like rhubarb or lemon. The acidic taste comes from the presence of oxalic acid, so consumption of this weed is advised only in small quantities. 

Given their fragrant character, sheep’s sorrel works well in Thai stir-fries and salads. You can eat both its distinctive arrowhead leaves and roots, but pick while young. If you like this edible weed, you’ll love heartwing sorrel (Rumex hastatulus), which is also found growing wild in gardens.

• Buy sorrel in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy sheep’s sorrel in the UK: view at Pretty Wild Seed

10. Yarrow

• Height: 60cm-1.2m
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers

Common yarrow (Achillea millefolium) has evocative alternative names such as soldier’s woundwort, devil’s nettle and old man’s pepper. As horticultural expert Anne Swithinbank points out, the name ‘soldier’s woundwort’ alludes to this weed’s wound-healing properties. And as well as having fine herbal properties, this edible weed is nutritious and tasty.

There are many pretty ornamental varieties, but common yarrow makes a fine leafy green in soups and stews, with a taste reminiscent of tarragon. You can grind the leaves and flowers to make a spice. You can also make herbal tea from this weed. One word of warning: ‘This weed is said to help with digestive disorders and fevers, but don’t take if pregnant or breastfeeding,’ says Anne.

• Buy white yarrow in the US: view at Everwilde
• Buy yarrow in the UK: view at Chiltern Seeds

11. Dandelion

• Height: 40cm high
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers, roots

Flowering early in spring and late into the fall, dandelions are some of the most tenacious and enduring weeds in the garden. Although they have long been likened to botanical thugs, dandelions are incredibly beneficial. They make potent bee-friendly plants and they are some of the most versatile edible weeds on the plot.

As Lucy Chamberlain observes, dandelion leaves make a punchy winter salad or stir-fry ingredient. If you find them too bitter, cover rosettes with an upturned clay pot to blanch the shoots. And if you are concerned about how pervasive dandelions can be on the plot, plant a few taproots in a large tub of moist potting compost, says Lucy. You may find they make some of the best perennial plants for pots and will service you with tasty greens for months.

• Buy dandelions in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy dandelions in the UK: view at Amazon

12. Burdock

• Height: 90cm-1.5m
• Edible parts: roots, leaves

Most of us get our first taste of burdock as children, by gulping down the distinctive dandelion and burdock drink, which is bursting with vitamins. However, these perennial weeds can also be enjoyed for their nutty roots. Great burdock (Arctium lappa) is known to self-seed and thrives in a wildlife garden or meadow-style patch.    
While you may recognize burdock growing wild by its vivid, thistle-style purple flowers, it is the young and tender roots that are the real steal when it comes to eating. Lucy recommends peeling and placing these in lemon water until they are needed to prevent discoloring. ‘As well as being edible, burdock offers a purgative effect for toxins,’ says Lucy.

• Buy burdock in the US: view at Mountain Rose Herbs
• Buy burdock in the UK: view at Amazon

13. Duckweed

•  Height: 20cm long
• Edible parts: stalks, leaves

Formerly dismissed as the scourge of garden ponds, duckweed is experiencing a botanical Renaissance in the west thanks to its popularity in Asian cuisine. It could well be one of the most beneficial edible weeds you can nibble on: protein and vitamin rich, anti-inflammatory, incredibly fast-growing and impressively sustainable in gardens of all sizes.

Reminiscent of watercress, this aquatic perennial is one of the best pond plants in terms of how easy it is to grow and maintain. As well as being shade loving and low maintenance, it is fast becoming the new ‘superfood’ as well as one of the most refreshing weeds to eat. Wolffia varieties are best, but you can also eat Lemna duckweed in small quantities. 

• Buy duckweed in the US: view at Pond Plants Online
• Buy duckweed in the UK: view at Amazon

14. Wood sorrel (oxalis)

• Height: 20cm high
• Edible parts: leaves, stems, flowers

There are several types of wood sorrel, including pink and yellow flowering varieties. Some varieties such as Oxalis montana are known as sour grass, which hints at their flavor. As long as you have a green-leaved type of weed, these are excellent weeds to eat. They are rich in vitamin C and their fresh citrus tang makes them perfect in salads. 

Those with white flowers have a super-sour tang. As Anne Swithinbank observes, some call this type ‘Alleluia’ because their blooms open between Easter and Whitsun. Like sheep’s sorrel, the leaves contain oxalic acid so eat in moderation. ‘Establish by planting rhizomes at the base of trees or shrubs in light shade,’ says Anne. Yellow wood sorrel or lemon clover (Oxalis stricta) is also a great edible weed. 

• Buy yellow wood sorrel in the US: view at Seeds World Online
• Buy yellow wood sorrel in the UK: view at Amazon

15. Red/crimson clover

• Height: 80cm high
• Edible parts: leaves, flowers, seeds

If you try red clover leaves or flowers and wonder why they taste a bit like beans, it’s hardly surprising – this clover (Trifolium pratense) is a member of the bean family (Fabaceae). You can eat the leaves and the seeds, but the stunning balls of tubular magenta flowers are especially popular. 

Thanks to the bean connection, red clover is also great for fixing nitrogen in the soil. Cousin crimson clover (Trifolium incarnatum), also edible, is an effective green manure and can give the soil a reboot between harvest and new sowing. However, while tasty, it is advised not to eat too much of these edible weeds or you may experience bloating.

• Buy red clover in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy red clover in the UK: view at Amazon

Which edible weeds are best for other plants?

Some of the edible weeds mentioned here will benefit other plants if they grow in the right spot and conditions. As long as they are not threatening to overwhelm nearby crops, nettles and dandelions help attract pollinators like butterflies to the garden. Nettle is a ‘miracle weed’ because it can also be turned into a tea that you pour around other plants to boost growing. Wood sorrel and dandelion make effective (and cheap) liquid plant feed.

Then there are other weeds which are not edible but can also, when picked and processed, be used to make fertilizer. Depending on your soil types, comfrey (Symphytum officinale) is great for giving plants a boost. ‘Bocking 14’ contains high levels of nitrogen, potassium and phosphorus. The leaves are also effective if used in mulching around other plants.

Which weeds cannot be eaten?

Although a surprising number of weeds are edible, nutritious and tasty, there are some notable exceptions. While a few weeds are merely unpleasant, others are actively toxic – and can cause severe illness, or worse. A few weeds like oleander are poisonous plants for dogs and toxic for cats, so make sure you aren’t compromising the health of your pets and take steps to eliminate unnecessary risks. 

It’s a sobering fact that a few of the most beautiful-looking weeds are the deadliest. If you are at all unsure about a particular weed and can’t make an accurate identification, don’t risk it. Wait until you can consult a reliable source for more information – or leave well enough alone. And don’t forget to get rid of weeds that cause you concern. Here are some of the most striking yet most devastating weeds for humans:

• Belladonna (Atropa belladonna, aka deadly nightshade), when consumed, can lead to hallucinations, blurred vision, coma and death.
• Wild hemlock (Conium maculatum) is poisonous to animals and people, and is fatal in even tiny amounts; this applies to all parts of the plant.
• Oleander (Nerium oleander) can cause heart arrhythmia, and even food that comes into contact with the branches can cause severe illness.
• Bittersweet nightshade (Solanum dulcamara) develops poisonous (albeit temptingly purple) berries, and the leaves contain a highly toxic fluid. 

If you are wondering 'why are my orchid leaves drooping?' it's time to diagnose what could be going wrong with your plant. Orchids are notoriously sensitive to a number of environmental factors, from water and soil quality to temperature and light fluctuations. Let's just put it this way: orchids dislike change. 

Orchid care, including preventing the leaves from drooping, involves carefully diagnosing potential stressors. Here are the specific ones that can cause an orchid's leaves to droop, along with the best solutions offered by plant experts. 

Discover the key reasons your orchid leaves are drooping

If the leaves on your prized orchid are drooping, you'll want to identify the possible cause as quickly as possible so you can get your indoor plant back to its best. 

1. Over or under watering

Figuring out the correct watering regime for an orchid can be tricky. Most people overwater their orchids, but some actually end up underwatering, which can cause the leaves to droop. 

Dani Velasco, Indoor Plant Specialist from Unbeleafable PH, confirms that 'when you deal with orchid leaves drooping, it is most likely a problem with the way you water it. It is up to you to decide whether you have been watering your orchid too frequently or not enough.'

If your orchid's soil is soggy or water is sitting in the tray under the pot, you need to give your orchid a break from watering until the top layer of soil dries out. If the soil is bone dry, give the orchid a thorough watering. 

Incorrect watering can also be a reason for orchid flowers falling off. 

2. An incorrect growing medium

This is a common problem that can cause drooping leaves and is related to overwatering. Soggy soil is often caused by using a heavy potting mix, which is unsuitable for orchids. Tatyana Zhuk, the plant expert at the NatureID app, explains that 'orchids are epiphytes. In nature, they grow on trees and get their water by absorbing it from either the air or tree bark after a rain.'

So, with that knowledge, Zhuk recommends choosing a specialized orchid mix made with bark chips and coir (which can be bought on Amazon). 'Coir retains a lot of water and then slowly releases it for the plant to absorb. This prevents the roots from drying out and provides them with the humidity they need. This kind of growing medium doesn’t stick to the plant, which allows for proper air circulation.'

If it's time to repot your orchid, make sure you are using the correct growing medium in its new pot. 

3. An incorrect watering technique

Many people make the mistake of watering their orchids little and often, killing them with kindness in the process. Some people also experiment by watering them with ice cubes, which isn't ideal for orchids that prefer lukewarm water. 

Tatyana Zhuk gives precise instructions for watering your orchid correctly to prevent the leaves from drooping: 'Water your plant with warm, settled water, allowing the top layer of the potting mix to dry by around 0.4in (1cm) between watering sessions, which is approximately 2-3 times a week. Water abundantly, making sure the entire substrate gets wet.'

4. You are misting the leaves excessively

Misting is a favorite activity with many houseplant lovers, but there is way of overdoing it with orchids. Tatyana Zhuk cautions against misting so much that water accumulates in the leaf crown, which can cause leaves to droop or even drop off completely. 

Instead, try to mist the air around the plant in order to raise ambient humidity. Tatyana also notes that you should use 'boiled or filtered, above-room-temperature water for misting.'

5. There aren't enough nutrients in the soil

Orchids need a good balance of nutrients to keep healthy. According to Brody Hall, Co-Founder at The Indoor Nursery, it is 'a good idea to fertilize your orchid with specialized orchid fertilizer (available at Amazon) every 2-4 weeks to ensure it receives adequate nutrition.' 

Be warned, however, that over fertilizing can cause your orchid's leaves to turn yellow so make sure you use the correct dosage. 

6. Environmental stressors

Finally, most types of orchids dislike sudden changes in their environment, and their leaves drooping can be a sign of this stress. 

Brody Hall recommends monitoring the orchid's environment 'to ensure the temperature and humidity levels are not too extreme' and that there isn't too much or too little sunlight where the orchid is positioned. 

Ideally, orchids should be placed in a sheltered spot with bright indirect light, away from drafts and sources of heat. 

Keeping your orchid properly watered and fertilized and in a consistent environment in your indoor garden should stop its leaves from drooping and encourage your orchid to rebloom.

By planting ornamental edibles, you can enjoy a beautiful garden as well as the process of harvesting and eating tasty homegrown crops.

We ask a lot from our outdoor spaces and often aspire to good design, year-round interest, wildlife areas and produce all from one plot. This is rather like taking the essence of a country estate with its contours and lakes, shrub borders, parterres and walled kitchen garden and then cramming it into a postage stamp. Can you have it all? Of course you can – based on the French-style potager garden. 

The modern potager is usually a small, well-designed space. As Joy Larkcom suggests in her book Creative Vegetable Gardening, ‘It seems to me appropriate to steal the word "potager" and apply it today to any vegetable garden, of whatever size, which has been touched with the paintbrush of imagination.'

Purely ornamental trees and shrubs are replaced by those producing edible fruits, while groundcover is provided by herbs, perennial globe artichokes, asparagus and strawberries. Shorter-term crops chosen for beauty as well as abundance and flavor slot into formal, sunny beds bisected by pathways. A smattering of flowers for cutting, and to attract beneficial insects, as well as edible blooms such as nasturtiums, are not out of place. Bare corners can be filled with clusters of pots packed with beetroot, kohl rabi or climbing sugar snap peas. 

Even among ordinary types of veg, there are especially attractive cultivars. One year I grew a batch of leeks whose blue-green leaves were so handsome my husband requested some for his ornamental border. Meanwhile, peas, beans and small-fruited squash can make attractive climbers for temporary wigwams of poles or canes. 

One potager pitfall is leaving harvesting longer than usual for fear of spoiling the display. Do set crops slightly closer than normal and keep picking leaves, pulling roots and taking pods until the whole crop has been harvested at the peak of freshness. Canny potager gardeners raise replacements in modules or pots ready to fill gaps.

Grow these ornamental edibles to elevate your space

Whether you're growing in raised beds, containers, or borders, plan now to fill your garden with attractive and tasty ornamental edibles for year-round color and produce.

1. Runner bean ‘St George’ 

• Height: 7ft (2m) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

This climbing runner bean produces bicolored red and white flowers before setting a delicious crop. The beans are up to 12in (30cm) long and mature in clusters for easy picking. 

Other runners with pretty blooms include white-flowered ‘Moonlight’ and peachy pink ‘Celebration’. 

Sow into modules from late spring to mid-summer, and plant out into deeply cultivated soil.

2. Potato ‘Maris Peer’

• Height: 2ft (60cm) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

Originally popular for canning, the tubers of this second early potato are slightly smaller than average, well-flavored, and retain firmness when boiled. 

Attractively domed plants are decorated by plentiful, fragrant purple flowers. 

Plant slightly closer than normal in mid-spring. Tubers will usually have reached full size if and when potato blight occurs. 

3. Pea ‘Blauwschokker’

• Height: 5ft (1.5m) 
• Spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 10b

Even ordinary white-flowered peas are a beautiful sight, especially when their translucent pods are just setting. 

For years my favorite has been ‘Onward’ for productive, tasty peas. Yet some produce purple flowers and pods, such as mangetout ‘Shiraz’, sugar snap ‘Purple Magnolia’ and this tall, decorative heirloom, dual-purpose type whose pods are good as mangetout or for delivering green peas. 

4. White currant ‘Blanka’ 

• Height and spread: 4ft (1.2m)
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

The small flowers of this currant bush attract many pollinating insects and set into dangling strands of translucent white fruits ready in mid to late summer. These need to ripen fully before they are palatable to eat raw and will require meshing if there are lots of blackbirds around. 

Prune by thinning out older stems during winter.

5. Kohl rabi ‘Kolibri’

• Height and spread: 14in (35cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 9b/10a

This odd-looking veg, whose swollen stem sits above soil level, is mild and delicious raw or cooked. Plus, it's easier to grow and more drought-resistant than the closely-related swede and turnip. 

There are green and purple varieties, with the latter believed to be the hardiest. Sow small quantities from spring to midsummer and harvest when young. 

6. Chard ‘Bright Lights’

• Height and spread: 18in (45cm) 
• Hardiness: USDA 8b/9a

Related to beetroot and perpetual spinach, leafy Swiss chards are a long-lasting crop and one of the easiest vegetables to grow. 

Sowings are made from spring to autumn, with midsummer optimum, as resulting plants will last through to spring. 

If you like thick stalks, go for ‘Fordhook Giant’, but I love the narrower, colorful blades and midribs of ‘Bright Lights’ (you can buy the seeds from Amazon), especially from autumn to spring. 

7. Thornless loganberry ‘Ly 654’ 

• Height and spread: 2m (7ft)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

For a small garden on well-drained soil, a thornless loganberry is perfect to train over a fence, wall or across parallel wires stretched between posts. Expect white blossom and deliciously sweet fruits. 

More robust are thornless hybrid blackberries such as pink-flowered ‘Chester’, but beware as they can become vigorous. Cut out old canes after fruiting and tie in new ones.

8. Leeks ‘Toledo’ 

• Height: 18in (45cm) 
• Spread: 12in (30cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

For attractive foliage, choose leeks with blue-green leaves and the ability to stand well during winter. This high-yielding late variety will not disappoint and neither would the French ‘Bleu de Solaise’. 

Raise young transplants in spring, either under cover or in a seedbed. In early summer, set into deep drills or drop into individual holes. 

9. Blueberry ‘Bluecrop’

• Height: 5ft (1.5m) 
• Spread: 3ft (1m)
• Hardiness: USDA 6b/7a

Blueberries give you pretty bell-shaped flowers attractive to insects; delicious fruits; and red autumn tints – but they do need acidic soil. Fortunately, they grow well in generous containers of ericaceous compost. 

For bumper crops of fruit, grow two compatible types together. The cultivar ‘Duke’ will act as a pollinator for ‘Bluecrop’ (both available on Amazon). Occasionally prune back old stems when dormant.

10. Mustard ‘Red Frills’

• Height: 12in (30cm) 
• Spread: 10in (25cm)
• Hardiness: USDA 7b/8a

This is just one of several mustards with pretty, spicy-flavored frilled or indented green and reddish-purple leaves. They're easy choices for the kitchen garden, as can be sown almost year-round as quick cut-and-come-again crops, or space them 6-8in (15-20cm) apart for larger, longer-lived plants. 

Spring sowings may run to seed but those made from summer and autumn can be nursed through winter to spring.

Ivy is an attractive, evergreen, easy-to-grow, shade-loving vine that clings neatly to fences, walls and tree trunks and often features prettily patterned foliage. It is an indispensable plant, tolerating deeper shade than any other vine, but it can be invasive, especially in the West and Midwest.

These adaptable climbing plants cling to their host by tiny roots that develop wherever a stem touches a wall, tree trunk, wooden fence or other support. Ivy is not a harmful parasite – these tiny roots do nothing but hold the stems in place. Ivy also grows as a vigorous and effective ground cover.

The leaves of most ivies are shaped more or less like an arrowhead but some larger ivies have undivided leaves. There are hundreds of varieties, many of the most attractive have leaves that are prettily marked in gray, white, cream or yellow.

When growth reaches better light, or reaches the top of its support, the leaves often become larger and broader and only on this growth do the pale green fall flowers and black winter berries develop. These late flowers are popular with pollinating insects and the berries are eaten by birds.

Ivies also make excellent houseplants as they grow well in the low light inside many homes.

Ivy key facts:

• Plant type: Evergreen vine or ground cover
• Mature size: 6-100ft (2-30m)
• Soil type: Any except permanently wet
• Soil pH: Any except very acid
• Time to plant: Fall, spring
• Flowering/fruiting time: Autumn/winter
• Flower color: Pale yellow, green
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z4-6 (RHS H5)
• Scientific name: Hedera
• Common name: Ivy, English ivy

The two main types of ivy

Some ivies have large leaves up to 9in (23cm) across, while some have leaves as small as 1in (2.5cm) across – although most develop larger leaves as they start to flower. 

Large-leaved ivy

Ivies with large leaves are mostly varieties of Hedera algeriensis and Hedera colchica. They are generally more vigorous than small-leaved ivies, though grip their hosts less securely, with less neatly-lobed foliage and a wilder, more disorganized look.

Small-leaved ivy

Ivy plants with small, neat leaves are mostly varieties of the English ivy, Hedera helix. On walls and tree trunks they cling as they climb and branch out to create an overlapping sheet of leaves, a little like disorganized fish scales. Green-leaved varieties grow better in dark shade, variegated varieties prefer lighter shade. Small-leaved ivies can also make a low, flat ground cover.

How to use ivy in your backyard

There are multiple ways to use ivy in your planting scheme – here are some popular approaches for this fast growing climbing plant:

• As a vine: Consider vining ivy as a background to the flower garden and choose the leaf color thoughtfully. ‘Buttercup’ (yellow leaves) or ‘White Ripple’ (silver patterned) are good choices.
• Ground cover: Green-leaved ivy, such as ‘Pittsburgh’, is a good weed-smothering background for daffodils in a small space, while varieties of Hedera colchica are the most effective at smothering and preventing weed growth.
• Hiding eyesores: A fast-growing evergreen vine is sometimes needed to cover a shed or summerhouse that has seen better days. The large-leaved Hedera colchica ‘Dentata Variegata’ is ideal.
• Containers: Choose a variety that is prettily patterned (‘Goldchild’) or with an interesting shape (‘Duckfoot’) to trail over the sides of pots. Ivy is also a great hanging basket plant for a shaded deck.
• Houseplants: Most small-leaved ivies will grow well in the home, but ensure they are watered and fed regularly.
• Topiary: Compact varieties such as ‘Chicago’ are planted in wire frames to create the shapes of animals, often life-sized, or of people. These are relatively short-lived topiary features as ivy plants eventually resent the repeated clipping necessary to keep them to size.

How to plant ivy

The experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden explain that ivy is easily grown in part shade to full shade. It will also grow in full sun. It tolerates a wide range of soils, but prefers rich loams, and although it tolerates some drought, it produces best foliage color in evenly moist soils – but make sure there is good drainage.

Ivies are best planted in spring or fall, or in mild spells in winter in warmer areas.

When planting against garden walls, the soil may be poor, and the soil next to tree trunks may be full of tree roots. Either way, it pays to prepare thoroughly. Add plenty of garden compost or planting mix to the planting hole. Water in well, and apply a weed-free mulch.

Ivy shoots may need guiding in the right direction before they take a grip. The simplest approach is to use a small piece of duct tape to fix the stems to the climbing surface.

For ground cover, be sure to remove all existing weeds from the area then plant about 9in (23cm) apart. Do not mix different varieties, as in the end, one will usually take over.

How to care for ivy plants

Keep climbing ivies well watered in their first year. Then, once they have started to climb, ivies on walls and tree trunks need little attention. When they reach the top of their support they can be pruned back in spring to prevent the development of flowers and fruits.

If a plant becomes overgrown or falls away from its plant support, it can be cut back to 12in (30cm) in spring and well watered and fed. It will quickly re-grow.

It will take a year or two for ground cover ivies to make a dense cover. Be sure to remove any weeds that appear between the young plants. Spread can be hastened by using stones to weigh down the stems and keep them in contact with the ground. They will make roots and the area will be covered more quickly.

How to propagate ivy

Ivies root easily from plant cuttings at almost any time of the year except during the winter. 

1. Snip off shoots about 3-6in (7.5-15cm) long. Trim below the lowest leaf joint and snip off the leaves on the lower half leaving at least two leaves in place.
2. The cuttings can be rooted in pots of seed starting mix (available on Amazon) – push each in, leaving the lowest leaf just above the soil. 
3. Water well, place in an open-topped clear plastic bag and stand on a shelf in a sunroom or screened porch, out of direct sun.
4. Rooting will take three or four weeks, after which the rooted cuttings can be moved to individual pots.

Common problems with ivy

Ivies suffer from few pest problems, although in some areas they are favorites with deer. Mites, scale insects and aphids may cause trouble, but are much more common on ivies grown in the home than those grown outside. Outside, mites are most common on ivies growing on sunny walls. 

In deck or patio containers, vine weevil grubs can cause serious damage as they eat the roots, especially in winter, and in summer the adults may eat notches in the edges of the leaves. Organic treatments are available for most pest problems.

The only disease that may cause a problem is leaf spot disease which causes ugly brown marks to appear on the leaves. Remove the damaged leaves by hand or, if the infection is severe, use a fungicide.

Different problems need different treatments, so take advice from your local extension service.

Is ivy a good houseplant?

Many ivies make very good plants for indoor gardens, in the right conditions. Variegated, neat-growing varieties such as ‘Eva’ and ‘Harald’ make ideal houseplants and can be trained on ornamental frames. They look good all year round.

The problem is that ivies appreciate cool, moist and shady conditions – they grow naturally in woods and forests – but most homes are warm, dry and some situations can be very bright. The leaves of ivies grown in hot dry rooms indoors can dry out and drop off, and plants are often attacked by tiny mites that dry up the leaves and create gray webbing that develops a cobweb look.

Grown in a cool place, in good light but not in direct sun, indoor ivies can be very attractive if watered regularly, fed every month except during winter, and moved into a slightly larger container when the pot becomes full of roots.

Does ivy kill trees?

In general, no, ivy is not harmful to backyard trees. The tiny roots that attach the ivy stems to their host tree do not penetrate the bark and do not suck sap from the tree. 

Research suggests that trees that host ivy grow as strongly as those that do not. However, when ivy grows high into the crown of the tree, the increased wind resistance can cause the tree to be more susceptible to storm damage.

Is it OK to plant ivy to climb the wall of my house?

Although ivy is often used as a plant for garden walls, many houses are unsuitable as a host for ivy. Its shoots can penetrate cracks in the siding or masonry, block gutters and work their way in around windows. 

Ivy is, however, usually safe on modern brickwork which provides a grip for the tiny roots that support the plant while not providing cracks into which the ivy can insert itself. It pays, though, to cut it back every year to keep the stems out of gutters.

Is ivy deer resistant?

No, generally ivy is not a deer-resistant plant.

The experts at the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station, who have investigated deer-resistant plants, rate ivy as 'Occasionally Severely Damaged', the second most deer-resistant category. However, when ivy grows through a deer fence into the unfenced area of a yard it is often quickly eaten.

Is ivy invasive?

Yes, it can be. Ecosystem Gardening has strong views about ivy; 'Unfortunately, English Ivy (Hedera helix) is one of the most pernicious, nasty, and destructive of the invasive plants because it not only destroys native habitat, it can also destroy your house.' But this does not apply in many parts of the country, especially in areas colder than USDA Z4.

Ivy is cited as an invasive plant in western states, it is banned from sale in Oregon, and in the east is considered invasive from Massachusetts and Indiana south to Florida. So, it's best to check before you go to plant it in your backyard.

Variegated varieties are generally much less invasive than green-leaved varieties but may occasionally develop green-leaved shoots – which should be removed promptly.

How to buy ivy plants

In retail outlets, especially DIY stores and many other retail nurseries, ivies are usually offered in small pots making them suitable purchases for both outdoor use and as indoor plants. However, you may find that the variety name is not given or it may be vague, such as 'Variegated'. In that case, check the guidance provided on the tag, or simply pick the plant whose coloring you admire.

Because ivies can be grown both outside and in the home, in garden centers they may be displayed under cover with other houseplants as well as outside, unprotected. The same varieties can usually be chosen for both indoor and outdoor use, but ivies bought from a houseplant display will need help adjusting to cooler outdoor temperatures. Stand the plants in intermediate conditions for a week or two, allowing them to adjust.

Where to buy ivy plants

Want to grow ivy in your plot? These quicklinks will help you get started.

Shop ivy in the US:

• Shop ivy at Amazon
• Shop ivy at Burpee
• Shop ivy at Nature Hills

Shop ivy in the UK:

• Shop ivy at Crocus
• Shop ivy at Thompson & Morgan
• Shop ivy at Suttons

You may be wondering how to propagate poinsettias if you've brightened up your festive scheme this year with one or two. That way, you can add to your collection without having to buy more – and not only is it budget-friendly, it's super rewarding, too.

'With a little bit of patience, you can easily propagate poinsettias at home,' says Lindsey Hyland, the founder of Urban Organic Yield. There are two approaches – taking cuttings or sowing seeds – so you can choose whichever method works best for you. 

'With proper care and maintenance, you’ll be rewarded with beautiful poinsettia plants to display in your home or give away as gifts,' she adds.

How to propagate poinsettias from cuttings

Brody Hall, Co-Founder of The Indoor Nursery, shares his tips on how to propagate poinsettias by taking softwood cuttings, so you can get more of these gorgeous Christmas houseplants.

1. Look for lengths of new, non-flowering growth. Make a 45-degree angled cut about an inch below a leaf node, ensuring there are at least three leaves on each cutting. Be sure to wear gardening gloves, as the stems can release a milky sap which is an irritant to the skin.
2. Dip the ends of each cutting in hormone rooting powder, available on Amazon.
3. Place the cuttings in small, individual pots of potting mix. Gently press around the base and water lightly.
4. Place the pots on a windowsill that gets indirect light, and keep them warm. Check the cuttings daily to ensure the soil is still moist and not overly wet.
5. In 3-4 weeks, roots should have started to form. You can now transfer the cuttings to larger pots with more potting mix.

You can also propagate Christmas cactus plants from cuttings in a similar way, if you want even more festive houseplants for free.

When should you take cuttings from poinsettias?

You can take cuttings from your poinsettia at the same time you go to prune it (in early spring). In terms of the best time of day, aim for the morning, when it is cool.

How to propagate poinsettias from seeds

Growing new poinsettia plants from seeds is a little trickier and slower, but it's still a perfectly possible way to expand your indoor garden.

To propagate poinsettias using seeds, you’ll need to collect the tiny, fruit-like capsules from the center of a mature poinsettia flowerhead, says Lindsey. Put them in a paper envelope until they are completely dry.

Then, follow her steps below:

1. Carefully break open the capsule and remove the small black seeds inside.
2. Plant the seeds in a pot or tray filled with moistened potting soil or seed starting mix (available on Amazon).
3.  Place the pot in a warm, sunny area and keep the soil moist but not soggy. 
4. After approximately 6-8 weeks, you should see new growth appearing from the seeds. Once this happens, transfer your poinsettias to larger pots filled with fresh potting soil and give them plenty of sunlight.

If you've bought a pizza oven this summer, or are trying to decide whether it's worth the investment, one of the big questions you may wonder is whether you can use it when temperatures drop. After all, some places aren't blessed with warm weather all year, and the idea of having to store it away for a few months might be off-putting.

Well, the good news for budding all-season chefs is you can continue to fire up your pizza oven as normal. The best pizza ovens will be designed with insulation that can retain heat during cold weather, so you can still get high-quality results.

'Pizza ovens are a year-round tool,' says the experts at Gozney. 'It is a common misconception that they are reserved for summer.' However, before you start prepping for your next pizza party, there are a few tips and tricks for success you need to know.

The essential tips you need for using a pizza oven in winter

The pizza oven experts at Ooni say to anticipate a longer preheat time during winter weather. 'Wind and chill might lengthen the amount of time it takes to get your oven up to top temperature – don’t get impatient and overload the fuel basket or pellet hopper,' they advise. 'Just approach the setup and lighting the same way you would in the warmer seasons… and be prepared to wait an extra minute or two.'

Also, bear in mind that for gas pizza ovens, below-freezing temperature could cause the gas to freeze, adds Gozney. This could impact the flame size and performance: so again, be prepared to wait a little longer for your pizza oven to be ready to cook with.

Ooni suggests using an infrared thermometer (available on their website). These pizza oven accessories are useful in helping you make sure your oven stone is up to temperature before you start cooking.

'I frequently use my Ooni Fyra pizza oven during winter,' says Gardeningetc's editor Beth Murton. 'I tend to prep the pizzas indoors rather than outside in winter, but it's lovely and warm when you're standing next to the oven while your pizzas are cooking. I also make sure to set up the oven in a more sheltered spot in winter too, just in case it's windier than in the summer months.'

If you live in an extremely cold region, Gozney recommends keeping your oven in a shed or garage when not in use, to protect it from the elements. This will also help it heat up quicker and more efficiently. 

The experts at Ooni agree that sometimes, indoor storage is best, recommending bringing a pizza oven inside if you know a big storm is on its way. 'That will keep it from taking on too much moisture or getting battered by heavy hail,' they explain.

And if you've forgotten to move your pizza oven before a snowstorm, make sure you brush the snow off before cooking on it, adds Ooni. Otherwise, you risk melting snow sending water pouring into the fuel basket.

Should you buy a pizza oven cover for winter?

Gozney and Ooni both suggest using quality covers to protect your pizza oven from the elements when it's not in use. This is particularly important if you don't have an indoor space to move it to during inclement weather.

Gozney's Roccbox cover, for instance, is constructed from double-lined, waterproof material to keep off rain, snow, wind and sunlight.

What can you cook in a pizza oven in winter?

'Pizza is always a crowd pleaser, and nothing beats a sizzling slice of warm, cheesy pizza during the colder months,' says Gozney.

Get creative with toppings by introducing fall and winter flavors: think diced pumpkin, sage, or smoky cheese. 'Our carb-on-carb potato pizza recipe in collaboration with Thomas Straker pairs thinly sliced potatoes, rosemary salt and oozing pecorino for the ultimate winter warmer,' Gozney suggests.

To satisfy a sweet tooth, Ooni suggests making their gingerbread cinnamon roll pizza – a delicious wintertime treat topped with pecans and warming candied ginger.

There are other tasty meals you can cook with a pizza oven, too. Gozney suggests making a hearty dish of lamb koftes, served in a spicy tomato sauce with flatbreads. And don't forget you can also bake bread in a pizza oven: a great way to elevate your breakfasts whatever the season.

If you're wondering, 'why are my geranium leaves turning yellow?' there could be a few reasons for this noticeable change in the color of the foliage. Finding the most likely problem for your plant is key to getting it back to looking its best. 

Geraniums make for some of the most resilient plants, often happily growing outside on patios in warmer weather or indoor on window sills for many years. Note: we are talking about pelargoniums here, not the hardy saucer-shaped geraniums you may be growing in your yard. 

Provided you look after plants in summer and then overwinter your geraniums in frost-free, bright conditions, your geraniums should thrive year after year without any yellowing leaves. 

An occasional leaf that's turned yellow is nothing to worry about and can just be snapped off without any harm done to your plant. But if multiple leaves are turning yellow, you should diagnose what may be going wrong for your plant. 

5 reasons why your geranium leaves are turning yellow

If you've noticed the leaves on your geranium turning yellow – particularly if you've moved your plant indoors over winter – here are the likely causes you should be looking out for. 

1. Your geranium isn't getting enough sunlight

This is by far the most common reason for geranium leaves to turn yellow. Geraniums are not low light indoor plants as they love the sun, so if your geranium is indoors, place it as close to the sunlight as you can, ideally directly in a window. 

Alex Tinsman, a gardener from HowToHouseplant.com, confirms that 'geranium plants will start turning yellow if they do not get enough light. The plants need to access at least six hours of direct sunlight each day and be placed near the window to access sunlight most times of the day.'

2. You are over- or underwatering your geranium

Geraniums like drying out between waterings, so avoid watering plants so much that the soil is soggy, as that can cause root rot, which can manifest in yellowing leaves. 

Tatyana Zhuk, plant expert at the NatureID app, recommends allowing the topsoil to dry 'by about an inch (2cm) before watering your geranium again. You can check the soil moisture level with your finger or a wooden stick.'

When you do water again, 'aim to soak the entire soil, not just its top layer. Pour water at the base of the plant to directly moisturize the root system.' While geraniums dislike waterlogging, they also need water to access the roots.  

3. You are watering with tap water

This is a good rule for the majority of indoor plants: avoid using tap water, especially in hard water areas. 

Tatyana Zhuk says: 'Make sure to use only soft, room-temperature (filtered or left to settle for 1–2 days) water for watering. Watering with hard water containing excess salts can be harmful to the plant.' 

Another option is to collect rainwater and then use this for watering your plants. 

4. Your geranium isn't getting enough nutrition

Geraniums will do ok for a while in poor soil, but eventually, they will begin to decline. James Rivenburg, a plant expert from Plantandpest, explains that 'If you haven’t been fertilizing your plants regularly, the leaves can start to turn yellow.' 

An all-purpose plant fertilizer, available from Amazon, will keep your plant healthy during the winter season. When the geranium begins to bloom in the summer, feed it a potassium-rich fertilizer like Tomorite (try Amazon) to encourage blooms. 

5. Your geranium is suffering from a disease

Finally, if your geranium leaves are turning yellow with small brown spots on the leaves, the geranium is likely suffering from a fungal infection or a pest infestation. 

If there are no pests visible on the leaves, the problem is likely with the roots. Take the geranium out of its pot and examine the root system. If the roots and the soil around it are soggy, you might want to repot your plant into fresh, free-draining soil.

Avoid overcrowding your geranium plants too as that can cause the fungal disease to spread. Allow plenty of breathing space between pots. 

Do you know how to water an air plant? If you've recently added one to your collection, knowing the dos and don'ts is essential to keep it looking its best.

The interesting thing about air plants, as their name suggests, is that they don't need soil to grow. This means they can be displayed in many creative ways to create a contemporary indoor feature – from hanging baskets and terrariums to mounted wall frames. 

But just because they don't need soil, doesn't mean they don't need moisture. These are humidity-loving plants, and they need watering, too.

How to water an air plant in 4 simple steps:

Overall, air plants are low-maintenance indoor plants, as long as you put them in the right place and keep them sufficiently hydrated.

Brody Hall, Co-Founder of The Indoor Nursery, shares his simple step-by-step instructions on how to water an air plant:

1. Fill a bowl or container with lukewarm water.
2. Submerge your air plant in the water, ensuring all parts of the plant are underwater.
3. Soak the plant for 20-30 minutes.
4. Carefully remove the plant from the water. Place it in a sink or on a towel so that it can drain and air dry.

Jean Bloom, a gardening expert from GardeningFAQs.com, recommends leaving your plants to sit until they are completely dry, which can take one to three hours. This reduces the risk of them rotting.

Putting them somewhere with bright indirect light and good air circulation will help them dry out faster, adds Vladan Nikolic, a houseplant expert of Indoor Plant Blog. He also suggests placing them upside down, so that water doesn't get stuck in any crevices. 

How often should you water an air plant?

'Air plants are typically watered once a week,' says Brody.

Lighting, however, can play a role in how much water your air plant needs: in lower light, it can be less frequent, says Vladan. Likewise, if your air plant is somewhere very humid, it may need less watering.

The leaves are a good indicator of whether your plant needs a drink, Vladan adds. A well-hydrated plant will be supple – an under-watered one will be dry and brittle. 

Be careful not to overwater your houseplants, though – this can do more harm than good.

Should you mist air plants?

As mentioned, air plants like humidity, making them great houseplants for kitchens and bathrooms. But, if the environment isn't humid, misting them regularly with a spray bottle (such as this stylish one from Amazon) will give them a boost until you next water them properly.

Regular misting is also a good approach if you can’t remove the plants from their displays, or if you have a silvery or fluffy-looking desert species that requires less water. Again, ensure that there is plenty of air flow around the plants so that they dry off and no water collects between the leaves.

What is the best water for air plants?

Avoid giving your air plants chlorinated water, says Jean – this can cause the leaf tips to turn brown. Use filtered water or collected rainwater instead, if possible.

Alternatively, allow tap water to sit out in a bowl for 24 hours before using it to let the chlorine evaporate, Jean suggests.

'Hollies are enjoying a peak of popularity as gardeners wake up to their huge diversity of form and fruit and marvel at their adaptability…,' says Christopher Bailes, author of Hollies For Gardeners.

They are a large and unexpectedly varied group of deciduous and evergreen shrubs or small trees that are native to a wide variety of climates. They are grown for their often prolific crop of usually red berries and for their colorful leaves. Evergreen hollies feature bold dark leaves or leaves in a variety of pretty leaf patterns, while the leaves of deciduous hollies often turn yellow in the fall.

Hollies are mostly tolerant and adaptable plants that will grow in a range of garden situations and suffer from few damaging pests or diseases. And, although their flowers are small, the foliage and fruits more than compensate.

There is one unusual feature of hollies, one that can lead to great disappointment unless gardeners keep it in mind when choosing: individual holly plants are either male or female. Only female varieties will produce berries – but a male is needed to provide pollen for fertilization. So, it is important to plant both male and female hollies to be sure of berries.

• Shop hollies in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Shop hollies in the UK: view at Crocus

Holly shrubs and trees: key facts

• Plant type: Evergreen and deciduous shrubs and small trees
• Mature size: 6-30ft (2-9m)
• Soil type: Any reasonable soil that is neither parched nor waterlogged
• Soil pH: Slightly acid, neutral, or slightly alkaline
• Time to plant: Spring or fall
• Flowering time: Spring or early summer
• Flower color: Greenish yellow or white
• Fruit color: Red, orange, yellow, white, or black
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z3-9 (UK H5-7)
• Scientific name: Ilex
• Common name: Holly

Types of hollies

There are a few key varieties of holly to consider for your backyard.

• American holly (Ilex opaca): Native in the east and south, from New York south to Texas and Florida, this small olive-colored evergreen makes an attractive tree with red winter berries.
• English holly (Ilex aquifolium): 'English holly is a better ornamental tree than American holly (Ilex opaca),' say the experts at the Missouri Botanic Garden, 'but it has less winter hardiness and is more difficult to grow in the lower Midwest and deep South… Foliage and fruit provide good color for the winter landscape.' Most have spiny leaves. The Highclere holly (Ilex x altaclerensis) is similar.
• Winterberry (Ilex verticillata): 'Heavy berry production for brilliant winter color. Winterberry produces copious amounts of bright red berries that really shine in the fall and winter landscape,' say the experts at Proven Winners. It is native to the northeast, Midwest and south from Quebec to Texas.
• Japanese holly (Ilex crenata): A slow-growing, very small-leaved evergreen with black berries and, often, prettily patterned foliage. Excellent as a low hedging plant, and also for small topiary. 'The Japanese holly and several of its many cultivars are amongst our most useful evergreen shrubs,' says Louise and James Bush-Brown in their classic America’s Garden Book.
• Blue holly (Ilex x meservae): A little like a more compact, winter-hardy version of an English holly with dark, blue-tinted, evergreen leaves and red winter berries. Most are spiny.
• Chinese holly (Ilex cornuta): This very tough evergreen carries a profusion of glistening red berries. Michael Dirr says in Dirr’s Trees and Shrubs for Warm Climates: '…for hot dry areas of the country, this evergreen large shrub would rank in the top five safe choices.'

If you are looking for a particularly striking shrub with berries, the deciduous winterberry, with scarlet or gold berries, shows its prolific crop best. Black-berried evergreen Japanese holly is the least effective while the mix of patterned foliage and red or yellow berries is a feature of English holly, Highclere holly and American holly.

The berries of all hollies are distasteful to birds as they first ripen, but lose the unpleasant taste as the weeks go by – so they last unusually well.

If you want a variety with interesting foliage, deciduous winterberry's leaves turn yellow in fall. And there are many variegated varieties of evergreen English holly and the closely related, but more vigorous, Highclere holly. The leaves may be edged or splashed in shades of white, cream or bright yellow for all-year-round color. With the bright winter berries, they make a splendid sight. Blue-leaved hollies have a blue tinge to the leaves, while some Japanese hollies are olive-tinted or grayish and may be prettily tinted in red in spring.

If you want to create structural impact with your planting pick, a large English holly or Highclere holly in fruit in the fall and winter is a dramatic sight. However, these evergreens do not thrive across the whole country. In warm, challenging climates try ‘Nellie R. Stevens’.

Where to plant hollies

Hollies fall into two groups, and each has different qualities and different needs. 

The evergreen hollies – including the European native English holly and similar plants – prefer milder conditions. They are hardy to USDA Z6-9 (UK H6) and dislike extremes of heat and cold. This group is happy in limey and neutral conditions, and in slightly acid conditions with a good depth of soil.

The other group of both deciduous and evergreen hollies, including the American native deciduous winterberry, is much hardier, USDA Z3-9 (UK H7), and much more tolerant of both summer heat and winter cold. This group tends to be happiest in acid soil types.

In general, most hollies will grow in most conditions but both groups hate waterlogged soil. The lesson from this is that there are hollies for most parts of the country and for most garden situations.

How to plant hollies

Hollies are best planted in early to late fall, although in colder areas it often pays to wait until early spring when the soil has first thawed. In mild areas, planting can continue until late spring but it is important to take special care to ensure the roots do not dry out.

Prepare the ground thoroughly, but be sure not to dig your planting hole and then replace all the garden soil with soil improver, garden compost or potting mix. Instead, mix the existing garden soil with no more than 50% compost.

Soak the roots of your new holly thoroughly before planting, and plant so that the soil in the container is level with the surrounding garden soil. Then mulch with 2in (5cm) of bark or other weed-free organic material. Taller growing varieties, especially evergreens, will need secure support – make sure a stake is in place when planting. Irrigate thoroughly.

Holly care tips

The two most important items of holly aftercare are to prevent the roots of your new holly from drying out – especially in its first year after planting – and to ensure that larger growing evergreen hollies remain secured to their stakes and are well supported. Check, too, that the holly branches do not rub against each other.

Mulching not only helps ensure that the rooting area retains moisture but also inhibits weed growth. All hollies benefit from annual feeding in spring and Holly-tone, available on Amazon, or another shrub fertilizer intended for lime-hating plants is ideal.

Hollies can be clipped into a hedge or formal shape. Or, you can allow them to grow informally, in which case pruning hollies will be to improve the shape of the plant and is best done in summer.

Overgrown hollies can be cut back hard in spring, but it is crucial that the plants do not dry out in their first season after this severe treatment otherwise growth will be poor.

Hollies in containers should never be allowed to dry out and should be fed regularly during the growing season.

How to make more hollies

If your holly delights you with fall fruits then, after they have been eaten by birds and excreted, holly seedlings will usually pop up around the garden. These can be transplanted to a more convenient place to develop and then moved to an appropriate site.

Be aware, however, that your new seedling plants may not turn out to be exactly the same as the plant from which the berry came.

The other way to propagate hollies is to take cuttings:

1. Both deciduous and evergreen hollies can be propagated using 4-6in (10-15cm) cuttings. Take cuttings of evergreens in mid-late summer, and deciduous varieties in early summer.
2. Tidy the cuttings by snipping just below the lowest leaves, then snip off the leaves from the lower half of the cutting.
3. Dip the base of each cutting in rooting gel or rooting powder (available on Amazon), and gently push into 5-6in (12-15cm) diameter pots of seed starting mix up to the lower leaves.
4. Water well and place in a propagator in a cool, bright place. Keep moist, then move the cuttings into individual pots when roots emerge from the base of the pot.

Solving problems with hollies

Hollies are troubled by few serious pests or diseases and, as in so many cases, well-grown plants suffer far less than those planted in unsuitable situations and not looked after.

Many hollies are not deer-resistant plants, so fence protection or a deterrent will be necessary if deer are seen in your area. Rabbits, gophers and other critters can also cause problems eating shoots and stems. Regulations covering how to deal with such creatures may vary from state to state. Leaf miners are tiny caterpillars that tunnel just under the leaf surface creating a network of small disfiguring tunnels: these create more blemish than harm.

Leaf blotches and mildews rarely pose serious problems and are more damaging on plants that are growing poorly and generally unhealthy. Holly blight, however, can be more serious, especially in damp climates, as the lower leaves turn black and drop off. Prevention is the only cure. Check over holly plants before buying and, if the problem arises later, clear away and burn all fallen leaves and remove the mulch as it may harbor disease spores.

Are there any evergreen hollies without spines?

Firstly, if you look at a mature English holly you will often find that the lower branches carry spiny leaves but, higher up and out of the reach of browsing animals, the leaves lose their spines.

Many hollies have leaves with small teeth, far from the vicious spines of some, but there are also a few evergreen holly varieties that have few or no spines – thus better choices for child-friendly gardens (just ensure they don't eat the toxic berries). The outstanding example is ‘J. C. van Tol’. This is an English holly that rarely has any spines on its foliage. ‘Camelliifolia’ is similar.

Are there any hollies that produce berries without a male plant nearby?

Yes, one variety in particular: ‘J. C. van Tol’, is well known, and widely grown, for its ability to produce a generous crop of red berries without a male plant nearby. As mentioned above, the leaves are also almost entirely spine-free, making it an ideal garden variety, although it is strong growing and can reach 16.5ft (5m) in height.

There is also a variegated version, ‘Golden van Tol’, with golden margins to its dark green leaves.

Can you grow a holly in a container?

Yes, hollies grow well as part of a container garden, and make attractive specimens for the deck or patio. But, there are some important points to remember. Firstly, it is not wise to plant spiny varieties where people, especially children, often pass by. 

Secondly, a holly in a prominent position needs to provide value all year round so a variegated evergreen is ideal. Avoid vigorous varieties and prevent waterlogging by standing the pots on pot feet to ensure good drainage.

Varieties of Japanese holly (Ilex crenata) are ideal. ‘Drops of Gold’ has vivid gold shoot tips, ‘Golden Gem’ has yellow-splashed leaves on red stems, ‘Fastigiata’ and ‘Sky Pencil’ have tall and very slender growth, while the rounded growth of ‘Soft Touch’ is similar to boxwood.

Are any hollies deer resistant?

A few hollies are rated as 'Rarely Damaged', the highest category of deer resistance, as assessed by The New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station. They gather research from a wide range of horticultural experts and rate plants in four categories from 'Rarely Damaged' to 'Frequently Severely Damaged'.

The American holly is rated as 'Rarely Damaged'. More, including Chinese holly, English holly and Winterberry holly fall into the 'Seldom Severely Damaged' category. 

Blue holly and Japanese holly fall into the more worrying 'Occasionally Severely Damaged' but none are categorized as 'Frequently Severely Damaged'.

How to buy holly plants

Both evergreen and deciduous hollies are offered by retailers in the fall, showing off their sparkling, jewel-like fruits. These will be female plants – if there are no male plants offered alongside, shop somewhere else as they clearly know nothing about hollies! Check the tags of any holly plants on display that have no berries and it should be stated that they are male.

Variegated evergreen hollies are often presented all year as they are always very colorful. Plants with variegated leaves and red berries are especially attractive but beware of the spines, which are often very sharp.

Hollies are sold in walk-in nurseries in containers, or balled-and-burlapped with plenty of soil on the roots. If they are offered bare root (with the soil shaken off the roots) leave them in the nursery.

Mail order, plants are available in sizes from tubes to five-gallon pots, sometimes larger, although the larger sizes are not only more expensive but also more costly to ship.

If you learn how to clean garden tools properly before putting them away, they'll be ready for use the next time you need them. Plus, you'll help them last longer.

It can be tempting to finish your yard work and put your garden tools back in the shed immediately. But, it doesn't take long to give everything from your garden shears to your secateurs a quick spruce – and a bit of oiling, if you have the time. You'll be thankful you did, next time you need to tick off a job in your garden – whether that's pruning, digging, or planting.

How to clean garden tools: a step-by-step guide

Cleaning tools isn't just about keeping them in good condition. It's also important for the health of your plants.

'Sterilizing your garden tools is vital if you want to make sure your plants stay healthy,' says Rian Habergham, a gardening and outdoors expert at Leisure Bench. 'It's especially important if you currently have one or more infected plants, as just one use of a contaminated gardening tool on a healthy plant can spread this infection further.'

To properly clean and sterilize your garden tools, Rian suggests the following: 

1. Use a brush to clean off any caked-on dirt and mud from your tools.
2. Then, give them a good clean with warm soapy water and a sponge.
3. Soaking metal tools, or the metal parts of tools, in 70% to 100% isopropyl alcohol will sterilize them. If you have wipes (available on Amazon) instead of liquid, these work just as well. Be careful not to get the alcohol on any wooden handles if you don't want to stain or spoil the finish. Also, bear in mind that isopropyl alcohol gives off a heavy scent and is highly flammable. Always use it outside, away from open flames, making sure you use protective clothing and gloves. White vinegar can also be used, either at full strength or diluted with water at a ratio of 50:50.
4. If you've soaked your tools to sanitize them, be sure to rinse them afterwards and then dry them with a cloth before storage.

Should you oil garden tools?

Although cleaning rusty tools is possible, it's easier to prevent it from happening in the first place.

Paul McFadyen, metals specialist and Chief Executive at metals4U comments, 'Garden tools, such as trowels, spades, and rakes, are usually made out of metals such as steel and iron which are prone to rust. This can happen naturally over time if your tools are exposed to the elements – for example, leaving them out in the rain, or even worse, leaving soil on the tools which can trap moisture.'

By cleaning and then oiling the tools, you will help to protect them from rust. Doing so also reduces friction when using tools such as pruners.

You can oil wooden handles to protect them, too, as Rian explains.

1. First, wash the tools in hot soapy water. Use a brush or sponge on the wooden handles to get rid of any dirt.
2. If you find any splinters or rough edges on the wood, sand these down to make sure that they can't cause injury or damage the tool.
3. Once the wood on the tools is completely dry, coat them with a light layer of oil to ensure that they don't become brittle. This also helps them to stay clear of excess moisture and dirt when being used. Linseed oil, available from Amazon is recommended for this, as it dries nice and quickly and covers well.
4. You can also coat the rest of the tool with oil to prevent rust spots, rubbing it on with an old cloth.

More tips for garden tool care

As well as learning how to clean garden tools, don't forget about the other aspects of maintenance. These include sharpening blades and storing all your tools properly. 

Doing all of this is particularly important if you're planning on storing your tools away for an extended period of time – often the case in winter. For instance, Paul Hicks from STIHL says that when winterizing lawn mowers, hedge trimmers, and grass strimmers, any dirt and debris gathered throughout the spring and summer should be removed. 'We also recommend sharpening the cutting attachment, such as the saw chain, before putting these tools away,' he adds.

Sharpening garden shears is also a crucial part of maintenance. 'These work better with your plants and make gardening easier and more successful when they're sharp. Blunt tools are more likely to cause accidents and could eventually damage your plants,' Rian says. Whether you're using designated sharpeners, files, or sandpaper, remember that the angle at which you sharpen is vital: always follow the manufacturer's recommendations.

Once clean, it's important to store your garden tools properly so they're kept in the best condition until their next use. Your garden tool storage solution should always be somewhere waterproof, such as a shed or outhouse.

Paul explains that petrol and battery-powered tools have particular requirements, for instance, a pressure washer should be completely drained of water before it is stored away. This will help prevent any damage that could occur due to water freezing inside the machine. 

'For petrol tools, it is best to store them without any fuel and with the fuel cap safely secured, and for any cordless tools where the battery can be removed, it is always advisable to remove the battery and store it at room temperature in a damp-free location,' Paul says. 'This is because cold weather can cause damage to the battery and make it unusable. Also, make sure the batteries have between 40 and 60% charge when left in storage.'

Silver maple is a delight, with its green leaves with their pale gray undersides shimmering gently when lifted by the wind. Its easily-recognisable, deeply-lobed foliage, which bears a close resemblance to the Canadian flag, turns to fiery shades of yellow and red during fall, bringing a vibrant glow to its surroundings.

This backyard tree has a distinctive trunk that branches into a broad crown. Its bark is smooth and light gray to brown in color when young, going on to develop shaggy-looking loose thin plates that become darker with age.

In the US, silver maples produce inconspicuous green-yellow male or red female flowers in early spring, before the appearance of their leaves, providing an early source of nectar for bees. Elsewhere, their blooms can be enjoyed if the weather conditions are warm enough. Winged seeds appear in North America in around late April or May time, but are not so common in the UK and cooler parts of Europe.

Known scientifically as Acer saccharinum, the native environment of this tree is southern Canada and the eastern United States, where it’s often found on flood plains, along waterways, or in woodlands. Commercially, it’s sold for soft timber, although, according to dendrologist Rosie Anderson of the nationally-important Westonbirt Arboretum in Gloucestershire, UK, it’s not considered high quality.

The silver maple has been grown in Europe since the 18th Century and was brought to the UK by Sir Charles Wagner in 1725. The organization Forest Research believes this acer has the potential to assist with climate warming in lowland areas of the UK due to its ability to grow in wet conditions and poorer soils.

Silver maple key facts:

• Plant type: Specimen tree
• Mature size: 65-80ft (20-25m) usually, but can reach 115ft (35m) 
• Soil type: All types; does well in damper soil but will adapt to drier conditions
• Soil pH: 4.5 to 7 recommended
• Time of year to plant: Ideally over fall or winter, if the ground isn't frozen
• Flowering time of year: Early spring
• Flower color: Green male flowers and red female flowers
• Leaf color in spring: Green with pale gray/silver underside
• Leaf color in fall: Yellow and red
• Hardiness zones: USDA Zone 3-9 (UK H7)
• Scientific name: Acer saccharinum
• Common names: Silver maple, silverleaf maple, river maple, swamp maple, water maple, white maple, soft maple

Growth rates for silver maple trees

Silver maple grows quickly when young, reaching its ultimate height after 10 to 20 years and then slowing, and it’s been found to tolerate pollution well. It’s a popular choice for areas of new housing in the US. 

Generally, silver maple will reach between 65 and 80ft (20 to 25m), with canopies extending to more than 26ft (eight meters). The tallest recorded specimen in the UK stands at around 100ft (30m) on Willesley Drive at Westonbirt Arboretum. In North America, the honors go to a 116ft (35m) monster in Newberry, Michigan. Usually, these trees live to between 100 and 130 years.

'Silver maple is a fast-growing tree; it establishes well and is very elegant in its branch structure; and it has a lovely interesting leaf, from which it gets its name,' says Kew Gardens’ Head of Trees Kevin Martin.

'The foliage is delightful during a breeze or when ruffled by the wind, exposing the silvery-white coloration on the underside of the five-lobed foliage,' adds David Jewell, curator of the Sir Harold Hillier Gardens in Hampshire.

Kevin agrees: 'There’s one growing along the Kew Road that I check regularly and it’s amazing to watch. All the leaf-bearing branches are very slim, which is why the foliage moves so much in the wind, producing a wonderful fluttering effect.'

• Shop silver maple trees in the US: view at Fast Growing Trees
• Shop silver maple trees in the UK: view at Ashbridge Nurseries

Types of silver maple

Consider these varieties of silver maple when choosing a tree for your backyard:

• A. saccharinum ‘Pyramidale’, sometimes known as ‘Fastigiatum’, has a column-like structure when young, but becomes round or oval-shaped as it matures. The base of its crown is formed by a small number of heavy, upright branches. It grows to around 66ft (20 meters) tall and its canopy is around half as wide as its height. Unfurling leaves in spring have blue-red tints before turning green. In fall, the foliage turns yellow. This cultivar is less prone to breaking branches. Kevin Martin of Kew Gardens says it’s a good choice for avenue planting.
• A. saccharinum f. laciniatum ‘Laciniatum Wieri’ has lower branches that hang down and its leaves have sharply-cut narrow lobes. The foliage has bronze tints in the spring and is yellow during fall. This cultivar grows to around 66ft (20 meters).
• A. saccharinum ‘Lutescens’ has orange-yellow leaves when young, which mature to soft yellow-green over summer.
• A. saccharinum ‘Pendulum’ is an unusual form with more ‘pendant’, or hanging, branches. 
• A. saccharinum ‘Born’s Gracious’ is a new cultivar from Germany with divided, filigree-like maple leaves. It grows to around 66ft (20m).

How to use silver maple trees in your yard

Silver maple trees are a great choice for woodland gardens, for introducing shade to a large yard, or for planting on especially wide verges that are far enough from roadsides should branches break off. This tree is also suited to wet areas. 

Be mindful of prevailing winds, which can have a detrimental effect; plant them a good distance away from a property to avoid damage from falling branches, or even toppling trees – although in most cases silver maples thrive for 130 years or more. 

It’s also important to be aware that the strongly-branching shallow roots of Acer saccharinum are capable of pushing up hard surfaces, so keep them well away from your patio, deck or driveway.

When, where and how to plant silver maples

Plant these trees in a sheltered spot in full sunshine for good fall color, or in partial shade. 'Ideally, plant it where its color can be seen to its full effect, but make sure it won’t be in the teeth of a gale,' advises Ed Landford of Landford Trees in Wiltshire, UK.

This tree grows in all types of soils and does well in areas with plenty of moisture, something that those gardening in drier areas should bear in mind. For best results, plant dormant, young bare root trees during the late fall and winter months, as long as the ground is not frozen, so that they receive plenty of moisture while they’re becoming established. Prepare the soil before planting by loosening it up, before making a hole that’s large enough to accommodate the root ball. Replace the soil, firm it down and water well. In especially exposed conditions, this tree may benefit from staking while it’s becoming established. Deer fencing may also be advantageous.

Smaller trees are cheaper to buy, easier to handle and will cope better if there’s little in the way of aftercare. Larger trees will create more of an impact and will grow well if watered regularly while they’re getting established.

Silver maple care tips

Water regularly after trees are first planted and mulch with well-rotted garden compost to help the soil retain moisture. 

These trees don’t need a huge amount of attention in terms of maintenance. Their well-branched framework needs little pruning. Generally all that’s needed is for diseased, damaged, congested, or crossing branches, or branches growing in the wrong direction, to be removed in late winter or early spring. Harder pruning can spoil a tree.

This tree is a prolific self-seeder in the US, although rarely produces seed in the UK due to the nature of its climate. Remove any seedlings growing close by when they're young, to avoid competition for moisture and nutrients.

How to make more silver maple trees

Silver maples can be grown from seed, although be careful to gather these winged nutlets, or samara, from spots where there are no red maples (Acer rubrum). This is because the two can cross-pollinate, resulting in a hybrid known as the freeman maple Acer x freemanii. 

The easiest way to sow silver maples is to push the ‘nut’ end of the winged seed into a pot of general-purpose compost or garden soil. To increase the chances for success, remove the wing and the outer skin to reveal the embryo, place side-down about half an inch (1cm) in the compost, and cover. Examine each seed and reject any that appear dry and wrinkled – instead, look for those that are green and fresh-looking. Pots can be placed in a greenhouse or in a sheltered spot outside. Viable seeds should germinate within days, if not a couple of weeks.

It’s also possible to take softwood plant cuttings in the summer and hardwood in winter, ideally from younger trees. Dip cuttings in rooting hormone powder [available on Amazon], place them into moist soil, and cover with a plastic bag to increase humidity. 

Common problems with silver maples

In the US and Canada, the silver maple is vulnerable to sapstreak disease, caused by the fungus Ceratocystis virescens, which is fatal to infected trees. The UK organization Forest Research says this pathogen is not present in Europe. 

All maples are susceptible to verticillium wilt, a vascular disease that causes leaves to wilt, go brown and drop, and which can cause the sudden death of the tree.

Common foliage diseases in the US include gray mold spot, tar spots and powdery mildew.

Sap-sucking aphids will sometimes attack buds and the undersides of leaves. Horse chestnut scale, identified as white egg masses on trunks and branches, can sometimes be seen but doesn’t cause serious damage.

Choosing between annual vs perennial plants may have you confused. These words are often thrown around in gardening, but knowing what they actually mean is super useful when deciding what to grow, especially if you're planning a new planting scheme.

Basically, it's all about the length of their life cycle – some plants are long-lived, and some are not. So, whether you want flowers, shrubs, or trees in your garden border, knowing whether they're perennials or annuals will help you know what to expect.

What is a perennial plant?

Perennials can be trees, shrubs, climbers, or border plants, explains the experts from Amateur Gardening magazine.

Unlike annuals, they continue to grow year after year, provided they're given the right care. This makes them stalwart plants when planning a flower bed, and they should be planted with plenty of space around them to accommodate their growth.

If the plants you have in mind are not evergreen, the stems will die back in winter to crown buds an inch or so above the soil surface, the Amateur Gardening team explains. These are known as herbaceous perennials. 'In spring, when the temperature rises, buds that have been dormant over winter will spring into growth.

'The only time you need to divide a perennial and replant vigorous outer portions is when the center of the plant weakens and dies,' they continue. This is usually done in spring or fall. The exception is if your plant is simply too big for its space, in which case it can be split into more manageable-sized sections and replanted.

Common examples of perennials include roses, lavender, and many spring bulbs, but there are lots more. There are perennials for every garden situation, as long as you take their individual needs, such as preferred soil type, into account. While some need some attention – feeding, pruning and the like – to keep them looking their best, there are many low-maintenance plants that can be more or less left to their own devices once established.

John Negus, an expert from Amateur Gardening, suggests low-maintenance shrubs for easy-care borders, most of which can be planted relatively cheaply as bare roots. 'You can get a mix of attractive features to give interest all year round ­– think evergreen foliage, spring color, flowers, fruits and autumn color,' he says.

While annuals generally prefer full sun, a wide selection of perennials are shade-loving plants, or will at least thrive in dappled light. Carpeting perennials, such as blue-flowering Ajuga reptans ‘Caitlin’s Giant’ can be valuable for filling tricky spots. Dicentra formosa, which has dangling, heart-shaped lockets in spring and early summer, is another good pick for shadier areas.

Other top perennial picks from the experts:

When should you plant perennials?

According to the RHS, container-grown perennials are best planted in spring or fall, when the ground is warm and moist. Avoid planting in freezing conditions, or if the soil is waterlogged. Watering the plants regularly will help them establish.

Planting bare root plants should be done as soon as you get them – this is usually in fall or winter, adds the RHS.

What is an annual plant?

Annuals are short-lived plants, completing their entire life cycle in just one year. But that's no reason to dismiss them from your backyard plans. They are valuable for bringing a splash of color to flower beds, filling in gaps between perennials, and attracting wildlife to your garden.

There are both hardy and half-hardy annuals available, all of which bloom from mid to late summer. They are lovely cutting garden flowers, and can even be grown to provide posies for special occasions. 'Some choice plants are agrostemma, Anchusa capensis, calendula, Centaurea cyanus, Linum grandiflorum, nigella and Scabiosa atropurpurea,' says John.

As they can easily be grown from seed, they are a budget-friendly way to bring blooms into a garden. In fact, with most varieties, you can collect seeds from the flowers to sow for new blooms the following year.

'Before sowing hardy annual seeds, cover the ground with black plastic to warm the soil,' John advises. Sow seeds thinly in rows 6-8in (15-20cm) apart in well-prepared soil in late spring, and thin seedlings to 5in (13cm) apart.

Sow your half hardy seeds under gentle heat in early spring, John continues. 'Prick out seedlings and harden them off for transplanting outdoors after the frosts,' he says. Alternatively, you can buy plants from the garden center in late spring or early summer and set them outside – as long as all risks of frosts have passed.

They are generally low maintenance once they're in the ground, apart from needing a spot of watering during dry spells. Some, such as sweet peas and sunflowers, require stakes for support.

More top annual picks from the experts:

Annuals vs perennials: which is best for your garden?

Trying to choose the winner when it comes to annual vs perennial plants is an impossible task – both types of plants are valuable and have different uses in the garden.

Annuals are cheap and cheerful, easy to look after once they've got going, and give you the flexibility to switch up your flower bed ideas year after year. From floaty cosmos and scented sweet peas to fiery nasturtiums and meadow flowers, they definitely give the summer garden an extra dose of personality and color.

The longevity of perennials means they are generally more expensive, and some plants require maintenance and protection from frost. However, they're essential in providing the bones of the garden – from structural shrubs to flowering favorites such as roses, salvias, and lavender. 

If you're trying to stick to a budget, build up your perennial collection over time. There are also some clever ways to reduce costs, for instance, by taking cuttings from plants.

Wondering why your peace lily is drooping and not showing any signs of improving? Drooping leaves on a peace lily are a common problem that can have several causes. It can take a bit of detective work on your part to figure out why exactly your peace lily suddenly looks like it's wilting, but once you've worked out the problem it can normally be easy to resolve. 

Although the peace lily is considered to be low-maintenance, even this easy-care plant will begin to suffer if the conditions aren't right for it. We've asked houseplant experts to identify the most common reasons for a peace lily to be drooping and the best solutions to help it improve. 

5 reasons your peace lily might be drooping

Learn to spot the signs for why your peace lily is drooping and you can quickly nurse your indoor plant back to health. 

1. Your peace lily is underwatered

This is by far the most common cause of a peace lily drooping. Peace lilies like their soil to stay moist, so make sure you don't leave it too long between waterings. Jamie Saechaona, plant and gardening expert at Green Garden Cottage, advises that even if your peace lily has really dried out, it 'should perk up with a deep soak'. 

Once you've revived the plant, 'make sure the soil is kept moist but not soaking wet. As a general rule, water your peace lily once a week (this will vary depending on climate and season). Let the soil dry out between each soak.'

A top peace lily watering tip is to avoid using water straight from the tap as it can contain fluoride, which can have an impact on the plant. 

2. It's overwatered

On the other hand, peace lilies are stressed by soggy soil and eventually will begin drooping when consistently overwatered. Jamie Saechaona explains that the key sign of an overwatered peace lily is that 'the leaves will wilt, turn yellow and begin to fall off.' 

So if your peace lily is turning yellow and drooping rather than having green, droopy leaves, it will usually mean that you're watering your plant too much. 

Saechaona recommends 'making sure your peace lily is in a large enough container and has proper drainage'. This 'can help prevent the plant from becoming waterlogged.'

Make sure the plant pot (which can be bought on Amazon) has a drainage hole.

3. Inconsistent temperature

Although peace lilies are generally considered low maintenance indoor plants, it's worth bearing in mind that they are tropical plants and dislike large temperature fluctuations. 

'Keep the plant at a steady indoor temperature range of 68-70˚F (20-21˚C) degrees,' advises Jamie Saechao. 'And move it away from windows that give off extreme cold and heat during seasonal changes.'

Make sure you keep your peace lily away from drafts, too. 

4. Not enough humidity

Peace lilies also dislike excessively dry air. Karen Musgrave of Hicks Nurseries recommends you try to keep them in a room 'with about 50-60% humidity.' This means they are good bathroom plants. 

If the room where you keep your plants is significantly under this range, for example, because you keep central heating on, it's worth investing in a humidifier for plants (available from Amazon). It's a much better solution to a room that's overly dry than misting the peace lily. Misting won't make enough of a difference in a dry room. 

5. Incorrect light levels

Finally, peace lilies sometimes droop when they get too much bright sunlight or not enough light. John Dave, an arborist and plant expert from Agro Fever, says that 'Peace lilies typically prefer bright, indirect light. They can tolerate some direct sun,
but too much sun will cause the leaves to scorch. If your plant is in too much sun, move it to a shadier spot. If it needs more light, try moving it closer to a window.'

How long do peace lilies take to perk up?

If your peace lily is drooping, don't worry. So long as you identify the cause correctly and take the necessary steps to remedy it, your peace lily should get back to its healthy self within a week or two. 

A peace lily that is still drooping after two weeks is likely past saving, sadly. If nothing is working, you can still try and repot your peace lily to see if that makes a difference. 

Red oak, sometimes known as the Northern red oak (Quercus rubra), is a classic American tree. Native from Quebec and Minnesota in the north to Alabama and Arkansas in the south, it is not found west of Kansas and Oklahoma. Red oak is the state tree of New Jersey.

Joseph S. Illick, a pioneer in the new profession of forestry in the early 1900s, and Pennsylvania’s Chief Forester, described the red oak as 'one of the biggest, stateliest, and handsomest trees of eastern North America.'

This deciduous fast growing tree is long lived, deep rooted and adaptable, reaching 50-70ft (15-22m) in height, often reaching 20ft (6m) after ten years and developing a more or less pyramid shaped crown up to 45ft (13m) across. The leaves feature from seven to 11 sharply pointed lobes with bristled tips and are dull dark green above and bluish-green underneath. 

Northern red oak also has unique bark – ridged vertically down to the ground, with shiny stripes between.

In spring, yellowish-green, tassel-like catkins hang from the branches although in some people the pollen produces an allergic reaction. In mature trees the catkins are followed, two years later, in the fall, by acorns which are a valuable food for squirrels, chipmunks, deer, wild turkeys and bluejays. Many birds find the acorns unpalatable when fresh, so they bury them and return for them when the distasteful tannins have lost their strength.

Red oak tree: key features

• Plant type: deciduous tree
• Mature size: 50-70ft
• Soil type: most except waterlogged or parched
• Soil pH: acid
• Best time to plant: fall, early spring
• Flowering time: mid to late spring
• Flower color: yellowish green
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z4
• Scientific name: Quercus rubra
• Common name: Red oak

Special features of red oaks

• Foliage color Some types of oak are evergreen trees but most, including the red oak, are deciduous. The upper surfaces of its jagged leaves are a dark, dull green while the undersides are slightly silvery in color and are look pretty when ruffled by the breeze. In fall, as winter approaches, it becomes a wonderful tree with red leaves as the foliage develops scarlet or orange or yellow tones, or a mixture of them all, creating a spectacular fiery display.
• Shade providers Red oaks are invaluable for providing welcome shade in areas with hot summers. Also, their roots grow more deeply than those of many trees so landscaping around trees with plants that will thrive in the shade is less of a problem. Plant a red oak to provide a shaded summer sitting area, to shade the house from scorching summer sun and to provide shade for the huge palate of shade loving plants. 
• Adaptability Red oaks have an unexpected ability to thrive in a wide range of soil types and situations. They are especially useful in suburban areas as they tolerate the poor and compacted soils sometimes found in new subdivisions. They also tolerate salt so thrive by the sea and when salty runoff from roads may reach their roots after a snowy winter. But they dislike lime.

Where to plant red oak trees

Red oak is 'widely considered a national treasure,' say the Arbor Day Foundation. 'It is valued for its versatility and hardiness in urban settings.'

Where there is space, red oaks can be planted as part of a forest or wood, with other native trees and shrubs. On a smaller scale, a small mixed planting of red oaks, maples, and native shrubs can bring the wilds closer to home.

As a backyard tree, a red oak makes a superb shade tree – particularly as it grows so quickly and its roots do not compete seriously with nearby plants.

Choose an open situation in full sun or with a few hours of shade each day. It is important to think ahead: this is a strong-growing tree that could eventually reach 75ft (23m) in height so, if you are planting a red oak as a specimen shade tree, allow for this and chose the site carefully. 

When and how to plant red oak trees

Late fall and early winter are the best times to plant red oaks. However, trees can be planted through the winter until early spring in areas where the ground is not frozen. Keep in mind that when planting bare root trees or seedlings, as well as more mature bare root plants, that they are best planted within three days of their arrival.

Red oaks are adaptable so will thrive in a variety of soils that are neither parched nor waterlogged but they are long lived trees so it pays to give them a good start.

The size of the planting hole depends on the size of the tree being planted. Seedling trees are often planted with no preparation at all: make a hole with a trowel, drop in the seedling and firm with your boot. 

For larger specimens, dig a hole at least twice the diameter of the pot or root system, mix the soil from the hole 50:50 with planting mix or garden compost and use this to fill the hole and cover the roots. Taller specimens should be supported with a stake tied about 2ft (60cm) above the ground. Water well, before mulching with weed-free organic matter.

How to care for red oak trees

Red oaks are fairly low maintenance trees as they need relatively little long term care. Ensure that the roots do not dry out in the first few years after planting, renewing the mulch when necessary will help with this. Check that supports remain in place, and doing their job, and renew them if necessary. After about five years, if your oak is growing well, the support can be removed.

Renew the mulch every year or two, when necessary. Fertilizing annually in early spring may not be necessary but on poor soils an annual treatment with Tree-tone or another specific tree fertilizer will help.

Pruning will not usually be necessary unless a branch is damaged, in which case cut off the damaged growth, using a pruning saw to cut just above a junction with a healthy branch. If branches are rubbing against each other, cut out the thinner branch. As your tree develops and matures it will usually need little or no attention – except raking the leaves.

Making more red oaks

Growing red oaks from acorns is easy, but you will probably have to collect acorns from underneath a tree in a neighboring yard as red oaks may not start producing acorns until they are 40 years old.

Fill a 3-4in (7.5-10cm) flower pot with potting mix, level off, tap the pot on the table to settle the mix. Make a hole in the middle of the compost and drop in an acorn. The top of the acorn should be an inch below the surface. Top up with potting mix, water well, and stand outside in a cool and sheltered place. Protect your acorns from birds, squirrels and other critters using fine wire mesh.

Ensure that your pots of acorns never dry out, a shoot should emerge the following spring and in the fall your young oak can be planted.

Red oak problems and how to solve them

If red oaks are growing well, significant problems rarely arise. As ever, prevention – in the form of giving your tree a good start and looking after it as it matures – is the best cure.

However, caterpillars, scale insects and borers sometimes cause problems but can usually be dealt with using an organic pesticide. You may also find evidence of diseases such as mildew, anthracnose, wilt and canker.

The best guidance will be provided by your local extension service where they have the best local expertise in dealing with oak problems.

Red oak diseases

Oak wilt is a serious disease of oak trees, and red oaks suffer more widely and die more quickly than other oaks. Oak wilt was first seen in in Mississippi in the 1940s but has spread throughout the Midwestern and Eastern United States and continues to spread.

The Forest Service explains: On red oak…'symptoms are often expressed in spring but can continue into the summer. Symptoms start from the tip and outer edges of leaves and move toward the midrib and base of leaves, often with a distinct margin. First, leaves turn dull green or bronze, can appear water-soaked, and wilt. Later, the leaves turn yellow and/or brown, curl around the midrib, and are shed at branch tips. Finally, both green and symptomatic leaves throughout the crown fall. Symptoms often develop quickly throughout the crown in red oak. Trees may die only one or two months after symptoms appear and seldom survive more than a year.'

Prevention is the only cure. The most frequent origin of an infection is when infected logs brought into an area from another part of the state, or the country. This is why logs brought from outside the area are not allowed on campsites.

There is no treatment, infected trees should be felled and removed. Your local extension service can give advice.

What is the difference between a red oak and a white oak? 

Red oak (Quercus rubra) owes its name to the reddish coloring of its wood, while white oak (Quercus alba) owes its name to the whitish undersides of its leaves. The leaves of red oaks also tend to have pointed tips to the lobes of their leaves, white oak leaf lobes have rounded tips. Red oaks also usually have less heavily ridged bark than white oaks.

White oak wood is more water resistant than the wood of red oaks when used in construction, while white oak is also more dense and burns hotter and more slowly than red oak and with less smoke.

Is the red oak good for wildlife?

The National Wildlife Federation tells us: 'We all know that from tiny acorns mighty oak trees grow, but we should add that from tiny acorns also grow deer, gray squirrels, red squirrels, chipmunks, wild turkeys, crows, flying squirrels, rabbits, opossums, blue jays, quail, raccoons, wood ducks – more than 100 U.S. vertebrate species eat acorns. In autumn and winter, the acorn is the cheeseburger of the forest ecosystem – fairly easy to find and nicely packaged. They are one of the most valuable food resources available for wildlife.'

How fast do red oak trees grow? 

The red oak is fast growing so is not a good tree for small gardens. It will often grow 2ft (60cm) per year during its first 10 years and, although growth will then usually slow, at its full height a tree may well reach 75ft. A few trees planted in the 1970s and even the 1980s have reached more than 100ft (30m) in height!

So while its rapid early growth will often provide you with a good sized specimen that quickly makes an impact, be aware that a red oak can become too large for many backyards. As always, when it comes to choosing a tree for your garden, it pays to think first, plant later.

How long do red oak trees live? 

It is said that a red oak tree can live for 500 years. A small number of trees are over 300 years old, and a tree in Toronto is over 250 years old. But red oak trees tend to decline in vigor and health once they pass the age of a 150 years. 

How to buy red oak trees

Red oak trees are available across the country, in areas with a suitable climate. They are popular in Arbor Day promotions organized by the Arbor Day Foundation, the non-profit organization that has been encouraging tree planting for more than 50 years.

Small plants, some only 12in (30cm) high, are often available in local fall planting promotions, for example, but need careful attention – and especially protection from deer – in their early years.

Garden centers and local nurseries will also usually carry red oak, especially around fall planting time. Buy the largest tree that your budget allows, but remember that these are strong growing trees and even a small tree will soon develop into an impressive feature.

By mail order, trees 6-12in (15-30cm) tall are available in bulk at less than a dollar each, if you’re planting a forest, or very large specimens are also available for hundreds of dollars. Be aware that large specimens sometimes have difficulty establishing themselves after planting.

Where to buy red oak trees in the US:

• Shop red oak trees at Amazon
• Shop red oak trees at The Arbor Day Foundation
• Shop red oak trees at Forest Farm
• Shop red oak trees at Monrovia
• Shop red oak trees at Nature Hills

Where to buy red oak trees in the UK: 

• Shop red oak trees at Ashridge Nurseries
• Shop red oak trees at Crocus

Maybe you were thinking there aren’t that many vegetables to plant in December? Well, you’d be amazed how many crops benefit from winter sowing, whether to make the most of the extra weeks on the plot or under glass, or to improve the flavor or vitality of the veggies you grow. Super-hot chillies use the extra time to develop tongue-tingling fruits – whilst kales develop tender-tasting leaves in the cool, crisp air. Even on the shortest day (21st December), there are planting traditions attached to growing garlic that can help ensure the tastiest returns at harvest time.   

Unheated greenhouses and cold frames give you the perfect setting for maintaining balance, ventilation and protection for fledgling plants. For those crops that are a little bit more vulnerable to the cold, heated propagators can help with germination and early seedling health. You can also make more of the light with the help of grow lamps – and even grow some crops without any light at all. This is such an exciting time as we look ahead to the new vegetable planting calendar year, the longer days and the future gardening possibilities. 

We’ve compiled the must-grow veggies you need to focus on during the winter weeks. From pink oyster mushrooms and red hot chilli peppers to undercover treats that provide quick nourishment and variety, our round-up of vegetables to grow will keep you stocked up in winter warmers for months to come.

12 vegetables to plant in December for months of tasty and nutritious treats

If you’re keen to kickstart another year of healthy, tasty crop-growing in the best possible way, a few early sowings and plantings will put you in a very strong position for when spring arrives. From gargantuan garlic to teensy clumps of cress, there’s plenty here to please your palates. 

Enjoyable and inventive kitchen garden ideas such as sea kale and pink oyster mushrooms can be found even when daylight seems low. And if natural light seems non-existent, you can always grab some chicory and find out how easy it is to cultivate exotic chicons! Whether you’re after quick croppers, bulky bulbs or interesting new colors in the coming months, this must-grow guide for December planting is sure to inspire.

1. Red kale

When it comes to hearty crops that deliver in all weathers, they don’t come more resilient than kale. These kick-ass cabbage cousins are some of the best low maintenance plants you can grow. Revered as an ornamental superfood, kale is packed with minerals like calcium, folates, and vitamins A, C and K. As well as being amongst the best winter brassicas you can harvest, it is a surprisingly adaptable crop to start off in the latter stages of winter. Red kale is ideal both as mature plants that crop into autumn, and as baby leaves to harvest five weeks from sowing. So for cool pickings that benefit from crisp freshness at both ends of the year, make kale one of your key vegetables to plant in December. 

Varieties such as ‘Red Russian’, ‘Redbor’ and ‘Scarlet’ make for tender cold-hardy mini crops as well as enduring garden staples. Leave them to bulk up in cool and shady garden displays, and they will reward you with a glut of luscious leaves come harvest time. Many varieties have been bred for high levels of disease resistance, as well as tolerance to weather extremes. What’s more, if they are exposed to chills, it can improve the taste. As Amateur Gardening’s veg expert Lucy Chamberlain notes, the only thing these plants need if grown to full size is some space. ‘If you intend to grow plants to maturity, grow them 24in (60cm) apart each way. Plant at greater density if you plan to grow outside,’ says Lucy.

Knowing how to grow kale doesn’t involve much ongoing care beyond watering and weeding. When harvesting the leaves, Lucy recommends working from the base up and keeping the central rosette intact for the most prolific crops. Great companion plants for kale include tomatoes, garlic, chives, leeks and tagetes.

• Buy ‘Redbor’ kale in the US: view at Super Seeds
• Buy ‘Redbor’ kale in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

2. Edible dill

Delicate, feathery and evocative of aniseed balls, dill is mistakenly believed to be tricky to cultivate. This couldn’t be further from the truth, and the slow, sleepy pace of winter is the perfect time to indulge in early sowings. Packed with antioxidants, magnesium and vitamins, and believed to help reduce cholesterol and the risk of heart disease, dill is often overlooked in favor of the staples like basil and parsley. However, if you want to create a herb garden with real scope, it is well worth squeezing into your winter gardening routine. 

When making December planting of dill undercover, you just need to make sure you choose a suitable propagation zone with regulated light and warmth. If you can find a space in your greenhouse, all you need to factor in are a couple of heated propagators and heat mats if you want to grow dill ahead of the pack. While dill is cold-hardy, it germinates best where soil temperatures are kept at around 65˚F. Make sure your developing dill receives at least six hours of sunlight a day and keep the soil slightly acidic, well drained and, above all, moist (not soggy). 

As seedlings develop, you can pot dill on in a garden planter alongside rocket, cilantro and chervil. Plant out only once the last risk of frost has passed, or keep indoors. Harvest from eight weeks after sowing, and don’t be afraid of pinching the tips as this can promote bushier growth. Allow a couple to flower, and you can also enjoy the seeds. Try compact ‘Fernleaf’ and dwarf ‘Bouquet’ for containers, and ‘Mammoth’ if you have space and fancy something with more decorative potential. 

• Buy ‘Mammoth’ dill in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy 'Mammoth' dill in the UK: view at Amazon

3. Super-hot chillies

Some of the most critical vegetables to plant in December are those super-hot chillies designed to get your taste-buds a-tingling. As Chris Bonnett of Gardening Express points out, very hot chillies grow slowly. They need warmth and humidity – and plenty of it – to ripen fully. So the sooner you start off those Carolina Reaper, Trinidad Scorpion and Naga peppers, the better. As anyone who grows chillies will know, indoor sowing is the best way of moderating the conditions these plants crave early on. Starting in December guarantees that those eventual fruits have plenty of time to acquire the atomic levels of heat required. 

For clarity, it is the Capsicum chinense varieties that benefit most from these earlier sowings to bring about the most bountiful harvests. (For comparison, C. annuum varieties are best sown a little later.) 

‘To get the best results, sow seeds in multi-purpose or seed compost. Keep plants in a heated propagator (set to 77˚F/25˚C or higher) under a growing light until seedlings appear,’ says Chris. Chilli enthusiasts are advised to kickstart their fiery campaigns by growing vegetables in pots and keeping those emerging seedlings as warm as possible with a heated mat or similar. Water just enough to keep the surface of the compost moist and prevent chills below the surface level. Once plants are 6in (15cm) high, you can pot them on. 

They can also be planted up in borders and grown in tandem with rosemary, oregano, nasturtiums, dill, parsley, basil, chives, beans and peas. Once they fruit, water sparingly and expose to more sun for crops that really feel the burn. Super-hot chillies reward a long season of care, warmth and a light seaweed feed with unforgettably vibrant fruits that pack a real punch.

• Buy Habanero chillies in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy Habanero chillies in the UK: view at Suttons

4. Wild rocket

Snappy, peppery and resilient, if there’s one leafy plant guaranteed to be the life and soul of the salad bar this winter, it’s wild rocket (arugula). As a cut-and-come-again cropper, it has a short life but makes the most of it and crams in a belly-full of flavor. Our recommendation for December planting is ‘Dragon’s Tongue’, a feisty purple and green rocket that grows well in winter and is loaded with potassium and vitamin C.

If you are looking for something simple to plant in a greenhouse and you want quick returns to keep you fed in these chilly days, wild rocket delivers – and it doesn’t skimp on heat! Sow batches in an unheated greenhouse or a cloche every two weeks, or keep on a windowsill for bursts of continuous growth. You can grow rocket and other herbs together in pots, and also plant in tandem with spinach, mizuna and mustards. Growing in shallow containers allows you to cultivate clumps in successive harvests, picking a few leaves from each plant when needed. 

Fans of companion planting can try growing with onions, chives and garlic, which can all help to intensify the taste. Younger leaves are milder and more delicate, while older leaves will be hotter. You can also eat flower buds and shoots, but pinching them out will prolong cropping. 

• Buy rocket in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy rocket in the UK: view at Amazon

5. Elephant garlic

Also called wild leek (Allium ampeloprasum), this garlic develops gargantuan bulbs. As Chris Bonnett notes, if soil is moist and free draining, these chunky croppers appreciate a winter planting. Plant in situ, giving each one an 8in (20cm) space on all sides – or start under a cold frame.

Big on character but gentle on the tongue, elephant garlic is unfussy about wet winters – as long as you avoid waterlogging. If your soil holds water, add sand to the planting hole and top with fine compost to assist with drainage and keep your elephants happy. Garlic benefits from this period of dormancy, and traditionally gardeners are encouraged to plant on the shortest day of the year (21 December). And for those who are short on space and looking for small vegetable garden ideas, garlic can even be planted in large tubs or buckets.

The planted clove swells to a monobulb, but plant now for a long season and this will split into more. This garlic grows flower spikes that reach 1.5m tall. When learning how to grow garlic, one good cultivation tip is to eat the stems (scapes) so energy is directed towards developing the bulbs, then lift in June. And don't forget about including companion plants for garlic in your plot – some potatoes and brassicas will help improve the health of your crops and increase your yield.

• Buy garlic in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy garlic in the UK: view at Crocus

6. Potted mint 

If you’re after something as varied as it is fast-growing, make some room in your December planting for ‘fruity’ mints. Because mint is one of the best herbs to grow in your garden, you may think it is best in an open space. Yes, mint is a robust, prolific perennial with a reputation for taking over – but at this time of year, you can keep things well contained if you grow mint in good-sized pots kept under glass. Crinkly sweet Moroccan mint (Mentha spicata var. crispa), crispy apple mint (M. suaveolens) and aromatic strawberry mint (M. x piperita) are well suited to container growing, and their hardy, fuzzy-haired leaves make them ideal for winter growing. 

As Chris Bonnett explains, mint is perfect for growing in the chilly winter months. You can enjoy the freshest, most fragrant leaves if you have room undercover in a bright, partially shaded greenhouse or mini greenhouse or a light windowsill. Even the most vigorous mints can be kept in check if you use a large pot, tub or a bucket (with holes). 

‘Place the plant in a spot that’s in partial shade and keep the soil moist but well-drained,’ says Chris. More established potted mints work well with other container-kept herb garden ideas such as curly parsley and spicy oregano. If contained well, it’s also an ideal companion for carrot and kale as it can deter common pests.  

As well as growing from seed, you can also cultivate new mint plants at this time of year by taking root cuttings. This is a quick and easy way of hedging your bets. Cut sections of roots into 1.5in (4cm) lengths, place on gritty compost, cover and water well. Leave in a frost-free spot under glass and then, in spring, grow the young cuttings in their own pots.

• Buy apple mint in the US: view at Trade Winds Fruit 
• Buy apple mint in the UK: view at Crocus

7. Chicory and chicons

This entry into our top vegetables to grow in December offers a generous two-for-one offer! Grow chicory to eat over the coming weeks as a quick leafy treat – or let it develop in the ground and then make a delicacy known as ‘chicons’. Leaving the plant to build up a long tap root, you use that root in December to sprout torpedo-shaped chicons using a technique known as ‘forcing’. Intrigued? You should be! 

Sown on heat mats under glass, varieties such as ‘Palla Rossa’ and ‘Sugar Loaf’ make a snappy, flavorsome cut-and-come-again option. As Lucy Chamberlain points out: ‘Just give them ample light by placing them on a bright windowsill or on greenhouse staging.’ These are some of the easiest vegetables to grow in winter. But if you’re feeling like developing a variety for forcing over winter, we recommend ‘Witloof’ or ‘Witloof Zoom’.     

Grown in raised garden beds in warmer months, the thick tap roots that develop can be forced the following December. Cover with a forcing jar or bucket, or place roots in sandy compost in large pots and leave in a dark place. This coaxes them into early growth, resulting in chicons; a crisp, creamy delicacy that can be enjoyed raw with citrus fruits or braised in white wine and thyme. 

• Buy chicory in the US: view at Burpee
• Buy Witloof chicory in the UK: view at Amazon

8. Sea kale

You might not fancy the thought of eating ‘sea-colewort’ or ‘scurvy grass’. But trust us, the sea cabbage (or sea kale) is well worth including in your vegetables to grow in December. Sea kale (Crambe maritima) is both a pretty ornamental and a unique edible – and just like chicory, it presents you with the chance to force shoots into early growth from root cuttings for an ocean-soaked delicacy. 

If you don’t have sea kale, start some indoors. A variety like ‘Lily White’ is ideal. When they are ready to transplant, grow out in slightly alkaline soil, full sun or partial shade. Like the best coastal plants, it is happy in wind, rain and salt spray, and is drought-tolerant and frost-hardy. Once your plant is a couple of years old, it can be forced in December. These are some of the best winter vegetables to grow and don't require a lot of cultivation.

Pack root cuttings in big containers of sand or soil in the dark, or cover with a black bucket or rhubarb forcer (you can grow rhubarb by forcing in the same way). In five weeks, these maritime marvels will be delicious raw or steamed with butter. Their succulent shoots with purple tips are likened to an oceanic asparagus! 

• Buy sea kale in the US: view at Seeds Gallery
• Buy sea kale in the UK: view at Plants of Distinction

9. Cress

Don’t let anyone tell you cress is boring: it’s a veritable dynamo of vitamins and minerals such as iron and calcium. The best thing about cress (Lepidium sativum) is how easy it is to grow it. As Amateur Gardening's organic veg expert Bob Flowerdew says: ‘You can grow cress in shallow trays with moist paper towels and sit in a windowsill: the perfect accompaniment for all those turkey sandwiches!’  

Its distinctive signature is summed up in its other names: peppergrass, pepperwort and pepper cress. You can grow common and watercress varieties, and curled, frilly types. It’s also easy to grow these punchy micro-greens in pots in a greenhouse or cold frame. Just keep cress growing in moist conditions, whether on paper or in seed compost. Boost moisture by covering seeds with cling film: germination takes place in 48 hours, and you can harvest within a week. In much the same way as you might grow bean sprouts, you'll find that cress crops quickly and prolifically.

Because it’s quick-growing, cress is an ideal choice for interplanting with tomato seedlings. It also works well as a companion plant for herbs such as chive and mint, which can help you add another dimension of fresh flavor to your winter salads.

• Buy cress seeds in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy cress seeds in the UK: view at Amazon

10. Purple asparagus

Homegrown asparagus is a luxury we can all enjoy – and winter is your time to plant crowns in light, well-drained soil. There’s something so indulgent about knowing how to grow asparagus, so we couldn’t resist including them in our rundown of vegetables to grow in December. But while you may picture classic green spears with tinted tips, seared and dripping in butter, there is another option. Purple asparagus is nuttier, and also sweeter, with 20 per cent more sugar in its stalks. 

Although the fluffy foliage is usually green, the spears are distinguished by intense violet hues and plumper tips. They are also less fibrous (so more tender) than other types and loaded with antioxidants. Have we convinced you yet? Mouth-watering beauties include: ‘Pacific Purple’, a two-tone crop; crunchy ‘Burgundine’, an easy-going hybrid; and ‘Purple Passion’, cold-hardy with tinted fronds as well as crops. 

Planted now during dormancy, they have time to settle before the growing season begins. It takes three years for plants to fully establish, but with space and sunshine, these purple beauties are worth the wait. Just remember after harvesting to give the ground a good mulching and let plants get their beauty sleep, so succulent spears rise year after year.

• Buy asparagus crowns in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy asparagus crowns in the UK: view at Amazon

11. Lamb’s lettuce 

Rapunzel, Mache, Valentin: the dreamy names associated with these spoon-shaped leaves indicates a delicate crop. But lamb’s lettuce (Valerianella locusta) is a robust winter-hardy stalwart, and one of our top picks for December planting. Also known as corn salad, this fresh nutty leaf crop is capable of high yields – the Louviers types are perfect for winter growing. Its soft, distinctive lobes are a seasonal salad staple, so if you’re growing lettuce in winter it perfectly offsets tangy crops like rocket.  

Lamb’s lettuce is great to grow this month, as it prefers cool, moist conditions. As long as there’s sun, it’s fine starting this salad green off in shallow trays in a cold frame or unheated greenhouse; growing in pots under glass or on a windowsill is also possible. Cloches can help speed growth, and remember to water plants well. This is a classic cut-and-come-again (abundant, easy, nutritious), so sow densely and repeat every two weeks. Cut while young and lush, and use sharp scissors so you don’t damage the main stem.   

Tasty corn salad varieties to try include: mildew-tolerant ‘Elan’ and ‘Favor’; ‘Vit’ for vigorous baby leaves; and ‘Dark Green Fully Hearted’ (Louviers) for its dainty but frost-hardy oval leaves. 

• Buy corn salad in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy lamb’s lettuce in the UK: view at Amazon

12. Pink oyster mushrooms

Do not adjust your screens, folks: these coral-colored fungi really are as vibrant as they look. Those looking to grow mushrooms would be right in thinking you’re spoiled for choice, but pink oysters are especially well-suited to indoor growing this month. Native to tropical climes, they thrive in temperatures between 64˚F and 80˚F (18˚C and 27˚C). They also grow quickly, producing fruits in three weeks, so they should definitely be on your shortlist of vegetables to grow in December. 

These vigorous, heavy-yielding edibles have a firm texture and a meaty quality. Rich in flavor, the pink oyster (Pleurotus djamor) is a striking addition to stir-fries and soups, and can be cut and fried for a convincing bacon substitute. Pink oysters are not fussy and will grow on a range of substrates: straw, sawdust blocks, paper, hardwood and coffee grounds. We recommend straw for your first attempts.

Moisture and humidity are key to success. Oysters are also shade loving so bear this in mind when selecting a spot for cultivation. Spray the walls of the greenhouse or surrounding interior twice a day to help with this. Harvest before caps turn up. Pinks are prolific bloomers, so a plentiful harvest is assured if they are treated well. 

• Buy mushrooms in the US: view at Amazon
• Buy mushrooms in the UK: view at Suttons

What else can I do on the vegetable plot in December?

• Now is the time to protect all potted exotic fruits. Prevent waterlogging by standing outdoor pots on pot feet. If you are growing fruit in pots you should also make sure that your exotics are moved to a frost-free place now. A greenhouse or conservatory is ideal, but a shed or garage will suffice. If your pots are too large to move, cloak them in a tent of horticultural fleece and cap the top with bubble wrap.
• Create bean trenches: if you want to know grow runner beans that crop from July to November, they need care from the roots up. To help beans develop an extensive system once planted, start now with the planting bed. Lucy recommends digging a trench 10-12in (25-30cm) deep and (for a row) 3ft/90cm wide and 8ft/2.4m long, or (for a circle) 4ft/1.2m wide. Tip well-rotted compost into the base and cover with soil.
• Continue checking stored apples and pears. If any are on the turn, don’t throw them on the compost heap: put fruit spoils to good use. Ground-feeding birds like blackbirds and song thrushes will love to feed on these spoils – and in the depths of winter, they might attract redwings and fieldfares, says Lucy. So as well as knowing how to make bird feeders, make sure any spoils get picked up by your feathered friends.
• Keep your redcurrant bushes dripping in berries with some winter pruning. Assess the plant for dead or diseased growth. Grab your best secateurs and remove this as a priority. Then identify the fruit buds: the tiny cone-shaped buds that stick out at right angles to the main stems. Your pruning objective is to keep a good amount of stems bearing these buds. Remove congested growth and shorten over-long new growth.

December gardening jobs can more or less be divided into pre December 25 and post December 25. The run up to Christmas Day is all about tidying and sorting the garden ready for the Christmas holiday to make sure it looks tidy and colorful for festive visitors.

I tend to use the days between Christmas and New Year as a good time to get some fresh air and work off some of the excess calories. It is lovely to get out into the winter garden and see what’s going on – if you’re lucky you may even see the first hellebore buds pushing up through the soil, or the first catkins hanging fatally from the hazel trees, the first early signs of spring.

As long as the weather isn’t torrentially wet or frozen solid there are still a lot of things you can do in the monthly gardening calendar, from mulching soil to enrich it for next year, to pruning trees, creating colourful winter planters and even taking cuttings of your favourite perennials.

Don’t forget houseplants either. They are often given as gifts at this time of year and those you’ve had for ages will also need nurturing through the shortest winter days.

And as the days are shortening and the weather is getting colder and damper, this is the perfect opportunity to go undercover and make sure your greenhouse and sheds are clean and tidy, too. 

Keep your plot in shape with our top December gardening jobs

Our pick of December gardening jobs will help you create the garden you want and also keep plants healthy and flourishing.

1. Look after houseplants

This season is a tough time for your indoor plants because many of them hail from temperate, humid climates and are not well suited to our dark, dry, heated homes. 

You can improve conditions by creating a humid atmosphere around their leaves using a layer of damp pebbles and misted water, and by moving them to the lightest part of the room. 

Unless they are flowering, there is no need to feed houseplants in winter and they only require watering when their compost is dry to the touch.

If you are given a Christmas plant as a festive gift, read the label and follow its feeding and watering requirements carefully. Orchids will thank you for a mist with orchid spray and you should dunk their roots in a bowl of water every fortnight, letting them drain well afterwards.

Houseplants can also harbour pests that seek refuge inside our nice warm homes, or that travelled back inside after plants spent their summer in the garden. Keep them healthy by wiping their leaves with a soft, damp cloth to remove dust and the first signs of pest presence, and if you find large infestations use an indoor insecticide, making sure there are no pets or children in the vicinity.

Top tip: If you are buying plants as a gift, remember they have been in a warm garden center and the shock of the cold outside won’t do them any good. Ask staff to wrap them well before leaving the shop and get them back indoors as soon as possible.

2. Take root cuttings

Taking root cuttings is an easy technique used between November and early March when perennials are enjoying their winter slumber. It can be carried out on several varieties including Oriental poppies, Japanese anemones, phlox, hardy geraniums and verbascum.

As well as being easy, plants grown from root cuttings develop under the soil, so are less prone to pests and diseases. If the plant is mature and has a substantial root ball, you can also create several new plants from one parent.

When taking cuttings from plants, choose healthy pencil-thick roots and remove no more than a third of the entire system as you will only weaken the parent plant, which should be returned to the soil immediately after the cuttings are taken, and watered well.

Top tip: Some plants such as Japanese anemones, phlox and hardy geraniums produce thin roots that are too slender to insert vertically into a pot. Their root sections around 2-3in (5-10cm) should be laid on the top of pots of dampened seed compost and covered with vermiculite or perlite. They can then go into a cold frame or mini greenhouse. Keep the compost damp.

3. Plant a bright container

Give festive visitors a colorful welcome this Christmas with a bright winter planter by your front door. Never think that summer has all the best container plants, for winter is just as richly blessed if only a little differently.

Some of the best winter plants for pots that I like to use are hardy herbs such as thyme and sage to offset gem-bright winter cyclamen and violas, while gaultheria is a compact shrub that has glossy red berries in winter. Grasses also add height and structure to containers, and like all hardy plants can be added to the garden when you want to change your planter’s planting scheme.

Use multipurpose compost and feed your plants while they are growing. There is no need when they stop flowering in the depths of winter, but you will still need to water them during dry spells.

Don’t forget to raise your garden planters on feet so that excess water can escape, and wrap them in fleece, newspaper or bubble wrap during freezing spells.

Top tip: If you have any spring bulbs left over from fall planting, add them to planters as they will help prolong their flowering life.

4. Give your soil a boost for next year

There are gaps in the garden border and the weather is closing in, so it’s time to give the soil some love before everything becomes too cold and wet to work on.

Fork over the soil before mulching, remove perennial weeds (dandelions, chickweed etc) and turn small weeds into the soil as a homemade green manure.

After weeding, add a generous layer of well-rotted farmyard manure or homemade compost. It will be broken down by the elements (our weather is often at its fiercest in the early months of the year) to feed the soil.

If the ground is waterlogged or frozen stay off it and leave it until it dries out or the weather warms. If it is workable though it is wet, lay a plank or a board over the soil and stand on it so your weight is evenly distributed and you avoid compacting the soil.

We use homemade compost on the borders which is cheap but does often contain weed seeds that need hoeing out as the season progresses.

Top tip: If you have a farm or stables nearby, pop in and ask if you can buy some horse manure. It will be a lot cheaper than commercial manure, but make sure you leave it to rot down for a few months before use as its nitrogen levels can scorch young plants.

5. Move perennials

Sometimes we make mistakes and plant things in the wrong place in our borders. If you have a perennial or two that aren’t thriving or look wrong and you have found perfect spots for them elsewhere, you still have time to get relocating.

Having said that, if the soil is frozen or waterlogged, leave them where they are and make the move next spring, just as they are coming back into growth.

Follow this method for moving perennials: 

1. Start by digging a new planting hole large enough to accommodate all the rootball, then add some bone meal to the base. This will degrade through winter and help feed the roots when the plant comes back into growth next spring.
2. Carefully dig around the plant you want to move and lift it from the ground, keeping as much soil around the roots as possible. 
3. Move it straight to its new home and once it is in the hole, infill around the roots with soil and compost.
4. Firm this soil down as you go so it falls around the roots, supports the plant and gets rid of air pockets, then water around the roots generously. Remove any weeds that grow around the plant and make sure the roots don’t dry out while it settles in.

If you feel you are in need of some new digging equipment and have an eye on potential Christmas gifts, our guide to the best garden spades is the best place to start your search.

Top tip: You can help prevent soil compaction by working off a plank or wooden board when planting and dividing.

6. Prepare hellebores for flowering

Hellebores, or Christmas/lenten roses, are one of the first perennials to come into flower in early spring. They are a beautiful and varied plant, happy in most soils and situations, though dappled shade is their favourite.

Their flowers, usually in shades of red, purple, cream and white, will start emerging through the soil in the New Year, so it's important to create ideal growing conditions for them to look their best.

For one of your December gardening jobs, start cutting away this year’s old and tattered foliage. This improves the plants’ appearance and also reduces the risk of diseases entering through damaged leaves.

Once the old leaves have gone this next generation has room to grow and you can further help the hellebores by mulching them with a thick layer of compost or well-rotted manure to feed the soil and insulate the roots through the worst of the winter weather.

7. Tidy up tender perennials

Unless you are lucky enough to live somewhere warm, or your garden is sheltered, your tender perennials such as pelargoniums, fuchsias and dahlias should either be undercover or fleeced and mulched to help protect plants from winter. 

Large pelargoniums should be cut back to between 4-6in (10-15cm). This helps keep them healthy through a winter undercover, when subdued lighting and reduced ventilation could potentially make their dense and fleshy foliage more vulnerable to diseases such as botrytis, a common grey mould.

It also helps prevent them from forming flower buds during mild spells of weather, because this will divert their energy away from root and stem development when they come back into growth, weakening the plant.

Don’t feed them through winter and only water occasionally when the compost has dried out.

8. Make your fig tree more productive

Although far more common in warmer climates, fig trees are now widely grown in the UK. If you're keen to learn how to grow figs, ‘Brown Turkey’ is generally seen as the easiest, and most popular, variety to cultivate.

I have a fig tree growing on a warm, south-facing wall and although it is only seven years old, this year it gave me a glut of delicious, succulent fruit. However, because of the brevity of the British summer not all the figs ripened and these half-ready ones need to be removed now. 

If you leave them they may start to rot, endangering the health of the tree and even if they stay healthy, they still won't ripen next year.

They are easy to take off, just give a gentle tug and then add them to the compost heap. Take them all off, leaving the minuscule fruit buds, barely larger than a small fingernail, in place. 

These can be found in the joints where the leaves meet the branches, and they will sit out winter and swell and grow next summer.

Top tip: Fig trees are vigorous growers and need pruning – but not yet! Leave this job until the end of winter (around February), otherwise they will bleed profusely and lose too much sap.

9. Plant a shrub for winter scent and color

As long as the ground isn’t frozen or saturated, you can plant trees and shrubs as one of your December gardening jobs. In fact, you will be spoilt for choice as most varieties will be available to buy bare root, so they are smaller and considerably cheaper than those sold in containers.

Best of all, there is no need to wait until spring to see the results of your planting. If you choose a container-grown variety with evergreen leaves, scarlet berries, or one one of the best winter flowering shrubs, such as a Daphne odora, sweet box (Sarcococca confusa) or Viburnum x bodnantense 'Dawn', then you will have a pretty spectacle to greet visitors this festive season.

From a gardener’s point of view, early December planting requires less work because the ground is damp and easier to dig and the season means you shouldn’t need to water as often as in spring and summer.

Just make sure the tree or shrub you buy suits your soil, or a container if that’s what you are planning, and has enough room in the spot you wish to plant it. 

Before planting, soak the pot in water (or soak the roots if it is bare root) and make sure the hole you have dug is large enough to accommodate the rootball comfortably. Add some bone meal to the planting hole, as this will break down through winter and feed the roots next spring, 

Firm the soil down around the tree or shrub (or compost if it is in a pot) and water generously, even if rain is forecast.

Top tip: If you have heavy soil prone to waterlogging, create a shallow mound of soil and grit and plant your tree on that, adding lots of well-rotted compost or manure matter to improve fertility and boost drainage.

10. Keep your greenhouse clean

Greenhouses are busy places in winter, often packed with tender plants, cuttings and seedlings. They need to be kept well ventilated and pest-free and the glass should be clean to allow maximum light levels through to the plants within.

Disinfect surfaces too to avoid contaminating young plants or seedlings you grow and sow during winter.

On warmer days, open doors, windows and vents to let air pass through your greenhouse and help prevent fungal problems, moulds and rots attacking plants. Remember to close them in the afternoon when temperatures fall.

Another task to add to your December gardening jobs is to check for pests, especially snails and aphids that will happily seek shelter in a warm greenhouse.

Top tip: There are plenty of options for the best winter vegetables to grow in a greenhouse during the colder months. One of the easiest to try is cut-and-come-again salads in old growbags and containers to give you lots of fresh and vitamin-packed greens through winter.

11. Keep your compost ticking over

Keep adding prunings, green kitchen waste, grass clippings and dead plant material to your compost heap.

For the best composting results, chop up woody material so it breaks down faster and never add anything that is diseased, such as rose prunings infected with black spot. If you are overwhelmed with cardboard delivery boxes this festive season, you can cut them up and add them to the heap as well. 

Turn the contents of your compost heap regularly with a fork, taking care not to spear the contents too fiercely in case you injure any wildlife hibernating within.

Rain will help composted materials to decompose faster, especially if they are building up heat as they break down in the heap. However, if dry and very cold weather is forecast, cover the heap or plastic 'Dalek' bin with some old carpet. This helps retain moisture and heat and keeps things ticking over well.

Ever wondered about the difference between compost vs mulch and what is best for your garden? Our guide has all the answers. 

Top tip: Never add cooked food or pet waste to your compost as it will attract vermin.

12. Get festive with garden plants

Prep your garden for Christmas! Harvest holly, ivy, rosemary, hips and berries and create some stunning Christmas wreath ideas for your front door and DIY Christmas decorations for your tree.

If you have a rooted Christmas tree growing in a container, it may need top dressing with fresh compost or re-potting altogether. Choose a pot one size larger than the one it is already in and use ericaceous compost. 

If you plan to bring it indoors, wait until the last minute as pine trees don’t take kindly to hot, centrally heated interiors. To keep a Christmas tree alive as long as possible, place it away from radiators and open fires and return it outside as soon as you can.

Top tip: Save fallen pine needles and use them as a mulch around acid-loving plants such as blueberries, rhododendrons and azaleas.

13. Look after your lawn

The winter months are hard for our lawns and ideally we should walk on them as little as possible. This is especially true in freezing weather as footfall can flatten and kill the grass, leaving dead patches that are swiftly colonised by weeds and moss.

There are several things you can do as part for your lawn care in winter to keep it healthy so it is ready to grow again next spring.

Grass keeps growing as long as the temperature is above 41˚F (5˚C), so you can still use your lawn mower, though keep the blades high to avoid churning up the soil.

Areas of lawn with compacted soil can become waterlogged, so learn aerate a lawn by driving the prongs of a garden fork into the affected ground to improve airflow and help the water run away.

Another autumn and winter problem is the appearance of worm castings on lawns. These are slimy coils of mud that worms push up onto the surface of the grass. If trodden on they can become a host for weeds, moss and algae, so leave them to dry and then lightly brush them away. You can also use the back of a garden rake to disperse them.

Top tip: Areas on the lawn that are shaded or growing under trees and shrubs where there is little airflow can be vulnerable to fungal diseases such as red thread and fusarium patch. Improve airflow and light levels by pruning back overhanging branches and staying off these areas in winter.

14. Keep your shed tidy

Escape into the shed on dark, wet and dismal days and give it a good tidy for one of your December gardening jobs! If everything is in a jumble, with nothing in its right place, winter is the perfect time to organise some practical shed storage for tools, pots and chemicals.

Sharpen and clean your tools and hang them up so they are easily accessible and the floor is clear. Not only do practical garden tool storage ideas make life easier, they will prevent you from buying duplicates of things you thought were ‘lost’, thus saving you money! 

Make sure any garden chemicals are in their correct containers – never decant them into other bottles – and keep them out of the reach of children and pets.

Also ensure that pesticides and weedkillers are stored well apart – we have heard several horror stories from readers asking for help after they have used a weedkiller instead of a pesticide on their prized plants, with traumatic results.

Top tip: Go through your pots and trays, recycling those that are broken and washing those that are reusable. It will save money and also help save the planet.

What is a chiminea? These outdoor products are a wonderful freestanding source of heat, either as a fire to relax in front of, or as an oven to cook on. 

Traditionally, a chiminea is made from clay or terracotta, though you'll see many made from iron and stainless steel, too. It has a wide base that leads upward to a narrow chimney that smoke rises through. 

Nowadays, the best chimineas are those made from cast iron or cast aluminum, as they will withstand much hotter temperatures than clay and last for many years. That said, the aesthetic appeal of a terracotta clay chiminea makes them a beautiful addition to more rustic schemes.

How is a chiminea different to a fire pit? 

It's easy to assume that a chiminea and a fire pit are basically the same, but there are a few key differences between the two. 

A fire pit is an open source of heat, with no chimney through which to direct smoke. They are often cheaper and lighter than chimineas, says the experts at Gardeco. The latter means they are easier to move. 

Another benefit of the best fire pits is the 360° view of the fire itself – although this can also mean sparks and flames are more likely to get out of hand. A chiminea allows for a much more controlled burn than a fire pit, thanks to the intentional design of the vertical smoke stack and enclosed fire bowl. 

Chimeneas also provide more heat. 'A chimenea absorbs the heat of the fire and by radiation and convection, warms the immediate surroundings,' explains Gardeco. 'The process is the same whether clay or cast iron. The larger the chimenea, the better the heating effect.' As fire bowls are open, the heat will dissipate into the air immediately with little convected heat distribution, they add.

Wayfair's Resident Style Advisor, Nadia McCowan Hill, explains that chimineas are a great option for smaller spaces because they take up less room than a fire pit. 'They’re perfect for a designated area and especially for cozy and intimate gatherings,' she says.

How to use a chiminea 

A chiminea's base is usually pretty small, so plan for your firewood accordingly and don't build a bonfire! They require only small amounts of fuel and should be given small chunks of wood to burn. Never use flammable liquids or gasoline.

Lighting a chimenea is even easier than lighting a fire pit. 'Due to the enclosed belly design of chimeneas, wind and rain is kept away from the fire and thus it is very easy to light the fire in a chimenea,' says Gardeco. 'Similarly, the airflow through the mouth, onto the fire, and out of the funnel creates a perfect draw, so that chimeneas have superior combustion characteristics.'

It's important to choose the best type of fire wood when using a chiminea, and one of the key factors is it must be dry, otherwise it'll smoke excessively when burnt. 

'The recommended fuel to use in chimeneas and fire bowls is dry wood, or, if cooking, charcoal,' says Paul Harris. 'Coal is not recommended as fuel in clay chimeneas because it is likely to crack the clay due to the heat produced during combustion, although coal can be used in cast-iron chimeneas.'

Lighting a chiminea can be done in four simple steps:

1. Clean out the inner chamber of any debris and old ashes before starting to build up your kindling.
2. Cover the bottom of the chiminea with at least five inches of sand, gravel or lava rock. This protects the base from coming into contact with fire – crucial if you're using a clay chiminea, otherwise the clay can crack. Using sand also helps reduce the amount of smoke that billows out.
3. If desired, you can place two bricks at either side of the base to keep the wood elevated, or use a small metal rack.
4. Place kindling at the center (plus a natural fire lighter, available from Amazon, for easier lighting). Build up your larger pieces of wood around the kindling, then light the kindling.

Can you cook on a chiminea?

Cooking on a fire pit is a wonderful outdoor activity, and chimeneas can be just as easily used for doing so. 'You can buy options with inbuilt grilling surfaces, making them ideal for toasting up a tasty treat,' Nadia says.

'Charcoal should be used when cooking on a chimenea,' says Paul Harris of Gardeco. 'Never attempt to cook on yellow flames; this will contaminate food with carcinogenic compounds, resins and black soot.'

Alternatively, it is safe to cook when a wood fire is reduced to glowing ash as the carbon content is consumed, which is similar to using charcoal, he says.

'Do not cook on scrap pallet wood; often these have been treated with toxic preservatives.'

What can you not do with a chiminea?

Because of their intense heat, there are some fire pit safety tips you'll need to bear in mind when using a chiminea.

• Only use a chiminea outdoors, and ensure there is at least 10 feet of clear distance from anything flammable in every direction. Be aware of items that could be damaged from the heat too, like vinyl fencing.
• When a chiminea is lit, keep the lid off. If a fire is lit and the smoke is enclosed with no way to escape, this can cause the chiminea to overheat and potentially cause damage.
• Never leave a chiminea unattended while it's in use. This is a source of intense heat and will continue to radiate that heat outwards even after the fire has been completely extinguished.
• Don't leave your chiminea unprotected from the elements if you want it to last. Cover the cool chiminea if rain is forecast – there are plenty of waterproof chiminea covers available, like this sturdy cover on Amazon.

Tempted by a chiminea of your own? Here are some of our top picks to buy:

With winter fast approaching, many homeowners will want to know how to winterize an outdoor faucet. Fortunately, this is an easy process suitable even for DIY beginners with no prior experience dealing with outdoor plumbing. 

In most cases, outdoor faucets can be winterized within minutes, unless yours is leaking or damaged. Just like winterizing a sprinkler system, there are many benefits of winterizing your faucet to ensure it remains fully functioning after a prolonged period of cold weather. 

Home maintenance experts explain the reasons why you should do it and the best way to complete this essential yard maintenance task. 

Why should I winterize an outdoor faucet?

First, though, what is the reason behind needing to winterize an outdoor faucet in the first place? Maria Ivanova, cleaning and home maintenance expert and founder of Master Maid, says that the most important reason 'is to prevent freezing. Freezing can happen quickly when temperatures drop below 32˚F, which can lead to your pipes freezing.' Frozen pipes can burst, which will result in a costly repair. 

Bear in mind that not all faucets need winterizing as part of your winter garden jobs. You can install a frost-free faucet if you want your faucet to remain operational year-round. Older homes, however, often have non-frost-proof faucets. Fortunately, winterizing a faucet is very easy.

How to winterize an outdoor faucet in 5 simple steps

Learning how to winterize an outdoor faucet is straightforward. Here's how to do it:

1. Shut off the water supply to the faucet. The shut-off valve for outdoor faucets is typically located either in the basement of your home or in a crawlspace close to the wall where the faucet is located.  
2. Inspect the faucet for leaks. Maria Ivanova cautions homeowners that 'if there are any leaks around the base of your faucet, this can cause water to freeze faster than it could otherwise because it will take longer for water to warm up before it travels through pipes or connections to get back into your house.' If you find a leak, it can usually be fixed by replacing the O-ring on your faucet, try Amazon for replacements. If that doesn't do the trick, you'll need to call in a professional plumber before you can finish the winterization.
3. Disconnect your garden hose, drain it completely, roll it up and store it away.
4. Drain your faucet of any remaining water.  
5. Insulate your faucet. Although many homeowners choose to skip this step, if you live in an area with extremely cold winters, it can be worth doing. Home improvement expert and author of the Rhythm of The Home blog Stefan Bucur explains that insulation 'not only helps with the winterization process but it also increases energy efficiency and lowers the amount of noise and rattling it produces.' You can simply wrap your faucet in fiberglass and tape it up with duct tape, or you can install an outdoor faucet cover, try Amazon for a wide range. 

Should outdoor faucets be left open over winter?

Frost-free faucets can be left open during the winter. If yours isn't frost-free, you need to make sure the water supply is closed off for the winter. Dale Stephen, researcher and home improvement expert at Mowersandyardtools, says: 'If you have an outdoor faucet, be sure to close it off when the weather starts to turn cold. And if you have a timer on your faucet, be sure to turn it off when you're not using it. That way, you won't have to worry about frozen water damaging your pipes.'

Do outdoor faucets need to drip to prevent freezing?

Leaving the faucet dripping is sometimes used to prevent it from freezing, but only use this method in temperatures below 28˚F. Stefan Bucur explains that letting faucets drip 'can be helpful in case the insulation is not enough to fully prevent freezing because flowing water has a lower freezing point.' 

Note that if you live in an area where temperatures don't drop that low, there's no benefit to letting your outdoor faucet drip. 

When you're prepping your yard for winter, you may also want to consider winterizing your lawn mower to protect it from the cold weather too. 

If you've been wondering when is the best time to apply lime to a lawn, chances are you've heard of the practice but aren't sure why or when you should be doing it for the best results. 

As it happens, applying lime is a lawn care step that is season-specific. Liming at the wrong time of year will render the whole process useless. However, if you apply lime correctly and at the right time of year, you'll reap the benefits, which include better growth and thicker, greener grass in the new season. 

When is the best time to apply lime to a lawn?

The answer is: fall. According to Jeremy Yamaguchi, the CEO of Lawn Love, applying lime to your lawn during the fall season as part of your autumn lawn care 'allows the lime time to break down into your soil. By the time spring comes around again, it will have reached your grass roots and you can enjoy the benefits of a beautiful lawn with a more balanced soil pH.'

If you forgot to do it in fall, you can still do it during a spell of mild weather in early winter as part of your winter lawn care. Just don't lime the lawn when the ground is frozen as it won't penetrate properly. Also, Jeremy advises that 'liming your lawn in the summer can cause damage because the sun is too intense.'

While you're thinking about your fall gardening checklist, remember that fall can also be a good time to repair lawn patches ahead of winter. 

Why should I add lime to my lawn?

You may be wondering why you even need to lime your lawn in the first place. The answer is that lime helps restore the correct soil pH needed for grass to thrive. Lime alkalizes soil that has become too acidic. You can test your soil with a simple soil test kit from Amazon if you're not sure what the pH is. 

As a general rule, if your soil pH is below about 6.5, your lawn could benefit from an application of lime to reduce the acidity of the soil. Other signs of it being too acidic are if you notice that your lawn is growing very slowly or is growing a lot of lawn moss. 

Lime also adds nutrients to your soil, namely calcium and magnesium. It's not a substitute for lawn fertilizer, but it contributes to healthy grass growth. 

The most common type of lawn lime is Dolomitic lawn fertilizer, which is typically available in both powder and pellet form.

• Shop Dolomitic lawn fertilizer in the US: view at Amazon
• Shop Dolomitic lawn fertilizer in the UK: view at Amazon

Do you apply lime before or after rain?

The best time to apply lime to your lawn is after rainfall. The reason for this is that if you apply lime before heavy rain is forecast, the lime will just be washed away by the rain and you won't reap the benefit of liming. 

'Don’t apply lime if there is rain in the forecast, or if your lawn is wet, stressed, wilted, or dormant,' says Jeremy Yamaguchi. 

You should definitely avoid liming a lawn if the soil is soggy after a heavy rainfall and/or has puddles. Wait for the lawn to dry, then apply your lime. A light rain shower a few days after you've finished liming is acceptable. 

Can you put lime on top of your grass?

Putting lime directly on top of your grass is not a good idea. According to Aditya Abhishek, founder of Agriculture Review, 'you can apply lime by using a spreader on top of your grass, and then irrigate lightly so that the soil can absorb lime properly.'

A spreader, which can be bought on Amazon, helps distribute lime evenly across your lawn. Dunking lime directly on top of the grass is likely to hinder penetration, making the whole process less effective. 

Can you apply lime and fertilizer at the same time?

Yes, it's possible to do this but it may not deliver the best results. Dale Steven of Mowersandyardtools.com also points out that you should only do this while 'using the proper mix and handling the chemicals properly.' 

You don't need to worry about lime and fertilizer harming your lawn; it's your hands you should be careful with. Always wear protective gloves while handling garden chemicals, and follow the correct advice on how often to fertilize a lawn too.

Birch trees bring a touch of enduring texture and brilliance to even the most modest-sized gardens. Birches are small- to medium-sized deciduous trees which are favored for their elegant shape, their often silvery white bark, their early-season catkins, and their rich fall foliage. 

Birch trees grow and develop a presence more quickly than most garden trees, although they are not as long-lived as maples, oaks and larger forest trees. Given their ability to establish quickly, they are ideal trees for small gardens.

The distinctive bark of birch (Betula) trees is often white, though sometimes tinged with pink or pale coppery tones, and it makes an attractive feature, especially in winter. On certain birch varieties, the bark can be peeled back to reveal bright, freshly colored bark within. Multi-stemmed plants, or three plants set very close together, create the most impressive winter impact. Birches also create impact at other times of year, with yellow catkins hanging from bare branches early in the season, followed by small diamond-shaped leaves which often turn a bright buttery yellow in the fall. 

The brilliance of their fall foliage displays seems to vary less from year to year than with many trees grown for autumnal splendor. While the best evergreen trees you can think of may offer reliable, long-lasting shapes and textures, birch trees offer a changing tapestry of rich and varied tones. Because of their ability to adapt across the seasons, birches are an ideal choice for year-round interest. Find out how to grow your own elegant birches and add a flourish of unique beauty to your plot…

Birch trees: key facts

• Plant type: Hardy deciduous tree
• Mature size: 15-80ft (5-25m)
• Soil type: Moist, but well-drained
• Soil PH: Slightly acid, neutral, slightly alkaline
• Time of year to plant: Fall, winter, spring
• Flowering time of year: Early spring
• Flower color: Yellow
• Hardiness zones: USDA Z3 (RHS H7)
• Scientific name: Betula
• Common name: Birch

Which birch trees are best?

When you are selecting the best birch trees for your needs, bear in mind that they are mainly undemanding. Birches are generally resilient to the cold (down to USDA Z3), so winter hardiness is not likely to be an issue. These trees are adaptable and tolerant of a range of conditions. They will grow well in most soils, although river birch (Betula nigra) and silver birch (B. pendula) are especially suited to wet conditions. Try to avoid growing in shallow, chalky soils. Birches are not so keen on high humidity and hot summers, either.

There is plenty of variety in the birches that can be grown for color and texture. When choosing a tree for your garden, give some thought to whether you would prefer to grow native or non-native birch trees. Many gardeners prefer to plant native species, but many of those with the most attractive barks, for example, are forms of the Himalayan birch (Betula utilis) and are not native.

Birches are some of the best trees for small gardens, thanks to the fact that they are quick to establish. However, although they are generally small-medium in size as they mature, height may still be an issue, and reducing the size of a mature tree is a skilled job. Birches of relatively modest growth include Arctic birch (B. nana), Young’s weeping birch (B. pendula ‘Youngii’) and purple-leaved Betula ‘Royal Frost’.

Give some thought to what you rate most important about birches, as this may have some bearing on the varieties you grow and where you can grow them. Birches are grown for the following reasons: 

• Growth habit: Birches vary from upright, to rounded, to weeping in growth. They cast light shade, but have shallow roots.
• Trunks: The bark of many birch trees makes a striking winter feature. The white bark of the Himalayan birch (B. utilis) shines in the winter sun. Some gardeners even wash it to accentuate its brightness.
• Catkins: In late winter-early spring, bare branches fill with pendulous catkins to 5in (13cm) long. Variety ‘Fascination’ has the longest catkins of all, but birch pollen can cause an allergic reaction in some people.
• Fall foliage: The foliage of many birch trees turns bright yellow in the fall. The foliage of the native cherry birch (B. lenta) is amongst the finest for its autumn coloring.

How to plant birch trees

Birch trees are some of the best low maintenance trees you can grow and they do not need any special planting treatment. They can be planted in late fall, winter or early spring, as long as the ground is not waterlogged, parched or frozen. They can even be planted later in spring if they are carefully looked after. Just avoid planting in high summer.

These are quite easygoing in terms of position. They are some of the best trees for front yards and amongst the best backyard trees you can plant. In terms of ground preparation, minimal attention is required. Birches are more shallow-rooting than many trees, so it is not necessary to prepare a deep planting hole. As a general rule, aim for a hole as deep as the rootball, and two or three times as wide. Amend the soil with weed-free organic matter and then plant firmly.

Although birches do not develop a dense head that catches the wind, staking is important. Driving a 4ft (1.2m) stake in at a 450 angle, secured to the trunk 2ft (60cm) above the ground, works well. Irrigate well after planting, and add a bio-stimulant or seaweed booster to the water, then finish with a good mulching to get things off to the best start. 

Growing birch trees in containers

If you were wondering if you could grow birch trees in pots, then the answer is a resounding ‘yes’. Specimen birch trees can be grown in large containers. They make impactful statement pieces as part of inventive patio gardening ideas and also work well on the deck. However, it is important to remember that although they can take a little drought, birches will only grow well in containers if their roots are kept moist and they are fed regularly. Setting up a drip system that is activated at the touch of a switch, or controlled by a timer, is the most effective way to keep your birch consistently well watered.

You should also think carefully before siting your containerized birch tree. As with many great container gardening ideas, you need to plan ahead as mobility can quickly become an issue. You will likely bring in the container, potting soil and tree separately, but when planted up and watered, the combined weight will make it virtually impossible to move later. Even if this is not true straight away, it will become an issue once the tree matures and has to be transplanted into a larger container. Finally, try to position the potted birch so that the container itself, at least, is in the shade, since birches dislike hot roots.

How to care for birch trees

Fortunately, birches do not demand a great deal of attention. Because they are some of the best fast-growing trees you can try, you will find that growth tends to be rapid in the early years. For this reason, you need to irrigate in dry spells during the first year or two after planting to prevent growth being limited by drought. You should renew the mulch annually to help retain moisture, prevent weed growth and keep the roots cool. Checking tree ties and tree supports regularly is also important in a tree’s early years, so repair these promptly as needed.

For those who are minded to keep an eye on pruning shrubs in their gardens, the good news here is that birch pruning is rarely necessary. The only time you need to prune birches is if a tree is damaged or grows too large for its space. Always prune in late summer or early fall, as spring pruning is usually followed by sap bleeding from the wound. As the tree develops, remove low side branches flush with the trunk year by year, leaving a bare trunk 5-6ft (1.5-1.8m) high that is clear of branches. This will help to show off the bark’s coloring most effectively.

How to propagate birch trees

Birch trees often produce a great many seeds that are carried away in the wind. Some of these seeds will germinate, sprout and develop into birch seedlings. This can happen in a variety of environments, even in perilous or parched conditions. In late winter, these seedlings can be carefully dug up and planted in a lightly shaded, out-of-the-way place. They can then be moved to their final positions when they are a few years old. 

Birches can also be grown from cuttings taken in summer when the new growth is starting to harden. In much the same way that you would take cuttings from plants, you can make more birches using birch cuttings. Just follow these simple steps:

• Cut shoots approximately 4-6in (10-15cm) long from the tips of the new growth. Trim below a leaf joint and snip the leaves off the lower half. 
• Dip the bases of the birch cuttings in rooting hormone and then insert them in pots of fresh potting soil.
• Stand the pot inside a plastic bag, leave the top open. Mist occasionally until rooting takes place. Then move into individual pots to grow on.

Problems with birch trees and how to solve them

Birch trees are troubled by few problems, the worst being the bronze birch borer. This is a small wood-boring beetle that tunnels under the bark and blocks the tree’s moisture-moving channels. It can kill whole branches, usually the upper ones first. According to the entomologists at Purdue University, vigorously growing trees are less inclined to be damaged by borers than trees in poor condition. Birch trees are relatively short-lived so old age, adverse weather conditions or other insect-related stresses can all contribute to weakened trees, entomologists claim.

Other problems such as infestation by aphids, a long summer drought or competition between the shallow birch roots and lawn grass around the tree may also make trees vulnerable. For those looking to get rid of aphids, do not attempt to spray whole trees with insecticide; this is not only difficult, but a huge range of beneficial insects will also be killed. Instead, maintain healthy trees by regular watering or plant a resistant variety in the first place. Consider ‘Dakota Pinnacle’, the three varieties in the Renaissance Series, and ‘Whitespire’.

What are the most common birch trees?

Depending on your region, common types of birch will vary. Ability to adapt to different climates and soil types makes some kinds of birch more prevalent than others. Some birch trees are more commonly found in the wild, whereas others are more popular in gardens. You can turn this to your advantage if you are growing plants for particular garden color schemes or thematic plantings, particularly if you know that your birch of choice has a specific bark shade.  

• Common birch trees in the US:
  The most common native birch tree is paper birch (Betula papyrifera). It grows across all of Canada, and much of the northern United States as far south as Virginia and Colorado. The native river birch (B. nigra) prefers slightly warmer conditions and is native across the north and east from Wisconsin south to Florida. In gardens and yards, B. nigra ‘Heritage’, with its peeling creamy bark, is exceptionally popular and is widely grown. This bark works well with purple flowers and blue tones.
• Common birch trees in the UK:
  Three native birch trees grow wild in Britain, and the silver birch (B. pendula) and downy birch (B. pubescens) are widely seen. The silver birch grows over almost the whole country but with the bias to the south. The downy birch is stronger in Scotland. Silver birch tends to be found in dense stands, while downy birch is more often seen as individual trees or in mixed woodland. In gardens, varieties of the Himalayan birch (B. utulis) are the most common, especially white-barked ‘Doorenbos’, ‘Grayswood Ghost’ (shown), ‘Jacquemontii’ and ‘Silver Shadow’. This bright bark works well with yellow flowers and red floral plantings.

How quickly do birch trees grow?

Birch trees grow quickly, but are not long lived. When growing well, the silver birch (Betula pendula) can reach 25ft (8m) in 10 years and 60ft (18m) after 20 years, but some birch trees die in 60 years and most will be dead at 90 – compare this with the lifespan of hundreds of years for an oak or maple. Wind-blown birch seeds are often the first to spring up in cleared forests or on urban brownfield sites and quickly make stands of young trees. But decades later, they are overtaken by slower-growing but longer-lived oaks and other forest trees.

The speed at which they make an elegant tree, combined with the fact that they only cast a light shade, make them good trees for new gardens. However, their shallow roots suck moisture from the soil, limiting the plants that thrive beneath. Some of the best plants under trees include low-growing bulbs like cyclamen, snowdrops and lily-of-the-valley. Other well-positioned underplantings include hostas, hellebores and dicentra. 

Are birch trees deer resistant?

Some birches are rated as ‘rarely damaged’, the highest category of deer resistance, as assessed by the New Jersey Agricultural Experiment Station (NJAES). They run a program in which they consult a wide range of landscape professionals, horticulturalists of all kinds, designers and researchers to identify the garden plants that deer prefer to eat – and those they do not. Other birches are less deer-resistant and are rated as ‘seldom severely damaged’. So for those interested in deer-resistant plants, shrubs and trees, there is some good news for birch growers.

In the ‘rarely damaged’ category are two North American native species: paper birch (Betula papyrifera) and river birch (B. nigra). Birches in the ‘seldom severely damaged’ category are the native yellow birch (B. alleghaniensis), and Himalayan birch (B. utilis). The European white birch (B. pendula) is also rated as ‘seldom severely damaged’ but should not normally be planted, as it is considered invasive.

Are birch trees invasive?

The European white birch (Betula pendula) has been planted to help reclaim industrial landfills and mine slags, as it is highly tolerant of polluted soil; it was thought to be an ideal plant for this use. A half-grown tree can produce almost 140,000 wind-blown seeds in a single season, and they not only sprout in difficult situations but have also proved invaluable in a wide range of other situations.

So the European white birch is now growing in the wild across the northern states and is considered invasive in the states of Kentucky, Maryland, Washington and Wisconsin, as well as in parts of Canada. In parts of Ontario, it has become the dominant tree. As regards general landscaping around trees, just bear in mind that planting European white birch in the US should be avoided. Instead, consider the native river birch (B. nigra) or Himalayan birch (B. utilis).

Where to buy birch trees

In fall and spring, birch trees are often seen in walk-in nurseries, garden centers and the garden areas of DIY stores, grown in large containers. These are heavy so you may prefer to have your birch tree delivered. For those keen on growing a birch as part of a modern garden, the good news is that several nurseries will plant it for you. Birches are also sold ‘balled and burlapped’ – that is, dug from the nursery, with the roots and soil tightly wrapped in burlap for transport. Again, these can be heavy.

A wider range of varieties is usually available by mail order, and mail order nurseries may offer them by pot size or by stem height. These are often smaller (more manageable) specimens than those available in your local walk-in nursery. If you are looking for the best trees for fall color, you are sure to find plenty of birch varieties via several online suppliers. Birches may be listed as ‘single stem’ or ‘multi-stem’. Multi-stem plants have three main stems, making an attractive clump as they mature. Use our quick links to find birch varieties for your garden.

Where to buy birches in the US:

• Shop birches at Fast Growing Trees
• Shop birches at Forest Farm
• Shop birches at Monrovia
• Shop birches at Nature Hills
• Shop birches at Planting Trees

Where to buy birches in the UK:

• Shop birches at Amazon
• Shop birches at Bluebell Nursery
• Shop birches at Burncoose Nurseries
• Shop birches at Chiltern Seeds
• Shop birches at Crocus
• Shop birches at Thompson & Morgan

Discovering the best method for winterizing hibiscus is important if you want your plants to last from one year to the next. These large and brightly colored tropical blooms are such a highlight of the summer garden, with some varieties lasting right to fall, that you will definitely want to do everything you can to keep them going.

The tropical varieties of hibiscus are not tolerant of extreme weather so if you live in a cold climate you will need to take special measures to protect your plants. But the good news is there are also hardier types of hibiscus that will thrive outdoors in cool climates.

Be sure to gather together your precious plants as part of your winter garden jobs and make sure they are sheltered in the right conditions so they survive the cold months ahead. Then you will be welcoming an abundance of bright and exotic blooms next summer and for many more to come. 

Key points to consider when winterizing hibiscus

How you winterize your hibiscus depends on what type you have and how you're growing it. Some potted hibiscus plants can be taken indoors. Finding out how to protect plants from winter and adopting proper winterization techniques ensures that your plants will survive cooler temperatures.

'The first thing that you need to figure out before you begin preparing your hibiscus plants for winter is whether your varieties are hardy or tropical,' says Kevi Tara, owner of plant nursery and shop LEAFnJOY. 'Hardy varieties can survive outdoors in zones 6+ but tropical ones will start suffering from cold damage once the temperatures drop below 50˚F (10˚C).' 

So how do you work out if your hibiscus is a hardy or tropical variety?

• Hardy hibiscus plants grown in the yard are the perennial varieties including Rose mallow (Hibiscus moscheutos), Hibiscus mutabilis and Hibiscus coccineus. Unlike its tropical counterpart, perennial hibiscus is hardy in USDA hardiness zones 4-9 in a sunny spot, depending on whether they're grown in pots or in the ground. 
• Tropical hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa-sinensis) are great patio plants with showy flowers. They are hardy to USDA zone 9 or 10, with minimum winter temperatures around freezing, as in south Florida and south Texas. The leaves will be damaged below 40˚F (4˚C) or so. They need wintering undercover.

Your step-by-step guide to winterizing hibiscus

Hibiscus plants are found in many gardens and for a good reason: their large and vibrant blooms are a real attention-grabber both in flower beds and container gardens. 'Hibiscus are pretty easy to look after but they do need a pinch of extra care once the weather gets colder and winter starts knocking on the door,' says Kevi Tara.

So if you're growing hardy varieties in the ground now find out what you need to do when it comes to winterizing hibiscus.

1. Once fall starts coming around, start the process of winterizing hibiscus by fertilizing plants with a fertilizer that is potassium rather than nitrogen based. 'This ensures that once the new growing season starts again, the hibiscus would have received enough nutrients to produce its gorgeous, colorful blooms,'explains Kevi Tara. 'Feeding hibiscus plants with nitrogen-heavy fertilizer during the dormant months might encourage the plants to produce fresh new leaves and growth which might get damaged by the cold.'
2. Wait until the first frost to cut plants back. Cut back any old, dead and faded stems, as you would when winterizing lavender. 'Remove any old flowers and dead leaves too,' says Dale Steven of mowersandyardtools. 'These can increase the chances of hibiscus beetle infestation.' Clear off any dead leaves and plant debris from the base of your hibiscus plants as well to prevent a breeding ground for pests. The best time to do this is in late winter before the new growth comes through. Always use sharp and sterilized secateurs so you don't transfer any diseases to the plant.
3. Hardy or perennial hibiscus plants should be covered in winter when grown in areas with cold temperatures and snowfall. A layer of mulch around the base of your hibiscus provides insulation during cold winter weather, just the same as when winterizing hostas. 'One of the biggest things you can do when winterizing hibiscus is to add a thick layer of mulch around the plants before the first freeze' says Jen Stark, founder of Happy DIY Home. 'This will help to protect the roots as the temperatures drop.'
4. The plant can also be wrapped in protective fabric or a tarp to ward off chilly weather and icy winds. 'You can use frost cloths and wrap them securely around,' says Kevi. 'Make sure that they are not too tight around the crown, however, to avoid breakages if it gets windy.' Frost protection fabric is available on Amazon. 
5. Remove the mulch in spring once you are sure any danger of frost has passed. Then give your hibiscus a good feed with an organic fertilizer.

How do you winterize a potted hibiscus?

If you have a hardy variety or you live in a warm climate, you can consider winterizing hibiscus growing in garden planters outside. Move your plants to a warm and sheltered exterior wall of the house that will offer protection. Choose a south facing spot so your hibiscus plants also get a good dose of sunlight during the day. 

If you have several hibiscus plants, a good way to protect plants from frost is to group them together so they offer each other extra protection. If severe weather conditions prevail wrap your hibiscus in warm fleece or frost cloth to offer more protection. Or if it really is cold move them undercover overnight.

If you are really concerned about how your potted hibiscus will fare over winter, or you are growing a tender, tropical variety, you should consider moving it indoors during the colder months.

'It is advisable that you bring potted hibiscus indoors during winter,' advises gardener Alex Tinsman from HowToHouseplant.com. 'The plants thrive at room temperature hence leaving them outside during winter would do harm to them.'

If you're planning on winterizing hibiscus plants that are container-grown in the house first prune it back by about half, removing any dead, damaged or diseased leaves or stems. Then move it indoors before the first frosts. 

'Before you bring any outdoor plant indoors, to avoid diseases and pests spreading to your houseplant collection, always inspect all outdoor plants thoroughly,' says Kevi. This is an important part of finding out how to care for houseplants in winter. 'At the slightest notch that there is something wrong with the plant, isolate it and either treat it or consider tossing it, especially if it has a heavy infestation.' 

Once your hibiscus has passed the health check and is now safe and happy growing in your indoor garden for the winter, make sure to keep the plant in a warm room with bright light and water it regularly. 

Ideally it needs a warm, sunny spot in the house where it will thrive as an eye-catching flowering indoor plant. It will continue blooming for a while, then will probably stop flowering and drop some leaves but this is usual. Keep the soil moist but not wet.

When the time comes to move it back outside again you can move your plant outdoors then back indoors over a period of several days to help it adjust. 

'When it's time to take it back outside it's vital that you only do this when the temperature is staying above 60˚F (15˚C) overnight, typically after the last frost,' says Emma Locker of DIYGarden. 'Hibiscus plants don't do well being thrown back outdoors too quickly, so use a gentle approach. Start by placing it in the shade, then slowly move it to a sunnier location daily. By the tenth day, it can be in full sun.' 

Knowing how long you can stay in a hot tub is important for enjoying these backyard features safely. 

From inflatable designs to high-tech acrylic models, they are a wonderful way to relax and create a spa experience in your plot. But, staying in the water for too long can be dangerous for adults and children alike and must be avoided.

So, if you're ready to snap up one of the best hot tubs, make sure you've brushed up on this advice.

How long can you stay in a hot tub? Your question answered

Our hot tub ideas may have got you inspired for one of your own – after all, they're the perfect way to relax outdoors and soothe our stresses and any aches and pains. However, our bodies can only enjoy the many health benefits of soaking in a hot tub when it is under optimal conditions to do so, says Christine Kingsley, an Advanced Practice Registered Nurse of the Lung Institute. 'This calls for the maximum time spent in the tub to be generally limited to no more than 15 minutes when set on the highest skin-safe water temperature which is 104˚F (40˚C).'

However, underlying medical conditions such as pregnancy, heart issues, or skin issues, and other external factors such as air temperature, weather, or tub material all play a role in how the body becomes affected by hot tub soaking. So, it's critical for each individual to listen to their bodies, she says.

'Getting out of the tub immediately is necessary at any sight of symptoms,' continues Christine. These include light-headedness, nausea, skin reddening, and shortness of breath. Taking a break will allow the body to regulate its core temperature and for symptoms to subside.

Failure to do so may result in you passing out in the tub, which can leave you with skin burns or even cause cardiac arrest, she continues. In fact, according to David Clark, a personal injury trial lawyer of The Clark Law Office, heat overexposure accounts for about 10% of hot tub accidents, coming second after slip and fall injuries.

'Seeking guidance from your primary healthcare provider must be a prerequisite if you plan to incorporate tub soaking into your lifestyle, because they know your body and its medical history the best,' says Christine.

'Moreover, to better help the body adjust to the tub's temperature, one must stay hydrated the entire time,' she adds. The experts at The Swimming Pool and Allied Trades Association (SPATA) agree, advising to use non-glass products.

Although it may seem tempting, putting your head underwater is a risky hot tub mistake and should never be done, SPATA adds. 'The high-water temperature can potentially lead to loss of consciousness.'

How long can children use a hot tub for?

'Always supervise children when they are using the hot tub (and the medical advice is to avoid children under four years using the hot tub),' SPATA says.

It's important to note that they are also vulnerable to scalding burns and heat overexposure in hot tubs. 'They have smaller bodies and their skin has elevated temperatures, therefore, they can't handle heat as well as adults,' explains David. 'Their body won't be able to regulate internal temperatures, which can lead to hyperthermia.'

Be vigilant in checking that the temperature isn't too hot, and ensure they leave the tub immediately if any adverse symptoms occur. To err on the side of caution, reduce the length of time that they stay in the tub to under 10 minutes.

How long can pregnant women use a hot tub for?

Hot tubs can be dangerous for pregnant women, David says, especially during the first three months of pregnancy. This isn't just because of the heat – it's also because of the risk of harmful bacteria that can accumulate in the water (although proper hot tub maintenance can help reduce this). 

For this reason, it's best to avoid using a hot tub completely if you're pregnant. However, after the first trimester, taking a dip may be possible for short amounts of time, if approved by your doctor first. 

Even then, there are precautions you should take, explains Healthline. These include using the tub for no more than 10 minutes at a time, allowing plenty of cooling-off time in between sessions, and keeping your chest above the water level where possible.

Ready to add a hot tub to your backyard, now you know how long you can safely stay in it? Here are some of our favorite hot tub deals.

Have you ever wondered whether you can bake bread in a pizza oven? Everyone knows a freshly-baked loaf is a thing of great joy. And when done right, it's miles apart from the synthetic-tasting, plastic-wrapped replica you often find in a supermarket. Wouldn't it be nice to cook one up in your own backyard?

Pizza ovens have had a surge in popularity over the last few years, elevating alfresco meal times and backyard get-togethers everywhere. But these outdoor cookers aren't restricted to pizzas and pizzas only. They're a brilliant way to make bread, and it's actually super simple, once you know how. 

So, if you're ready to broaden your recipe repertoire beyond everyone's favorite fast food, then give bread a go. It's definitely a reason to snap up one of the best pizza ovens if you haven't got one already.

What type of pizza oven do you need to make bread?

There are different types of pizza ovens, ranging from from traditional wood-fired designs to modern gas versions. The good news is, you can bake bread in a pizza oven no matter what type of fuel it uses.

Gas models make it easy as you have better control of the temperature – it's similar to cooking bread in an indoor oven, really. Cooking bread in a wood-fired pizza oven, however, is a more traditional method and requires a bit more practice – but the results are, arguably, even more delicious.

How do you bake bread in a pizza oven?

There are all types of food you can cook in a pizza oven, but bread has to be one of our favorites. 'People have been baking bread in a wood-fired oven for thousands of years,' says Vicky Naylor, General Manager at ACR Stoves. 

Start by making your dough. While it's proving, fire up your pizza oven and get the stone baking board inside heated up to the desired temperature for your recipe. Once it's hot enough, aim to minimize the flame, and, using a peel, place your dough inside the oven, closing the door behind. Vicky recommends ensuring the base of the dough is heavily floured to stop it from sticking. As the bread will rise quickly, it's also a good idea to cut a slash across the top of the loaf before cooking it, to let the air out.

Cook the loaf until it begins to show color, say the experts at Ooni on their website. For a standard loaf, this should be around ten minutes or so. Then, rotate it and continue baking for a few minutes longer, until it's golden brown all over. Vicky explains that this ensures an even bake.

Unless otherwise specified, the interior of your finished loaf should be at least 205˚F (96˚C), the Forno Bravo experts advise. Try tapping the bottom – Vicky says it should sound hollow when it's cooked through. 'Let it cool slightly before you cut it open to allow the middle to firm up,' she adds.

How hot should your pizza oven be to make bread?

'Bread is often baked between 392-482˚F (200-250˚C) in pizza ovens, depending on the bread you are baking,' says Vicky. 

'At the top of the temperature range, breads such as naan breads and garlic breads will cook within minutes. Next, lean breads (a dough low in fat and sugar) such as sourdough, ciabatta, focaccia and rolls are baked at traditional temperatures around 392-446˚F (200-230˚C). Breads that have more fat, eggs and sugar are cooked at a lower temperature of around 356˚F (180˚C) until you are essentially baking cakes.'

The experts at Forno Bravo recommend investing in a point-and-shoot infrared thermometer (available on Amazon) to ensure you get the temperature right – it's one of those pizza oven accessories that will make cooking a breeze.

Shop these essential Ooni deals for baking bread in a pizza oven:

Can succulents survive winter is something you might well be asking if you're a fan of these popular outdoor plants. Available in an almost infinite variety of shapes and pretty shades of green, red, and purple, they are are typically used in container arrangements and as part of green walls and roofs. As temperatures cool, however, you may wonder if they'll survive. 

A key part of learning how to grow succulents is learning how to overwinter them correctly. Should you bring yours indoors or will they do fine outdoors? What are the necessary steps for protecting these plants from very harsh winter weather? We've asked several plant and gardening experts to give their top tips for keeping succulents alive in winter. 

Can succulents survive winter outside?

The first thing you will need to do is work out if you are growing a hardy or tender succulent. If you have hardy succulents such as sempervivums and hardy sedums. they can stay outside in winter providing you follow a few simple steps to help them survive. If, however, you are growing soft or tender succulents, and live in an area that experiences frost and snow, these will need to be brought indoors. If you are unsure which variety you are growing, the plant care label should list that information, or ask for advice at your local plant center. 

Many people assume that because succulents come from subtropical climates they can't survive a frost, but this isn't really true for hardy varieties. Succulents are a very special category of plants: they originate from desert climates, and desert climates are known for wide temperature fluctuations. In fact, most deserts will have sub-zero temperatures at night, and many types of succulents are well adapted to these sudden drops in temperatures. 

This isn't to say that you should do nothing to help prepare your succulent garden for winter. Plant expert, arborist, and author of the Agro Fever blog John Dave points out that 'succulents can adapt to colder temperatures with a little preparation.' 

Here are the main steps for making sure that your hardy succulents will survive cold winter temperatures. 

1. Trim off dead leaves

'Start by trimming back any dead or dying leaves,' recommends John Dave. 'This will help the plant focus its energy on staying alive rather than trying to support dead leaves.' 

This is true of all plants, which is why trimming or pruning is often done before the winter cold sets in. You want to give your plants time to recover energy and store it in the live parts of the plant. Succulents may also suffer from frostbite if you leave dead leaves on them. 

2. Water deeply but less often

Succulents store water in their leaves and don't require as much watering as other plants. All plants require less watering during the winter, but this is especially true of succulents, which require completely dry soil between watering to survive frosty weather. 

Soggy, waterlogged soil combined with the cold will almost certainly kill them. So, John Dave recommends watering plants 'once every week, making sure the soil is completely dry before watering again.'

Pro gardener and founder of Greeny Thumbs Violet Joy Miller, advises that 'it is not necessary to water succulents as often in winter as in summer, but they will still need some water to survive. The frequency of watering will depend on the type of succulent, the climate, and the potting mix. As a general rule, most succulents need to be watered every one to two weeks in winter.' She also adds that 'it is best to err on the side of too little water rather than too much, as overwatering can lead to root rot.'

If you live in an area that receives lots of rain in winter, it can also be worth moving your potted succulents under a roof overhang so that they don't get drenched with continual downpours that could rot the roots. 

3. Cover your succulents with a horticultural fleece

If you are expecting extremely cold weather or a lot of snow, it's best to err on the side of caution and cover up your succulents to protect plants from frost. Andrew Porwol, Owner of Garden Centre Shopping, says that 'to keep succulents that you can't bring indoors safe and snug, cover them either with store-bought snow protectors or old blankets and fleeces. The layer will halt frost in its tracks and give your succulents the shelter they need.' Plant protectors can be bought on Amazon. 

4. Move to a sheltered location

With many hardy succulents, all they need to survive a cold spell outside is a more sheltered location. This is easier with a succulent container garden as you can simply move your pots away from exposed locations on the ground. 

Ideally, a sheltered location up on a garden wall or even on top of a patio table will give your succulents a better chance of surviving an especially cold weather spell. John Dave recommends moving your succulents 'to a spot where they'll be sheltered from wind and frost, such as an enclosed patio or garage.'

5. Move them indoors

If your yard is very exposed and you don't have a more sheltered outdoor location, it may become necessary to transfer your succulents to your indoor garden over winter. 

'If you live in an area with particularly cold winters, it is best to grow them in a greenhouse or treat them as indoor succulents during this time.' Once temperatures have started to climb again and the risk of snow or heavy frosts has passed, you can return them to their spot outdoors. 

As we previously mentioned, any tender succulents will certainly need to be moved indoors, unless you live in a warm climate where temperatures don't fall below freezing in winter. 

The hazelnut is from the birch family Betulaceae with a natural distribution across the Northern hemisphere. They are large shrubs or small trees. ‘Very rarely, however, does the plant achieve the proportions of a tree,' observed the botanist and author L.J.F. Brimble in 1948, 'for it produces so many suckers from its roots that the entire plant looks like a very large shrub.'

Plants come to life in late winter or early spring when male flowers open in dangling catkins. These dance and jiggle in the wind like lamb’s tails, releasing clouds of yellow pollen into the air. Look closely and you’ll spot the female flowers, whose small wine-red stigmas project from bud-like structures ready to catch pollen. Clusters of nuts form, each enclosed in two pale green leafy bracts. When these mature from mid-summer to mid-fall, there is a race as squirrels, deer and other wildlife seek out the tasty nuts, often starting on them while underripe.

Whether grown in the landscape or as a backyard tree, hazelnuts have gentle good looks, and are easy to grow.

• Buy hazelnut trees in the US: view at Nature Hills
• Buy hazelnut trees in the UK: view at Thompson & Morgan

Hazelnut key facts:

• Plant type: Nut-bearing large shrub or small tree
• Mature size: Height: 8-16ft (2.5-5m) Spread: 15ft (4.5m)
• Soil type: Most well-drained soils
• Soil pH: Ideally neutral to alkaline
• Time of year to plant: Fall
• Flowering time of year: Late winter to mid spring
• Flower color: Male catkins are dark in bud but pale yellow when open. Female flowers are deep red.
• Hardiness zones: USDA 4-9 (UK H6)
• Scientific name: Corylus
• Common name: Hazelnut

Different types of hazelnut trees

There are 14-18 species in the hazel genus Corylus, including American hazel (C. americana) native to the Eastern side of the US and the North American beaked hazel (C. cornuta). 

The European hazel or cobnut (C. avellana) is widespread in the landscape and gardens of the UK. The name hazel derives from the Anglo-Saxon word haesel, meaning bonnet, because of the way the nuts seem to peek from their husks. 

The filbert (C.maxima) bears long, elegant nuts and grows wild in southeastern Europe and southwest Asia. 

The nuts of American hazels are smaller and some say less flavorsome than those of the European hazel. They have the advantage of resistance to eastern filbert blight – but can still carry the disease and spread it to the vulnerable European hazel. For a long time, the latter were grown commercially on the milder, western side of the US, well-isolated from the natural populations of American hazelnuts, but filbert blight is now a problem. Fortunately, breeding work to produce hardy, disease-resistant hybrids with large tasty nuts has been going on since the 1920s and nut farms still prosper, mainly in Oregon. 

For wildlife gardens, the American hazelnut is a great choice. For the best edible nuts, look for cultivars with good blight and bud mite resistance. 

Cultivars for US gardeners:

• ‘Dorris’: With complete resistance to eastern filbert blight, this compact hazel bears plenty of rounded, good-sized, tasty nuts. H and S: 8-12ft (2.4-3.5m). USDA 5.
• ‘Polly O’: This high-yielding blight and bud-mite-resistant type produces rounded, medium-sized flavorsome nuts. H and S: 8-12ft (2.4-3.5m). USDA 5.
• ‘Red Dragon’: More ornamental than productive, this eastern-filbert-blight-resistant twisted hazel bears contorted, spiraling stems, red leaves, burgundy catkins and red nut husks. H and S: 6ft (1.8m). USDA 4-9.
• ‘York’: Resistant to blight and bud mite, this compact cultivar produces nuts of average size and is generally a good pollinator. H and S: 8-12ft (2.4-3.5m). USDA 5.

Cultivars for British gardeners:

• Corylus avellana ‘Cosford’: A self-fertile cobnut well-loved for heavy crops of large, long, sweet nuts with thin shells. It is also a good pollinator. H and S: 8-12ft (2.4-3.5m). UK H6.
• Corylus avellana ‘Tonda di Giffoni’: A compact, Italian variety with extra-long catkins perfect for smaller gardens. Expect plentiful crops of large nuts. H and S: 6-8ft (1.8-2.4m). UK H4.
• Corylus x maxima ‘Kentish Cob’: Also known as Lambert’s filbert. This hardy, reliable and self-fertile variety produces flavorsome, fine-textured nuts. H and S: 8-12ft (2.5-3.5m). UK H6. 

How to use hazelnut trees in your yard

With its wavy-margined, heart-shaped leaves turning yellow, orange and burgundy in fall; spring show of catkins; and frilly nut cases, the American native hazelnut suits wildlife-friendly gardens and makes an excellent hedging plant.

If you have the space, plant a nuttery with several hazels set at least 12ft (3.6m) apart and pruned for shapeliness. The dappled shade cast by their leaves will suit a ground cover of woodland plants and spring bulbs. 

The European hazel is similarly useful in UK gardens, where they don’t suffer from major pests or diseases. Many plots now have a corner that has been rewilded, where a regularly coppiced hazel will yield plenty of plant supports. In our large garden, we have a small ‘wilderness’ where trees have been left to regenerate naturally and shade out brambles. This quiet, undisturbed area is a refuge for wildlife and hazels grow from nuts cached by gray squirrels – I often think they plant them on purpose to propagate one of their favorite foods.

When, where and how to plant a hazelnut tree

Plant new hazelnut trees in the fall when the soil is moist but neither wet nor frozen. They grow well on a wide variety of soil types, as long as they are not waterlogged. Avoid, if you can, rich soils – these tend to favor leafy growth over nut production. 

Although they can grow in sun, light shade with a few hours of direct sun is a better choice in drier areas where prolonged droughts are common.

Before starting, make sure the roots are thoroughly moistened. If they're dry, soak them in a bucket of water. Plants in pots should have their roots teased out of the pot shape. 

Dig a square hole as deep as the rootball and twice as wide, and place the plant in carefully so it's exactly the same depth as it was in the nursery bed or pot. Then, fill in, firming as you go. Water in well and during droughts until it's established.  

Space trees at least 12-20ft apart (3.6-6m) so they have room to develop.

Pruning and training hazelnuts

Leaving hazels to develop a multi-stemmed thicket is an option, but they respond well to pruning. Most gardeners reduce the number of stems by thinning them down to around eight branches from mid-winter to early spring using loppers and a folding pruning hand saw. We like the look of this Corona model, available on Amazon.

Once your hazel is five years old, the Nature Hills Nursery website recommends regular renewal pruning by removing a third of the oldest, fattest stems right down to the ground every three to four years. 'Allow the younger thinner stems to remain,' they add. This process can encourage nut production.

Once every five to ten years or so, you can coppice the entire tree. This means taking a saw to overgrown plants while they are dormant and cutting all the stems almost to ground level – within 5-7.5cm (2-2½in) from the ground, says the RHS. Light floods into their space and new growth soon appears. Regularly coppiced plants provide good, straight stems perfect as climbing plant supports, especially for pole beans.

To grow trees on a short stem, prune the leader to 18-36in (45-90cm) in the winter after planting. During summer, remove unwanted lower laterals and shorten the rest by a third. In winter, shorten long stems by half and remove suckers, holding in mind the intended shape of an open-centered plant with around five well-placed leaders. During the first couple of years, cut leading shoots by half to develop a dense framework.

How to make more hazelnut trees

Everyone loves free plants, and it's quite possible to make more hazelnuts from an existing shrub or tree.

The simplest and cheapest method of introducing hazelnuts to your plot is by sowing seeds, preferably from local trees acclimatized to their surroundings. Plant 1in (2.5cm) deep into pots of good seed compost (there is plenty available on Amazon) in fall and place in a cold, airy and covered place where they will not get too wet. Seedlings should appear in spring. 

However, cultivars will not come true from seed and are usually propagated by layering. Plants are prepared by cutting them down to promote lots of new stems, but if there are a number of young suckers, this may not be necessary. Heap good soil around the base of the young stems in early summer. After a year, the suckers should have rooted into this while attached to the mother tree. In fall, cut each layer below the roots and pot up or plant out. Alternatively, bend a long sucker to the ground, make a cut on the underside, and peg it down to root. 

Grafting is possible, but in the US, would require a blight-resistant rootstock. The rootstocks are also prone to suckering and these would be a different cultivar from the one grafted on top.

Common problems with hazelnut trees

Hazels are easy to grow but where deer, squirrels and rabbits are a problem, use guards or repellent sprays to protect young trees while they establish. 

To keep squirrels from taking nuts, try planting a tree in isolation (but with pollinators nearby). Train it to produce branches from a single trunk and fix the trunk with a metal collar.

In the US, filbert worms or acorn moths will overwinter as larvae in the soil. The adults lay eggs on hazelnut husks in spring and larvae enter to feed on the nuts. Increase biodiversity to encourage parasitic wasps. Pheromone traps are available to attract and trap male moths.

Microscopic bud mites can cause distortion. Look for resistant varieties.

Eastern filbert blight (Anisogramma anomala) causes wilting, dieback and raised lumps of infected tissue, known as cankers. Slightly raised football-shaped spore-bearing structures develop on branches. To avoid this, grow American hazelnuts or disease-resistant cultivars.

Can you eat hazelnuts from the tree?

Fresh green hazelnuts straight from the tree are a delicious treat. They are crunchy but moister than dried nuts and with a fresh flavor. 

It is tempting to harvest nuts early to beat the squirrels, but unripe kernels tend to wither in the shell. For the main crop, pick ripe nuts, lay them out for the husks to dry, and store them in a cool, dry, place that's free of rats.

Do you need two hazelnut trees for nuts?

Hazelnuts are monoecious, meaning they have both male flowers (in catkins) and female flowers – though not always simultaneously. 

The American hazelnut can self-pollinate but the European is unreliable in this respect and cross-pollination improves yield. When choosing and planting specific cultivars for their nuts, always check with nurseries that they are able to pollinate each other. 

How long does a hazel tree take to grow?

Hazel trees are usually ready to bear nuts after three to five years, depending on whether you start with a seed or a well-grown sapling and how much formative pruning is carried out. 

They take six to seven years to yield well. After coppicing, nut production usually resumes in three years.

Deciding what to plant in December depends very much on whether you are looking for an instant display or playing the ‘long game’, planning and planting for the year (or years) to come.

We also have to bear in mind that it’s the Christmas month and whether you celebrate or not, garden centers will be closed for some of the time and the postal services will be seriously overloaded so buying plants and equipment may not be as easy for a while.

However, as long as the soil isn’t waterlogged or frosted there are plenty of things to plant outside to add color and scent to the fall and winter for future years.

In most places the days are colder and dark, so it’s also important to give yourselves something to look forward to when considering what to plant when. So this month I’ll be planting hardy annuals and perennials for next year’s summer garden.

If you plan to plant trees and shrubs, make sure that whatever you buy suits your soil and the spot you wish to plant it, or is suitable for a container if that's what you are planning. Add some bone meal to the planting hole or container compost, as this will break down through winter and feed the roots next spring.

And if you are getting ahead with seed sowing like I am, remember that hardy annual seeds can be germinated in a greenhouse or cold frame, while more tender varieties such as some bedding plants need more warmth. A temperate windowsill with good light (though out of direct sunlight) or heated propagator are ideal at this time of year.

Follow our list of what to plant in December for vibrant color

The weather might be getting colder by the day, but there are still plenty of options for what to plant in December to ensure your garden has lots of color and interest over the coming months. 

1. Osmanthus

This fall I have been transfixed by the most delicious scent wafting from a neighbour’s garden every time I walk past. It is sweet but not sickly and overpowering, like honeysuckle but with a spicier edge. I asked and discovered that the perfume was coming from an Osmanthus, a handsome and hardy evergreen shrub that is hardy in most soils as long as it doesn’t get waterlogged and it gets plenty of sun.

Osmanthus are grown either for their foliage, of which O.heterophyllus is a key example and comes with a range of holly-like leaves in a range of colors. For scent you want Osmanthus x burkwoodii or Osmanthus x delayvi, which produce clusters of scented white flowers in fall.

This is a good time of year to plant, especially if you can buy bare root plants, but do be aware that a young Osmanthus takes time to reach maturity so you may need to be patient for a few seasons before you can breathe your fill of that glorious perfume.

Top tip: Although Osmanthus make excellent barrier-forming shrubs, variegated varieties are more compact and can be grown in containers.

2. Evergreen grass

One of the main aims of gardening is to have something to catch the eye and add interest all year round. It’s easy between spring and fall, but this stage of winter can pose a problem, falling as it does between the last of the brilliant fall berries and first snowdrops and hellebores.

A failsafe way of boosting your winter landscaping ideas is to dot evergreen types of ornamental grass around your borders or in patio planters. They give definition, many change color through the seasons and they make a wonderful sound - a susurration – when the wind plays through their leaves.

Some of my favorites are Pheasant’s tail grass (Anemanthele) that starts green and then moves through yellow to fiery orange and red, saving its most spectacular shades for winter.

The edge, or Carex, family are broad-bladed and evergreen and ideal for pots as well as the border, and their colours range from green to variegated and bronze.

Blue fescue (Festuca glauca) forms low mounds of blue-green fronds and hair grass (Deschampsia) is another compact variety that produces elegant wafty stems of airy seedheads.

For dramatic impact and something to offset brilliant greens and flowers, try growing black-leaved Ophiopogon planiscapus, which looks especially good in gravel gardens.

Top tip: Clumps of ornamental grasses can become too large and unproductive, so divide them every few years.

3. Snapdragons

It’s never too early to start planning ahead and coming up with summer garden ideas for next year. Start sowing perennials now, germinating them either on a warm, light windowsill or under growing lamps.

Making sure the germination area is bright enough is vitally important during the winter when light levels are low and days are short as seedlings can grow pale and spindly if they don’t get enough illumination. Then they collapse or grow into weak plants that don’t thrive and are more prone to attacks by pests and disease.

I am sowing some snapdragons, also known as antirrhinums. These summer garden stalwarts are perfect for cottage garden borders and containers, and are easy going and simple to grow. They come in a range of colors, from yellows and apricots to all shades of pink and even two-toned, and taller varieties are one of the best flowers for cutting, with a vase life of up to a week.

We used to grow them as annuals but here in southern Britain I’ve managed to keep some going through winter, and this year ours kept flowering until well into November. In colder regions you should be able to pot up plants in the fall and overwinter them somewhere frost-free and well-lit.

Top tip: If you are sowing seeds from an old, opened packet, scatter a few onto damp kitchen paper and place them somewhere light and warm for a few days. If they start to sprout, the seeds are viable and good to sow.

4. Tulips

Like all spring-flowering bulbs including daffodils, crocuses and alliums, tulips are planted in the fall. But, as you'll know if you've already seen our guide on how to plant tulips, they go in the ground later – making them perfect for planting in December. 

This is because they are vulnerable to tulip fire, a fungal disease that distorts leaves and petals and causes the bulb to rot. The later you can plant all types of tulip, the colder the soil and the less chance there is that the bulbs will fall foul of the disease.

Plant your tulips in a sunny spot, in soil that is free-draining and has been enriched with compost or well-rotted manure. Place the bulbs at three times their own depth and a bulb's width apart, using the same placement if planting in containers.

Top tip: Plant dwarf varieties in your lawn or under trees with snowdrops and crocuses for a stunning spring display.

5. Hardy annuals

Nigella (or love-in-a-mist), cornflower, field poppies, marigolds and sweet peas are just some of the hardy annuals guaranteed to bring color and joy to your summer flower bed ideas. There are two ways of starting next year's annuals, and both methods have their pros and cons.

You can sow indoors and bring on the seedlings under cover, starting them in trays and then pricking them out and potting them on when they are large enough. You may get a healthy crop of seedlings, but it can be quite labor-intensive as they need constant monitoring, light and warmth and, of course, space when you start moving them on into their own pots.

You also have to make sure they are adequately ventilated, as a still, warm environment is a perfect breeding ground for fungal diseases, particularly damping off, which can kill off an entire tray of seedlings in one fell swoop.

When sowing inside, always use new or thoroughly washed seed trays, fresh seed compost, and fresh tap water. This will all help reduce the risk of seeds falling prey to fungal diseases.

The alternative way to grow flowers from seed is to sow them where you want them to grow, in soil that has been raked and weeded. This may seem less of a hassle, but seeds are at risk of rotting in the cold, wet soil, are vulnerable to being eaten by hungry rodents, and may be scattered by cats using the area as a litter tray.

Top tip: Don’t worry if you have sown seeds too close together, you can thin out the seedlings when they have grown large enough to handle.

6. Winter scented shrubs

Summer doesn't have the monopoly on color and scent – in the cooler months there are plenty of options when it comes to the best winter flowering shrubs, and some are sweetly fragranced, too. Daphne odora, sweet box (Sarcococca confusa), witch hazels and wintersweet (Chimonanthus praecox) are all worthy of a spot in your garden.

If you have a small space and still want shrubs, plant them in large pots and situate them next to your front door or close to seating areas, where you can make the most of their beautiful flowers and sweet scent.

Top tip: Growing in pots will limit the size of the plant, and do remember to feed them regularly. Each spring, remove the top inch or so of compost and replace it with fresh.

7. Hardy cyclamen

Nothing says 'winter color' like the jewel-like tones of cyclamen. Whether you plant them as part of your winter and spring bedding display, or dot them in shaded areas of the garden where they gleam out of the dark, they are a truly seasonal delight.

Cyclamen coum and Cyclamen hederifolium are tuberous perennials, with sweet heart-shaped leaves and dainty flowers in shades of pink and white.

They like fertile, free-draining soil and should be planted at the same depth as the pots they have been grown in. Those used as plants for winter hanging baskets or pots as part of a bedding display can also be moved into the soil when the containers are needed for something else.

Top tip: When cyclamen come to reproduce, their circular seed pods appear on coiled stems that slowly unravel as they mature, gradually lowering the seeds to the ground for germination.

8. Blossom trees

December is a good time for planting bare root trees, which are widely available now, so why not usher some spring beauty into your garden by choosing a blossom tree or two?

Apples, pears and plums are some of the best flowering trees, but ornamental weeping cherries are truly stunning. Members of the amelanchier family will also wow, with sweet white flowers, scarlet berries and beautiful red and russet leaves in the fall.

Best of all, amelanchiers do not grow large, so are perfect if you're on the lookout for the best trees for small gardens or a tree for a large container. Plant them in fertile, free-draining soil and make sure they have enough room to grow.

Support young trees with a stake and tie for support and check the soil around the roots after every heavy frost. Freezing conditions can cause the soil to crack and lift, destabilizing new plantings.

Top tip: If you are looking for a small fruit tree for a patio container, check its rootstock (the base of the plant that governs its growth on which the top growth is grafted). Dwarf varieties are M27 and M9 for apples; quince C and A for pears and quinces; 'Pixy' for plums, gages and damsons; and G5 or Gisella 5 for cherry.

9. Spring bedding plants

Spring bedding is still on sale in garden centers, supermarkets and online, if you can fight your way through the festive fripperies.

Planted in December, it will bloom in time for Christmas and then sit quietly stretching out its roots and resting its top growth until the warmer weather arrives and it starts growing and blooming again.

Pansies, violas, cyclamen, and pompom bellis daisies create delicious spots of winter color and can be wonderfully offset by grasses, mini conifers and foliage plants set alongside them. Try them as part of your winter planter ideas to brighten up a patio or deck.

Remember to keep them healthy and productive by deadheading regularly and removing foliage that is past its best.

If you have previously grown pansies and violas that have fallen foul of the fungal disease leaf spot, which causes dark, greasy spots on the leaves, plant them elsewhere for at least three years after infections.

Top tip: you can also start sowing summer bedding including antirrhinums and petunias, though they need light and warmth to succeed.

10. Berry shrubs

Brightly shining holly berries are a traditional Christmas decoration, but there are other plants with equally beautiful winter seedpods.

Adding some plants with winter berries to your plot is a wonderful way to guarantee seasonal color. All shrubs can be planted in December, so roses that bear hips in winter, Euonymus fortuneii that has sweet orange berries, Callicarpa bodinieri with its vivid purple fruits and spiny cotoneasters and pyracanthas that are covered in fiery berries in autumn and winter can all be put in the ground now. 

If you buy them bare root, you will be making a huge saving financially, though you may need to wait a year or two to get flowers and berries. Container-grown plants cost more but may give you a show this year or next.

Top tip: Only female holly bushes flower and although some are self-fertile, if you have a male plant within bee-flying distance for pollination, they will flower better. They do, though, take between 4–12 years to mature, so patience is important!

11. Hardy herbs

Every garden should have herbs and in winter it is the hardy, woody varieties that create a show.

Planted now, rosemary, sage, thyme and oregano will add color and scent through to the spring – and once they have matured there will be winter seasoning for all those glorious hearty casseroles and soups right on the doorstep.

Most woody herbs will thrive in less-than-perfect soil and are relatively free from pests, making them ideal for most gardens. They're brilliant for container gardening, too.

They can be harvested throughout the year once they are large enough and most just need a gentle trim after they have flowered to keep them in shape.

Top tip: Woody herbs grow attractively in pots and rosemary is traditionally grown close to front doors as a symbol of welcome and prosperity.

12. Perennial plants

As long as the ground isn't frozen or waterlogged, perennials are another option for what to plant in December, though if your soil is heavy clay they will do best planted on low mounds of gritty soil and compost.

They won't grow much over the winter, though they may extend their roots between now and the start of the really harsh, cold weather than usually affects the UK in the new year. But, when next spring arrives and the temperatures rise, they will soon start to put on growth and should flower in summer.

Before buying, check the plant's labels to make sure you plant it in the right place, with enough space. If it has the wrong soil and conditions, your perennial won't thrive which can be very disheartening.

Plant it at the same depth as the pot you bought it in, carefully opening up the rootball with your thumbs to help the roots spread. Water it well once it's in the ground. Mulching the root area with well-rotted compost or manure will enrich the soil, insulate the roots and keep weeds at bay.

Top tip: Check plants in milder weather as aphids and other sap-sucking pests may start to prey on fresh young leaves and shoots.

Despite good intentions, there are some common bird feeding mistakes that many gardeners are prone to making. Knowing what they are and avoiding them will give visiting birds the best possible help, which is particularly important during winter's inclement weather.

Putting out bird seed and other nutritious food is one of the easiest wildlife garden ideas to try, and can be done whatever size plot you have. This guide will help you brush up on the dos and don'ts so that you can create a haven for these feathered friends.

Avoid these bird feeding mistakes in your backyard

Get to grips with the following bird feeding mistakes to keep visiting birds happy all year round.

1. Not keeping your bird feeder clean

The RSPB tells us that not cleaning bird feeders regularly is a really important mistake that many people make. 'Feeders naturally attract multiple birds to feed at the same spot, which in turn can lead to the spread of diseases,' they explain.

They recommend cleaning all your feeders weekly, using hot, soapy water and a brush. You can also buy special cleaners online, such as the Carefree Bird House and Feeder Cleaner, available at Amazon.

Make sure the feeder is totally dry before you add any dry food into it again or the food will rot.

2. Not pest-proofing your bird feeder

It's not just birds that enjoy eating bird food. There are plenty of other creatures interested in the seeds, nuts and fruit you might have left out in your bird feeders, including mice, rats and squirrels. 

One way to keep squirrels off bird feeders, as well as other hungry pests, is to invest in pest-proof designs (try Amazon for a selection). Other techniques include hanging bird feeders in locations that are harder for rodents to access, or attaching baffles.

3. Not feeding birds during the winter

Our feathered friends need the most sustenance over winter, when temperatures drop and food is more tricky to find in the wild.

Feeding birds in winter with unsaturated fat and protein-rich foods like peanuts, sunflower seeds and fat balls will help boost their energy and maintain their fat reserves during the cold months – both highly necessary factors that allow them to make it through to spring.

On that note, you don't have to stop feeding them in spring either, as there's no clear-cut schedule for when your winter birds will choose to leave the area. 

4. Feeding birds the wrong food

Putting out the wrong food is perhaps one of the most easily-made bird feeding mistakes. The primary culprit here is using too-cheap a seed mix, as the cheap ones are predominantly made up of fillers that don't provide requisite nutrients. Named ingredients you want to avoid include wheat, rapeseed, flax and golden or red millet.

The RSPB suggests considering which birds you have in your garden already and which ones you’d like to attract, and then ensuring you are offering the food they like. 

Sunflower hearts, available on Amazon, are popular with lots of birds – they’re packed full of oils and fats and have their shells removed so birds expend less energy eating them. Mix up what you offer to attract a wider variety of birds – such as meal worms for robins and nyjer seeds for goldfinches.

You can also learn how to make bird feeders using ingredients such as pine cones, seeds and suet.

5. Not refilling your bird feeders – or leaving too much food out

If birds return to an empty feeder, it's likely they won't see it as a reliable source of food. With that in mind, try to always keep it filled with food instead of letting it run empty. 

However, it's still important to not overwhelm the birds. The RSPB says that it’s better to put out smaller amounts more frequently than fill your feeders to the brim and risk the food spoiling. 

It may take birds a while to find your food when you first put feeders out, so start with small amounts and build up as you see more birds visiting.

6. Not providing a water source for birds

Don't forget that birds need fresh water every day. Providing fresh water in a shallow container invites them to investigate your yard – they'll spot the light glinting off the water's surface. 

You can also make a bird bath in a few simple steps and double the chances of birds visiting your yard to drink and wash their feathers.

Refresh their water regularly (every two to four days), as stagnant water is a breeding ground for bacteria, and keep water out year-round. The RSPB also recommends checking that water hasn't frozen over during the cold months.

7. Putting your bird feeder in the wrong place

Learning how to attract birds to your garden is more about bird-feeder location than you might think. 

The RSPB explains that different birds will use different types of feeders. Hanging bird feeders are ideal for perch-feeding birds like tits, goldfinches, and greenfinches, while ground feeders such as robins and blackbirds prefer their food on a table or on the ground. 

Then there's the aspect of safety to bear in mind. The RSPB suggests looking for somewhere close to cover to put your bird feeders – somewhere birds can eat their seeds while feeling somewhat protected from predators.